9 inch, posi or locker

So guys i am talking to one of the guys over at moser trying to figure out what i want for my rear end. Of course i did not want a full spool. But i don't know much about anything with the rear end. I am going to put out about 900 flywheel, and it will be driven on the street alot and hopefully and some track events. Of course i won't run that much power all the time, just turn the boost down.

My question #1 is will a locker be good for some spirited driving through a course?
The guy at moser told me posi won't last that long.

He also asked if i wanted ABS, i thought the 9 inch could not have abs for the f-bods? But he asked me if the ABS was inside or out? I'm lost on that, i am going to call back tommorow, so any help would be much appreciated guys.

It's been so long since i drove a car without abs. Would that be fine for a track car, no abs?

Bump because I'd love to see the answer regarding the posi vs. locker...I've been debating the same.

Regarding the ABS setup, Moser makes a 9" rear that will work with your stock ABS and traction control.

As for driving without ABS, some people prefer it, however there is a good deal of skill involved in threshhold breaking, etc. As for running at the track (straight line I presume), you should be just fine without ABS. Personally, I prefer an ABS setup -- it gives me a greater margin for error as a driver.

If it is a track car...get the spool.

A locker provides a more positive lock of both axles versus a limited slip. But a locker can work against you in the case of normal "around town" driving. It takes more force to unlock a locker so sometimes you'll end up dragging a rear wheel through a turn at the grocery store versus a limited slip will go open differential easier. But when you're racing down the track....a locker will hold both axles longer.
Here's a link to explain it better. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Locking_differential

You can get ABS from Moser on a 9". But from what I've read on the forums it's not always working properly.....intermittent ABS operation. So you get the light on the dash reporting a problem. Has to do with lining up of the sensors on the rearend. I think most guys that go to a 9", aren't getting ABS. My opinion on the matter is I'd rather keep the ABS system...especially for street driving. I opted for a strange 12 bolt primarily to avoid this problem. Not saying a 12 bolt is better, just saying a 12 bolt is a GM product and is going on a factory GM car. I haven't had any ABS issues either. So you can order a 9" with ABS and if it becomes a PITA....then you can buy a ABS delete kit and just remove the system from the car. That way you can give it a try, but will cost you more in the end if you go the delete route. I don't know what is meant by inside or outside either.

dang even though the limited slip is a bit weaker, i really do need it, i love to demolish turns and anything other than a limited slip will not cut it for that. What do you have rich?

35 spline 9" with a locker here and absolutely love it. It quieted down after the first 50 miles and I hardley notice it at all anymore. Daily drive mine with little to no issues at all. Just takes a little different driving style.

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Originally Posted by Jays00ss

35 spline 9" with a locker here and absolutely love it. It quieted down after the first 50 miles and I hardley notice it at all anymore. Daily drive mine with little to no issues at all. Just takes a little different driving style.

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how does it handle in the corners

I'll be running a 35 spline spool next season. If it is a fair weather/race car, I'd consider a spool b/c it has less rotating mass and less moving parts than a locker. It it was a DD, limited slip diff is he way to go.

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Originally Posted by zero_proto

how does it handle in the corners

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Fine, if you like to hear a click-click-bang-bang and have the rearend do a little shuffle. Again, I like it and doesn't bother me at all. Everyone looks at your car like its a piece of crap but I just laugh. (If they only knew, if they only knew LOL)

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Originally Posted by Jays00ss

Fine, if you like to hear a click-click-bang-bang and have the rearend do a little shuffle. Again, I like it and doesn't bother me at all. Everyone looks at your car like its a piece of crap but I just laugh. (If they only knew, if they only knew LOL)

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:lol:

I have the spool, if your wanting to put down serious numbers thats the way I would go, and its not that bad to drive at all. and its the cheapest you can go

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Originally Posted by 02blkws6

I'll be running a 35 spline spool next season. If it is a fair weather/race car, I'd consider a spool b/c it has less rotating mass and less moving parts than a locker. It it was a DD, limited slip diff is he way to go.

