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I am building a 99 ls1 383 stroker with Magic Stick V.4 239/242, .649"/.609" camshaft. I wanted to know what horsepower to expect if i ran stock heads intake etc. And what you think I would run if I go a diffrent route same camshaft with Patriot Performance GM LS Series Stage II Cylinder Heads 67cc Chamber, 213cc Intake Runner, and LS6 intake. Thanks, I just wanted to wiegh the diffrence.:toetap:
Im fixing to start on my stroker too, would like to know the numbers you get?
I will definatley hit you up. I just yesterday talked to a machine shop man up here in colorado and he said he built a 98 ls1 383 stroker and ran a comp cam, fast 90/90, 5.3 ls1 heads(which he told me to up the compression) and dynoed 350 hp and 390 trq. so i kinda was skeptical, and asked him if he dyno tuned the car and he said he hasnt dyno tuned it yet. :coffee:Quote:
Originally Posted by Sleeper101
I have heard from the machine shop I use and some family members, If you change the cam you absolutly have to reprogram the ECU, It will not run on a cam bigger than stock, also the program is 400$ plus tuning. So thats why im sticking to stock cam till I have the funds to upgrade the ecu,cam and heads all at the same time.
My machine shop said they can built a 383 stroker, with a good cam upgrade, stock heads worked, ported/ polished, titanium springs,retainer, headers, just basic bolt on's and it dynoed at 365WHP tuned and got 26mpg.
SO Its not going to be hard getting the power, but getting the ECU to like the power will be the hard part. Damn electronics are expensive!!!!!
Im not woried about the ecu i have all of that covered. I have a progammer out here i use and he said it wouldnt be a problem. But yea i knew for sure it would need some computer mods. But with all good mods tuning is needed.:fire:Quote:
Originally Posted by Sleeper101
Hmmm. I don't know how well those heads flow, so I'm not sure what to tell you. 350/390 is horrible...I would stay away from that shop unless they have a valid explanation.
I'm running a 244 cam in my 383 with some TEA 5.3s. I just got a new SD tune and am at 455rwhp/455rwtq, but we think the LS6 intake is costing some HP up top. I'd bet a ported FAST 90 would be worth 30rwhp. My combo is pretty mild, all things considered. Some 383s are well above 500rwhp.
thanks for the reply i appreciate the info, i am out here in colorado so we do struggle a little bit with the alltitude from time to time.lol. it sucks but what can you do? I do know people that have told me they have made easy 400 plus horsepower with the devils. And that those numbers were low to them also. I have heard great things about the fast 90 and many people out here at bandimere speedway are using them. the numbers you have mentioned would be plenty fine with me. I would definatley be happy with those numbers in my f body:zoom:Quote:
Originally Posted by danziger
The setup were building is a 383 stroker bottom end and the top end, intake, heads, cam etc will have to stay stock due to working on a tight budget, 2000$, main goal is to just get the car back on the street and do bolt on's later. Current motor spun all the main bearings so it trashed the crank.
I would be tickled pink to get anything over 350WHP with the stroker and stock setup but more than likely not going to happen.
Thats awesome man, good numbers.Quote:
I'm running a 244 cam in my 383 with some TEA 5.3s. I just got a new SD tune and am at 455rwhp/455rwtq, but we think the LS6 intake is costing some HP up top. I'd bet a ported FAST 90 would be worth 30rwhp. My combo is pretty mild, all things considered. Some 383s are well above 500rwhp.
I hope to be making that someday.
Is he here in Greeley? I might be looking for someone to build up my block when I tear down my car this winter.Quote:
Originally Posted by 99Ls1fever
Yea, I live up here in greeley. I also work down at bandimere dor the past three years. So, i think and I guess the more I am down there the more i meet people who are the heads of our sponser companies. And I meet Jack Bowers Who is the head sponser for our racing engines. And, I took a day up off to go up to Ft.Collins to his shop which is bowers racing engines. And his man focus is camaro's and LS1, LT1, and while i was there he had three ls1 strokers he was building, and i got a chance to talk with him. Before this I called around to see how much some one would charge me to put a set of eibach drop springs on my camaro. Every one was over $125 an hour for shop rates. I called Jack and his shop hours our $75 an hour and I was impressed with him and I am a machanic at Ghent in Greeley. He has a machine shop where i am getting my block done at. I am going to assembly the short block and take it to him. But I have put ALOT OF TIME in calling around shops in northern colorado for pricing on headers install or camshaft install and everyone in my opinion was jerking me. But he was really striaght forward and even let me cruise his shop and check out some of the race cars he had on lifts while he was working on my camaro. So, he probabley will be doing the rest of the work for me.:coffee:Quote:
Originally Posted by DanWS6
Cool. I'll just need to have the short block assembled for me. I plan on putting the rest of it together.
