NLS1R - ? on A/F on a lunger

[AtLarge]

I know this is Not LS1 Related but you guys help me keep my car running so maybe you'd like to help me keep my bike running too?

With my limited knowledge here's what's happening...
I want to add a less restrictive air filter.
I want to dial in my single cylinder, 150cc motor by changing jets.
I want to add a less restrictive exhaust.
I want to add a bung to the exhaust for the o2 sensor.
I want to monitor using a multitester (voltmeter) and possibly add a capacitor across the leads to average the output for reading since it will bounce around a lot.

.1-.3 volts is lean, .7 - 1.0 volts is rich, .45 volts is ideal. Sound right?
I'm going to be in the narrow band right?
How do I pick an o2 sensor?
How far from the exhaust port do I mount it? The exhaust from manifold to muffler tip is barely 30'' so not a lot of room to work with.
Instead of the voltmeter I thought about this just in case I wanted to leave it hooked up for constant monitoring:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=390018382519

My goal is to increase the longevity of the motor and maximize the highest mpg / HP possible.

Your thhoughts or SWAGS would be appreciated.

[Frost]

use a wideband; NBs are only good around stoich.

[thearborbarber]

Sure they will tell you lean or rich but can't tell you how lean or rich. 16:1, 17:1, 18:1, 19:1, 20:1 all look the same to a narrow band sensor. Same when going rich. Wide bands are relatively inexpensive. Frost has about the best prices around.

http://www.lsxtune.com/shop/index.php/cPath/103_107

[BowTied]

No way I'd by the gauge. Not for $70, and 10 bucks to the door!

Check at Marlin P Jones first...for Digital Meters
http://www.mpja.com/products.asp?dept=52

I'm an Electrical Engineer and have put these things on anything I want to measure more time than I'd like holding a meter. These are cake, you knowing what a cap is means you are likely qualified to work with it. These things have a set of resistor surface mount pads...you short a specific pad set (solder bridge) or solder in resistor for a specific volt range.

Then MPJA or Digi-Key also has small project boxes you can put it in. Add a twisted pair cable and grommet and you are gold.
Boxes @ MPJA: http://www.mpja.com/products.asp?dept=476
If you look at Digi-Key you need to search enclosures.

Add AllElectronics to look for 2 "conductor cable". Check the previous places too...and you can get a grommet at one of these as well.

You'd have $20 to $27 plus S&H.
**I've thought about making these for a few years.

And I would add a cap (all the places I've given you have cheap ones...Digi-key has enough to fill your garage...kind of the pro's place.)

For an NB I'd be looking at buying 0.01uF to .68uF. We are talking RC (resistive-capacitance) Time Constants (TC) with this selection. The impedance of the meter is the R part here. I think these cheaper meters are around 1MOhmto 100MOhms. A .68uF w/ a 1MOhm meter gives...0.00000068 x 1M= .68, a .68TC. That is probably close to what you need, likely hold a reading about 1 second. But meters range and capacitors have tolerances of 5 to 20% and then you have O2 system response variances and output Impedance...try several caps.

Get a 0.047, 0.1, 0.22, 0.47uF these are about 15 to 35 cents each. In case you don't know you put these in parallel and the Caps add up. Put them in series and the capacitance is 1/(1/c1 + 1/c2) for 2 caps and 1/(1/c1 + 1/c2 + 1/c3) for 3 caps.


Let me know how you make out...since I've gotten my Camaro to over 32mpg highway my buddy wanted me to tweak on his Harley. (But I've now added the FAST TB and Intake and have to get my tune back. I expect 33mpg's or a little more when I get it tuned and drop the idle down.)

[AtLarge]

Thanx for the input guys and the links. That gives me something to work with.