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Thread: About the transmission
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12-27-2008, 12:55 PM #1
About the transmission
now i'm 85% sure it's the shift solenoid and not the trans itself. reason is, when i got the car on the road yesterday it would go into all gears if i shifted manually but in full auto it would slip in every gear but first. so today i'm going down the road (speed limit 65) at 40 mph because it wont shift out of second gear without slipping to the point where i'm de-accelerating. so i figured i'd try something. i turned the ignition off (in neutral at 40mph) and started it right back up, dropped it in gear and it started shifting fine. i was doing 70 in overdrive after that. the solenoid cost $45 ruffly. that's ALOT better than $450 to $700 for a tranny rebuild/replace.
Fingers are crossed.
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12-30-2008, 09:01 AM #2
Does anyone have any experience with this? I've now done the turn off turn back on in neutral method about a dozen times and it works every time.
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12-30-2008, 11:53 AM #3
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always dirty- 2013 Ram 2014 Caddy ATS
Not to sure if that will fix the problem but I would not drive that much. With the slipping you are putting more heat and wear on the clutches. When they wear out the trans is toast. I would think a tranny shop would be able to do a road test with a scanner and see what is happening.
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12-30-2008, 02:23 PM #4
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12-30-2008, 02:38 PM #5
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black- 2002 firehawk 94 Z28
mine shifts fine in every gear unless you get over 4grand then it slips bad.
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01-01-2009, 05:10 PM #6
im ordering the kit with all the solenoids. ill report back on outcome.
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01-05-2009, 10:29 AM #7
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Black / Stryker Blue- 2K WS.6/ 2K9 G8GT
Similar troubles....
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01-13-2009, 10:49 PM #8
For around 150 bucks you can replace all the electronics in the trans. Usually if it is a true slip in the trans it will throw a slip code and if the niods are not functioning it will also throw a code. A and B niods work as follows P< N< R<1st A ON, B ON. 2nd A off B ON. 3rd A OFF B OFF. 4th A ON B OFF. There are cheap ways to test this. You can probe the A & B niod wires off the back of the computer and run 3 wires into the car. Hook one up to A, one up to B, and a ground. Use a multimeter to check voltage. in P,N,R, & 1st gear there should be only about 4 volts or less. If you see 12 or 13 volts they are not working. When they are on you should see less voltage when they are off you should see more voltage. If you realy want to get crazy you can hook up leds and it will show you both at the same time. Unfortunatly every year had some differances in witch way the voltage flowed so the leds may light up backward. I did the leds and it helps show you when the computer has comanded a shift. You will need a chiltons to tell you what wires are what on your year. Not all malfunctions will throw a code as I have learned over the last 2 months and sometimes you have to get back to basics to solve basic problems
Last edited by JaycenK; 01-13-2009 at 10:51 PM.
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03-04-2009, 08:15 PM #9
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Black- 1998 Chevrolet Camaro SS
I'm having a similar problem. At like 50-60mph on the freeway my trans slips when shifting into gear. Well technically it will shift back and forth if you keep it steady at that mph. When I come to a complete stop sometimes it feels like it wants to stall out. Any suggestions on what it could be?
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03-04-2009, 09:35 PM #10
When tranies go bad you will get the stalling problem but you should really have the car scanned for TRANS CODES and engine codes. Make sure to ask if they can actually scan for Trans codes cuz most scanners cant. If the Trans is slipping or if there is a problem it will throw a code and trans codes don't always trigger a service engine light. In fact there are only 2 that I know of that trigger a S.E.L. Sometimes other things outside of the trans can actually cause the trans to slip. Thats why you need to get it scanned.
Just for shits and gigles you do have and Automatic. Right?Last edited by JaycenK; 03-04-2009 at 09:38 PM.
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03-05-2009, 03:03 AM #11
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Black- 1998 Chevrolet Camaro SS
Yeah it is an A4. At first I thought it could just be the fluid, and filter because before this winter hit I checked the fluid, and even though it was full it was starting to get dirty. I doubt the previous owner changed the filter too. Yet what worries me is when I had the car for the first year I had an SLP MAF on the damn thing. It threw a bunch of codes, and I had to clear them after I put the stock one back on like 4-5 months ago. I thought that the MAF sensor would mess up the shift timing or something too? Yeah I agree...someway somehow I need to get it scanned again. What places have this scanner? Or what scanner works?
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