dude honestly i think if your putting stock heads and intake on a 383 your wasiting your money to be honest, my friend did a 383 with the 90/90, 5.3's
this might help you out some here is his entire mod list.
and on a conservite tune they made 490 rwhp through a 12 bolt and some 315's out back. and that was at 12* of timing, they are hoping for about 550 NA, and with the N20 some 700's
- Accel 44# Fuel Injectors
- Aeromotive Fuel Injected Bypass Regulator
- American Racing 17" Longboard Billet Wheels
- APC White Face Gauges
- APS Billet Valve Covers
- ARP Head Stud Kit
- ARP Main Stud Kit
- ARP Rod Bolts
- Autometer Cobalt Series 5" Tachometer
- Autometer Cobalt Series Fuel Pressure Gauge
- Autometer Cobalt Series LED Dimmer
- Autometer Cobalt Series Nitrous Pressure Gauge
- Autometer Cobalt Series Pyrometer Gauge
- Autometer Triple Gauge A-Pillar
- BFG g-Force KD 255/40R17 Front (Street)
- BFG g-Force KD 315/35R17 Rear (Street)
- BMR Adjustable Lower Control Arms
- BMR Adjustable Panhard Bar
- BMR Poly Engine Mounts
- BMR Strut Tower Brace
- BMR Subframe Connectors
- BMR Tubular K-Member
- BMR Weld-In Relocation Brackets
- Clevite 77 Custom Grind Valve Seats
- Clevite 77 Cam Bearings
- Clevite 77 Main Bearings
- Clevite 77 Rod Bearings
- CompCams 1.7:1 ProMag Rocker Arms
- CompCams Chrome Moly Hardened Pushrods
- CompCams Double Roller Adjustable Timing Chain
- CompCams R-Series Lifters
- D&D Performance 3-4 Billet "Dogs"
- DEI Dale Earnhardt Chevrolet Badge
- DMH Dual 3.0" Electronic Exhaust Cutout Covers
- Eagle Forged 4.000" Stroke Crank
- Eagle Forged 6.200" Rods
- Eaton Posi Unit
- FAST 90mm Composite Port-Matched Intake Manifold
- Fiberglass Fabricators 2" Cowl Hood
- GM 1969 Camaro Script Emblems
- GM 2002 Slave Cylinder
- GM Door Jam DEI Trademark Decal
- GM "GM" Badges
- GM Synchro Rebuild Kit
- GTS Tail Light Blackouts
- Hypertech 160* Thermostat
- JE Forged Pistons
- JE Pro Seal Rings
- K&N Filtercharger
- Katech ASA-Certified Belt Tensioner
- Katech High-Wall Tensioner Pulley
- Kook's Custom Staged Stainless Longtube Headers
- with 3.5" Collectors & Venturi Velocity Cones
- Lou's Short Stick
- Manley RaceFlo Valves, Custom 5-Angle Grind w/Backcut, 2.05/1.60
- MBA Billets "Bowtie" Cylinder Head Plate
- Meziere Electric Water Pump
- Mickey Thompson ET Street 255/50R16 Drag Radials (Track Only)
- Moser 12-Bolt Rearend, 33-Spline Axles, TA Cover
- MTI Clear 75mm Induction Lid
- Mufflex 4" Exhaust System
- NGK TR55 Spark Plugs
- Nick Williams 90mm Throttle Body
- Richmond 4.10 Gears
- RKSport Billet Grille
- RKSport Clear Side Markers, Front & Rear
- RKSport Ground Effects Package
- SLP Heavy Duty Oil Pump
- SLP Leather Wrap Shift Knob
- SLP Line Lock
- SLP Short Shifter
- SLP Quad Exhaust
- SPEC Stage-III+ Clutch & Flywheel
- Spintech Muffler 4" Inlet Dual 3.5" Outlets
- Spohn Adjustable Torque Arm w/Duel Driveshaft Loops
- SR&P Adjustable Master Cylinder
- SR&P Coil Pack Relocation Package
- SR&P Custom Grind Cam .605/.609 238/240 112
- SR&P 3.0" - 4" Stainless Y-Pipe
- SR&P 3.0" Stainless Cutouts
- SR&P Stage III 5.3 Liter Heads
- SR&P Throttle Body Coolant Bypass
- Taylor Thundervolt 11mm Wires
- Tremec Viper 3-4 Steel Shift Fork
to get the short block installed is easy if you buy the stroker kit. The kit through jegs and or summit is around $2,300 and comes with all thebearings and new pistions, rods, crank, rod bearings, its the whole package. But you will have to have your block machined for connecting rod clearance.Quote:
Originally Posted by DanWS6
:coffee:
honestly i think if your putting stock heads and intake on a 383 your wasiting your money to be honest, my friend did a 383 with the 90/90, 5.3's
this might help you out some here is his entire mod list.
