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  1. #101
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    69 hugger orange
    98 z28

    ive heard that they underrated the camaro so that it didnt hurt vette sales but i know i some of the 01-02 camaros got the ls6 intake and ive heard some got the cam also but who knows either way stock ls1 were all putting close to three hundred down and i know it sure made me feel good when my brother got his 390 hp supercharged cobra and was dead nuts even shift for shift with my z-28 with just catback

  2. #102
    fraz fraz1le's Avatar
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    Don't you love out running supercharged cobra's its so fun. I put 5 cars on an 04 that put down 470 to the wheels in my 99 m6 with bolt-ons and a little thing called a t-rex haha. They are like Supras great on the dyno but a Camaro with 65 less hp will kill them.
    1998 WS6 Trans Am

  3. #103
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    69 hugger orange
    98 z28

    Quote Originally Posted by fraz1le View Post
    Don't you love out running supercharged cobra's its so fun. I put 5 cars on an 04 that put down 470 to the wheels in my 99 m6 with bolt-ons and a little thing called a t-rex haha. They are like Supras great on the dyno but a Camaro with 65 less hp will kill them.
    yea he really cries when i hit mr zex

    he has done alot to it now pulley and exhaust,air so he can get me now without the spray and all i hear is u have to spray to beat me so i just tell him to pull his charger off hah i could beat him on my ten speed then

  4. #104
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    Nice.

  5. #105
    Junior Member ShelbyGLHS's Avatar
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    silver
    2002 Z28 6MT

    It is pretty well documented that the F-Body LS1 was underated from the factory.
    My car when new, (2000 mi) Stock 02 Z28 MT6 paper air filter, put down 308 rwhp, 324 tq, and ran 13.4@107 on all season tires.

    Congrats fraz1le. Looks like you are havin' lots of fun with your car. That's what it's all about.

  6. #106
    fraz fraz1le's Avatar
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    1998 WS6

    Beside weight loss what do you think I should do to run 11.5 with just bolt-ons. I got an underdrive pulley and a ported tb about to go on I'm not sure what else to do and still be considered bolt-on.

  7. #107
    your parts guy!!! 1fastcamarosss11's Avatar
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    trans am 00 ws6
    1998 camaro ss vert

    Quote Originally Posted by fraz1le View Post
    Beside weight loss what do you think I should do to run 11.5 with just bolt-ons. I got an underdrive pulley and a ported tb about to go on I'm not sure what else to do and still be considered bolt-on.
    either spray or cam should do it.
    1 7/8 headers, 90/90 intake/tb. if auto bid stall, cat back or duals.
    all bolt ones should get you to low 12's maybe high 11's. good tires ect.

    best route for our car is heads and cam.
    but depends on what you want out of the car meaning drag or street car.
    hope this helps.

  8. #108
    Member rickssz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fraz1le View Post
    How does this sound, I have an 01 Z-28 A4 w/ long tubes x-pipe a lid and hptune by me stock rear 3.23 and a fuddle 4000. The da was around +2000 my race weight is around 3500 stock susp.
    60' 1.59
    330' 4.83
    1/8 7.59 @ 88.79
    1/4 12.02 @ 110.24
    My first thought was no way but now Im thinkin its the driver and 60 ft that makes it possible. My best with similar mods but M6 was 13 flat @110 but only 2.21 60 ft on nitto DR . Thats .63 sec difference @ 60 ft so the 1/4 sure could be .98 quicker. Also I sold my Z and the guy only changed the tune a little and did 7.6 in the 1/8. His 60 was outrageous also.Same car different driver he picked up a full sec.

  9. #109
    fraz fraz1le's Avatar
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    1998 WS6

    When people think of driving they think of hitting the gears and its alot more than just that. Knowing your car what rpm to shift @ in every gear (hint its not always the same) I have dropped .2 by learn that esp. in a m6. Try shift out of 1st @ 5500 not 6000 that help my 99car .1 and 1mph. The launch is the key to the whole thing though after you get the launch down everything else just falls into place.

  10. #110
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    blank
    1999 Firebird Trans Am

    Quote Originally Posted by fraz1le View Post
    Beside weight loss what do you think I should do to run 11.5 with just bolt-ons. I got an underdrive pulley and a ported tb about to go on I'm not sure what else to do and still be considered bolt-on.
    Weight and tuning are about all that is left for a true bolt on car. What suspension mods do you have - torque arm, relocation brackets, lightweight brakes, sway bars? That is where I focused to get into the 11s bolt on only and now am going thru and stripping anything that I can live without -a/c, abs, power steering, front bumper support. All comes down to how far you are willing to go when dealing with a bolt on car.

