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Im i ready for a fast 90mm intake and throttle body? I have a 98 A4 with 3.73 OBX headers, slp loudmouth, R/A, slp lid and bellows, eibach sportlines, bilsteen hd shocks, 35mm front, 25mm rear sways. None of this is installed. Should i get a new maf too. And is it ready to tune?
I dont see how your ready for a FAST 90/90. You need heads/cam or a big cam to see the benefits from it. Fast 90 on stock heads/cam is a waste of $$.
unless your going to cam the car and do heads down the road, your wasteing money.
leave the maf alone
Putting a FAST intake on a stock heads/cam LS1 will not give you any more benefits than a LS6 intake would on stock heads/cam. You need to have a good size cam to see any benefits from the FAST intake.
I wouldn't mess with the MAF either.
Tuning is never a BAD idea, its just a matter of weighing the cost efficiency of it. Some people can afford to do a tune with bolt ons and will see some benefits, but for others, its not really cost efficient to do a tune with bolt ons.
I learned my leason don't get a maf enless your ready to tune I did and it started making my car bogg down put stock maf back on works fine going to clean it tn and take my car to the track for the first time tm wish me luck guys 98 ss camaro 5.7 m6 3.73 with slp lm1, slp cold air set up with lid and smooth bellows what do you think I should be around I ordered the pro 5.0 but won't get till the 8th I'm kinda pissed about that one but oh well.Quote:
Originally Posted by Y2KPewterSS
Thank you all. I guess i need to buy heads and a cam. Is it worth the money to go over ls6 heads, how much better are they than ls1 heads? Damn this is getting expensive.
What are your goals for the car? Doesn't sound like you've thought about it much. Just throwing parts and money at it is pointless. Do reasearch. I've known guys that put head and cam kits on there car before vitals like a rear and clutch. They go to the track and get there asses handed to em by guys with way less mods.Quote:
Originally Posted by 13nickels
I"ve done a lot of research and I have an idea of where im going with it. I just wasnt ready to buy heads or break into the internals yet. Its got 90k miles on it. I wanted to wait until i pulled the motor before getting to deep. Just wanted to know where to stop with the bolt ons. BTW i have a A4 and already have 3.73s so no clutch, maybe I'll put a small converter on it. I dont want a mean ass drag car, just a powerful, well tuned, great handling car.Quote:
Originally Posted by INMY01TA
Okay. Prolly a good idea to wait on the internals then. Convertor would be one of my first mods then. They really make the car come alive.Quote:
Originally Posted by 13nickels
Hey man have you ever put a converter on your car or driven one with one on it, question is how is daily driving affected, will it accelerate normally in stop and go traffic. I have this idea that its like dumping the clutch at 3000 rpms everytime. I know thats not the case but ive never tested one.Quote:
Originally Posted by INMY01TA
I have a 3800 stall in my car with a few bolt ons. It drives perfectly normal and accelerates fine. Before I had a few bolt ons, the throttle was a little spongy, but not that bad.Quote:
Originally Posted by 13nickels
Thanks good info, i think ill go with a 3000 stall, anything over that I feel would be overkill. Ive never pulled the tranny on one of these either, but I have on many others, is there anything i should be aware of before i drop the tranny.Quote:
Originally Posted by Y2KPewterSS
I really recommend a 3500 for an LS1. Most people that get anything less than 3400 usually regret it.Quote:
Originally Posted by 13nickels
I do some SCCA racing, will the stall effect the track performanceQuote:
Originally Posted by Y2KPewterSS
As mentioned...Unless you plan on upgrading the cam to something HUGE and adding heads on top of it...go with the LS6 intake. You can find a used one for $350 maximum.
Stock MAF > any other MAF
I have always read you want at least a 3,600 stall.
Hey brother nice to finally talk to you. I was completely satisfied with my car until i saw your vid on youtube. Wow what nice car man. and also the reason i joined this forum. I plan on digging into the engine in a few months, cam heads, rockers, maybe even pull the motor and rebuild it with some goodies. Rebuild the tranny.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Luos
I think I'll wait to buy a intake until i do that, Gotta save some money first. My goal is to have at least 400hp at the wheel. With these mods do you think i'll be close?