and on a conservite tune they made 490 rwhp through a 12 bolt and some 315's out back. and that was at 12* of timing, they are hoping for about 550 NA, and with the N20 some 700's
- Accel 44# Fuel Injectors
- Aeromotive Fuel Injected Bypass Regulator
- ARP Head Stud Kit
- ARP Main Stud Kit
- ARP Rod Bolts
- Clevite 77 Custom Grind Valve Seats
- Clevite 77 Cam Bearings
- Clevite 77 Main Bearings
- Clevite 77 Rod Bearings
- CompCams 1.7:1 ProMag Rocker Arms
- CompCams Chrome Moly Hardened Pushrods
- CompCams Double Roller Adjustable Timing Chain
- CompCams R-Series Lifters
- D&D Performance 3-4 Billet "Dogs"
- Eagle Forged 4.000" Stroke Crank
- Eagle Forged 6.200" Rods
- FAST 90mm Composite Port-Matched Intake Manifold
- GM Synchro Rebuild Kit
- Hypertech 160* Thermostat
- JE Forged Pistons
- JE Pro Seal Rings
- K&N Filtercharger
- Katech ASA-Certified Belt Tensioner
- Katech High-Wall Tensioner Pulley
- Kook's Custom Staged Stainless Longtube Headers
- Meziere Electric Water Pump
- MTI Clear 75mm Induction Lid
- NGK TR55 Spark Plugs
- Nick Williams 90mm Throttle Body
[LIST][*]Taylor Thundervolt 11mm Wires
- SLP Heavy Duty Oil Pump
- SR&P Coil Pack Relocation Package
- SR&P Custom Grind Cam .605/.609 238/240 112
- SR&P Stage III 5.3 Liter Heads
- SR&P Throttle Body Coolant Bypass
First off your friend must have one hell of a car and some deep pockets, I fully agree if you dropped that much money into an engine you would be stacked. What is the diffrence between running 5.3 heads and 5.7 heads just the compression rate right? I would like to keep it where it can be ran on the street and your buddys car to me seems like it would have to run on 98 octane or more. that is extremley hard to find here in colorado for a car that is in the summer daliy driver. I am very impressed with his car. Did you find a LS1 rebuild manual out there? cause i have heard diffrent things about tourqe settings on heads and rods and mains. thanks for the wisdom drop.:coffee:
Quote:
Originally Posted by 99Ls1fever
it runs on 93 or 92, you can tune it to run on that, i believer after all was said and done he spent like 10k on the motor, me personally would of went with a blower. the guy who built it owns his own shop here in Cincinnati. and worked as a corvette tech at GM for quite some time, and can pretty much tune anything honestly. his car is a weekend car it runs fine on the street
I agree there is better ways to spend $10k like stroker heads and cam super charger, procharger, or free horsepower through STS kit. Personally I want stroker, heads, cam and some type of forced induction. I personally am a big fan of the sts kit which is a turbo and is free horsepower off the exhaust and is not belt driven from the crank. But that is just me. That could all happen and still be close to $10k and have alot more horsepower for your buck.Out here in colorado we are starved for oxygen anyways.So, there are a handfull of camaro's that probabley get the air they need. Thanks for the hit back:devil:Quote:
Originally Posted by Zboner
I'll take a look at their rotating assemblies. I was planning to piece together the forged parts myself though. Need to build up the block to handle the boost I'm throwing at it. :lol:Quote:
Originally Posted by 99Ls1fever
What boost are you throwing at it? I am very interested in forced induction, but i was definatley more interested in the sts turbo system because it is free horsepower from the exshaust instead of belt driven from the crank which in my opnion steals hp. just woundering. thanksQuote:
Originally Posted by DanWS6
I saw about 11 pounds. Stock block... ran a 12.19 @ 114 at bandimere. I'm burning lots of oil now and we figure my rings are shot.Quote:
Originally Posted by 99Ls1fever
I'm not a fan of having a turbo sitting in an easy spot where it can get stolen. Also the extra piping, etc would just be a pain to route back up to the engine.