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I drive mine all the time, but only in good weather obvisouly, and u really cant even tell a difference, just have to take the corners kinda slower then usual

U really dont need the ABS

yeah, the guy said that what i would want is a trutrac, i if i want a limited slip. I am going to be weighing the pros and cons, i really want a 9 sec car....so we shall see.

With running with that kind a hp go with whats going to keep you on the track than on the trailer, at 900hp a limited slip rear end should be out of the questions, locker should be the only way to go and if you could deal with it I would spool it buy that my 2 cents

If you are going to drag race I would definately go locker. I think what he means by abs inside or out is whether the abs ring is located inside the housing near the carrier or near the rotors. I think that a 4 channel abs would be out near the wheels. You would have 3 channel if you have traction control.

If it matters a spool will wear your rear tires faster cause it drags them around turns. It won't handle as well in the twistys either.

About the ABS...if you buy a 9" with the ABS, you you have to reuse your 10-Bolt ABS or do you get new ones with the rear?

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Originally Posted by ls1camino

About the ABS...if you buy a 9" with the ABS, you you have to reuse your 10-Bolt ABS or do you get new ones with the rear?

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i believe you have a choice..of course getting the new one will be extra money. dont quote me on it...but i believe you have a choice

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Originally Posted by zero_proto

how does it handle in the corners

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It will make it pull into the turn (kind of like oversteer) if you give it gas into a turn. Drove mine with a 9" and locker all over the place and I live on a twisty ass backroad in TN that eats up rotors in 6 months. So it can handle turns just know if you apply while into a turn it will pull into it further.

As far as handling goes it works like this from best to worst.

Torsen best but only available in 10 bolt.

Limited slip/posi

Spool

Strength is in inverse order.

sorry to revive a dead thread but im curious about the ABS stuff. Im looking at a used 9" that doesnt have ABS where as my car has the 4 channel stock. What needs to be done to get the ABS off my car? The light doesnt bother me, ill just pull the bulb. Probably noobish here but can I just not hook the ABS up? Or does that cause big problems? I dont need ABS and dont plan on using it. Im just trying to figure out how to unhook the thing.

Im taking my car here in, in a couple weeks to have it tuned for the cam, could I just have the tuner remove the ABS on the rear and then i can drive without it for a while until I put in my 9"?

thanks,

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Originally Posted by Cookie

sorry to revive a dead thread but im curious about the ABS stuff. Im looking at a used 9" that doesnt have ABS where as my car has the 4 channel stock. What needs to be done to get the ABS off my car? The light doesnt bother me, ill just pull the bulb. Probably noobish here but can I just not hook the ABS up? Or does that cause big problems? I dont need ABS and dont plan on using it. Im just trying to figure out how to unhook the thing.

Im taking my car here in, in a couple weeks to have it tuned for the cam, could I just have the tuner remove the ABS on the rear and then i can drive without it for a while until I put in my 9"?

thanks,

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When I blew my stocker a year ago and put a used 10-bolt in, it did not have ABS. I just disconnected the wires at the body and just let it be. Also, when driving without ABS, just be careful about slamming on the brakes...it took me a few weeks and a few fishtails on the highway, to get used to it.

Locker hands down for that much power

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Originally Posted by ls1camino

When I blew my stocker a year ago and put a used 10-bolt in, it did not have ABS. I just disconnected the wires at the body and just let it be. Also, when driving without ABS, just be careful about slamming on the brakes...it took me a few weeks and a few fishtails on the highway, to get used to it.

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It sounds like you have no brake proportioning because you should not be fishtailing around. Your rear brakes should never lock up before the front.