I've always heard the same...at the very least a 3,600 stall; as a lower stall doesn't improve performance nearly as noticeably & those who have purchased lower stalls regret doing so...could be wrong, any opinions?Quote:
Originally Posted by INMY01TA
i have a 3000 rpm converter. its not like your dumping a clutch at all.Quote:
Originally Posted by 13nickels
matter of fact if a non gear head was to drive my car, they wouldnt even know i have a stall.
daily driving wont be affected much at all unless you mash the gas from stop light to stop light.
i shaved .6 tenths of e.t from my 3000 rpm stall.Quote:
Originally Posted by jujofields
anybody who says you wont get decent gains from anything lower than 3500 is full of shit.
now i wouldnt get anything lower than 3000 though.
heres a problem you dont hear alot of people talking about and thats the bigger the stall, the harder to hook .
so its like flashing a stock coverter or do you have to hold the brake to get the rpms up. How does it work. Does it stay tight over time...i need to reserch this more. Interesting stuff. .6 tenths is pretty good, i like the sound of that. Do you do any scca racing, i dont want a strict drag car, i like the twisties too. Thanks for all the info BTW.Quote:
Originally Posted by nhraformula
you can break torque it to the rpm or just stab it of the line.
an aftermarket stall isnt just for off the line. it help with shift extension also.
youll always be in the powerband much faster with a stall.
i dont do scaa racing, but with corners youll be in lower RPMs and the converter will help you lots there.
lets say your getting out of a turn and your engine rpm is 2000 and your in second gear, you stab the gas, the car will downshift into 1st and climb instantly to whatever stall speed rpm you have.
hey what is the stock stall set at? I was looking at installing one, but am just like 13 nickles, i have never drivin a stalled car and was worried about the daily drivablity.
1800 rpmQuote:
Originally Posted by mark21742
Ahh, I get it. That clears it up. Thank you. Looks like im buying a stall. Can you recomend i company that sells a good one. Also my car is almost at 100k prolly time to rebuild and install a shift kit.Quote:
Originally Posted by nhraformula
well it might not need to be rebuild, but a shift kit always helps. I rebuilt mine because I screwed up a bunch of clutches in it (hot rodding the first couple weeks I had it)Quote:
Originally Posted by 13nickels
as for the converter go to fuddle racing. they are a sponsor on here. anything from them is great. I plan on getting their 3000 when everything settles down and I have cash again
Hey ya'll have helped again, don't worry 13nickles, I think a was just as much if not more in the dark as you on the whole torque converter thing (and I'm sure there are alot more out there like us) so... headers and some other minor bolt on mods, you would recomend about 3500 stall right?
With a new intake, heads, and cam you can easily get 400 rwhp with no problem. It's just that you need a bunch of supporting mods that will add up.Quote:
Originally Posted by 13nickels
Just don't get too caught up in peak HP numbers.
Might make 385RWHP but have such a powerband it beats 420RWHP cars.
Ex. a cam that has a large RPM power band. Might not peak as high of hp #'s but better low and mid range power.
Mid-sized cams.
224/224 to 232/232 around 590 to 600 lift.
Whoops. Just read your post again. Mis-understood it. I thought you were looking for examples.
But yeah, longer powerbands are good.
Make great DD cams too.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Luos
Thanks again to you all, ill write more later, i have to fly again today.
i have used tci brand stalls for years in all my cars.Quote:
Originally Posted by 13nickels
currently i have a streetfighter 3000.
when doing a stall, get a shift kit, oil cooler and converter tune.
Don't you mean a tranny cooler? And does the shift kit make that big of a difference.
yeah he meant tranny cooler. the shift kit will take a ton out of your shift time. it's instant time off your quarter.Quote:
Originally Posted by UTVols98
I was thinking of getting one when I bought my stall, but didn't think it would make that big of a difference. Maybe I should have gotten it now. It works by letting you downshift, right?
not really. there are ones that do that, but the kit that i think is nice is the transgo and all it does it makes the shifts much more crisp and quick. it definitely helps your times. you can do the shift kit in 4-5 hours normally. less if you have messed with a tranny before. I makes a few changes to it. it's definitely nice thoughQuote:
Originally Posted by UTVols98
My transmission has been having problems shifting at high rpm's. It sticks at 5300-5500 for a second and then shifts. Will the shift kit correct that?
if it's doing that try changing the transmission fluid. If you have a worn transmission a shift kit can damage it. so try the tranny fluid before you do a shift kit. mine was slipping at high rpm's and not shifting right and turns out I had messed a few clutches up pretty bad. oh well. I did a stage 2 rebuild and it does better than any stock one with a shift kit wouldQuote:
Originally Posted by UTVols98
I'll definitely try new tranny fluid. It's been about 25k since I changed it anyways. I've been a little worried since the car has over 100k on it, but I hardly ever drive it hard. Really only does it when I'm manually shifting so when I race I usually leave it in O/D and it only does it from time to time then. Thanks for the tip.
i have a a4 with a 408 strocker motor. of course large cam and trick flow heads. i am running a 3200 stall and it works just great. every day driving is fine. its not like dumping the clutch at 3200.. its a flash stall speed of 3200. its different buddy. when you put your convereter in the car do a tranny cooler. alot of people may say its not needed. .just put one on.
also go with the fast 90 setup. it'll save you time and money down the road. as in my case. i go the motor and i'm running a polished holley lingenfelter manifold and stock throttle body.. also i have short tubes with electric cutouts. now i regret not buying the fast 90 before hand.. just some advice.