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Soon as i can get another DD i am goin to pull the old Z in for some TLC just wonderin what you guys thought ...rebuild the 346 but install beefed up inners you know...build it for spray and slap some nice heads and a nice cam in it or how much more would i be lookin at to stroke it out to a 383 or larger? lookin for some info here guys and actualy not even sure where to begin research lol i would like to brake into the 450 or higher range on the horses :confused:
450 with spray is quite easy with a stock LS1. No need for stroker kits etc if your only goal is 450 with some spray. It all depends on what you are willing to pay and how far you want to go. With a stroker 450 N/A is about average power but cost a bit more. An LS1 can only go up to a 383 safely anything bigger and you need a different block such as an LS2/3/x or LQ4/9 6.0
well the 450 range would be the low end i know the stock ls1 can handle a ton of spray but i want somethin that will hold up and give me a lil more room to add to later down the road (i gues i should have included that with the first post) . what kind of cost would i be lookin at to go to the 383.
The rotating assembly is anywhere from 1500 to 1800. Then of course you need to include gaskets, new head bolts, machining/balancing etc. Roughly for just a 383 build on an exhisting LS1 block around 2500 realistically. That is not including any other parts of course such as cam heads tune etc.
now if i did the 383 build would that be considered stage 3 or the ls2 ported heads?:Popcorn: thanks for your help so far lol
isnt the 383 the 6.0 ls2?
The LS2/LQ9 blocks are 364's.Quote:
Originally Posted by txz28
Personally, if you don't want more than 450 or so RWHP on the spray, I would rebuild the stock block. Cheapest option for a forged motor.
Don't stroke the stock block...if you do stroker, you will want a stroked LS2/LQ9.
well i shouldnt have put that 450 number in there lol i would like at least 450 more the better but i dont want so much to where i cant drive the damn thing lol
Well a mild H/C 347 can make 425RWHP....plus spray. Can use stock block and stock crank.
Mild 402 can make 475RWHP pretty easy. Requires new block and new crank.
would the 6.0 "truck block" work ?
That is the LQ9.Quote:
Originally Posted by txz28
And yes, it will work.
I am using that block.
that is my next blcok if i kill my LS6... i haven't yet *knock on wood*Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Luos
ok what kind of heads would go with that block is that what slp and other speed shops call the l92 heads?Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Luos
I am running Patriot Stage III LS6 heads on mine.
how driveable(is that even a word) lol is your t/a
Once warmed up...drives great. Still working on the cold start tune.
Wouldn't want to daily drive it, but it isn't a pain in the ass to drive.
Sorry for the partial thread jack, but what's the difference between the LS2 and the LQ9 as far as performance goes?
The blocks without internals??Quote:
Originally Posted by UKXK189
The difference is 80 pounds. LS2 is aluminum, LQ9 is iron.
no i wouldnt drive it every day just when the weather is nice and on the weekends to meets and what not say 3 times a week like 200 miles or so a week or is that pushin it ? and on the warm up you talkin about durin winter up there or just normal first thing in the mornin start ups?Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Luos
Ditch the stock block and get yourself either an aluminum or iron block 402/408.
Luos has the aluminum 402, I've got an iron 408. IMO if you're going to spray a decent sized shot- go with an iron block. I dunno...Louis and I may differe in opinions about this.
My thought has always been if you are going to spend the money to get forged internals you might as well add the cost of the block in as well. The cost difference is not that much (depending on how much machine work costs, and compared to other things you could do), and you will get a modest boost in power.
Who is Louis? :lol:Quote:
Originally Posted by cam02ss
I have an iron 402. Originally built for boost. When I ordered it, it saved $300 to not bore it to 408. Plus, I liked the idea of a square motor.
Ha yea my bad. For some reason I thought you had the aluminum block. Who is that?Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Luos
hey txz28, Im actually going to use my ls1 block and stroke it to a 383 forged of course I have called so many shops around and pretty much depending on how much you are wanting to spend you are looking at $1200 take out and put back in (RR) your engine, $1000-$1500 to hone your block, $1500-$3600 on your stroker kit eagle, callies, lunati etc and depending on the shop $1000 - $2500 labor and also depending on the shop some will charge you min. to no labor if you have the heads, cam and anything else that you will be upgrading while you have everything apart.. You will save alot of money if you do it yourself...
that was my plan not only to save money but to learn more about it and to have a lil more pride you know anyone can pay and have a car built but not many can say they did everything but the machine work you know thanks for the numbers. I was talkin with my dad the other night about it and he reminded me that we have a family friend that builds motors for a living so I might be able to get the hook up on the machine work!!! I SURE HOPE SO lol i'm a poor ass white boy lol
GO BIG! :flex:
OR GO HOME right lolQuote:
Originally Posted by KING Z28 HAWK
No just go BIG :flex: lolQuote:
Originally Posted by txz28
well i am tryin to save up to buy a pair of lg9 blocks i dont want to storke the ls1 stock block out to a 427 bc how then everything gets but i think i just might storke out the lq9 block out to 427
The best all around deal that I have found on a rotating assembly is Compstar. Callies crank and rods, Mahle pistons (3.905 bore) w/rings, ARP 2000 rod bolts, balanced and ready for install for about $2400. This will more than likey be the route that I go. I have heard way too many bad things about Eagle cranks breaking.
Yea eagle is not where you want to go.
For damn sure you wouldnt want a scat crank either.