With a forged block and good blower cam I will easily get my 11.50 next year.
How often are you at bandimere? And what car do you have? I Have worked at Bandimere for the past three years. I work the starting line and the water box, I am sure i have seen you run. that is a hell of a lot of boost to be running on a stock bottom end. But, my car never sets out where a turbo could be stolen or anything. But, i do see alot of sts systems at badimere. and there is a z06 that has that kit that flat flys...:zoom:Quote:
Originally Posted by DanWS6
He has a silver WS.6.
I run my N/A black WS.6 down there a few times a year myself.
11.97 at 117.8 here.
That Z06...refering to the one that runs 10.7 at 137??? I know that guy pretty well. MEAN car.
Yea i fully agree, I actually think I have talked to you before. Did you go to any test and tunes late in the year probabley like first of October or last of September? I was talking to a guy one of those nights who had a stroked black or dark blue trans am ws6 probabley at least a 2001 or 2002I believe and I know for sure that run he ran a 12 flat at 118 or very close to that speed I believe. And it flat out moved. Also he had either drag slicks or drag radials on.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Luos
Black. 1999.
More than likely me. :yup:
Skinnies and MT radials.
Yea that car is F**KING SICK, we actually talk about you a lot on the starting line and you personally are one of my favorite cars down there, I pulled up next to you on a test and tune night in a white 99 z28 and we shared a hand full of words and then we were to the burn out box. But that car is very clean and runs very impressive. what engine mods do you have done? I know you have it stroked. What else?:yourock::coffee:Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. LuosBlack. 1999.
More than likely me. :yup:
Skinnies and MT radials.
Full suspension, Moser 9", TSP 402 with a nice cam and heads.
I only made it there a couple of times this season. 2002 Silver WS6. I figured the tranny/rear would die before the motor. I'm burning tons of oil now.. probably the rings are show. I always knew I'd have to do engine work. That black z06 has twin sts turbos on it.. it's crazy. I never want to run faster than 11.5 there because I don't want to put a rollbar/cage in my car. I want more of a street car and less of a drag car. :yup:Quote:
Originally Posted by 99Ls1fever
Yea I here you on that, I figure my rear end will be toast by next race season, I just re did the tranny this year at the end of the race season, so i hope to make it on that tranny a few more years before replacing that again. But I guess you can always look at the famous saying build it stronger next time But that seems like a lot of boost on your engine. I didnt know stock engines could handle 11 pounds...Quote:
Originally Posted by DanWS6
Apparently they can't. :lmao:Quote:
Originally Posted by 99Ls1fever
how long were running it at 11 pounds for?Quote:
Originally Posted by DanWS6
Since April of this year. Before that I was on 5 pounds for about a year. Should've stuck with that probably. :lol:Quote:
Originally Posted by 99Ls1fever
How much diffrence in quarter mile times did you notice from running 5 to 8 pounds to 11 pounds?Quote:
Originally Posted by DanWS6
sorry but can i ask something ??
i have 244 cam which was already instilled on my 383 and wanted to know if
i'm going for a big shot of 400 or 300
do i have to change it ?
With the 4.5" pulley I got 6 pounds of boost and ran a 13.06 @ 108.75 with street tires. With the 4.0" pulley I got 11 pounds of boost and ran a 12.19 @ 114.Quote:
Originally Posted by 99Ls1fever
Thats pretty impressive, times with street tires. did you ever have it dyoned at 6 pounds and dynoed at 11 pounds? if so, what numbers did you pull?:DQuote:
Originally Posted by DanWS6
create your own theard and you will get hit backs....:happy:Quote:
Originally Posted by MR NOS
:tumbleweed:
i'm going for a big shot of 400 or 300
do i have to change it ?
