I'm a Oil Junkie

[35thAnniversaryPhil]

Is the noise more present at cold engine start-up or does it do it when fully warm as well?

Have you noticed if your oil pressure has changed from when you were running the 5W-30?

Some valve-train noise at start-up is normal, but I can’t image why the switch would cause it to be noisier.

Are you positive the noise is coming from the valve train and not piston slap? Either way, I’ve only heard of 0W-30 SSO making LS1 engines quieter.

The 0W-30 is only a little less thick when cold but the same thickness when warm as the 5W-30. This is an interesting one. Let me know on the above…

CompSyn

Thanks for the quick reply CompSyn!

The noise is present at startup but becomes more prominent when the engine is warmed up.

The oil pressure is a little less at startup with the SS0w30 but becomes the same as the 5w30 when the engine is warmed up.

The engine was always noisier at startup but that as you said, that is considered normal.

I looked and researched further into the "Piston Slap" noise and concluded that it could not be that. It is definitely valve-train noise. It is the classic ticking sounds of the valve-train. I also forgot to mention that I changed my oil filter to the Amsoil one if that makes any difference.

Hope the information I gave you will help you diagnose the problem because changing the oil from Amsoil 5w30 to SS0w30 and the oil filter from Fram to Amsoil is the only thing I have done since the noise appeared. A noise which appeared directly after I did those two things.

Thank you

[Dr.Crash]

Thanks for the quick reply CompSyn!

The noise is present at startup but becomes more prominent when the engine is warmed up.

The oil pressure is a little less at startup with the SS0w30 but becomes the same as the 5w30 when the engine is warmed up.

The engine was always noisier at startup but that as you said, that is considered normal.

I looked and researched further into the "Piston Slap" noise and concluded that it could not be that. It is definitely valve-train noise. It is the classic ticking sounds of the valve-train. I also forgot to mention that I changed my oil filter to the Amsoil one if that makes any difference.

Hope the information I gave you will help you diagnose the problem because changing the oil from Amsoil 5w30 to SS0w30 and the oil filter from Fram to Amsoil is the only thing I have done since the noise appeared. A noise which appeared directly after I did those two things.

Thank you

It might have just been perfect timing. Could be that even if you hadnt changed the oil and filter it would have apeared. could be

[CompSyn]

Thanks for the quick reply CompSyn!

The noise is present at startup but becomes more prominent when the engine is warmed up.

The oil pressure is a little less at startup with the SS0w30 but becomes the same as the 5w30 when the engine is warmed up.

The engine was always noisier at startup but that as you said, that is considered normal.

I looked and researched further into the "Piston Slap" noise and concluded that it could not be that. It is definitely valve-train noise. It is the classic ticking sounds of the valve-train. I also forgot to mention that I changed my oil filter to the Amsoil one if that makes any difference.

Hope the information I gave you will help you diagnose the problem because changing the oil from Amsoil 5w30 to SS0w30 and the oil filter from Fram to Amsoil is the only thing I have done since the noise appeared. A noise which appeared directly after I did those two things.

Thank you

After reading your description, I’m thinking this is an odd coincidence that a valve train noise would appear right at the time of an oil and filter change.

For example, the SSO 0W-30 and ASL 5W-30 both have the same viscosity when warmed up. As stated you have the same oil pressure when the engine is warmed up with both oils. Yet the noise gets worse when the engine is warmed up.

With this information, I can’t qualify that this noise is an oil related issue but rather mechanical. I’d have the valve train inspected for any excessive wear areas and potential failures that may be looming.

Although, when doing an oil and filter change, there is a split second of dry start-up before the oiling system is fully primed. Perhaps this condition was enough to push an already warn valve train component out of tolerance?

How many miles are on the car?

Rest assured. If this is indeed an oil related issue which I highly doubt, Amsoil, Inc., will warranty it.

Keep me posted and let me know the moment you find anything else out. I’m here to help.

CompSyn

[blackcar]

I also forgot to mention that I changed my oil filter to the Amsoil one if that makes any difference.

