Results 6,721 to 6,740 of 7122
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12-28-2019, 08:55 AM #6721
- Join Date
- Sep 2010
- Location
- Bel Air, Maryland
- Posts
- 1,750
Silver- '02 Trans Am WS-6, 6M
I’ve replaced my second headlight motor on my passenger side, I have some vibration on that side, even replaced the bushing, bolt, and nuts for the mounting peice to the to headlight frame. Might have a shop look at it.
I still have all of my original motor sets, never gotten to doing the rebuild, a bad excuse being that I only have had 11 years since the first ones came off.SLP Air Lid/Smooth Bellows
L76 6.0L block, PRC Ported 243 heads, Texas Speed 224R cam.
Kooks Emissions LT Headers/Catted Y pipe
Elite Engineering PCV Oil Catch Can
SLP Smooth Air Lid and Smooth Belows
NGK TR55 plugs
Magnaflow Cat-back
Spohn Front Upper Tubular Control Arms
UMI Front Lower Tubular Control Arms
UMI Front Sway Bar
UMI Rear Lower Control Arms/ Adjustable Panhard Rod
UMI Welded-on Two Piece Subframe Connectors
Factory C5 Z06 17x9.5 wheels w/ 285-40-17 Continental Extreme Contact Sports all the way around.
Dyno Dynamics dynoed @ 415 rwhp
Weight reduction via removal of dead mice
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12-28-2019, 09:03 AM #6722
- Join Date
- Sep 2010
- Location
- Bel Air, Maryland
- Posts
- 1,750
Silver- '02 Trans Am WS-6, 6M
I used to get 26 mpg when my car was under 100k and stock tune; I would drive from my wifes place in Harford County, to Silver Spring and visa versa when we were dating, and traffic did around 40-45 mph.
Now that I drive through Bulletmores tunnels, and their even efficient traffic patterns, 205k, and a more enriched tune, I get around 22 mpg.
Eventually, I want to build a LS2/LS3 build that is leaner on light load and hope to pick up much more overall power but improve fuel mileage.
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12-28-2019, 09:12 AM #6723
- Join Date
- Sep 2010
- Location
- Bel Air, Maryland
- Posts
- 1,750
Silver- '02 Trans Am WS-6, 6M
Trials and tribulations of a 205k, 18 year old daily driver hot rod.
This month, rust finally poked through the inner quarter wheelhouses, hammered rust off and POR-15’ed the bejeezus out of them, then filled the gaps in with aluminum foil backing and JB Weld’s strongest formula, and then covered with rubberized undercoating. I’m going to hold off a year or two to save cash for a proper fix.
Took off the air filter housing assembly to clean up some rust, and POR-15’ed, the touch up painted.
By the way, if anyone is curious, 205k builds up a lot of crap on the front of the radiator; used a mixture of water and Spray Nine to get the muck off of it and clean out, followed by a pure water spritzing to rinse.
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12-30-2019, 03:05 AM #6724
^^ A much overlooked maintenance item, flushing out the radiator fins.
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12-30-2019, 09:34 AM #6725
- Join Date
- Sep 2010
- Location
- Bel Air, Maryland
- Posts
- 1,750
Silver- '02 Trans Am WS-6, 6M
Agreed! I should’ve know better, myself; I am amazed that the car hasnt had an issue keeping cool, in the summer with stop&go traffic and the AC on!
My Cutlass and my ‘89 T/A couldn't keep a radiator for 75k miles, and green coolant was flushed yearly, so never really had an issue.
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12-30-2019, 12:12 PM #6726
When I had my tranny out getting it rebuilt, I did an intense clean from front to back, and I too found rust all up under the car. POR 15 is my best friend!! Painted the trans cross member that had rusted from dragging over speed bumps, turned out looking like new. I also POR 15'd the bottom of the radiator mount when I replaced my plastic radiator with an all aluminum one. I also had rust up in the wheel well near the gas tank entrance. I took the plastic cover off from inside the driver rear wheel well and found a lot of rust way up in the top. POR 15 to the rescue again. I also found rust on a lot of the mounting brackets near the rear end of the car. But, what do you expect when buying a car from Maine!?? Road salt is a cars worst enemy. Yeah, I have fount all kinds of trash wedged up in the top edge of the radiator. I thought about putting window screen under the front lip of the car where the radiator draws it's air right in front of the diverter spoiler underneath the car, but haven't come up with a tactful design yet. That would keep everything but air from going through it. I've pulled plastic, leaves, and grass shavings out. That cannot be good for cooling!
Ported/Polished throttle body, Lingenfelter launch module, SLP line lock, QTP exhaust cutout, LS7 clutch, K&N, Ceramic coated longtubes, no cats, 3" exhaust, Flowmaster "B", Eibach springs, Midwest Chassis 9" rearend w/4.10's
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12-31-2019, 01:50 AM #6727
Better to simply clean out in front of the radiator every now and then. Anything that obstructs airflow is going to adversely affect cooling.