First off what shot NOS, or Boost or what?
hahahahahah shot off noooosssss my friend
just asking...... my car is fast i'm sure i have kicked many asxxx but i thought that there
might be other things i can make better ...... the cam,head
yea definatley if you had a good cam and heads combo you could gain 100 horspower or more. Im not a big NOS man, it destroies your engine espically what size shot you are talking about..:uzi: Think simple heads and camshaft or rebuild then heads, cam, maybe stroke it. Atleast then you know what your bottom end of your engine can hold...Quote:
Originally Posted by MR NOS
Tnx for the info bro
and about the NOS ya i know
it destroies the engine but its powerful
any way you will change the engine some day :givesaf:
a guy on tech has a short block set up for that price right now. check it out.Quote:
Originally Posted by 99Ls1fever
brand new.
Not with 6 pounds. With 11 pounds it put down 540rwhp 480 ft/lbs with the converter locked and 499 rwhp 520 ft/lbs with it unlocked.Quote:
Originally Posted by 99Ls1fever
Dyno queen.Quote:
Originally Posted by DanWS6
My machine shop is ordering the Stroker kit, Which comes with Forged crank, Keith Black piston/Rods(500horse) all the bearings, Cleaning the block Bore/hone, Checking all the clearances ETC, for 1760$ including kit and machine work, All I have to do is assemble.Quote:
Originally Posted by 1fastcamarosss11
Just wait till next year. :yup:Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Luos
I want 13 second 1/4 mile times with 600+ RWHP.Quote:
Originally Posted by DanWS6
I'll be shooting for low 14's.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Luos
Thats a flat out steal, I would love for it to be that price:cheers:Quote:
Originally Posted by Sleeper101
Ya you might can check them out online and get a similar deal, its www.rheaperformance.com
They are the ones who done my machine work on my Skyline engine (rare) and did an awesome job. I assembled it myself but the motor runs perfect and very strong. So I expect the same results with my 383 stroker.
I checked that website and everything was empty like new products and most of the links on there page. Did you call them and ask about there product or how did you find out about them?Quote:
Originally Posted by Sleeper101
Sorry I forgot they just put up a new website, There my local shop I go by there every day. You can call them and find out more info, The guy is really cool his name is tim-423-775-3811. I just took my block there this past sat.Quote:
Originally Posted by 99Ls1fever
Sounds good mann, I will check it out today, if you get yours built first you need to hit me up.:coffee:Quote:
Originally Posted by Sleeper101
Alright, Just tell Tim, Scottie hooked ya up!!! He knows me real well,Quote:
Originally Posted by 99Ls1fever
Im not doing anything big right now, Just getting the internals done right, everything all nice and new, going back prob stock everything else for now until more cash gets flowing, Everything else will be bolt on stuff for later, I just need to get my car back on the road. It should be done and running in the next month I hope!!!
Know before I forget to ask, What were you running? Vortech Supercharger? Procharger? just am curiuos...:coffee:Quote:
Originally Posted by DanWS6
I understand that man...lol But I personally cant wait till next spring when everything is good to go and Test and Tunes start back up.:happy:Quote:
Originally Posted by Sleeper101
How much do you actually take your car out on the road ? Is T/A even street legal? or is it garaged for the winter? Cause I thought that you drove your car to the track, but I might be misinformed... just thought it would be fun to see on the interstate:eek2:Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Luos
It's mostly street legal.. just needs tags. :lol:Quote:
Originally Posted by 99Ls1fever
It's a street car more than it is a drag car.
Wow, I wasn't sure but that car has some balls...:flex:Quote:
Originally Posted by DanWS6
:yup:
I had it out a few days ago. Cleaned it up real good and got some pics.
It is first and foremost a street car. Just like it to do well at the track along with enjoying it on the street.
It does need tags as it is catless. I need to get my hands on some cats and otherwise it should pass I have been told.
http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/item...d=188&catid=45Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Luos
Waste of money :yup:Quote:
Originally Posted by DanWS6
:blah:Quote:
Originally Posted by fabrizi
Damn near anything with the letters S, L, and P is.Quote:
Originally Posted by fabrizi
They tell you in their name it's not good. Street LEGAL Performance. Legal and performance don't go together.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Luos
