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Thread: new camshaft
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11-29-2008, 01:06 AM #1
new camshaft
okay so i knoo camshaftss are big topic on this webstie and everyone seems to be having the same problem as me. My problem is i want to keep it a DD and dont mind a rough idle but dont want it to bad. I was researching the Texas Speed cam packages and was thinking MS3 or the torquer and this comes with new springs and pushrods. my question is are springs and new rods all i would need to replace to keep me from damaging the engine i kno the cams going to make my revsa lil higher. any input is appreciated i have an m6 by the way.
mods include pacesetter LT's, Volant CAI, and pro 5.0 short shift
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11-29-2008, 06:58 AM #2
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Blue- 2002 Z28 Camaro M6
All that you have to have when putting in a new cam really is springs, and a good tune. Pushrods are a topic that is up to debate and most like to replace the stockers with hardened pushrods. I personally have the stockers and they go up to 6500-6700 with my setup and have no problem. I would also recommend upgrading to at least an LS2 timing chain, and LS6 ported oil pump (cheap insurance and you will be in there anyway).
Of your two cam choices I would lean towards the Torquer 2, but to me it is still just a little bigger then I would want to run in my daily, but only a little.
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11-29-2008, 10:56 AM #3
since u r on the topic of the torquer 2 i thought id butt in and i was just wondering if either of u two know when the torquer 2 starts to get power, where it peaks, and where it ends? if u know where i could get a dino graph that would be much appreciated
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11-29-2008, 11:42 AM #4
ms3 is not a good daily driver, and the power under the curve has dissapointed many less power under curve with marginally better peak #'s, Ms4 or torquer is a better option if you must go that route.
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11-29-2008, 12:12 PM #5
thanks alot for the responses guys so torquer 2 over the Magic Stick? any other experiences with other cams from different companies (dynos ect.) Im not going to swap the heads for a while but want a big enough cam that when i do it will make a difference. Also plan on getting a fast 90/90 combo soon after the cam so want a good overall package.
Last edited by NewYawk WS6; 11-29-2008 at 12:24 PM.
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11-29-2008, 01:07 PM #6
Call comp cams or another maker and have them build you a custom cam. You can go on ls1tech and look under dyno results to see people gains.
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11-30-2008, 10:47 AM #7
I'm a fan of the Texas Speed 233/239 cam.
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12-01-2008, 09:13 PM #8
may be a lil too big for me i need to keep this a DD but im liking the Texas Speed productss too how much difference does the lsa make? pretty new to camshaft mods trying to learn as much as i can.
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12-01-2008, 10:26 PM #9
Every one seems to like the comp cam 224 decent power throught the curve.
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12-02-2008, 06:12 PM #10
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NBM- 2002 Z28
228R 112lsa or something in that range.
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12-03-2008, 03:28 AM #11
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12-03-2008, 10:01 AM #12
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12-03-2008, 10:05 AM #13
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Blue- 2002 Z28 Camaro M6
Agreed, cams right around that size seem to work well for our cars as daily drivers. I do prefer a little more exhaust then intake though with stock heads.
Mine is almost the same as the 228R (226/228 .585/.588 lsa 112) and I did not notice any change in mileage except when I could not keep from playing around more
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12-03-2008, 10:40 AM #14
i dunno if my sig works yet but i have the 228r and i love it. i put down 386rwhp and 368rwtq, it's got that good sounding idle and i'll second that it's an excellent dd cam. anyway man i've got a video of me punching it and also one of just an idle if you'd like a link, i'm having dejavuh
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12-03-2008, 03:33 PM #15
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12-03-2008, 04:00 PM #16
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- Denton, Texas soon Lafayette, Louisiana
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Blue- 2002 Z28 Camaro M6
Not a 228, but close, thought I would offer up what mine sounds like. Sorry it is a crappy run and not the best quality, but it is the only vid I have of the Camaro (true duals, LTs, and 226/228 cam at the factory tire shootout in Denton).
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12-03-2008, 06:32 PM #17
m'kay here it is:
this is just the idle. the car was still gettin used to the tune so it's real slow at first, but after a few hundred miles it idles regularly immediately
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/l...dle_176464.htm
And this is me running through a couple gears, it's an awesome cam for a milder cam. i mean i put the back end out in second in this video without even trying. i'll try and get hold of the dyno graph and see if the guys at vengeance still have it.
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/l...run_176465.htm
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12-03-2008, 06:38 PM #18
with this cam i don't think you'd need a stall if i understand you correctly. it's exactly what you'd like, it's basically still got the exact same manners as in drivablility it just sounds a lot choppier. And i got the 112 lsa, you can also get 114
.... where's my sig dammitLast edited by chevyss1234; 12-03-2008 at 06:53 PM.
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12-03-2008, 09:18 PM #19
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12-04-2008, 09:37 AM #20
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SOM- 1998 T.A.
Anything 224/224 or bigger needs a stall IMHO. The tv2 you are looking at doesn't start making good torque til 3500 which is why you see so many guys running around with 3600 stalls with that cam. Decide if you are gonna stall first and how big before you get a cam. You must match them.
tv2 + no stall = pushing through the brakes and a dog down low.
Also always run hardened pushrods ($100) with a cam/spring set up. The new springs will have higher seat pressures and this will cause the stock PR's to flex causing valvetrain instability.
I would the whole cam kit that would also include new locks, Titanium retainers (lighter) and valve seals if you are going to trouble of doing it.Last edited by SOMbitch; 12-04-2008 at 09:52 AM.
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