Results 21 to 40 of 83
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03-23-2008, 07:02 AM #21
okay...so diffentently valve area...i am probly going to wait to look untill i get cam so its makes it less work...
What kinda 1/4 numbers do you think she will run with the cam setup i want?
I there any way to check if the stock bottom end will hold beside useing it and seeing...lol
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03-23-2008, 07:03 AM #22
great pass of you and your friend bills98ta!
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03-23-2008, 07:56 AM #23
what if you wait to look till you swap a cam and there is a problem? If it's a broken valve spring you could end up dropping a valve and ruin the head and whole bottom end and block. Really it takes like 15 minutes to get both valve covers off and look.
Last edited by wantedz; 03-23-2008 at 08:47 AM.
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03-23-2008, 08:02 AM #24
If you install a big cam, then you want to upgrade the lifters too... That means that you have to pull the heads to get to the lifters. Not like the older engines where you can just pull the intake... I did run a Z06 cam on my stock lifters before, & got into the high 11's with it ! ( didn't have to pull the heads ) That was a 550 lift + 1.8 rocker arms... I have the comp cams 571 lift + 1.8 rockers, Now I'm around a 600 lift area.
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03-23-2008, 08:26 AM #25
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03-23-2008, 08:40 AM #26
If one more opinion helps you make up your mind. I agree with Bills and Wanted. It's real important to find out now what is going on in there. Keep running it with that kind of noise and things could get more expensive....quick.
I know someone who ignored a similar noise in his big block chevy, and when the head of the valve came off it tore up the piston, cylinder and head! I saw it, it wasn't pretty.
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03-23-2008, 02:17 PM #27
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03-23-2008, 03:05 PM #28
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03-23-2008, 04:57 PM #29
+1 with what orion (and pretty much everybody else) said...pull the valve covers off and you may be surprised what you'd find...For me, well I wasn't too lucky, and I have to do lifters, but check that shit first! I checked mine TWICE just because I wanted to make sure I didn't miss something!
It will seriously take you about 20 minutes to pull both valve covers, and it's really easy. Also, a mechanics stethascope helps pinpoint where the noise is coming from.
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03-24-2008, 05:01 AM #30
no i mean i am not driving it until after cam...i have no 3 0 4gear in trans...I will check it though wen night that when i am getting it towed to the shop for the trans repair...i will be ordering the cam stuff when i get my checks from the bank...hopefully this week..i sucks not being able to drive her i dont know how yall do the weekend drive shit..lol THat sound good???
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03-24-2008, 05:25 AM #31
I don't think you quite understand what we're trying to say...
If you are planning to do a cam anyway, well then why not do it, but if not, then eliminate all variables from the top down first. No need to do the entire cam swap if it's only a bent pushrod...unless you had planned on doin it anyway.
If you mean you are having the shop check it out while the car is there, ok, but swapping the cam and valvetrain without troubleshooting is kinda pointless.
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03-24-2008, 05:35 AM #32
well i want to do a cam anyways, so is it ok to wait till then...???
I have had nothing but probs with her since i got here she wasnt well maintained...trans fluid took multiple flush to get pink...that was at 67k and pass cat clogg-under warranty and drive one was broken-that y i got headers, also it wasnt tuned after they put slp maf/lid on and it ran lean to a while until i bought it and 6/06 and frost tuned it in 07, and it had the wrong tb on it and now this...not to mention i need rims too cause they r rusting due to the chrome is gone...
well it is me and i dont seem to have good luck so i was just going to do cam kit to fix knock and plus i love the sound...
I just wasnt sure if i should use my stock bottom end o new and what was cause the knocking sound...
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03-24-2008, 05:49 AM #33
I know what you mean man, every car is gonna nickle and dime your ass, but I just love mine so much that it's worth every penny!! If you were gonna do the cam anyway, then why the hell not (that's what I'm doing while i tear off the heads to replace my lifters), but if it were me, I'd wanna know what was causing the noise for piece of mind.
It would suck if you swapped everything out and it was a rod knock, but from the vid it doesn't sound loud enough to be...just my .02
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03-24-2008, 06:18 AM #34
what yall think about the bottom end...everyoe i know is telling its 50 50 chance and i dont really like those odds...
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04-17-2008, 02:28 PM #35
Had this exact problem with my t/a, sorry 01ws6er would have posted earlier on your thread but not having the ticking at idle didn't add up, but now... I had 2 lifter failures back 2 back. I had a knock tap similar to GNICTRY and took it to my local f body shop. We tore down and I had 3 failed lifters. The pin that holds the roller on the lifter worked its way out and gouged the bottom of my lifter bore.(which was the worst of the three lifter failures the others just tore up my cam) My mechianc reassured me as well as everyone else standing around that the gouge was low in the lifter bore and would't affect oil pressure or anything else. 2 weeks later..... t tops off, beautiful day, going down the street coming up to a stop sign doing around 10 mph just holding in the clutch waiting for the stick to fall into first gear and boom as soon as it did my baby died.....went to crank it, snapped timing chain. So I tow it back to the shop. Tear down, SAME SHIT!!! different lifter!!!(plus some more headache material bent valves, piston slap,brand new custom grind comp cam tore up you know fun stuff.) Now I'm back at square one in the machine shop with a new block switching out internals (bottom end) because im low on cash and can't get a baddass ls2 or and ls9. So if you find yourself in the same pinch my friends do yourself a favor and just get a new block or at the very least get the block repaired(if you have the gouge from the lifter pin) before you start just thinking about a cam and lifter swap and going down the road. Best of luck I'll keep my eyes on this thread for awhile to see how it pans out for ya.
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04-18-2008, 04:41 AM #36
i wish i could do the block but as of right now i am completely tapped out...$$$ i guess ill do top end and get rid of the old lifters then save until i can switch the bottom end...i know twice the work but when your broke and dont have another car to drive not really much choose.
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04-18-2008, 10:20 PM #37
well believe me man I understand the money problems, but trust me do it right. I basiclly put $1000 in the messed up block doing what your talking about and it lasted 2 weeks. Now ive been without her for 3 months!! If you gouged that lifter bore just do it. Get a block, I got my off criagslist. The best place to get a new(ls6) is TSP, great guys....ohh and there a 75% chance your cam's screwed too...(from the failed lifter) Do yourself a favor buy a little pos 4 banger to get to work and back, so your girl can have some down time so you can get stuff right and your not doing weekend repairs rushing for monday. Thank god for my toyota camry, my dick would be in the dirt.
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04-19-2008, 12:57 PM #38
Have you been reving it pretty hard?
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04-20-2008, 08:07 AM #39
nothing out of the ordinary, the motor was "built" for high rpm. But I barely ever kissed 7 grand. Found out when we tore down only half the performance mods that were supposed to be done were.(ordered the cts-v lifters this time around hopefully no more lifter issues)
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04-20-2008, 06:08 PM #40
^ I was talking to the original thread poster
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