Hope the information I gave you will help you diagnose the problem because changing the oil from Amsoil 5w30 to SS0w30 and the oil filter from Fram to Amsoil is the only thing I have done since the noise appeared. A noise which appeared directly after I did those two things.

Thank you

Which Amsoil filter did you use? Could it be that the Amsoil filter holds more oil than the Fram? If you put the same amount in as normal you could be just low enough to get more noise? Just throwing some thoughts out there.

[GatorSS]

Phil, did you recently do some real high RPM revving?

[Dr.Crash]

Thanks for the quick reply CompSyn!

The noise is present at startup but becomes more prominent when the engine is warmed up.

The oil pressure is a little less at startup with the SS0w30 but becomes the same as the 5w30 when the engine is warmed up.

The engine was always noisier at startup but that as you said, that is considered normal.

I looked and researched further into the "Piston Slap" noise and concluded that it could not be that. It is definitely valve-train noise. It is the classic ticking sounds of the valve-train. I also forgot to mention that I changed my oil filter to the Amsoil one if that makes any difference.

Hope the information I gave you will help you diagnose the problem because changing the oil from Amsoil 5w30 to SS0w30 and the oil filter from Fram to Amsoil is the only thing I have done since the noise appeared. A noise which appeared directly after I did those two things.

Thank you

Also, what MODs do you have done to your car?

[TryMe]

I have a trams am with a decently build 408 in it and I only use it as a weekend and track car. I was running Mobil 1 but I changed to Royal purple now my car seems to be leaking out the rear main, does the oil have anything to do with it? And I was told I should run just strait 30 wieght oil, becouse I do not drive in the cold weather, Open to any oil recomendations, sounds like Royal purple is not as good as I was told.

[Dr.Crash]

I have a trams am with a decently build 408 in it and I only use it as a weekend and track car. I was running Mobil 1 but I changed to Royal purple now my car seems to be leaking out the rear main, does the oil have anything to do with it? And I was told I should run just strait 30 wieght oil, becouse I do not drive in the cold weather, Open to any oil recomendations, sounds like Royal purple is not as good as I was told.

Thats would be correct.

[35thAnniversaryPhil]

After reading your description, I’m thinking this is an odd coincidence that a valve train noise would appear right at the time of an oil and filter change.

For example, the SSO 0W-30 and ASL 5W-30 both have the same viscosity when warmed up. As stated you have the same oil pressure when the engine is warmed up with both oils. Yet the noise gets worse when the engine is warmed up.

With this information, I can’t qualify that this noise is an oil related issue but rather mechanical. I’d have the valve train inspected for any excessive wear areas and potential failures that may be looming.

Although, when doing an oil and filter change, there is a split second of dry start-up before the oiling system is fully primed. Perhaps this condition was enough to push an already warn valve train component out of tolerance?

How many miles are on the car?

Rest assured. If this is indeed an oil related issue which I highly doubt, Amsoil, Inc., will warranty it.

Keep me posted and let me know the moment you find anything else out. I’m here to help.

CompSyn

Again, thanks for the quick reply CompSyn!

I too agree that it is a weird coincidence that the valve-train noise I am experiencing appeared after my oil change.

I understand that both SSO 0W-30 and ASL 5W-30 have the same viscosity of 30 when warmed up and this is proven due to my oil pressure being the same when my engine is a operating temperature.

It is an interesting possibility that the split second of dry time after an oil change was responsible for this newly developed noise issue.

An inspection of my valve-train components for any excessive wear like you said is a possible avenue I am willing to take.

The car is a 2002 with a little under 11,000 miles on it which leads me to believe that it is not a mechanical related issue but a oil related one.

I took a video of the car running so you could hear exactly what I mean.

I appreciate and thank you for your input. Tell me what all you guys think, thanks

[35thAnniversaryPhil]

Phil, did you recently do some real high RPM revving?

Yes I can remember doing some a while back, never over redline though. My rev limiter is still stock so i guess the limit is 6000RPM. Why do you think that it would be a problem GatorSS?