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12-31-2019, 09:06 AM #6728
True on air obstructions, but doesn't air flow freely through a window screen? My thought was to make that part of the car maintenance free, and not have to crawl up underneath it...guess if I had a lift, it would be less of an issue, but how many times have you been out on the road, and see a plastic bag rolling across the highway or side street?....and wonder...I saw that piece of plastic go under my car...where did it go...cuz I didn't see it in my rear view mirror after I passed it....so.....is it up in my radiator?? Then I start watching the temp gauge to see if it in fact DID get sucked up and covering my radiator.... Seems like it would be less to be concerned about if there was a screen of some kind covering the half moon opening at the base of the radiator....
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01-01-2020, 05:48 AM #6729
Maybe chicken wire -- but go grab a screen out of a window at your house and try to wave it around. You will feel a ton of resistance.
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01-01-2020, 10:13 AM #6730
- Join Date
- Feb 2009
- Location
- Florida Man Status Acheivement
- Posts
- 11,808
Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A, 00 FBVert, 78T/A
Had a plastic bag or two get sucked up between the radiator a time or to.
Looking to do a plug change today.
Also Don, on the wheel hub, holy shift, when they got so damn expensive. I was thinking $60ish but $120.....
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01-01-2020, 03:41 PM #6731
Hey Scott, RockAuto sells the TIMKEN 513090 for $51.79. Check it. Do you lift the car and access the plugs from underneath? When I had the car on 14" blocks under the tires, it looked like the plugs would be easier to access than from above. I haven't done it, but just saying...
Yeah, Jeff, I need to do something, just for the peace of mind. Chicken wire would keep the large items out. Thanks man!
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01-01-2020, 06:11 PM #6732
- Join Date
- Feb 2009
- Location
- Florida Man Status Acheivement
- Posts
- 11,808
Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A, 00 FBVert, 78T/A
What did you do with your Trans Am today?
Thanks, I'll check it.
Normally I'd go under for #8 (which I loath) but I have headers and can remove my coil packs easy that I can access it from the top. Just takes a 1/2 hour to an hour to get it that one alone. had the other 7 done in 25 mins.http://www.ls1.com/forums/f7/my-6-liter-build-174257/
http://www.ls1.com/forums/f8/my-8-8-rear-build-165553/
6.0L Block - Forged 403ci, Polluter Stg3 Cam, FAST 102mm Intake, NW102 TB, MSD wires, NGK TR6 plugs, Truck Coil Packs, LS3 Fuel Injectors, CC Pacesetter LT Headers, TS&P ORY, QTP e-Cutout, Magnaflow Muffler, 104mm Air Lid & Line Lock, Catch Can, Stage 2 T56 w/Viper shaft, PRO 5.0 Shifter, Tick MC, SPEC Stg3+ Clutch, QT SFI BH, MWC DSL, Full UMI Performance Suspension, Viking Coilovers, YR1 Snowflake Wheels wrapped in NT555 tires & Custom Fab Ford 8.8 rear w/Wavetrac Diff 3.93 Yukon Gears, WSQ Hood, 3"CM Strange Eng Drive Shaft.
00 FB Vert - "Stockish" Belstein Shocks, Hotchkis Springs (1" Drop), C7 Snowflake 17" Wheels
78 FB - Just getting started......
Horsepower never lies, but is often lied about!
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01-02-2020, 08:32 AM #6733
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01-03-2020, 03:56 PM #6734
Nothing except a little driving today, but over the past month I've needed to take my car several times to the same shop for urgent, surprise problems. The last time there I told the employee that some of those issues should've been detected before they got so bad (like the non-emergency low tire pressure that I noticed from ~10 feet away), but the response deflected. When I picked my car up, I noticed that an item inside that a technician would be unable to avoid and already was falling apart had almost been completely broken. I'm suspicious.
Last edited by clovenhooves; 01-03-2020 at 03:58 PM.
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01-03-2020, 05:12 PM #6735
Hey Clovenhooves, that is the very reason I try to do all my own work, unless it's rebuilding a transmission or rearend, both of which come with a warranty. Everything else is DIY.
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01-04-2020, 10:47 AM #6736
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01-04-2020, 03:05 PM #6737
- Join Date
- Feb 2009
- Location
- Florida Man Status Acheivement
- Posts
- 11,808
Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A, 00 FBVert, 78T/A
What did you do with your Trans Am today?
did my daughter's vert front wheel hub. easy, 20 min job. well 30 because I had to guide her over the process. All I did was break free to bolts, she did the rest.
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01-08-2020, 02:05 PM #6738
Females are just as capable, as long as they don't mind breaking a fingernail!!!!
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01-14-2020, 04:14 AM #67392000 Trans Am WS.6 M6
SLP lid & bellow w/ K&N, GMMG catback w/ Corsa Clones, UMI SFC, UMI Adj. Panhard, UMI Adj. TQ arm w/ relocation kit, QTP Longtube headers ORY, LS6 intake, EGR/A.I.R delete.
Eibach prokit, Bilstein HDs, Nitto NT555s, skip shift elim, whiteface overlays, 20% tint, matte black decal/overlays
YouTube.com/DarrenWS6
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01-14-2020, 09:51 AM #6740
The computers on our cars will let us know with an error code in the PO300 range of a faulty ignition coil. I wouldn't replace them until I got a fault code indicating a misfire or failure. If it's not broke, don't fix it!!!
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