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This is for a: 2001, T/A, WS6, M6, SLP Cold-Air Air-Box Lid, Throttle Body p&p, ORY, Magnaflow C/B exhaust, UMI Subframe Connector, UMI Tunnel Brace Mounted Torque Arm w/DSL AND possible TSP 228R bumpstick.
Any test proven results regarding headers? I'm considering QTP or Hooker. (Performance first...$$$ second.) Anybody???????
Kooks headers. Check out this thread http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread...ighlight=kooks
all headers will produce similar hp.....wut you want is stainless steal....kooks, QTP, ARH all produce within 1-2 HP of each other and make sure to get them tuned after
Ive got the American Racing Headers and i couldn't be more happy.
The Quality, Fitment and Looks are unbeatable IMO.
Price is a little steep but i got a killer deal on mine,
I would stick with what basballny2 said, you want stainless steel and you want the tuned length.
Ditto that.Quote:
Originally Posted by basballny2
Are Kooks headers stainless steel?
What gage are they?
OBX...love then and they are stainless steel!
ya kooks, QTP and ARH are all stainless
I know it's a long shot but, does the Kooks header/ORY combo connect painlessly to the Magnaflow C/B, #16723?
depends on what you want to do.....do u want to do true duals? if so the magnaflow becomes obsolete
If you have a Cam and or Heads planned in the future for your car and want to try to milk every bit of hp & tq ..
Then I would go QTP, Kooks ect or any header that has a good merge collector at the end..
Which headers like Hooker and Pacesetter dont have..
Modded with a cam and heads those HVMC's will net you more Hp than just 2 at peak and especially under the curve
while improving your peak torque..
Here is a dyno graph they both are the same car except once with Pacesetter headers..
Then a second time with QTP Headers with High velocity Merge collectors..
Not only are the peak numbers up more than just 2
But look at the graph where 3200 rpms is highlighted..
The QTP pull 16hp and 26 ft lbs higher at 3200 rpms over the Pacesetters..
http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/6219/88578204zp4.jpg
Keep in mind though this is a Head/cam car and all cars will dyno different..
But header vs header the proof is there..
header vs header the hp isnt 26
yeh sorry typo but it is 26ft lbs and 16+ hp at 3200 rpms
At peak it is 11hp & 7 ft lbs
ur dyno sheet or w.e image u have isnt working....and i STILL dont believe QTP headers and headers alone will produce 26 ft.lbs. of tq. and 16 hp over pacesetters
well how do I show images on here so you can see the graph your self??
Looks like 9hp at peak. 468(QTP) and 459(Pacesetter)...I can see the graph btwQuote:
Originally Posted by NJ 2002 Z28
cool, it doesnt show on my end still
My own car had similar gains just going from edelbrocks to QTP's
thats not just because of headers tho....im sure the car had work done to it.....heads, cam etc. if so the reason your seeing the increased in hp is because the 1-2 hp is being magnified by the larger amts. of air......header for header tho its only 1-2 hp
Quote:
Originally Posted by basballny2
If you read the bottom of my post it stated Head/cam car as was why I stated if that is his future plans
then any header with a good merge collector like QTP, Kooks and ARH would be the best choice..
tru tru just re-read it.....QTP Kooks or ARH are the way to go
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyler_LS1
how much $$$ for headers install ?
Quote:
Originally Posted by SpeedAddict38
Install was about $300 with plugs and wires done also
Install was done by KrazyKoncepts here locally, very good shop, quality install and people that really know there stuff!
They will be Dyno tuning it also, I will get some videos of that when the time comes.
Is there a bolt-on form of 'true duals' in stainless steel for my year and make? As of yet, I haven't seen any. Seems as though you have to vist a mod or exhaust shop and have them built onto your car; made of mild steel.Quote:
Originally Posted by basballny2
I'll end up doing aluminumized steel when I go dual. Doesn't last like stainless, but is less than half the price and last longer than just steel.
if you go to a shop they can make them out of stainless steel and to my knowledge i dont believe they have a true dual system out there right now but there are talks of one coming outQuote:
Originally Posted by midi_2001
My understanding is yes. I've done a lot of header research and I was going to go with QTPs until I read the horror stories about their crappy y pipes. I'm going KOOKs I hear their headers and y pipes fit flawlessly. It's worth the extra $$$ IMO.Quote:
Originally Posted by midi_2001
if money is the issue.....dont jump because u have enough now for headers....do it right the first time....it might take more time but wait until u have the money for stainless
Believe me...cash is far from the issue. Doing it right...the first time, is the issue. (Of course, dollar spent per HP is still another issue.) With other vehicles past, I've done the mild steel, the aluminized; the junk. Works great for a while and then you're throwing more cash at the cause, more labor; I've been there...done it...done with it. I've been away from the 'street performance' scene for quite some time. Four-wheel'n has been my passion now for several years. I've become bored with the dirt n mud (additionally, my new garage is only so high...lol). I now have this T/A and still want to do as much as I can on my own.
