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09-04-2007, 07:06 PM #1
- Join Date
- Aug 2007
- Location
- temple ga
- Posts
- 34
red- 1998 Z28
how hard is it to replace t56 parts
I have a t56 in my 98 z28, but 6th is shot. I cant get it in at all, mechanic told me that the syncronisors were bad, snapring was broken, and 5/6 fork felt bent. He said also that a pin might be out of alignment for the 6th gear, I have no problems in any other gear, every now and then I get a grind on reverse or 3rd, but very seldom, and may still be me getting used to t56 style if gears. Always had 5 speeds, and 6 is deffinatly different.
Anyway, my question is, how hard is it to replace common rebuild items found in a rebuild kit? Is this something I need to pay 300.00 for cracking the case open, then labor, and then 400.00 in parts from a 200.00 rebuild kit? I was told it will cost me at least 1000.00 to fix the 6th gear problem. transmission has 110,010 miles on it, and I just changed fluid this weekend to see if that would help. It didnt, but I used atf III, which is what manual said, but I see some people are suggesting syncromesh? not sure what that is.
I also notice alot of heat and noise coming from trans tunnel inside car, I took center console off, and someone has cut the rubber boot off the t56 shifter, and I think thats why its so loud, but why is it soooo hot. My 95 was not like this.
Thnx
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09-21-2007, 06:11 PM #2
- Join Date
- Oct 2005
- Location
- Kentucky
- Age
- 63
- Posts
- 10
Red- 2000 WS6
I just finished rebuilding my T56 myself. It was a little intimidating at first but I eventually worked through everything. I ordered all of the parts from D&D and down loaded the shop manual from the internet. Since I have a press and other machine shop equipment, I made the tools needed to pull gears, press bearings and anything else. I replaced all of the synchronizers, bearings and changed to the steel 3/4 shift fork along with a few other parts.
The biggest challenge I had was understanding how the 5/6 shift rail needed to be positioned while reassembling the center case section. But after playing with it several times, I figured it out. Setting up the bearing pre load and end play tolerances also takes a little time and the snap rings require patience and the right tools.
This task is one in which you need to be mechanically inclined and have the equipment and tools to do it, at least to do it right. If you decide to go for it, my advice is to take your time, and really look at how it comes apart.
The manual shows the diagrams but it does not walk you through how to rebuild it. It tells you how to disassemble and reassemble with minimal wording. There may be other resources on how to rebuild it that give better pictures and commentary.
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10-01-2007, 06:20 PM #3
Its not too bad for a 1st timer but you will need a build sheet and pay attention to what you are doing . I've built so damn many its like a 2nd nature to me but the 1st couple were a challenge .
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10-01-2007, 06:28 PM #4
- Join Date
- Dec 2006
- Location
- Pensacola
- Age
- 36
- Posts
- 1,561
Red- 2001 Camaro SS A4
can you tell me what this problem is then?
whenever i go into reverse and start to move my shifter pops out of reverse (yes im sure I have it in all the way)..then if I hold it while reversing it just grinds like hell...
then I have to completely stop and shove it into reverse again and it sometimes fixes the problem
sync maybe?
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10-01-2007, 06:38 PM #5
Its probably a combination of three things :
1. broken fork inserts on the reverse gear fork and possibly a worn out fork itself
2. syncro needs to be replaced
3. the reverse gear slider is burred to hell and needs to be clean up or replaced .
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10-01-2007, 06:40 PM #6
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10-01-2007, 06:50 PM #7
More than likely they will give you a rebuilt unit . I doubt the dealer will attempt to rebuild it in house .
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10-01-2007, 06:50 PM #8
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10-01-2007, 07:06 PM #9
They will probably either replace it with a GM unit or they might out source it to a local transmission shop in that area .
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10-01-2007, 07:15 PM #10
- Join Date
- Dec 2006
- Location
- Pensacola
- Age
- 36
- Posts
- 1,561
Red- 2001 Camaro SS A4
cool deal..sorry for stealing your thread voodoo
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02-04-2008, 12:42 PM #11
- Join Date
- Feb 2008
- Location
- Phoenix
- Posts
- 3
Black- 1998 Trans AM WS6
You wouldn't happen to know the link to find the rebuild shop manual would you?
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02-04-2008, 12:55 PM #12
- Join Date
- Mar 2006
- Location
- LS1 land
- Age
- 37
- Posts
- 1,666
http://www.ttcautomotive.com/English/products/T-56.asp
click on service manual
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02-04-2008, 04:37 PM #13
- Join Date
- Feb 2008
- Location
- Phoenix
- Posts
- 3
Black- 1998 Trans AM WS6
I really appreciate it, thank you for the quick response.
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02-05-2008, 11:34 AM #14
I have a Pewter 2000 SS T-Top 6spd ebony leather, with SLP induction and exhaust, stut brace(UMI), drilled/slotted rotors, frame connectors(not on car), w/60,000 mi that I'm looking to sell to buy a Harley. Though I have the ability, I do not have the equipment to rebuild the broken 1-2 synchro's in the trans myself. I have gotten $12-1300 quotes in the S E Pittsburgh area to do the job. I want $14.5 out of the car which seems to be fair according to the market. Less of course with the trans prob.
Question: Do I sell broken and hope to get $13 or do I fix? Know any place to get the car fixed cheaper near Pitts. PA?
Any advice appreciated
Thanks, ST
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02-05-2008, 01:32 PM #15
^ I would buy a used t56 for 900-1000 and throw it in and sell. Not many people want to deal with issues like a trans when paying 13+ grand for a car. Just my opinion.
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02-05-2008, 02:35 PM #16
- Join Date
- Mar 2006
- Location
- LS1 land
- Age
- 37
- Posts
- 1,666
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02-05-2008, 06:50 PM #17
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02-06-2008, 11:42 AM #18
Thanks for the opinions. I'm sure your right. I would probably think it was ragged on too.
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