3.23 to 3.73?? Would I get better time?

[JGP023]

Just curious if I would gain anything by switching from the stock 3.23 gears to 3.73 in the 1/4? 2002 WS6 TA LS1 mild cam, automatic with 344 HP at the rear wheels running 13.3 at 104mph. I do run the drag radials when at the track. I figured best ask to see what other have done. So much conflicting data figured best ask and see what others have done. Thanks

[SMWS6TA]

While there are many factors in getting better times, going to a 3.73 gr will help. You get some increase in low in tq but will decrease mpg. A fair tradeoff in my book. I will warn you that the 10 bolt is a glass cannon in these cars. Lucky your an automatic so not as much shook to the rear compared to a manual. If you ever get a torque converter you may want to invest in a better rear. 8.8, 12 bolt or 9" are common upgrades. I built my 8.8 before they started offering them. I only recommend 9" for heavy track use

[Whamhammer]

Just curious if I would gain anything by switching from the stock 3.23 gears to 3.73 in the 1/4? 2002 WS6 TA LS1 mild cam, automatic with 344 HP at the rear wheels running 13.3 at 104mph. I do run the drag radials when at the track. I figured best ask to see what other have done. So much conflicting data figured best ask and see what others have done. Thanks

344 RWHP with a cam? That sounds a bit low. Are you in a higher altitude?

Are you running stock exhaust manifolds and exhaust?

Also, whats the performance goals of the car?

[SMWS6TA]

if it's a 228 cam that's about the right numbers with stock heads

[JGP023]

344 RWHP with a cam? That sounds a bit low. Are you in a higher altitude?

Are you running stock exhaust manifolds and exhaust?

Also, what's the performance goals of the car?

Our altitude is 1600' - car does have stock manifolds but has Texas Speed exhaust, Cam Motion Stage II Mild cam which is just over a stock LS6 Z06 Corvette. I look at the 2002 Z06 with stock manifolds and stock exhaust and they are running 12.2 in the 1/4 with 405HP from the factory. I had hoped it would be under 13.0. Goals are to get it under 13. Basically I am staying with the HP range that the stock fuel pump works which was just replaced runs 58lbs at idle, and stock injectors work. Let me ask you this. My 1970 GTO I had a 3000 stall with 3.55 gears and car run great. But around town with the stall it felt like a slipping transmission. I meet a guy playing with these cars and he told the technology on the stall speed converters has changed a lot and drivability around town is no longer an issue. FYI been dealing with some typical health issues so sorry for the late reply. I do use the Nitto Drag Radials RIII at the track and man they do make it hook as it never spins off the line with the traction control off. I will say it is very consistent at the 13.3.

[SMWS6TA]

For comparison....You can see what is my signature on the mods I have. I ran 1/4 in Gulfport MS on Nitto555's 11.6 @ 126mph. Now I had a horrible 60ft because on street tires. My dyno hp/tq to the wheels was 450hp/450tq @ 5800 rpm if IIRC.

[JGP023]

For comparison....You can see what is my signature on the mods I have. I ran 1/4 in Gulfport MS on Nitto555's 11.6 @ 126mph. Now I had a horrible 60ft because on street tires. My dyno hp/tq to the wheels was 450hp/450tq @ 5800 rpm if IIRC.

[JGP023]

I was in Gulfport, MS for the Hot Rod Power Tour. Lived in Texas for a while and now back in Wisconsin. Nice to have some numbers for valid benchmark. Cool. After 8 GTO's my buddies laughing because I am playing with a fuel injected car. I guess my best hope is to get under 13. Torque converter, headers, and a 3.73 gear. At least start with the torque converter. Let me ask you this. If 1 do 2800 stall will it be drive able / tame around town?

[SMWS6TA]

to be honest, I know very little about automatics. IIRC, a 2800 stall, should be good. I'd ask a good transmission shop about it first. TS&P and maybe Tick Performance can point you in the right direction on who to talk to.

[TA98]

My car with full exhaust, tune by me and 3.73s got me into the 12.90s. The following year I added a Yank PT4000 TQ convertor and went back to back to back 11.42s in the same day. Added VP110 and more timing that December to go into the 11s at Cecil. On Hoosier QTP 275/60s. The 10 bolt can hang on longer than most people think. Mine had around 185K miles at this point and the only time it was ever opened was most likely when I did the gears.

[JGP023]

My car with full exhaust, tune by me and 3.73s got me into the 12.90s. The following year I added a Yank PT4000 TQ convertor and went back to back to back 11.42s in the same day. Added VP110 and more timing that December to go into the 11s at Cecil. On Hoosier QTP 275/60s. The 10 bolt can hang on longer than most people think. Mine had around 185K miles at this point and the only time it was ever opened was most likely when I did the gears.

Much appreciate the feedback. Yes I think getting a torque converter and the 3.73s will be my best choice. I like it to look bone stock. I do have the the Nitto Drag Radials RIII on the back. Sure is good to get feedback. Impressive stats as just proves the right choices do make a big difference. Cool and thank you.

[Whamhammer]

My car with full exhaust, tune by me and 3.73s got me into the 12.90s. The following year I added a Yank PT4000 TQ convertor and went back to back to back 11.42s in the same day. Added VP110 and more timing that December to go into the 11s at Cecil. On Hoosier QTP 275/60s. The 10 bolt can hang on longer than most people think. Mine had around 185K miles at this point and the only time it was ever opened was most likely when I did the gears.

Here is my take on it:

I have had a 10 bolt GM rear in my cars for 33 years now ('86 Cutlass Supreme 307, '89 Trans Am 305 TPI automatic, 02 WS6 6M).

I had the rear give out on my '89 Trans AM 305 TPI that only had bolt-ons, 160k miles and some timing played with (and I kept up maintenance).

I've had the 02 WS6 rear for 222k, bearings replaced twice and you can read what it has in the sig'. Before 219k it was all but the engine swap and had 356/360 at the wheels. since 140k. I've had fun with it and it the rear is still there, but I don't do launches. I have funds being set aside to upgrade to a 12 bolt because I've seen plenty of evidence that it will be a "when" not an "if" it gives out.

These rears were set up for four and six cylinders, and low powered eights; with what even a bolt on and tune LS1 puts out and with tires to hook up for a launch, thats before considering that 3.73 teeth arent exactly beefy in a 7.5/7.625". I am firmly in the camp that thinks this sort of scenario falls squarely in FAFO-land.

Just remember that the tow trucks at the track tend to charge extra for a drag racers misfortune.