That prompts all of my inquires and all input is greatly appreciated.
With all of the input and all of the other POSTS I'm starting to lean toward Kooks.
Kooks gets my vote. I just wish a shop in my area could bend stainless. That requires more expensive equipment to do and no one around here can do it.
if money is no issue decide whether you want true duals or a y-pipe, to have custom true duals done it will run you a little bit but worth it in the long run, whatever you do go with stainless steel as stated before kooks or ARH are the top 2 and QTP isnt far behind.....and once i get the money, because money IS an issue for me haha im going with ARH true duals, and you might want to look into a nice set of subframes (just a side note) good luck with your choice though
Do diamond SFC's get in the way of TD's? I've hear stuff both ways and want to know the real deal.
So what about pacesetters Ceramic coated headers? I woulnt expect them to compare well to a brand like QTP, being about half the price. Ive heard they fit good but do they hold up well over time?
nope after about 2 years youll find yourself replacing them
Hmmm...ARH has a nice product as well.
yes they do....as i posted before once i get the money im going with ARH true duals
I was thinking about a set of QTP. What have you heard about their ORY pipes? Can I use another manufacturer's ORY on a set of QTP?Quote:
Originally Posted by rc74racer
Everything I've read said they fit like crap and are not worth the money. No you can not use another manufucturer's ORY. It's why I decided to go with kooks.Quote:
Originally Posted by aeroengineer
Thats a shame. I was headed towards the QTP until I heard that. Will definitely consider the Hooker SS model before I plop down the doe for Kooks. No doubt they are the best, but I have a hard time coming off 1200 for a set with ORY.Quote:
Originally Posted by rc74racer
well whatever you decide to go with .... get your headers tuned to get max hp/tq out of them
dont think they are stainless but here they areQuote:
Originally Posted by midi_2001
http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/item...d=196&catid=56
I was headed that way myself until I researched the threads on ls1tech. I just think the extra 300 or 400 is well worth it for a quality product that fits like is should without clearance issues. How much are the hookers?Quote:
Originally Posted by aeroengineer
IIRC ~$750 for the headers and all I hear is the Hooker super comps fit really well and provide good ground clearance for lowered cars. I didn't think Hooker made a SS version of their super comp (steel & coated only) until I saw HP TV install a set on their "LS Gun" car. I finally found them at Thunder Racing.Quote:
Originally Posted by rc74racer
Honestly, I don't think the flow delta between the Hookers and the Kooks can be all that much....would be different if one was a Tri-Y design versus a single merge collector. If flow is not that different then it comes down to quality...welds, material, flange thickness, etc. I would like to know if Hooker uses 304 or 409 SS? I hear 409 will discolor more than the typical bluing experienced with 304.
750 is not that much cheaper then kooks. If they were 500 i'd think about it but for a little more you can kooks and I know those are first rate headers with zero fit issues.
Has anyone personally. . .worked with TSP? Positive/negative comments??Quote:
Originally Posted by firemedic0135
I haven't worked with them, but I'll tell you their y pipes are shitty!Quote:
Originally Posted by midi_2001
I do have their true dual setup on my car now though, and love it! Great clearance, great flow, great sound.
True duals...mild steel? Do you know if there is a stainless option on the X-pipe? How much ground clearance did you loose?Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamauxx
FLP's are a pretty good setup - its a 1 3/4 longtube, 3in ypipe, cats, cat bypass pipes setup - back in the old ls1.com days these were the best there was- I think they were bought out by dynatech.. i could be wrong though
I see you are from NY. Where did u go for tuning? What did it cost? Thanks!
Quote:
Originally Posted by 97ramair
Try EAST SIDE PERFORMANCE in Connecticut most people in North Jersey even drive that far to get their cars done there too...
The problem with the QTP Y-pipe fitment is the Unexperienced/ Impatient people installing them or trying to anyways when in reality they cant even get a SLP lid to fit..
The Y-pipe fits great if you take the time to line it all up before clamping it together, it just hangs down a little lower than the stock Y-pipe ..
The Kooks Y-pipe and Mufflex Y-pipes fit also
Vett Doctors, however not sure they'll tune a LT1