Ss hp estimate help???

[khickenwang]

I just bought a 98 ss camaro with 115k. I know I have stock 320 horses. About how many extra horses does these mods add-short shifter, center force stage 2 clutch, 4:11 gears, and dynomax exhaust??

[ls1dreaming]

The only one of those that will add hp is the exhaust. Maybe 10 hp. The gears will add to the butt dyno though.

[WS6 > SS]

The only HP add ons you have is the exhaust. The other mods will improve your ET but not your HP. Also, Im not so sure I would count on the fact that your car has 320 HP at the wheels new let alone after 115K miles. I would guesstimate somewhere around 270-285ish. Of course that's just my opinion...anybody else care to chime in?

[35th-ANV-SS]

First off, it would depend on what kind of DYNO; Mustang or DynoJet

Mustang Dyno would be lower readings and more representative of "real life". I would say about 280-290 on a Mustang Dyno and about 300-310 on a DynoJet.

Just adding a catback exhaust with no other exhaust modifications (headers or Y-pipe) I would guess maybe 12HP.

A 4.11 gear will help you with acceleration off the line. However, if you don't have suspension modifications to help with traction as well as DRs, those lower gears will probably hurt your ET more than help (lots of spinning).

[khickenwang]

so whats the best ways and cheapest ways to add more horses?? headers? I want about 380 dynoed.

[35th-ANV-SS]

Cheap Reliable Fast

Choose 2

[35th-ANV-SS]

Full bolt-on's will get you where you want to be.

-Headers
-ORY
-Exhaust
-TB
-LS6 Intake
-Air lid
-CAI

LTs will add the most HP.

[Knight]

Lots of money and lots of parts. That's the best way. Cheap and fast is hard to do too.
Best to start saving, and then build your complete setup, ie - know exactly what you want - rpm power range, is it gonna be a 1/4 miler or dd or weekend warrior or what?

[Knight]

Plus once you start adding hp - you gotta make sure the drivetrain can handle it - the stock 10 bolt - if that's what you still have. Plus sfcs and other parts to allow the car to safely handle the added power.

[00z28bubba]

380 whp will not come unless you are cammed. do bolt ons first and then cam. you should pass the 380 mark with full bolt on and cam. but as previously mentioned the 10 bolt rear most likely wont last. clutch should be fine. and sub frame connectors(sfc) are a must. other suspension will depend if you actually want to use the power.

[konigandy6]

so whats the best ways and cheapest ways to add more horses?? headers? I want about 380 dynoed.

The only way you're going to hit the 380 rwhp mark is by doing a cam swap with all the bolt on supporting mods.

[Y2KPewterSS]

380 whp will not come unless you are cammed. do bolt ons first and then cam. you should pass the 380 mark with full bolt on and cam. but as previously mentioned the 10 bolt rear most likely wont last. clutch should be fine. and sub frame connectors(sfc) are a must. other suspension will depend if you actually want to use the power.

The only way you're going to hit the 380 rwhp mark is by doing a cam swap with all the bolt on supporting mods.

Ditto what they said.

[35th-ANV-SS]

Hmmm interesting. I'm just about stock in the form of HP adders other than LTs, ORY, lid, and an exhaust and I dyno'd 330rwhp on a Mustang Dyno which would be close to about 360rwhp on a DynoJet. From what I've read and numbers I've seen there is about a 10% difference between the two forms of Dyno machines.

And that is going through a Moser 9" rear end, which is about 6% less efficient than the 10 bolt.

So, with that said, just figuratively speaking, if I was to add 6% to my 330 I would be at 348rwhp on a Mustang Dyno, or about 382rwhp on a DynoJet.

I don't have every "bolt-on".

I understand that the above is just theoretical numbers, but it would seem possible to me. Maybe not?

