my pass. window on my 99 t/a is getting slower and slower. just wondering if anyone has had this problen and how to correct. thanks
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my pass. window on my 99 t/a is getting slower and slower. just wondering if anyone has had this problen and how to correct. thanks
Happens to them all eventually :mad: The window motor is going out - apparently GM undersized them for the weight of the window they needed to lift.
Only option is to replace - most people go with the Siemens motors - you can pick them up at AutoZone for around $56.
While you're at it - might as well do both sides - the other can't be far behind...
1QuikWS6 is right... they will eventually go bad, it's just a question of when. You can prolong their life by removing the interior door panels and spraying some silicon lubricant everywhere you see moving parts. This sped mine back up a little bit... but about a year later the drivers side was toast. The passenger side is used less, but I keep it lubed, and haven't had any problems.
thanks, i need more money too! would love to make this car scream. i know the potetial is there but it takes $$$$$$$$$$$
replace both of them I just replace my drivers side window motor and the day after my pass side one went just do them both and get it over with
my 99 WS6 does the same thing on the passenger side. The funny thing is that the passenger side motor has been doing this for over 3 years now and still runs. On the other hand my driver side that showed no signs of having trouble went out just a couple months after buying it(bought my car used) Anyway so i went to buy a motor at autozone. Pretty easy fix you just have to drill the pop rivets from the factory. I didnt look good enough though and paid like 70 bucks or so for one now i find them on ebay for a shit load cheaper!!!!!! This is about as low as they come in price if you need one get one here! Heres the link to one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LIFE-...13521367QQrdZ1
Once it starts happening it's all downhill. I've run into that problem with all my other F-bodies. It gets even worse if you have tint. But as everyone says...just replace them and you'll be fine. BUT DO NOT GO TO THE DEALERSHIP FOR THAT (unless it's under warranty).
I ignored my problem. It started with the driver's side, then went over to the passenger side. Eventually the window just stopped working! I had to wait about five minutes before I could roll it up another few inches, then it'd stop and I'd have to do it all over again. I took it to the dealer and they replaced it, but they also messed up my tint those crazy bastards! It was under warranty, and as Eric said AVOID THE DEALER! It would have cost me $498.00. That's 249.00 for each side, parts and labor.
-somebody
how hard is it to replace motor? My passenger is assnizingly slow...
Its really easy! You just take the door panel off and drill out the pop rivets that hold the old motor in. Then disconnect the wire from the original motor and slip it out. Then use nut and bolts to hold the new motor in where the original pop rivets were. Then reconnect the wire put the door panel back on and your done! Thats it! Didnt take me long at all.Quote:
how hard is it to replace motor? My passenger is assnizingly slow...
Quote:
Originally Posted by noblesramair
Do i need to take the regulater out too or motor itself comes out?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/93-02...15850597QQrdZ1
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/93-94...16224686QQrdZ1
This is exactly what it looks like. This whole unit comes out when you drill the pop rivets. I recommend you get one of these also. I bought mine at autozone not knowing about these on ebay and spent like 80 bucks!
* IMPORTANT* There are 2 listings there because in the description it says that one is for long term performance and the other is for short term performance (basically if your looking for a quick fix!) The good one costs 40.00 and the other costs 20.00 so its up to you. Hope this helps!
My 99 conv has the same problem with passenger side window. I would like to find a heavy duty window motor for this car if someone makes them
Personally, I went with the Siemens Window Motors available thru Autozone (P/N WL42014 for both Left/Right) $54.99/ea. These are the motors that so many have rated as best replacement, and have had no problems with. They include a Lifetime Warranty.
I saw the eBay listed window motors and noted that the 'better' version ($39.99 + $9 shipping/ea) states that it has a lifetime warranty also. I still went with the Autozone motors - I have no history as to the performance of the eBay motors, and even though lifetime warranty is stated - how easy would it be to collect on this with a company on the internet that is out of state?
I felt that the extra $6/ea cost for a proven reliable motor, and the ability to just drive down to my local Autozone to have the warranty honored (if neccessary) was worth well worth it. I'm quite sure that if the eBay motors needed warranty replacement that the shipping both ways would not be included - and then there's the whole problem of contacting them in the first place.
At Autozone - I slap them on the counter and get the replacement immediately - no questions asked.
Your choice...
well put. Yeah Extra 6 bucks for the convinience is well worth it IMOQuote:
Originally Posted by 1QuikWS6
I have the same prob....just picked up the Siemens part at Auto Zone but haven't installed it yet. But it came with no hardware, and in two pieces-- looks like the motor part and a separate mounting plate. Anybody know if I have to use the plate? And what about hardware...what size bolts/nuts should I use? I've seen the how-tos like this one http://shbox.com/page/windowmotor.html
Any ideas greatly appreciated
2 words. New motor.
no help?
You will NOT use the bracket that came with the motor if you install as following:
First remove the door panel, then pull down the clear plastic water barrier (being careful not to tear it as you will want to reapply). Also remove the front speaker to gain an access hole thru which you can reach the motor.
Raise the window up to full closed position. Some say you need to block up the window so it will not drop once you remove the motor and the gear disengages from the selector. I did, but soon found that it was not necessary in my case - didn't block up the other side and it stayed up just fine.
If you follow the directions at the link the pics should give you an idea of where you will need to drill 1/2" holes (I actually used a dremel w/carbide bit) directly over the rivets behind the inner door skin. These will act as access holes to enable you to drill out the (3) rivets holding the motor in place. You will want to use a drill that is only as big as the head of the rivet - and be careful to only drill off the head. I found that once head was drilled off a small punch was all that was needed to push the rivet out of the hole.
Hold the motor as you knock out the last rivet as it will drop. Unplug the electrical connector from the old motor - plug into new motor. I also put heavy grease on the teeth of the new motor gear prior to install just for good measure.
The new motor will go back in place in same position as old motor and you will need to align holes in bracket behind door skin with holes in motor housing. You will easily be able to tell when the gear meshes with the selector and is in the right position. This is where you install the (3) small phillips head bolts/lockwasher/nuts that were supplied. Make sure to use loktite and tighten them securely.
At this point, plug your window switch back onto the connector and try out the motor before putting door panel back together.
The screws did come with my motors - they were contained in small sealed white pouches inside the box - maybe you just missed them - hope you didn't throw them out with the boxes! I can't tell you what size they were cause they're all buried in the door now :yup:
thanks!!!
I double checked...no bolts or hardware of any kind are in the box. I got jipped! I probably have some laying around that can work.
Well, I almost thought I'd be able to give you bolt size - remembered that they supplied (4) bolts as if you were gonna use the bracket - but you only use (3) when installing as I described.
The bolt is larger than #6 and just a red 'you know what kind' hair smaller than #8. So I'm going to assume it's metric. It does have fine thread. I'm thinking if you can't find metric bolt that size that a #8 UNF bolt would work.
The sooner you replace it the better. If there is a bad time and place for the motor to finally quit(like just before it rains) that's when it will happen. I was running for the cover at a gas station 'til the coast was clear! Good Luck.
what
sorry my bad
We all have slow windows (my driver's is replaced with the seimens...awesome)
I love all the little nuances(problems) these cars have. My stereo is posessed. Some days it sounds like the driver's side rear sub is blown to shreds and spitting paper fragments over the back seat. Next day....perfection....not a hint of distortion or rattling.