What did you do with your Trans Am today?

***SMWS6TA*** · 11-28-2017, 07:20 AM

If that Procharger continues to taunt you, just box it up and send my way. I'll teach it some manners.

***SMWS6TA*** · 11-28-2017, 07:23 AM

Originally Posted by Y2KArcticSS

Fixed the fuel issue we were having with our T/A last weekend. My dad and I pulled the pump, and luckily the previous owner already had a very clean hatch cut. It turns out, the previous owner's mechanic was a joke. They did a very piss poor job of installing the Racetronix pump. The secondary fuel line into the top of the pump was plastic and kinked in several places because it wasn't meant to bend (think of trying to use a McDonald's straw in that location). On top of that it was actually completely disconnected from the pump itself. Easy fix with some $3 fuel tubing from O'Reilly's. Also, we found that the clamp for the top of the accordion feed line was half-ass crimped and very loose, no seal. Easy fix with some real man-hands and a pair of pliers. The car runs SO much better now it's unbelievable. No more cutting out at 1/4 tank and below (probably because the pump isn't sucking air anymore where the secondary hose was supposed to be), and the car just feels more powerful overall. I still think it needs a better tune, but I'm really starting to wonder if the pump could have been part of the reason for subpar numbers in the first place. That will have to wait until after Christmas.

A wide band and fuel pressure gauge could have helped on that.

Every time I think of my fuel pump issues it pisses me off so I feel your pain.

**Y2KArcticSS** · 11-28-2017, 07:35 AM

Permanent pressure gauge is on my to-do list for sure.

I have 0 experience with wideband setups, but I'm not opposed to it either if it helps to solve problems quicker.

***SMWS6TA*** · 11-28-2017, 07:49 AM

I got mine from Glowshift. Very happy with mine so far.

Wideband gives you a live reading of what's going on with the exhaust. I can see when I get into it and off of it the changes. You can tell, once you have some time with it, if you're running rich or lean and if at low rpms or high.

My biggest lesson learned is when you go to drill into the firewall for gauge wires. Make it at least a 1/2" to 5/8" hole. That way you have just one and your done for future projects. I have 3 holes now and wish I had done it the other way. If it wasn't such a PITA to disconnect all the wires, drill the hole and rerun them again I would have done it.

The other suggestion is for the 12v switch wire. I ran mine to tied into the yellow wire (12v switch) for the radio. It is easier to identify it then trying to find one under the dash. I also made a tie in box for my 12v constant and ground sources so I only had to run one red wire thru the wire wall.

**sjgreen6** · 11-28-2017, 01:31 PM

[QUOTE=SMWS6TA;1145560935]

My biggest lesson learned is when you go to drill into the firewall for gauge wires. Make it at least a 1/2" to 5/8" hole. That way you have just one and your done for future projects. I have 3 holes now and wish I had done it the other way. If it wasn't such a PITA to disconnect all the wires, drill the hole and rerun them again I would have done it.

QUOTE]

Can you describe where you think the best place is to drill through the firewall? I've got to install a wide band and boost soon.

***SMWS6TA*** · 11-28-2017, 01:47 PM

There's a spot on the drives side that is just under the brake booster that PAJeff showed me. He may be able to find his pic faster then I can.

**pajeff02** · 12-01-2017, 03:16 PM

I have a whole thread on drilling the hole through the firewall... but thanks to StupidBucket I won't be showing anyone on here.

PM me an email address and I can send you the pics. The thread may still have good info even without the pics: http://www.ls1.com/forums/f6/running...rewall-139760/

**hardtrailz** · 12-01-2017, 03:30 PM

Picked it up with the Smoothie Q

Attachment 26842

**sjgreen6** · 12-02-2017, 01:45 PM

PM sent, thanks!

**DarrenWS6** · 12-03-2017, 01:50 PM

Originally Posted by pajeff02

I have a whole thread on drilling the hole through the firewall... but thanks to StupidBucket I won't be showing anyone on here.

PM me an email address and I can send you the pics. The thread may still have good info even without the pics: http://www.ls1.com/forums/f6/running...rewall-139760/

You can still link the direct URL, just can't host it visually on another page. Still sucks, but click it links are still ok.

**hardtrailz** · 12-04-2017, 06:05 AM

The tires on the 18s were junk so i put on these stock 16s i found and polished back up. Had been in a barn for years and took som work, but came out OK. I do think the 18s will go back on when I find some tires for them though.

**RONS98TA** · 12-05-2017, 03:01 AM

Originally Posted by 98TransAmWs-6

Pictures of the one in question. A tire shop should know if it's on right though right lol? I've not had issues with this shop in the past so I'm at a loss unless it's a bad tire.

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That is way to much weight. I worked at Firestone back in the early 90's, and we had a policy to never use more then 3 ounces total per tire. Sometimes we took the tire and unmounted it, then spun it around 180 degrees. Either the balancing machine is not properly calibrated, the tire installer is incompetent, or you have a defective tire from the factory. I would try taking it to another tire installer before attempting to sent it back to the factory. Although after doing a few smoky burnouts with them and losing some rubber, the tire is probably gonna be a little out of balance anyway.

**98TransAmWs-6** · 12-05-2017, 04:04 AM

Originally Posted by RONS98TA

That is way to much weight. I worked at Firestone back in the early 90's, and we had a policy to never use more then 3 ounces total per tire. Sometimes we took the tire and unmounted it, then spun it around 180 degrees. Either the balancing machine is not properly calibrated, the tire installer is incompetent, or you have a defective tire from the factory. I would try taking it to another tire installer before attempting to sent it back to the factory. Although after doing a few smoky burnouts with them and losing some rubber, the tire is probably gonna be a little out of balance anyway.

From what the manufacturer said to seems the tire needs to be balanced statically and or rotated 180 and balanced again. I'll probably take it somewhere else or try it again.

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**98TransAmWs-6** · 12-06-2017, 05:48 AM

I bought some titanium header wrap since my exhaust will be going through my engine compartment and out the bumper. Also I don't want to melt wires or anything.

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**Too Fast** · 12-06-2017, 02:15 PM

Long time member, first post in a while lol. I researched a new ORY for my '00 WS6, because the one I bought along with the Hooker headers back in November '06 is getting rusty and leaky. Amazingly I found my original paperwork from then and confirmed the ORY is still available, PN 16723HKR. Dammit, car sounds like some POS truck right now. Can't have that.

**pajeff02** · 12-07-2017, 02:54 PM

Stainless is the only way to fly with exhaust components.

**RONS98TA** · 12-08-2017, 05:10 AM

I bought what was suppose to be stainless headers back in 2000 for my 98TA. They are not. They began to rust after just 5 years or so. I rarely get caught in the rain, and store it in a garage. Definitely need to upgrade to stainless KOOKS 1 7/8" headers and 3" true duels in the near future. Since the Procharger install, the car just cant breath good enough with the current puny headers and y pipe.

**BobbyGFirebird** · 12-08-2017, 03:56 PM

what OR/Y pipe ? Iknow the Y, just not the OR. Thanks

**Whamhammer** · 12-08-2017, 04:30 PM

Originally Posted by pajeff02

Stainless is the only way to fly with exhaust components.

Now if we can just have the stainless exhaust parts from scraping speed bumps...

**Naaman** · 12-09-2017, 02:09 AM

Did an oil change and a power steering pump change yesterday. Still haven't driven on the new pump. It's a Turn One, so I'm interested to see if it feels different.