Im looking for a good reliable cam my motor is stock except for the lid, and the push rods and i want to cam it next what should i get for good power and it also has to go with a otherwise stock motor.
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Im looking for a good reliable cam my motor is stock except for the lid, and the push rods and i want to cam it next what should i get for good power and it also has to go with a otherwise stock motor.
dude cam it after u have full bolt ons. Ull need lt's and a catback at the verry least. The better ur car breaths the more benificial a cam will be. Youll need to change a lot more things with a cam other than just pushrods.
Oh, I have full exhaust with headers.
If i do need to change alot more then please describe to me what i do need to change and then what cam would best go with it.
timing chain, oil pump, valve springs, pushrods and i think thats it.
agreed.........If this is going to be your daily driven car. I would recommend the following:Quote:
Originally Posted by CandyRedZ28
TR224 (224/224 .563/.563 114 LSA) or TSP 228R (228/228 .588/.588 114LSA)
PRC dual springs ( could use just comp 918 single springs if you wanted)
chromoly hardened pushrods
Titanium retainers (not exactly necessary)
ported LS6 oil pump (or your choice high flow oil pump, but again not necessary if your oil PSI is ok now)
LS2 timing chain (or a timing chain of your choice as long as it is stronger than stock LS1 chain).
Those are the two cams I am debating on and both are very streetable. Just my .02$ there is many choices out there for different reasons. Dont get in a hurry and do your research first and figure out how much HP you want, when in the power band you want it, along with how comfortable you want to be while you drive it.
Also how many miles are on it? When I did my heads and cam it had 60,000 miles on it and I also replaced the lifters and the entire valvetrain. Course that was a lot more $$$ than a cam only swap. For me it worked out because I am not to sure how much mileage and beating those lifters can take. I know a guy that a lifter turned sideways and his car has been down for a few weeks while he gets money and time to fix it.
Also my $0.02 on the cam, I would, as above, figure where you want the power and all. I have a Comp and a Lunati cam. I really like that Lunati Voodoo cam. It saw a little action last night. :firedevil: :ar:
I have 52k on my car i also was planning on changing the springs lifters when i did the cam the power i want is about 400 or so to the rear wheels and i would like the powerband to be about 2000rpms-6500 or 7000rpms.
If I had the exact cam specs on my WS6 I would send it to you, but a previous owner did those mods. I have the invoice sheets but they are a little vague in that area. My suggestion would be to get a custom grind they will figure in all of your mods, weight, gearing, and where the engine is going to spend its time. For example, going with a huge cam in a daily driver would make great numbers but not work well. Anyways after a short search I found this "Lunati technical support is availible by phone Monday through Friday 7AM to 5PM CST @
662 892-1500." on the Holley/Lunati website. The custom grind route should be close if not the same price, and you will probably be happier. http://www.holley.com/types/Chevy_Voodoo_Cams.asp Also while I have it up there is the wesite address. You could also search for Comp Cams' phone number. I have heard they will custom grind you a cam also as well as most of the other cam makers. Have you considered doing the heads at the same time? I believe they have to come off to get the lifters out. With the heads and cam putting 400 to the ground should not be a problem. M6's will have a bit more than A4's. Also, do you still have the stock 10-bolt rear end?
www.fquick.com/2001Hawk
I'd say you would be just fine with only springs and pushrods. If you race alot, sure...go for oil pump and timing chain.........otherwise its optional. For all out reliability and excellent power under the curve........TR224 hands down.
no, you will needs to upgrade your oil pump if you go with a cam and timing chain. you have to remove the timing chain anyways for the cam swap, so do it then. do it for piece of mind and if you choose to go bigger cam in the future, the work has already been done...
also what are your current numbers? hitting 400rwhp with a 224 will be hard. you will want to go bigger. i have a 224, and i recently bought a 231/237 to put in it's place. also saving up for a FAST 90/90...
I will for sure do the timing chain and oil pump and with the exhaust free air mod whisper lid and header i made 322rwhp and 327rwtrq. I would really just like to have something major done to the car and move away for a close race with a almost stock ls1. Thats my goal, 400 is jsut a number if i dont reach it oh well, I just want some real power. Thanks for all the info guys keep it coming.
Ok on the TR224 cam it says use of 1.8 rockers not recommend is 1.8 the stock ratio or what?
Nevermind i called in and got that question answered they said use stock 1.7.
Bumping this thread to the top to see if there are any other opinions...I have the same questions!
can you list all your mods that you ahve down so far. you seem to be really low if you have headers, etc w/only 322rwhp.
i had 330 w/lid and catback only...
I have free mods whisper lid, headers, catback exhaust and i changed the pushrods when i was taking apart my motor a bit to see how it looked inside.
The car has custom brakes and has been lowered 1.5 in the back and 1.75 in the front and i have a z06 clutch. And i dont remember exact numbers im at work and dont have the sheet on me but i know the hp was high 320s like 328 or something and the torque was like 338 or something like that ill give better numbers when i get home.
Im also looking to get a new hood but not a ws6 hood cause i dont like looking like a ws6 if im not one.
Ya know you guys are really making me hate that I haven't got the dyno numbers for my WS6.
Bam
Comp 240/242 112 is good choice with headers, twin 3 inch system, pushrods, prw 1.7 rockers, comp 918 springs, dual row chain 2 deg advance and mafless tune 420 - 440 hp at the tyres, fuel econemy is not too bad considering the size of the cam and it sounds tough at idle.
Hope this helps
Dave
I would think that a TSP 228R would put down about 400 with a good tune. I know of some TR224 putting down around 380. I am talking about cam only, no head porting.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2001hawk
torquer 2 112 or 113 lsa <-- your choice
powerband is 1800-6400
i dyno'd @ 413/391 w/ full bolt ons (minus u/d pulley)