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Thread: Clutch?
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01-25-2009, 03:30 PM #1
- Join Date
- Oct 2008
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- pompano florida
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- 83
1968 Cutlass 350 auto red- 2000 z-28 6 spd. White
Clutch?
I;m rebuilding my tranny this week and I was planning on doing the clutch while I got it out cause it has 100k on it but anyways, all I have is lid, exhaust, LTs, MAF, and throttle body and I wasn't planning on doing much more to it. I occasionally do a 0-100 and I do a lot of around town driving. Should I go with a stock clutch or maybe step it up? I don't want anything much heavier, but a little heavier is ok. Thanks
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01-25-2009, 04:28 PM #2
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- Oct 2008
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- Coral Springs, Fl
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Sunset Orange Metalic- 2001 Camaro SS
Clutch
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...roducts_id=156
How does everyone feel on this?
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01-25-2009, 04:54 PM #3
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01-25-2009, 09:59 PM #4
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01-25-2009, 10:03 PM #5
Ive heard quite a few bad things about the spec clutches. Some chatter excessively or have engagement problems
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01-25-2009, 10:14 PM #6
that organic should be ok. single disc ceramics generally are the ones that chatter.
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01-26-2009, 03:10 AM #7
With that set up, why not go with the LS7 package. Includes flywheel too and you have room for more modifications down the road.
http://www.sdpc2000.com/product/SDLS...cFlywheel.aspx
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01-26-2009, 05:10 PM #8
- Join Date
- Oct 2008
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- pompano florida
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- 83
1968 Cutlass 350 auto red- 2000 z-28 6 spd. White
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01-26-2009, 05:12 PM #9
- Join Date
- Oct 2008
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- pompano florida
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- 83
1968 Cutlass 350 auto red- 2000 z-28 6 spd. White
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01-26-2009, 05:12 PM #10
- Join Date
- Oct 2008
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- pompano florida
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- 83
1968 Cutlass 350 auto red- 2000 z-28 6 spd. White
Do you guys think I should do the slave cylinder too?
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01-26-2009, 05:13 PM #11
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01-26-2009, 05:23 PM #12
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- pompano florida
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1968 Cutlass 350 auto red- 2000 z-28 6 spd. White
Ah man are you sure? Why?
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01-26-2009, 06:02 PM #13
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- pompano florida
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- 83
1968 Cutlass 350 auto red- 2000 z-28 6 spd. White
How about KY speed? Do you guys think that a spec 1 from them would be just as good?
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01-26-2009, 07:24 PM #14
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- Beaver Dam KY
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- 7,745
79 T/A -91 Firebird- 1998 Trans Am -Oynx Black
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01-26-2009, 07:25 PM #15
That is an excellent deal for the clutch kit and flywheel. Thats what I bought for my car when I replaced my clutch, and its been great.
Originally Posted by tomz28
Its also not reccommended that you resurface the flywheel on LS1 cars, because the clutch setup uses a concentric slave cylinder. Meaning any variation in the thickness of the clutch assembly or flywheel WILL result in improper engagement in the clutch pedal. This can be caused both by aftermarket clutch assemblies as well as worn/resurfaced/aftermarket flywheels. If you go to your local auto parts store, chances are they will sell you the clutch AND flywheel together as a package, for this very reason.
In order to keep OEM reliability, go with OEM parts. Which is why I highly reccommend the LS7 kit. No slave shims or modifications required, just bolt it in and you're good to go.
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01-27-2009, 04:57 AM #16
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01-27-2009, 07:39 AM #17
Another vote for the LS7 kit -- by the time you pick up an aftermarket clutch and flywheel, you'll end up spending almost enough to get the LS7 kit. The holding power is greatly improved from the stock clutch, however it remains stock street manners and fitment.
I've thrown well over 550+ rwhp at mine for a while now and haven't had the first problem with it.2002 Camaro SS M6, 2.5 PRC 5.3L heads, TFS 228/230 cam, FAST 92, bolt ons + a 10 lb bottle in the back.
1989 Corvette L98, A4, Full bolt ons, etc.
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01-27-2009, 07:43 AM #18
the only spec I would get drive a DD car is a spec 2 or 3+ the regular ones do not have the street temperment that the LS7 has
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01-28-2009, 07:00 AM #19
- Join Date
- Feb 2006
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- 3,384
Stock- 2002 Camaro
Ya deff go with the LS7. I had a spec before and it was a pile of
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01-31-2009, 03:59 PM #20
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- Jun 2007
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- Pasadena Crapifornia
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- 185
Machine Silver- 2004 C5Z06 Corvette
Yep, I have a Spec I with 1000 miles or 6 months.
It was my first and will be my last Spec clutch.
Replaced all the hydraulics (brand new pre-bled GM), new flywheel,
new pressure/plate, disc, locktite and proper torque.
It shifts great but it's already starting to slip at 5th and 6th at low RPMs.
I'm fairly sure the provided shim is the problem, it might be slightly pushing
the throwout bearing into the pressure/plate fingers.
.-= 2004 Machine Silver C5Z06 Vette =-
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