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Originally Posted by Cookie

sorry to revive a dead thread but im curious about the ABS stuff. Im looking at a used 9" that doesnt have ABS where as my car has the 4 channel stock. What needs to be done to get the ABS off my car? The light doesnt bother me, ill just pull the bulb. Probably noobish here but can I just not hook the ABS up? Or does that cause big problems? I dont need ABS and dont plan on using it. Im just trying to figure out how to unhook the thing.

Im taking my car here in, in a couple weeks to have it tuned for the cam, could I just have the tuner remove the ABS on the rear and then i can drive without it for a while until I put in my 9"?

thanks,

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You need to pull the ABS unit out of the car or you will not have the proper brake proportioning. The ABS controls this.

I eliminated my ABS with an SJM Manufacturing ABS Delete Kit.
http://www.sjmmanufacturing.com/cam_brk_ls1.html

The kit comes with a Wilwood Proportioning valve and pre-bent lines. You will need to cut the lines and connect them into a T fitting.

Call them up and ask to speak to Steve. He know his stuff! He will also tell you the easy way to shut off the ABS INOP, BRAKE, and TCS lights without breaking bulbs or rigging.

After you have the kit installed, you will need to take the car out and adjust the valve so that the rear wheels no longer lock up before the fronts.

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Originally Posted by 9t8z28

You need to pull the ABS unit out of the car or you will not have the proper brake proportioning. The ABS controls this.

I eliminated my ABS with an SJM Manufacturing ABS Delete Kit.
http://www.sjmmanufacturing.com/cam_brk_ls1.html

The kit comes with a Wilwood Proportioning valve and pre-bent lines. You will need to cut the lines and connect them into a T fitting.

Call them up and ask to speak to Steve. He know his stuff! He will also tell you the easy way to shut off the ABS INOP, BRAKE, and TCS lights without breaking bulbs or rigging.

After you have the kit installed, you will need to take the car out and adjust the valve so that the rear wheels no longer lock up before the fronts.

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hmmmmm I have a12 bolt and have the LOW TRAC lights come on often. Also one time the BRAKE and ABS INOP came on. I cant figure it out. There is a thread on Tech 8-9 pages long about this exact problem and no one has it figured out. Would buying this delete kit be a "fix" to this? ABS isnt a huge deal to me, I would rather not have it and not have these problems. It feels like my brakes are spungey when LOW TRAC light comes on. Almost like I have air in my lines. But I dont.

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Originally Posted by Hi-Po

hmmmmm I have a12 bolt and have the LOW TRAC lights come on often. Also one time the BRAKE and ABS INOP came on. I cant figure it out. There is a thread on Tech 8-9 pages long about this exact problem and no one has it figured out. Would buying this delete kit be a "fix" to this? ABS isnt a huge deal to me, I would rather not have it and not have these problems. It feels like my brakes are spungey when LOW TRAC light comes on. Almost like I have air in my lines. But I dont.

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Yes, eliminating the ABS will rid you of your problems. You either have no brake proportioning or you have a faulty module.

After you delete it, you will need to do a few easy steps to get rid of the lights. I can tell you which ones and how to do it.

Deleting the ABS actually frees up the cluttered engine bay and you drop about 16lbs. off of the nose!

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Originally Posted by 9t8z28

Yes, eliminating the ABS will rid you of your problems. You either have no brake proportioning or you have a faulty module.

After you delete it, you will need to do a few easy steps to get rid of the lights. I can tell you which ones and how to do it.

Deleting the ABS actually frees up the cluttered engine bay and you drop about 16lbs. off of the nose!

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With my Iron block, I need all the help I can get.:lol: All my problems started after I bottomed out hardcore in a shitty Michigan parking lot. How much did the final tally run you? HPtuners help with getting rid of lights? How hard was the install? PITA?? Hows driving with zero ABS anyway? I do drive alot dyring summers on streets. 12,000 miles or more.