[00z28bubba]

Hmmm interesting. I'm just about stock in the form of HP adders other than LTs, ORY, lid, and an exhaust and I dyno'd 330rwhp on a Mustang Dyno which would be close to about 360rwhp on a DynoJet. From what I've read and numbers I've seen there is about a 10% difference between the two forms of Dyno machines.

And that is going through a Moser 9" rear end, which is about 6% less efficient than the 10 bolt.

So, with that said, just figuratively speaking, if I was to add 6% to my 330 I would be at 348rwhp on a Mustang Dyno, or about 382rwhp on a DynoJet.

I don't have every "bolt-on".

I understand that the above is just theoretical numbers, but it would seem possible to me. Maybe not?

the only power upgrades you can really get are fast 92/92 and ud pulley and a retune. fast intake is an increase in power over the ls6 but dont expect more than 10 whp let alone 30 for fast, ud pulley, and tune. maybe if you happen to get some light wheels and extremely light drivetrain but imo that is kind of too much for me seeing as how it would really just be a number hunt. if your absolutely hell bent on the number just play with the tuning a bit to play with the numbers to squeeze every last drop of power and when you are done put it back to a driveable tune.

[SPDYGON]

LT, stock option duel/duel, 80mm BBK TB, SLP cold air intake, dyno at Vegeance got 361 at wheels with 37k miles on 01 ss

[Y2KPewterSS]

Hmmm interesting. I'm just about stock in the form of HP adders other than LTs, ORY, lid, and an exhaust and I dyno'd 330rwhp on a Mustang Dyno which would be close to about 360rwhp on a DynoJet. From what I've read and numbers I've seen there is about a 10% difference between the two forms of Dyno machines.

And that is going through a Moser 9" rear end, which is about 6% less efficient than the 10 bolt.

So, with that said, just figuratively speaking, if I was to add 6% to my 330 I would be at 348rwhp on a Mustang Dyno, or about 382rwhp on a DynoJet.

I don't have every "bolt-on".

I understand that the above is just theoretical numbers, but it would seem possible to me. Maybe not?

Most of the LS1 fbodies with your same mods and being a manual tranny that I have witnessed have dynoed 335-345 range on a dynojet. I have witnessed a lot of fbodies with the same mods dyno as well. I don't think you would dyno 360 on a dynojet with your mods, honestly, I would fall over dead if you did dyno 360 on a dynojet with your mods. I think the most you would dyno would be 345 range with your mods on a dynojet.

[Willfully Armed]

Im pushing right at the 380 mark.

Cam: Futral Motorsports FMS-F14-112-HIGHLIFT- $399
Headers: Hooker Super Comps-$350
y pipe- $140
exhaust: Borla dual Adjustable- $800
no cats, air delete, smog delete- FREE
tune- MC Racing KC- $300
intake swap- GM LS6- $400
lid and filter- K&N- $150

$2539 approx.

do it, and youll be awful close.

[SSilverSS]

The only HP add ons you have is the exhaust. The other mods will improve your ET but not your HP. Also, Im not so sure I would count on the fact that your car has 320 HP at the wheels new let alone after 115K miles. I would guesstimate somewhere around 270-285ish. Of course that's just my opinion...anybody else care to chime in?

Hate to be off topic, but are you from jax florida?

[Smittro]

Even if you had 320hp I believe that's crank hp. not axle. Subtract 15-20% for loss through drive train and then you'll have a more accurate estimate of power to the road. To hit those numbers you've posted, definetly going to have to think about some internal mods to your engine. Cam is a good place to start, but as others have stated you'll need supporting bolt-ons/mods. Nothing short of no2, blower, or turbo will yeild those numbers you're looking for. Just bolting on a few things here and there won't get it done.. The three things I've stated will also require internal engine modification imho. Then you'll also need to get into a real tune from a professional... Myself I would start by researching heavily into what it takes to make real power, then get your wallet ready for the hit.. Horse power don't come cheap, even if you're only adding 50-rwhp, you'll need @ least 15-20% more than that @ the crank to realize it on the road.. Happy modding, and good luck..