[35thAnniversaryPhil]

Also, what MODs do you have done to your car?

In terms of engine and drive-train performance I have done the following:

Fast Toys Ram Air Kit
High flow air filter (AMSOIL aE air filter - Product code=EAA83)
SLP air lid
SLP smooth coupler
Ported and polished throttle body
American Racing 1 7/8" primaries long tube headers with high flow collector (3"out)
American Racing catted Y-pipe (3"in & 3out)
3" electric cutouts
GMMG chambered exhaust system

MSD Super Conductor spark plug wires
NGK Iridium IX spark plugs
Professional tune from PCMforless.com
Fan Control Switch
160 degree thermostat

Short throw shifter stick
Billet steel flywheel
Carbon fiber driveshaft
Auburn high torque rear differential
GM/Motive gears (3.73)
Cast Aluminium Cooling Cover

Engine oil (AMSOIL SS 0W30)
Engine oil filter (AMSOIL aE oil filter - Product code=EAO32)
Manual transmission oil (AMSOIL Torque Drive)
Rear axle gear lube (AMSOIL 75W90)
Power steering fluid (AMSOIL ATF)
Radiator coolant additive (Redline Water Wetter)

[Dr.Crash]

header leak?

[snakyjake]

Could pour the Amsoil out of the engine and back into oil containers, then put another oil back into the engine. Check for differences. Then everyone would know if it is Amsoil or not.

Keep the Amsoil in the oil containers to reuse later, so there's no money loss.

I can't imagine that any high quality oil can mess things up that bad in such a short time. I'm a believer that synthetic oils only outdo dino oil at the extreme end of the spectrum, and idling at warmup temperature isn't extreme.

Jake

[psycho_puppies]

I've only had my TA a few weeks but the first thing I did was change the oil. I put in Castrol GTX 5-30 with a fram filter. From reading these threads it looks like the fram filter was a bad idea, what about the Castrol GTX?
Thanks.

[fritzah]

By no means am I attempting to hijack this thread but since it has been so informative and it is oil related I figured I would ask. The owners manual recommends 75W/140 plus GM's LSD additive. However this has been superseded by a GM 75W/90 with the additive included in the oil. This reduction in weight has me slightly concerned. Any recommendations would be appreciated. I had read about the Torco but I am not to familiar with the brand and would prefer to use Amsoil, but not sure if I would need a FM with their oil. Thanks

[CompSyn]

35thAnniversaryPhil,

My apologies for the slow reply as I was out of the country for the last two weeks with spotty Internet connection.

After seeing your list of aftermarket components and watching/listening to your video, my suspicion goes directly to the exhaust system especially since you have headers. Headers are synonymous for developing exhaust leaks and exhaust leaks sound like “ticking”.

Inspect yourself or have a professional exhaust shop inspect your entire exhaust system. I think some shops offer free inspections??? Look for black soot trails around gasket mating surfaces, header welds and cut-out units.

I really don’t think you have anything mechanically wrong. Your tachometer in the video appears to be nice and smooth. If you had a serious valve-train issue, I wouldn’t expect to see such a smooth engine idle.

Start with a full exhaust system inspection, and go from there.

CompSyn

[CompSyn]

By no means am I attempting to hijack this thread but since it has been so informative and it is oil related I figured I would ask. The owners manual recommends 75W/140 plus GM's LSD additive. However this has been superseded by a GM 75W/90 with the additive included in the oil. This reduction in weight has me slightly concerned. Any recommendations would be appreciated. I had read about the Torco but I am not to familiar with the brand and would prefer to use Amsoil, but not sure if I would need a FM with their oil. Thanks

Fritzah,

I can’t imagine why GM would make the recommendation of scaling back gear lube viscosities from 75W-140 to 75W-90 unless they are doing so for fuel economy reasons? This recommendation would be contrary to the Society of Automotive Engineers, Inc. with respect to the 2005 SAE J306.

