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05-28-2007, 07:06 PM #1
sub frame connectors))) boxed VS. tubular AND WHICH IS THE BEST BRAND???
im looking at the BMR 's SFC's and this will be the first set just seeing which brand and which kind whould be te best for me.
decription.
lots of drag racing/ but is a DD but mostly a weekend driver
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05-28-2007, 07:58 PM #2
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05-28-2007, 09:31 PM #3
I heard the same thing.
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05-28-2007, 09:39 PM #4
- Join Date
- Feb 2007
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- E-town, Kentucky
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- 38
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95-black & 80-blue- 95 Trans Am and 80 TA
iv always been told that the tube is better. and that is what i have. and if the box was better, then y dont they make box frame drag car instade of tube frame?
95 TA A4, Black on Black C5 Z06 wheels, CAI, 160 powerstat, TB coolent bypass, TB foil, LT4 Knock Sensor, STB, SFC, Poly trans and torque arm mounts, flowmaster muffler, gutted cat, and hypertech tuned.
http://www.fquick.com/SexyTransAm
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05-29-2007, 02:50 PM #5
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06-02-2007, 06:21 PM #6
because round tubing will be lighter and easier to bend. you ever look to see how much bracing they do to make that frame? also, look at the funny cars when they launch. the frames are twisting. in slow motion, you can really see it.
if round tubing is better, then why are all of the production cars made out of square tubing? look at the current C5 and C6 corvette. the frame is made out of 2" x 3" square tubing.
boxed is more rigid.
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06-02-2007, 06:36 PM #7
Ive got tubulars put on a month ago and once again I felt ZERO difference.
I honestly dont understand where people think they feel a difference.
Two cars now...99 T/A M6
LS6 intake, Hooker Coated Long Tubes, Y-pipe w/1 carsound cat, Hooker Catback, MTi Clear Lid, FRA w/ Holley Power Shot, ASP crank pulley, 1.8 RRs, 3.73s w/TA girdle & Eaton Differential, Granatelli SFCs, Pro 5.0 Shifter, LS6 Clutch, Diablo, TByrnes Maf Ends (in winter), All the Free Mods
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06-02-2007, 06:37 PM #8
daily driving, you most likely won't.
Cold Air Intake, Muffler Delete, Vinci High Performance Dual Valve Springs, Hardened Pushrods, Yella Terra 1.85 Rockers, Some Hydropdipped Stuff, Strut Tower Brace, Some SS Badges, boost/vacuum gauge, fuel pressure gauge, some checkered stripes, drilled/slotted rotors, ZL1addons Stealth wickerbill, Ruxifey LED side markers
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06-02-2007, 07:11 PM #9
1. Boxed weld ins
2. BMR
3.
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06-02-2007, 09:36 PM #10
are relocation brackets absolutely necessary to notice a difference?
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06-02-2007, 09:52 PM #11
- Join Date
- Sep 2005
- Location
- New York, NY
- Posts
- 1,718
Collectors Edition Yellow- 2002 Pontiac Trans AM WS6
I think ur thinking of lower control arms for th erelocation brackets...SFC dont need to be relocated to my knowledge....And the relocation kit for the LCA's ( if thats what ur referring 2) is usually for cars that have been lowered to the ground other then what comes from the factory.... If this wasnt wat u were referring 2 this just ignore me cuz im retarted... and its waaaay 2 late
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06-03-2007, 06:58 AM #12
try umi... great stuff just my .02
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06-03-2007, 07:04 AM #13
- Join Date
- Apr 2006
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- Fayetteville, NC
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NBM- 1999 Trans Am WS6
Boxed BMR's!!
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06-03-2007, 09:00 AM #14
You gotta know most of everyone on here would disagree with you and say they noticed it the moment they left the shop.
I didnt on this one nor did I on my 94 mustang gt convertible.
There are other mods that Ive done to the car that I havent noticed either. In any case, I thought if I wanted to do more suspension work, I will buy more than one item at a time and install them all at once.
I like to feel a difference in my car after spending $$.
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06-03-2007, 09:26 AM #15
Well I realize some aftermarket parts are worth the money/time but not all are. Companys constantly make false claims to duke people into buying.
Look at the tornado! ahahahahahaha
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06-07-2007, 04:43 AM #16
- Join Date
- Jun 2002
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- Montreal, CANADA
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- 50
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triple-black- 2000 CamaroSS convertible
SLP SFC are great.
I have the KBDD... cause they were the only triangular design @ the time 4 convertiblesEugenio_SS
almost stock triple-black 2000 SS convertible with 17x11s on all 4 w/ 315s at the track or on the street with 18x10.5s on all 4 w/ 315s: (1), (2)
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06-07-2007, 08:35 AM #17
I think it depends on the car..
I have a very low mileage T/A that wasnt beat by the seller, I recently added SFC and didnt notice anything, but I a have heard guys with cars some what older and or abused cars say they noticed a change after install.
Basically my main concern was to keep the ingrety of the chassis and body from not changing, not to mention stability for the track.
I saw a buddy of mine last night at the track who has a 98 z28, not much done to it, runs it all the time.., you can see the waves on his right quarter, I said to him you DONT have SFC's do you?, he laughs and says.."how can you tell.."
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06-07-2007, 07:47 PM #18
- Join Date
- May 2006
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- Canada
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Blue 1997 Trans Am(Sold)- Pewter 2001 Trans Am Vert
I second that previous statement, I intend on getting SFC for my vert first and foremost because I think its an absolute nessicity for verts. Secondly because I feel that even if I don't feel a difference that it will just ensure that I don't start feeling a negative difference in the future (that is to say body roll and whatnot) Furthermore, I think that if you put SFC on your car and you really don't feel a difference its a good thing, that means your car still has a rigid solid body
just my .02
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06-07-2007, 07:50 PM #19
- Join Date
- May 2006
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- Canada
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Blue 1997 Trans Am(Sold)- Pewter 2001 Trans Am Vert
As for my question, I'm still undecided on which SFC to take, I don't even know who offers round or square tubing. I'm leaning towards square for multiple reasons, but something I'm really interested in is SFC that meet in the middle I feel that this will make a much bigger difference then just the two bars on the sides... please correct me if I'm wrong.
If anyone knows of a brand that matches that description please let me know... I might just custom make mine
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06-07-2007, 08:48 PM #20
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