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OK here are my mods so far:
Lid, Ported TB, u/d pulley, borla cat back, lca's, SS3600 converter & N2O.
This is what I have in the closet:
1" rear sway bar, chromemoly d.s. w/1350 u-joints, lca relocation brackets & arp studs.
This is what Im deciding on:
12-bolt rear $2,500
Kooks headers & catted y-pipe $1,400 (installed)
If this is your daily driver I vote rear that way you will have no worry's sprayin' and launching. If this is your toy go header's and y-pipe and just wait till the rear blow's.
Well, Id like to go to the track and beat the piss out of it and I know I cant really do that with the stock rear. On the other hand, I dont go to the track much.
Pair of dice hanging off the rear view mirror.
headers, i love mine
Go for the rear.......always replace the weakest link.............
Get the rear better safe then sorry.
but look at me I just ordered Heads and Cam and I have a stock A4.
Put the headers on and once the rear blows then you'll have both done.
Or you can upgrade to the 8-ball shift knob.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sarge
ok I can see that the rear end is losing the poll pretty bad here. ill tell ya though with that stall and spray your rear is taking a beating man and its gunna go eventually. now from a performance standpoint the headers will gain ya maybe 2-3 tenths whereas if you go for the moser 12 bolt you can launch harder, run sticker tires with out worry as well as upgraded to a nice set of 373 gears for the same price as getting the stock gears back in and from that nice little pack you will see a much better gain in performance as well as strength from your car
rear... do the headers next.
"A stereo is only as good as your worst component."Quote:
Originally Posted by Liquifire
I find this to be true in cars as well.
In my case.... anything from the front bumper to the back bumper excluding exhaust... lol.
Looking to do my tranny and gears first... then suspension... and finally the engine.
Would you rather plan the rear, or have to do it when i:fire: t breaks ?
wait till the rear breaks, do headers first.
sometimes these rears hold up for quite awhile
I was thinking lots of stickers , but that works too...lol...Quote:
Originally Posted by StangKiller615
rear
you should always mod from the ground up and back to front.
Yeah everyone wants HP right away but then your stuck replacing parts that break, the weakest links in the chain. Usually drive train.
Also most people build HP right away, expecting to have faster quarter mile times. Yes the trap speed will be faster but the ET will not because of the lack of getting the power to the ground or because the drivetrain broke. A full suspension, 12 bolt f-body with slicks will shed so much time in the quater
With that being said go with the 12 bolt, you can mod the hell out of you care feeling secure that your care has a rearend that can handle it.
Also rearend swaps are easy to do yourself. A 12 bolt by strange or moser should not cost you more then $2000 tax included out the door. Unless your buying the strange dana 60 which is about $2500 tax included.
Because of your stall I would say buy the 12bolt, SUBFRAME CONNECTORS(they should be everyone first mod) and some slicks!
Also lets say $2500 is your budget,
buy a pair of quality used headers and strange 12bolt (not the dana 60) and you will stay below $2500.
if you can do the work yourself with some friends, do it and save the labor chargers. Most shops charge about $400-500 for header install...
well in my 98 t/a i havnt touched the rear and i havnt had any quams with it, i replaced the tranny 4l60e guts with kevlar bands, electronic servo 3800 vigalante stahl, larger capasidy fluid pump replaced all lines with bent tubing running a billitt aluminum circle track tranny cooler. in moter lunati cam,behive springs,valves, lingenfelter ported zo6 manifold, ported throttle body, ram air, smooth bellow, slp lid,double roller time chain, custom bent 3.5 mandrel exhaust, no cats, no sims, mac headers, electric cutouts. i would say just do it all, heads are my next mod! plus all mods but the tranny were done by me and my good buddy weiser. i couldent imagine paying someone 1400 to put headers on.
Do the LT headers & y-pipe. A electric cutout will go well with the LT's. Have you put an aftermarket cam on yet?Quote:
Originally Posted by anti-social
No. Im gonna wait on engine parts for now.Quote:
Originally Posted by StangKiller615
are you saying $1400 for the install or the part+ install? because the parts alone will run you $1400. Unless you got some special deal - in which case let me in. lol
I really don't see how the rear end is losing the poll still...
Noobs voting without posting. By doing the rear now you might be able to get some cash back by selling the stock rear.Quote:
Originally Posted by juiced99ws6
1400 for parts & installQuote:
Originally Posted by 99blueZ
Yeah that's a possibility as well... I gave mine away since I had no where to keep it but I just don't see how anyone can ignore the performance/ strength gain of the 12 bolt and gears and say the get the headers. That axle is the best thing to happen to my car.Quote:
Originally Posted by 86 IROC-Z
Well, looks like im doing the rear. Its alot of money for such a small gain but Im gonna need it anyway.
My plan is to send the relocation brackets, arp studs, backing plates & e-brake cable brackets to the builder & have him put it all together. Then when I get it home, Ill Por-15 it & finally install it with the drive shaft & sway bar that I have.:)
You better go with the rear if you are wanting good track times
YAY!! Trust us man you will love the choice. congrats on the decision.Quote:
Originally Posted by anti-social
I am a firm believer in building up the weak areas then going for the HP. I would do the 12 bolt first and like many others have mentioned, do the labor yourself. Is there a particular reason you are wanting to do Kooks?
Well, I want stainless. When I went to get my converter installed, I told the mechanic I wanted QTP's. He said not to get them cause of fitment problems. He said to get kooks & he stocks them. He works on F-body's all the time & has 2 of his own. He wanten 1400 for the kooks & catted Y-pipe Installed. After the rear, Headers will ne next on my list...that is if my rear tires dont go bald...Quote:
Originally Posted by Y2KPewterSS
We have a GP going on for subframe connectors and driveshaft loops. Check it out here. http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33711
SFC's should be one of the first basic modifications done to an f-body. We have never offered a bolt-on subframe connector simply because we don't recommend them. Eliminating chasis flex with a few bolts doesn't seem too safe IMO. Our SFC's are not visible unless you get real close to the ground and does not reduce ride clearance.
As far as the driveshaft loop, NHRA rules require one if you are running less than 13.99 or are using slicks. If you are looking to go to a drag strip that abides by those rules they probably won't let you on the track. It's also suppose to strengthen the chasis similar to an engine bay brace, although this is not its primary focus.
As far as LT headers or rear-end is concerned, I'd personally go with headers and replace the rear-end when/if it goes. Headers is where you'll see the most gains especially if you have 3.23's (GU5 RPO).
just out of curiosity have you been to the track yet I have almost exactly the same set up just difference exhaust and converter.
I'm an A4 02 with lid, 3600 vig convertor, 100 shot, and SLP LM. My rear is still holding out and I've used ET streets launching at 3400 running no2 right off the line 11.8 with a 1.5 60' the most damage I've done is my limited slip but the rear is still holding strong. :)
I have sub-frame and DSL though too.
do the headers so you get the power gains!!! still rocken the 10 bolt w/ 405rwhp and 415rwtq 11.94 @ 116mph
Do all the mods first then when the rear-end explodes you know you're putting down the respctable HP gains.
This 10 bolt is the same rearend for 10 years now and the same one they use in a V6 for chri'sakes.
This 10 bolt is the same rearend for 10 years now and the same one they use in a V6 for chri'sakes.[/QUOTE]
Well, thats why im doing the rear first. I got the drive shaft, rear sway bar, relocation brackets, backing plates & por-15 in the closet. Im ready to get the rear and i am not getting stuck at the track when the D.S. snaps or the p.o.s. rear grenades....its already making noise & I never launched the car hard once!
i will be your next mod.