  11. #111
    Senior Member Too Fast's Avatar
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    2000 WS6 6spd Hooker LT

    Quote Originally Posted by fraz1le View Post
    When people think of driving they think of hitting the gears and its alot more than just that. Knowing your car what rpm to shift @ in every gear (hint its not always the same) I have dropped .2 by learn that esp. in a m6. Try shift out of 1st @ 5500 not 6000 that help my 99car .1 and 1mph. The launch is the key to the whole thing though after you get the launch down everything else just falls into place.
    Hmmmmmmmmmm. That is food for thought. I usually shift at 6100 every gear for my best times, is that where you shift out of 2nd and 3rd? Definitely something for me to try this March, shifting out of first at 5500. My best has been 12.89 @ 109.9, that night I was always runnin' 109 or more. 60 fts. varied from 2.01 to 2.3.

    Anybody else have luck short shifting 1st gear?

  12. #112
    Member rickssz's Avatar
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    I thought right before it peaks shift so the time you take shifting doesnt take you to the down side of your peak that shows up on the dyno.

  13. #113
    Just another Joe Eagle's Avatar
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    You shift at 5500 in 1st because the factory tach cant keep up with the motor and you're damn near the rev limiter if you hang in it until 6100 in 1st if you're reading by the dash tach. 5500 on the dash equals about 6100 to HPtuners laptop sitting on the passenger's seat.

    You just need to learn your car. Every car will be different. 60' times is the most important thing to focus on - I can hit 1.7 60' in the spray on nitto 555RIIs and tubed LCAs... everything else is STOCK suspension wise...

    Just my $.02. Can't wait for summer...

    -Eagle

  14. #114
    fraz fraz1le's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Too Fast View Post
    Hmmmmmmmmmm. That is food for thought. I usually shift at 6100 every gear for my best times, is that where you shift out of 2nd and 3rd? Definitely something for me to try this March, shifting out of first at 5500. My best has been 12.89 @ 109.9, that night I was always runnin' 109 or more. 60 fts. varied from 2.01 to 2.3.

    Anybody else have luck short shifting 1st gear?
    I think thats a good point if you car is pulling hard your tach is behind a little but 6100 is my shift point on the other gears.

  15. #115
    Member rickssz's Avatar
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    Ok so rethinking maybe I shouldnt be trying to max my HP curve and shift earlier to take advantage of my torque curve.

  16. #116
    fraz fraz1le's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rickssz View Post
    Ok so rethinking maybe I shouldnt be trying to max my HP curve and shift earlier to take advantage of my torque curve.
    I know ever car is probably diff. but after hundred of trips down the track that is what worked best for me. I never dynoed the car till I put a cam in it but it ran 12.3 w/a crappy flowmaster catback, lid, headers and 3.73 no tune and I thought that was pretty good for a 99 car that weighed 3600lbs.

  17. #117
    Senior Member Too Fast's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eagle View Post
    You shift at 5500 in 1st because the factory tach cant keep up with the motor and you're damn near the rev limiter if you hang in it until 6100 in 1st if you're reading by the dash tach. 5500 on the dash equals about 6100 to HPtuners laptop sitting on the passenger's seat.

    You just need to learn your car. Every car will be different. 60' times is the most important thing to focus on - I can hit 1.7 60' in the spray on nitto 555RIIs and tubed LCAs... everything else is STOCK suspension wise...

    Just my $.02. Can't wait for summer...

    -Eagle
    Well, about the tach, it is a little slow, but I usually shift at 6100 according to the tach no matter what gear I am in. I thought the limiter was set at 6200 from the factory? I rarely feel it bounce off that. My tach is off about 200 RPM according to my Snap-On scanner, @ 5000 RPM.

    And yeah, the drag strip is open this late March! I would like an LS6 intake for Valentine's day, please.

  18. #118
    fraz fraz1le's Avatar
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    I think more than anything 1st and 2nd ratio is closer and it pulls better in 2nd at a lower shift point and the other gears are taller and you need all the rpm you get before shifting to them.

  19. #119
    Just another Joe Eagle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Too Fast View Post
    Well, about the tach, it is a little slow, but I usually shift at 6100 according to the tach no matter what gear I am in. I thought the limiter was set at 6200 from the factory? I rarely feel it bounce off that. My tach is off about 200 RPM according to my Snap-On scanner, @ 5000 RPM.

    And yeah, the drag strip is open this late March! I would like an LS6 intake for Valentine's day, please.
    Mine must be slower than yours because I bounce of the limiter quite a bit because my motor makes power all the way up to it! Until I started driving around and consciously comparing remembered shift points with HPT data I didn't realize just how high I had been shifting.

    -Eagle

  20. #120
    Senior Member Too Fast's Avatar
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    2000 WS6 6spd Hooker LT

    Yes, I don't really feel the power drop off at high RPM either. Another nice thing about these engines, IMO.

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