**read Me Before Asking... The Exhaust System**
Here’s my little FAQ for you guys on exhaust systems. Its short and sweet and about all you need to get a general idea of what the differences are in them. This is to also eliminate all the “What headers should I get?” or “What’s the difference in coated, non coated and stainless?” questions. Any threads that can easily be answered in this thread will be deleted. Take the time to read and research. Let me know if you guys have any questions, comments, corrections...anything! Post up!
Coated vs. Non-coated vs. stainless:
Non-coated- probably going to be the cheapest of them all. They’re coated with hitemp paint. These will generally rust rather quickly in salty or wet areas and will last 2-4yrs…maybe!
Ceramic Coated- Ceramic coated headers are about the most commonly used headers. They’re going to last longer than non-coated headers. (Maybe another 2-3 years depending on what the weather is like in the area) Reduce under the hood temps. Quite a bit compared to non-coated. If the protective coating is scratched though, plan on them rusting a bit sooner. They also have a nice finish to them that adds a bit of bling to the engine bay.
Stainless- Stainless are the most expensive of them all, but will outlive the car. They will not rust so you don’t have to worry about that. Really all there is to it.
Different types of header lengths:
Shorties: shorties will add a slight power gain over stock, but not much on n/a engines. The main reason for shorties is to get better flow than stock while still being legal. Don’t expect more than about 10hp or so with them. Forced induction applications will see better gains with them though.
Mids: Mac and Bassani are the main midlength header makers. They will yield you a bit more torque and hp over the shorties, and will not choke your cam. These are not CARB legal. When getting these headers, you also need to plan on a new ypipe because the stock one will not work with the added length.
LT’s: Full out long tubes! You get the best scavenging with these headers. Defiantly not legal, but show the best gains overall! When getting these headers, you also need to plan on a new ypipe because the stock one will not work with the added length.
RACE STYLE vs. NON-RACESTYLE:
This subject pertains to you emission fittings. 98-00 Have EGR and AIR fittings and 01-02 just have air fittings. Race style has none of them. If you don’t plan on putting your EGR or AIR back on, then race style is the way to go. Looks much cleaner or you could get the headers with the emission fittings, get a block off kit and still remove the emission components.
DUALS vs. YPIPE:
Duals sound sweet!!! Mandrel bends are the only way to go from the headers all the way past the x or h pipe to keep cross flow to a maximum. Dumped systems are cheaper than over/under the axle setups. Over is about 2x what the dumped cost and under about 150 or so more. 3” is generally what you want all the way to the muffler and 2.5 on back.
Ypipes-
ORY- no cats
Catted – has cats. Simple enough.
Ypipe setups flow very well contrary to what some may think when comparing them to duals. There are so many fast ass cars out there running Ypipes that are not only quick, but yield great dyno numbers. You will get maximum flow out of these systems with a cutout…either a normal or electric.
That’s pretty much the jist of it all. I don’t have the time nor the urge to get really down and dirty with the explanation and thorough breakdown of each and every component. Here are a few of the main headers out there for LSx vehicles:
Non stainless-
PACESETTERS
EDLEBROCK
HEDMAN
FLOWTECH
JETHOT
HOOKER
JBA
THUNDER RACING’S
STAINLESS:
QTP
KOOKS
STAINLESS WORKS
DYNATECH
I may have forgotten a few, but this will get you by ;)
Enjoy!
Nino
