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Thread: 9 inch, posi or locker
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11-13-2008, 04:48 AM #21Awaiting Activation
- Join Date
- Oct 2007
- Location
- NC
- Posts
- 635
SOM- 1998 T.A.
As far as handling goes it works like this from best to worst.
Torsen best but only available in 10 bolt.
Limited slip/posi
Spool
Strength is in inverse order.
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03-25-2009, 09:48 PM #22
sorry to revive a dead thread but im curious about the ABS stuff. Im looking at a used 9" that doesnt have ABS where as my car has the 4 channel stock. What needs to be done to get the ABS off my car? The light doesnt bother me, ill just pull the bulb. Probably noobish here but can I just not hook the ABS up? Or does that cause big problems? I dont need ABS and dont plan on using it. Im just trying to figure out how to unhook the thing.
Im taking my car here in, in a couple weeks to have it tuned for the cam, could I just have the tuner remove the ABS on the rear and then i can drive without it for a while until I put in my 9"?
thanks,
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03-27-2009, 02:57 PM #23Sold: LS1 '85 El Camino
- Join Date
- Dec 2005
- Location
- Laurel, Maryland
- Posts
- 4,975
2000 Grand Prix GTP- 2000 Trans Am WS6 M6
When I blew my stocker a year ago and put a used 10-bolt in, it did not have ABS. I just disconnected the wires at the body and just let it be. Also, when driving without ABS, just be careful about slamming on the brakes...it took me a few weeks and a few fishtails on the highway, to get used to it.
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03-28-2009, 04:32 PM #24
Locker hands down for that much power
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03-28-2009, 04:35 PM #25
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03-28-2009, 04:51 PM #26
You need to pull the ABS unit out of the car or you will not have the proper brake proportioning. The ABS controls this.
I eliminated my ABS with an SJM Manufacturing ABS Delete Kit.
http://www.sjmmanufacturing.com/cam_brk_ls1.html
The kit comes with a Wilwood Proportioning valve and pre-bent lines. You will need to cut the lines and connect them into a T fitting.
Call them up and ask to speak to Steve. He know his stuff! He will also tell you the easy way to shut off the ABS INOP, BRAKE, and TCS lights without breaking bulbs or rigging.
After you have the kit installed, you will need to take the car out and adjust the valve so that the rear wheels no longer lock up before the fronts.
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03-29-2009, 10:56 AM #27
hmmmmm I have a12 bolt and have the LOW TRAC lights come on often. Also one time the BRAKE and ABS INOP came on. I cant figure it out. There is a thread on Tech 8-9 pages long about this exact problem and no one has it figured out. Would buying this delete kit be a "fix" to this? ABS isnt a huge deal to me, I would rather not have it and not have these problems. It feels like my brakes are spungey when LOW TRAC light comes on. Almost like I have air in my lines. But I dont.
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03-29-2009, 11:02 AM #28
Yes, eliminating the ABS will rid you of your problems. You either have no brake proportioning or you have a faulty module.
After you delete it, you will need to do a few easy steps to get rid of the lights. I can tell you which ones and how to do it.
Deleting the ABS actually frees up the cluttered engine bay and you drop about 16lbs. off of the nose!
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03-29-2009, 11:18 AM #29
With my Iron block, I need all the help I can get.
All my problems started after I bottomed out hardcore in a shitty Michigan parking lot. How much did the final tally run you? HPtuners help with getting rid of lights? How hard was the install? PITA?? Hows driving with zero ABS anyway? I do drive alot dyring summers on streets. 12,000 miles or more.
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03-29-2009, 11:24 AM #30
Well, Im not popular as far as being a Ford guy (Ive got a 1965 F-100). But why not buy a Detroit locker and a Posi? Thats the way I roll. Know your going to the track? it only takes about 30 to 45 min to change out the chunk. Just my opinion, thats the way I do it. By the way, Ive never had a problem with a limited slip, and Im pushing a big ole lead sled around.
Just a thought
Edit: dang I didnt even notice the date on this threadLast edited by Triple H Coating; 03-29-2009 at 11:27 AM.
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03-29-2009, 11:29 AM #31
I drive my car year round, including light snow and heavy rain.
HPtuners will not get rid of the lights. You will need to pull some fuses and splice some wires and ground them out.
The kit cost me around $140 and is pretty easy to install. You will need to make some double flares (PRACTICE ON SPARE PARTS) and be creative to insure that it looks nice. I got a kit without the line lock since I do not really car for one right now.
How does it stop? Well, it will rip the eyeballs outta your head and I have not even begun to really adjust the regulator!
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03-29-2009, 11:31 AM #32
Iill have to check into this. I havent done a double flare is probably 5 years. If I was going to do this, it would probably be a good time to do a line lock as well right? I swear, the money never stops pouring out.
But thanks for the info, Ill probably be hitting you up for the other info.
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03-29-2009, 12:34 PM #33
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03-29-2009, 12:47 PM #34
Some ditch the braided line. I chose to keep em'. I plan on cleaning it up an bit but for now I am tire of working on my brakes!

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03-29-2009, 02:55 PM #35
hmmmm, wow. SO its just deleteing the block, and adding those T's and that regulator? Did you just do this recently?
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03-29-2009, 02:57 PM #36
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03-29-2009, 05:04 PM #37
Hours to complete roughly? Sounds like making the lines would consume most of the time.
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03-29-2009, 05:13 PM #38
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03-29-2009, 05:15 PM #39
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03-31-2009, 11:52 AM #40
thanks for the info guys. lookin into the one with the line lock, always wanted that haha. pray for my 10 bolt until i get that 9" in!
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