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Thread: knock sensor codes
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08-31-2009, 03:38 PM #1
knock sensor codes
I've been having alot of issues with the knock sensors on my '01 Z28. At first I had code P0327 (front knock sensor malf.) wich I attributed to washing my engine and getting alot of water under the intake. I had that one and the rear one changed at the same time and sure enough both sensors were rusty and moist. This worked for about two weeks and then I had code P0332 (rear knock sensor malf.) In stead of taking it to the shop, I did it myself. Both sensor 'cups' had moisture in them and rust particles and the new sensors were starting to rust. I cleaned everything real good and replaced both sensors again AND the wiring harness. This worked for another week and low and behold now I have code P0332. I have had my car checked by several mechanics and there isn't a knock or pinging issue. I run 93 octane with Lucas UCL all the time. I'm getting frustrated with it because these codes are retarding my timing and causing other issues. Can anyone advise me what to do next?
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08-31-2009, 04:58 PM #2
- Join Date
- Apr 2008
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- Madison, WI
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- 7,006
1999 Formula WS6 M6-sold- 2001 Silverado Z71
are you using GM parts?
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08-31-2009, 05:03 PM #3
- Join Date
- Mar 2009
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- pompano beach florida
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- 33
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- 2002 Camaro Z/28 Pewter
Whered you get the sensors from.. I put advance knock sensos in and I was throwing knock sensor codes. I went with autozone and havent had an issue but oem is def best.
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08-31-2009, 05:06 PM #4
The wiring harness is GM. The sensors came from Discount auto parts. Is there a specific torque setting for them? The reason I ask is that I broke the OPS in the back and when I replaced it, I didn't tighten it enough and I had a small oil leak. I took the manifold back off and tightened it down. I guess what I'm asking is if I didn't tighten them enough could that set them off?
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08-31-2009, 05:08 PM #5
I think advance auto is the same as discount auto in Florida.
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08-31-2009, 05:17 PM #6
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08-31-2009, 05:22 PM #7
I think I'm gonna take it all back off and retorque them and see what happens. Thanks.
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08-31-2009, 05:58 PM #8
15 ft/lbs really isn't that much so unless they're completely loose I doubt that's it. I would look for the root cause of where the moisture is coming from. Are your vent pipes or vent ports in the heads leaking perhaps? Could just be bad sensors but the moisture definitely will kill them so I'd be seeing what I can do about that. One thing you can do is take some silicone and build a little levee around the sensors to keep water from getting to them.
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08-31-2009, 06:10 PM #9
That sounds like a good idea. It's embarrassing to admit, but I believe all the moisture that was under there has alot to do with my compulsive use of the local car wash. It's got a lot of pressure and I have been using it two to three times a week. I believe the water is is coming from the bottom of the windshield and entering the manifold area.
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08-31-2009, 06:13 PM #10
I forgot to ask, but where are the vent pipes on the heads and can they be seen with the manifold off? How can I check them? Thanks.
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09-01-2009, 08:44 AM #11
- Join Date
- Feb 2006
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- MD
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- 577
Next time you have everything apart seal the rubber knock sensor plugs to the valley cover with some RTV. Make sure you use new GM sensors and have the hole completely dry before doing so.
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09-01-2009, 08:46 AM #12
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09-01-2009, 03:51 PM #13
I think that was my problem. I cleaned and dried the front one well, but I had a hard time with the rear one. It had so much rust that was moist enough to form clay-like lumps. I had a hard time getting everything out and I bet when I replaced the grommet I sealed the remaining moisture in it. Looks like another manifold removal tomorrow. Not to change the subject, but while I have the manifold off, I'm considering removing the pcv lines and reworking them. Is there a consensus on the best way to do this? I already have one of the water/air separators in line right before the pcv valve enters the TB. Any suggestions?
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09-01-2009, 05:49 PM #14
you already have the LS6 pcv version so the only other option I know of is to block it off completely and put filters on everything which in and of itself is debatable amongst the people around here.
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09-01-2009, 06:22 PM #15
From what I've read here, that would be something someone would consider for racing. If the LS6 pcv system is ok, I think I'll just stick with what I've got although I am considering buying a real catch can instead of the little glass one I have. It's only been there a week and it's already turned the stone in it black from the oil mist.
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09-01-2009, 07:33 PM #16
check with mark at KYSpeed for the catch can. They had a deal on some a while back in the sponsor area.
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09-01-2009, 07:35 PM #17
Thanks.
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