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I gots a question, Ok Ive been driving manual cars forever but Ive never raced them. My new TA is a 6spd and I may be doin a little racing this summer. So my question is this, when powershifting do you keep your foot on the gas and still push the clutch in when its time to shift, or do you even use the clutch at all?
It depends on the car for me. I found that a stock clutch setup on the 4th gens won't hold if I keep the gas pedal on the floor.
just practice and you can get just as quick and still let the throttle off,its better for the clutch,my 2 cents
+1 just lift the throttle a little bitQuote:
Originally Posted by dpinson
depends on the trans...Quote:
Originally Posted by goose_von
t56... you'll have to clutch it with the gas down...
i do NOT recommend doing this... learn to shift faster... buy a short throw shifter also...
and do NOT dump teh clutcha t the track at more tahn 3,500 rpm with a stock car... read up on how to drag race, what is required , and etiquette...
also research and find at what rpm you should be shifting at... and find a good spot to practice launches...
Well I have a cam, Long tubes, and 3" exhaust. what would be the safest rpm range to dump the clutch at without breaking anything?
Thanks
Do you have something other than the stock rearend?? Otherwise I wouldn't suggest dumping the clutch much at all. I broke mine twice with stock street tires leaving at about 3,000 rpms or so, on a good track.
+1 on that^ without a rearend your screwed on the launchingQuote:
Originally Posted by Firebirdjones
Naw my rearend broke awhile back and I had a rebuild rear end put back in but its still a 10 bolt. So dumping the clutch at say 1500 or 2000 rpm's would also be a bad idea?
so is it a stock rebuild, or performance parts included?
if stock, i think you're safe at 1500-2000 rpms. when you blow his rear end, get a 9" and drop it off the rev limiter if you want, cause your trans is gonna blow before the rear end does.
honestly no one can tell you what your stock can hold... you can find people that will tell you different time ranges... i have recently on a veryyyy nice and sticky track... dropped my m6 at 3600 rpms on dr's and dead stuck the launch.. rear end i fine.. no whine... nothing... i have done about 10 passes like that... best launch is a 1.93 60' completely stock susp/rearend/gears... nothing done back there... not saying dont listen to them... imsaying everyones stock rears are diff...
We'll when the shop foreman at the dealership called he said they were sending me a rebuild, reconditioned 10 bolt rear end. But thats all he told me about what I was getting cause thats what the warrenty people would pay for.
werd... you got lucky they replaced it at allQuote:
Originally Posted by goose_von
Yea, when I bought the car it came with a 3 month warrenty, and the rear end went down in the second month.
It depends on your thought process. If you go about racing worrying about breaking things all the time, then it might not be the best thing to be doing at this time.Quote:
Originally Posted by goose_von
Babying the car at the track to bandaid something else is only short changing yourself and the potential of the car.
Still fun to race none the less,,,but it would be more real if you kept in the back of your mind that at anytime the weaklink can show it's ugly head,,,so nothing unexpected happens,,,make sense???? Extra money aside for repairs just in case isn't a bad idea.
Bringing a tailor along isn't bad either. Just my thoughts on it.
I've been able to get a 1.89 60 footer. That was on street radials, stock rear, and dumping around 3000 or so. I've had my stock rear rebuilt once already, but I do have a 12 bolt on the way. Each stock rear will break at different power numbers. Some on stock power, some over 400, it's hard to say. I would say 1500-2000 would be ok for stock rear, as that's where I leave from but who knows...
Two schools of thought here. First is that you need to "break (stop) the torque" to shift the tranny. This can be done two different ways, the first by lifting the gas pedal to let the mill "float", then shift the tranny WITHOUT the clutch. Takes practice and if you "miss" the shift $bad$ things happen. Not recommended.
Another way is to lift the throttle and shift while using the clutch. With practice you can do this very quickly. $Easier$ on the driveline. Safer too. Just like normal upshifting, but done very very quickly. Probably the best techinque. Takes lots of practice. You are drag racing with all that implies.
The other school of thought is that just keep the pedal on the metal and "rip" the shifter WHILE using the clutch. Problem is again if you miss the shift the mill will go against the governor if you have one. If you don't, $ouch$ again. Abusive on the entire driveline. Not recommended.
The last way to shift is to simply ram the shifter thru while standing on the gas without using the clutch. NOT RECOMMENDED AT ALL! Some drag manuals can be shifted this way, but all that energy has to go somewhere, usually dumped into the slicks that break traction. Ouch. Your choice. How $rich$ are you? Gots a good scattershield? Ever see a clutch let go? AUUGHHHH!
Hope this helps. I have never shifter the 6 speed Tremec T56, but have ridden in a 'Vet that had one. Was not impressed. Somewhat sloppy linkage. I for one would back off the gas, use the clutch and just practice, practice, practice getting VERY VERY fast. Easier on the equipment. Good luck.
put dog rings in your tranny, and bang your gears without fear of ruining the trans, clutch, or rear end. it provides a bigger space, so it allows gears to slide in with out grinding as easily.
Quote:
Originally Posted by HB of CJ
What linkage? they are hydraulic...
what kind of cam... take a look at your dyno sheet... that should tell you where the levels pick up the best... you want to shift so you start in thoes rpms...Quote:
Originally Posted by goose_von
The cam was already in it when I bought the car so I really dont know the size, and Im waiting till May to get it tuned, course I wont be driving it till then anyhow.
This requires way too much time to accomplish.Quote:
Originally Posted by HB of CJ
This does indeed save parts, but won't get you the absolute best ET. It comes down to what that last hundreth of a second of ET is worth to you.Quote:
Another way is to lift the throttle and shift while using the clutch. With practice you can do this very quickly. $Easier$ on the driveline. Safer too. Just like normal upshifting, but done very very quickly. Probably the best techinque. Takes lots of practice. You are drag racing with all that implies.
This is the definition of "power shifting" with a street-style manual transmission. It will result in the best ET (assuming good traction on gear shifts), but is also extremely hard on the driveline.Quote:
The other school of thought is that just keep the pedal on the metal and "rip" the shifter WHILE using the clutch. Problem is again if you miss the shift the mill will go against the governor if you have one. If you don't, $ouch$ again. Abusive on the entire driveline. Not recommended.
Bottom line: If you want to go fast, you can't be afraid to break it.
This is not possible with a street-style syncronized tranny. It just can't be done.Quote:
The last way to shift is to simply ram the shifter thru while standing on the gas without using the clutch. NOT RECOMMENDED AT ALL! Some drag manuals can be shifted this way, but all that energy has to go somewhere, usually dumped into the slicks that break traction. Ouch. Your choice. How $rich$ are you? Gots a good scattershield? Ever see a clutch let go? AUUGHHHH!
Like nitrorustler41 said....dog-ring trannies are the hot ticket for super-fast powershifts. BUT - they are not much fun to drive on the street. I put up with it, but most folks wouldn't. :)