Well, Im not popular as far as being a Ford guy (Ive got a 1965 F-100). But why not buy a Detroit locker and a Posi? Thats the way I roll. Know your going to the track? it only takes about 30 to 45 min to change out the chunk. Just my opinion, thats the way I do it. By the way, Ive never had a problem with a limited slip, and Im pushing a big ole lead sled around.

Just a thought

Edit: dang I didnt even notice the date on this thread

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Originally Posted by Hi-Po

With my Iron block, I need all the help I can get.:lol: All my problems started after I bottomed out hardcore in a shitty Michigan parking lot. How much did the final tally run you? HPtuners help with getting rid of lights? How hard was the install? PITA?? Hows driving with zero ABS anyway? I do drive alot dyring summers on streets. 12,000 miles or more.

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I drive my car year round, including light snow and heavy rain.

HPtuners will not get rid of the lights. You will need to pull some fuses and splice some wires and ground them out.

The kit cost me around $140 and is pretty easy to install. You will need to make some double flares (PRACTICE ON SPARE PARTS) and be creative to insure that it looks nice. I got a kit without the line lock since I do not really car for one right now.

How does it stop? Well, it will rip the eyeballs outta your head and I have not even begun to really adjust the regulator!

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Originally Posted by 9t8z28

I drive my car year round, including light snow and heavy rain.

HPtuners will not get rid of the lights. You will need to pull some fuses and splice some wires and ground them out.

The kit cost me around $140 and is pretty easy to install. You will need to make some double flares (PRACTICE ON SPARE PARTS) and be creative to insure that it looks nice. I got a kit without the line lock since I do not really car for one right now.

How does it stop? Well, it will rip the eyeballs outta your head and I have not even begun to really adjust the regulator!

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Iill have to check into this. I havent done a double flare is probably 5 years. If I was going to do this, it would probably be a good time to do a line lock as well right? I swear, the money never stops pouring out.

But thanks for the info, Ill probably be hitting you up for the other info.

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Originally Posted by Hi-Po

Iill have to check into this. I havent done a double flare is probably 5 years. If I was going to do this, it would probably be a good time to do a line lock as well right? I swear, the money never stops pouring out.

But thanks for the info, Ill probably be hitting you up for the other info.

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No problem.

Make sure you have a good quality flare tool.

I am going to go out right now and get a pic of it and post it.

Some ditch the braided line. I chose to keep em'. I plan on cleaning it up an bit but for now I am tire of working on my brakes!

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o...8/101_0265.jpg
http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o...8/101_0261.jpg

hmmmm, wow. SO its just deleteing the block, and adding those T's and that regulator? Did you just do this recently?

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Originally Posted by Hi-Po

hmmmm, wow. SO its just deleteing the block, and adding those T's and that regulator? Did you just do this recently?

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Yes, you just delete the block and install the T's. Then take the car out and romp on the brakes.

I installed this a few months ago.

Hours to complete roughly? Sounds like making the lines would consume most of the time.

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Originally Posted by Hi-Po

Hours to complete roughly? Sounds like making the lines would consume most of the time.

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Probably about 3-4 hours and then you will obviously need to bleed the entire system.

You are going to need lots of rags to soak up the brake fluid that is gonna pour outta the block!

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Originally Posted by 9t8z28

Probably about 3-4 hours and then you will obviously need to bleed the entire system.

You are going to need lots of rags to soak up the brake fluid that is gonna pour outta the block!

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ah, thats gotta be so fun. Nothing like a chit load of paint eating fluid pouring everywhere. Its def on my things to do. Because I cant figure this problem out. I removed ALL ground and cleaned them and check all my wiring and sensors for being plugged in.

thanks for the info guys. lookin into the one with the line lock, always wanted that haha. pray for my 10 bolt until i get that 9" in! :xfingers:

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Originally Posted by 9t8z28

Some ditch the braided line. I chose to keep em'. I plan on cleaning it up an bit but for now I am tire of working on my brakes!

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looks awesome..i hate that block..looks bad and just takes up room :(