Crossbows

**cuervo25_1** · 02-15-2010, 07:41 PM

I am not doing this to start shit I know alot of the archers in her probably hate them,but here goes.

I am looking to get into bowhunting this year.Due to me being a leftie (shooting only) and my left shoulder being royally screwed I am looking into crossbows. I am able to draw the bow but holding it starts giving me a sharp stabbing pain right in what feels like the socket. I am looking for a decent low cost crossbow for now and save up for something better, any Ideas?

**0rion** · 02-15-2010, 09:19 PM

if your'e not physically able to draw a bow there's nothing wrong with using a crossbow. Just know that they're dangerous as hell......real dangerous. I might have a buddy with one that moved up to a bow I could ask if you want me too. I'm not sure what it was he had or even if he's wanting to sell it but I could ask him. Have you tried drawing a compound set at 40-45lbs? The legal minimum here is 40lbs and that's really nothing. Some newer bows have 80% let off so you'd only have to hold like 8lbs which ain't shit. I draw a little over 60lbs on mine with a 65% let off which is holding ~22lbs.

**cuervo25_1** · 02-17-2010, 06:41 AM

Originally Posted by 0rion

if your'e not physically able to draw a bow there's nothing wrong with using a crossbow. Just know that they're dangerous as hell......real dangerous. I might have a buddy with one that moved up to a bow I could ask if you want me too. I'm not sure what it was he had or even if he's wanting to sell it but I could ask him. Have you tried drawing a compound set at 40-45lbs? The legal minimum here is 40lbs and that's really nothing. Some newer bows have 80% let off so you'd only have to hold like 8lbs which ain't shit. I draw a little over 60lbs on mine with a 65% let off which is holding ~22lbs.

Ok after reading up on overall compoundbow setups ect I may get a compound,but still have a few questions that wasn't answered.

cams- what difference in holding in full draw do they have. do certain ones make it easier ect

split limbs vs solid limbs_ what are the pros and cons of each

and finally vertical limbs vs horazontal limbs- is there a differance in drawing them back and holding.

what would you reccomend for a bow,remember I can't afford much at the moment,and am a leftie.(friggen cross eye dominance)

**0rion** · 02-17-2010, 07:09 AM

read here at this site....it has the answers to just about all those questions. Picking a bow is like picking a cam for your car. You're going to hear different things from different people and it's mostly budget oriented. You're in a unique situation really with your drawing issues. A parrallel limb bow is going to draw smoother and have less recoil and you can get them with 80% let off but they're fairly expensive when you compare them to a D shaped bow. You're probably going to have to go to a pro shop and try out a few bows and find one you like and then find it used. The prices on bows drop like a rock when they're used.
Read here and it should answer most if not all of your questions. My buddy bought that PSE starter bow set for $399 and it's a pretty good set up really for someone beginning. It came with everything needed to hunt and was already tuned and sighted in.
http://www.huntersfriend.com/bowselection.htm

***doberman 152*** · 02-17-2010, 01:39 PM

Checkout the mathews line of bows, a little pricey but you get what you pay for.heres my mathew reezen 7.0

**cuervo25_1** · 02-19-2010, 05:38 PM

what about these bows?

http://www.beararcheryproducts.com/b...mpound/charge/

http://parkerbows.com/pb/2007/bowsel...experience=beg

Both (from my limited knowledge) seem to be what I am looking for as far as my issues. also priced in a range I can afford.

**0rion** · 02-19-2010, 05:51 PM

never had any experience with parker bows.....I own a bear. I'm not sure who's making bear bows these days but I've been pretty happy with the one I have and when I do start shopping for a new one it'll most likely be another bear. Just a good bow for the money spent IMO. The matthews, diamond, and G5 bows are incredible bows. I'm just not willing to spend that much money on one new. Take note that the $299 for that bear is the bow only....you'll have to buy all the other stuff for it to be ready to shoot.

**cuervo25_1** · 02-19-2010, 06:47 PM

yea the parker comes with a bit more with the outfitter package for only 100 bucks more. I know they are made in the good ol US OF A because their factory is not far from my hometown. When I was down for christmas I talked to my uncle and he was telling me he knows several people that works there and the benis are great and you get a new bow every year or something like that. You can bet your apron I applied there.

I figured if I am going to spend money on something like that I might as well get something that is pretty much loaded(minus the arrow shafts and broadheads) plus parkers have a lifetime warrenty against everything but the finish.

The one thing i wasn't sure about was the hostage rest or whisker biscut, I was leaning towards the hostage rest. I also heard that the best idea would be to use a drop away rest. what are your thoughts?

**0rion** · 02-19-2010, 07:52 PM

I use a shoot through rest...the only real disadvantage is your arrow can fall off of it but I've never had that issue. When I pick the bow up off the hanger I lay my pointer finger on the arrow to keep it on the rest until I'm ready to draw. It's a cheap and simple rest. The whisker biscuit and hostage rests kinda worry me for a couple of reasons. On the biscuit I wouldn't want my fletchings blowing through it all the time and what's gonna happen when you get into that sleet/rain mix and it coats your arrow and rest? Just too much opportunity for it to effect your arrows flight IMO. The hostage rest wouldn't be too bad as long as you spent the time tuning so your fletching doesn't hit it on the way out. I've never used a drop away rest but they look fairly complicated to tune. I'm all about simplicity and function. I don't want to spend a lot of time setting my bow up or soemthing I have to constantly watch to make sure nothings shifted. My bow is about as simple as it gets because to me it's a tool and I want it as efficient as I can have it. I haven't turned one screw on my bow in over 5 years I bet. The most complicated thing I have on there is my sight. I use a keller pendulum sight. It takes all the guess work out of your range. It's + or - 1" from 0-30 yards. The drawback is it sucks if your shooting from the ground which I rarely do. If I'm shooting from the ground it's because I walked up on a deer going to my stand.

**Nhra Firebird** · 02-19-2010, 07:55 PM

Ten point and you will shoot your thumb off.

**cuervo25_1** · 02-24-2010, 08:06 PM

How about these?

http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/st...003000_450-3-4

http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/te...233&hasJS=true

http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/te...233&hasJS=true

http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/te...=cat20059&rid=

the rest I will have to figure out once I get the bow, like which arrow shafts ect.

**0rion** · 02-24-2010, 08:37 PM

that's some pretty high tech stuff there. I will say to get some muzzy broadheads and call it a day. Just can't beat them. I've blown through both shoulder blades of deer with muzzy's even with my old ass bow. You couldn't give me expandable broadheads. The fact that they advertise it'll cut a 1" hole even if it doesn't open tells me something.