COMPLETE REDO of PCV System(pics writeup)

[demonpixel]

Unfortunately...those are old pics and the engine is already installed in the car. I've taken the intake manifold off and on too many times though and I'm just ready to start the car, so I'll be doing the LS6 pcv conversion at a later time. I do appreciate the response though!

I'm going to run a line from the driver's side rear port to the intake manifold, with a pcv valve in between. I spoke with someone who had a similar setup to my engine, including the passenger side valve cover with no rear port, and that's how he routed his. The port on the front of the passenger side valve cover will have a hose running from it to the port on the throttle body. This will at least get the car started. Maybe I'll add a catch can while I'm waiting on doing the LS6 style.

[99'CajunFirehawk157]

Demonpixel, I have those same covers I am about to put on my car so it looks likes the way you did yours is the way I will have to do mine until I pull the intake off. How does yours runs with this setup?

[Robreynolds]

I've got a question. I just bought an 02 CETA and the PCV valve is falling apart and spraying oil all over the engine and under the hood. I just ordered the whole PCV valve tube setup that I found the part # on here (12590632) from GMPARTSDIECT. My question is, is this the newer valve with the smaller, fixed orifice the you guys are saying is better. I hope this takes care of the oil leaking problem because there is an awful lot of oil coming from somewhere that leaks onto the ground. Do you think I will still need to get a catch can since I just ordered this new PCV valve assembly?

[Cutlass]

The stock PCV system with the updated PCV .100 orfice valve (GM # 12572717) works well with a stock engine. Catch can is great upgrade to the system.
Hopefully your oil leak gets better with properly operating PCV system, but if not you'll have to keep tracing it down.

[pajeff02]

Nuts! I ended up with the old part number (12590632) when I bought mine 2 weeks ago. The part number I started with had been updated so I figured it would have the smaller orifice. Live and learn.

[Cutlass]

GM # 12572717 is the PCV valve only not the hose kit

[sjsingle1]

not a clue on how to do the catch can mod.........anyone????

[Cutlass]

Unfortunately there are several different opinions on how to do it. Usually you put the can inline between the pcv valve and the intake. some use a pcv, some don't. and some vent the clean side of the pcv to the atmoshere and some don't. Try to read all the catch can/PCV threads you can find and see if you can figure out the best setup for you.
Here's one of the best explanations of PCV I've read so far:

Seems like you really have a bone to pick about the pcv system. Remember where you are getting most of your info from. There is years of posts on this topic, that means there are several posts to ignore. Sulfuric acid? ignore it, consider that theory just dirty oil. There may be small amounts of it but too little to worry.

First, you have to understand what is happening with the pcv system in general. Then what is happening in a LS1. You only want the pcv during low power or cruising around, above that air just needs to escape. There is some air flow, not much. And yes that is because of the cheap little tin valve thingy. Where this whole subject gets complicated is under high loads (wot). Remember, you have 2 lines. One, the "clean air" line is on the TB. The other is the "dirty air" going to the intake.

Here is a quick table
CRUISE POWER
-high vacuum on the dirty line, pulling air through the pcv valve.
-clean air is flowing through the clean line, replenishing the crankcase.
-The crankcase has constant air flow. Normal "Positive Crankcase Ventilation" operation.

WOT
-Most amount of blow by is occuring, pressurizing the crankcase
-little or no vacuum on dirty line from the intake. Pressure from the crankcase is flowing through the valve.
-Since little air can go through the valve, the extra pressurized "dirty" is also blowing through the 'clean air' line to the TB. This is where oil mist is blown all over the throttle blade, gumming it up.
-High HP engines also blow out the oil dipstick if the the two pcv lines cannot let all the blow by out

HIGH RPM, THROTTLE CLOSED (ENGINE BRAKING)
-highest vacuum in the intake, pulls the hardest on the pcv. Any oil mist blown into the line during WOT is sucked in.
-clean air line is now flowing clean air back into the crankcase, normal air flow direction.
-ls1's may have blue exhaust from burning the oil mist that was blown into the intake from WOT

Now, you said your engine was stock. Stock HP is fine for the stock pcv, connect everything back up to the way it was. If you are concerned about oil in the intake then add a catch can in the 'dirty' line. Nevermind the clean air line. Just clean the TB with some carb cleaner every oil change. Also, dont use a breather filter. Its going to simulate a vacuum leak to the pcm and it will run rich. Also, oil drips out of it and smokes on the header. If you start modding then yes. But tune for it. When you get to that point, research some more.

What I've done: Ran a 3/8" hose from the pcv valve to the radiator cooling fan shroud. Attached a compressor line filter with a bendable bracket. Ran hose back up to the intake. Cost: <$40. At the track, I cap off the intake and TB lines and screw on the valve cover breather. The pcv is now deleted but just for the track. Reconnect for the drive home.

[pajeff02]

GM # 12572717 is the PCV valve only not the hose kit

As I have a whole new hose assembly I did not pull the old one apart. I think it's covered with foam at the junction -- does the PCV simply pull out to remove it? I only ask this as some of the PCV tubing appears to be heat formed to the other pieces.

[Cutlass]

yes the pcv valve will pull out