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Thread: I'm new here, please be gentle
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01-13-2020, 08:41 AM #1
- Join Date
- Oct 2018
- Location
- Hershey, PA
- Age
- 60
- Posts
- 3
I'm new here, please be gentle
Hello All,
I'm in the final (I hope) stages of a L33 swap into a 2000 Mazda Miata.
I'm in my 50's and I have been working on my own cars since before I owned one. My Dad didn't love when I worked on his. I had a short stint as a professional mechanic. I'm in the process of learning HPTuners in order to be able to troubleshoot this project.
Pretty much everything is installed. I working on the final details of the wiring, like speedo and tach. They are evading me so far.
the biggest challenge I've run into is that it was running, but after working under the dash to get some chassis systems squared away it won't start. The spark is weirdly weak and erratic.
I have check ground paths and reinforced the engine to body to battery grounds.
some specifics:
OEM GM computer using HPTuners. VATTS (sp?) is disabled.
stock truck coils, stock throttle body and new stock injectors (using LS6 fuel rail) with a Dorman 615-900 intake.
PCM has been bench tuned to run.
F-body LS T-56 into a GETRAG 3.42
I'm baffled. I'm open to any suggestions.
Thanks
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01-16-2020, 02:59 AM #2
Check the plug wires -- remove and reinstall each wire. You should hear/feel two (2) distinct "clicks" at the coil pack and one (1) distinct "click" at the plug. I agree that you could have a ground issue -- there are a couple of ground connections on a stock engine/harness that you may simply be missing and that a direct engine to chassis ground connection will not cure.
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01-16-2020, 08:12 PM #3
Welcome to site!
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01-28-2020, 08:27 AM #4
- Join Date
- Oct 2018
- Location
- Hershey, PA
- Age
- 60
- Posts
- 3
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03-07-2020, 04:24 AM #5
- Join Date
- Oct 2018
- Location
- Hershey, PA
- Age
- 60
- Posts
- 3
Hello All,
As promised, I wanted to let y’all know how the no-start condition resolved.
I discovered, when cranking, power was lost to the PCM. Upon further investigation, I found that I had connected the starting signal to a circuit connected to the “run”, not the “start/run” terminal on the ignition switch. One quick wiring change and voila! It stars and runs!
Later, sadly, nearing completion of dyno tuning, the engine developed a well defined miss, maybe several.
I took it home and found four (4) broken or bent pushrods.
I’m in the process of taking the heads off to investigate. I’ll let y’all know what I find and how it resolves.
I keep telling myself, “Projects are journeys, not destinations.” Right now, that’s not very comforting.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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