Go with Amsoil SEVERE GEAR® Synthetic Extreme Pressure (EP) Lubricant 75W-140 (SVO). It already has the friction modifier (FM) blended in so you shouldn’t need to add extra FM. But some like to purchase some Amsoil Slip Lock™ Differential Additive (ADA) just in case. Just know that Sarge here in the forum uses the Amsoil 75W-140 in his 10.90 second 2005 GTO without needing to add extra FMs.

On a side note, see how Amsoil Severe Gear compares to Torco gear lube in THIS September 2007 gear lube study.

Let me know if I can answer any other questions.

CompSyn

[Dr.Crash]

what ever happend with the oil shoot out? has is started?

[Z28er]

I have two questions from posts I have read on other sites (and based on a relative of mine who has been a mechanic and racing cars for over 30 years!):

1. Does PP, or any other P oil, have Paraffin (wax) in it anymore?

2. Why are people having to add oil like crazy when switching over to PP...a quart every 1500-2000 miles? Someone called it "seating?"

Thanks,

Rich

P.S. I want to be a believer, and switch from Mobil One, but I also have 101k miles with zero issues running it. Just switched to 10w30 a few changes ago.

Also, I did take your advice and have been running the 2-cycle by Valvoline. This stuff is amazing! Car runs great, and my check engine light went off immed!! I had a bad passg CAT supposedly (P0430) for years, and I have to pass smog. It's gone, even after an OBD II reset, the light has never come back on after running 2-cycle!!!!

THANKS A BUNCH FOR ALL YOUR HELP!!!

[Ricardo]

hi guys...

Again, thanks for the quick reply CompSyn!

I too agree that it is a weird coincidence that the valve-train noise I am experiencing appeared after my oil change.

I understand that both SSO 0W-30 and ASL 5W-30 have the same viscosity of 30 when warmed up and this is proven due to my oil pressure being the same when my engine is a operating temperature.

It is an interesting possibility that the split second of dry time after an oil change was responsible for this newly developed noise issue.

An inspection of my valve-train components for any excessive wear like you said is a possible avenue I am willing to take.

The car is a 2002 with a little under 11,000 miles on it which leads me to believe that it is not a mechanical related issue but a oil related one.

I took a video of the car running so you could hear exactly what I mean.

I appreciate and thank you for your input. Tell me what all you guys think, thanks

In terms of engine and drive-train performance I have done the following:

Fast Toys Ram Air Kit
High flow air filter (AMSOIL aE air filter - Product code=EAA83)
SLP air lid
SLP smooth coupler
Ported and polished throttle body
American Racing 1 7/8" primaries long tube headers with high flow collector (3"out)
American Racing catted Y-pipe (3"in & 3out)
3" electric cutouts
GMMG chambered exhaust system

MSD Super Conductor spark plug wires
NGK Iridium IX spark plugs
Professional tune from PCMforless.com
Fan Control Switch
160 degree thermostat

Short throw shifter stick
Billet steel flywheel
Carbon fiber driveshaft
Auburn high torque rear differential
GM/Motive gears (3.73)
Cast Aluminium Cooling Cover

Engine oil (AMSOIL SS 0W30)
Engine oil filter (AMSOIL aE oil filter - Product code=EAO32)
Manual transmission oil (AMSOIL Torque Drive)
Rear axle gear lube (AMSOIL 75W90)
Power steering fluid (AMSOIL ATF)
Radiator coolant additive (Redline Water Wetter)

3 things came up... but it depends on how hard you drive...

assuming that you are mild mild sporty driving and had the engine overhauled recently (correct me if i am wrong)

1.
10k miles??? = must have lower quality break-in oi?
= must do a proper brake in with.... a low quality (woo ) Mobil 1 API SM oil...
and
ride normaly without redling during another 10 k

2.
check belt tesion = pulleys might be whining with too much tension
= factory spec mighy not aply if engine was not new = must loosen them a little bit

3. the valve lash might be too thight

4. horst - main/rod bearings are too tight


i dont hear ticks and clicks in the video you posted.. so
the "grindings" looks like coming from one of those above

anyway...
if you want to tweak oils... to me GC is the kind of oil that silences those noises. = Edge 0w30