Basic Bolt On's list and some explanations

1. Best bang for the buck mod by far is a lid. When it comes to the different manufactureres, just remember, a lid is a lid. If you're looking for something cheap and affordable, check out the SLP lids. Great fit overall. I personally run the whisper lid but the fit isn't as good as the SLP.

2. Don't fall for the trick, stay with the stock MAF. DOn't spend the money for a bigger MAF or a Cold air tuned MAF. It will only give you more problems than gains. Detonation is a big issue! The most you should do with the MAF is porting and descreening the MAF which is a free MOD.

3. If you're running a 98-99 LS1, look into an LS6 or FAST manifold. Very good MOD and it makes a difference.

4. Freeing up your exhaust IE headers and cat back not only gives you more bark, but it will help you with the bite later after a cam install.

5. Pushrods are fairly easy to change. If you have an M6, Pushrods should be the first thing to change. The stock length is 7.400". The upgraded Chromoly's are only $150 approximately but it will save you from heartbreak when you ding past redline leading to bend or in my case, pushrods snapped in half.

6. Quarterpanel flex, leaky t-tops, twisted frames, it's all too common in our cars. Invest in a good set of Sub Frame connectors. Have them professionally installed, bolted, or welded on a loaded lift, not a frame off. On a frame off, once the car is lowered onto the tires and the suspension is preloaded, the welds will break and the bolts as well. For those who have questions on the loaded lifts, it's just a lift you drive up on and the whole car is lifted. Most shops have a roll on lift or a pit.

7. Rearend is a weakpoint when it comes to high horsepower. You can run a rebuilt stocker and be fine. The axles are usually what goes first.

8. Nothing beats a custom tune from a performance shop. Check out some local shops to see if they do any custom tuning. A programmer can cause some issues like pulling the wrong timing, wrong A/F Ratios, etc.

There are more mods than can possibly be listed, but this is a basic list. Pick and choose the route you take and do your research. On this site, you'll find a lot of informative sponsors. When shopping for a cam, look into Thunder Racing, they have some great custom Cams with full explanations and a few with Dyno Graphs. This site is full of info as well, do your research and surf through some posts.

Ok guys, if you want to add any more info into this list, feel free to add!

I have an 02 Firehawk, its got a slp blackwing lid, can you define its difference. I understand its different than a stock lid, my buddy says its the same. I dunno.

You can also do free mods like throttle body bypass, free ram air, and port and polish throttle body. Cold air induction setups can get you some horsepower and if you wanted to you can do new 8mm spark plug wires.

How do you do a Throttle Body bypass? I'm not sure what you mean?

You also mentioned descreening the MAF. Is there a screen inside blocking the flow? I haven't had mine off yet.

A throttle body bypass keeps the hot antifreeze from flowing through the throttle body keeping the incoming air cooler. I tis said to five about a six horsepwoer gain. Go to install university to see how to do it. Also yes there is a screen inside your MAF IT doesn't really block the flow too much but it is free horsepower if you take it off, but I would leave it in, it's there for a reason.

To Answer some questions, the donaldson/blackwind lid on the firehawks does have better flow than the stocker, it's basically a lid, that's all there is to it. Less restrictive than the silencer ram air setup found on WS6's and Stock T/A's. The Maf has a screen at the end which basically keeps big particals out. Some have notived a difference by descreening it, others have said not to do it because of the particles that can harm the MAF but then again, I haven't heard of any damage from a loose rock getting passed the filter to damage the MAF so I don't see a problem with it. Been running Maf ends with no screen since 98 and have had no issues. Also as a side note, if you have a kit like the BGRA kit or the SLP underbody sold air kit, it's not a good idea, on WS6's and aftermarket WS6 hoods to have both. It may seem like a good idea, an opened up hood to force more air and the underbody cold air at the same time, but what really happens is the air turbulence from two opposing air currents actually makes it less efficient.

Hey thanx for getting back info on the blackwing lid...do I keep it or does it compete with other aftermarkets like clear and whisper? If I keep it, what filter do you think I should run? The original was very dirty, so quick bought a wix....?:thinkin:

the paper filter works just fine. Just keep the blackwing. I know that sucker resells for a couple hundred. It's basically an OEM SLP lid for the firehawk to the best of my understanding

When I first got my 01 ws6 and i took the air box out I found a blade of grass stuck to my maf screen. Personal opinion says keep it for reasons like that, because u never know what might get to it.

I have oftened wondered if you couldnt take out the screen and weld in a chicken wire (just smaller holes) type of metal in and get a horsepower gain.
Has anyone tried this?

Thanks for all the help with the screen. It looks like it 's time to go tinkering.

Just a note for the SLP lid -
I sometimes send in a sample of my oil for analysis. When I installed the SLP lid on my WS6, my oil started showing a high silicon content. Blackstone Labs told me that dirty air was probably getting past my filter. I removed the SLP lid and reinstalled the stock lid. The next oil sample was normal. I tried the SLP lid again and I had high silicon again. Also, when I removed the SLP lid there was a small blade of grass stuck to my MAF screen.
I was very careful installing the lid. It simply does not seal as well as the stock lid. It does not seem to fit as tight.

some info on calculating HP, and my bolts on mods below:
A4 TA, substract 18% to 20% from the engine hp and you get hp to the rear wheel.
The M6 are said to be about 16% power loss..
so let's take my '99 A4 TA which claims 305hp to engine. That means
305-(305*0.18) = 304-54.9 = 250.1rwhp as stock engine.

my Mods:
I've got bolt on mods, lid and filter (5rwhp), SLP cold air induction kit (8rwhp), smooth bellow (5rwhp), Gratenelli MAF (5rwhp), 160F thermo, cat back Corsa (15rwhp), HyperTech Programer II (10rwhp), ASP Underdrive Pulley(12rwhp).

This dynoed the car at 315wrhp. so all those bolts on gave me only about 60-65 rwhp gain which is just about right. I did spent $850 on the Corsa, then $250 on the HPP3, and then another $300-$400 on the rest, about $1500 total which is about right for 60rwhp gain. If you were to spend $2000 on new head cyclinder it would bump you 50-60rwhp so I think I made a pretty good investment so far on the bolt ons.

My next move is to get jet-hot long tube haders and Y pipe which will add 20-25rwhp and then
get ls6 manifold intake adding another 10rwhp. And when I get $2-3k aside next year I can get the
head/cam package Patriot stage III probably which will get me in the 420rwhp with a nice tune.

PS. I did get the Eibach Pro kit lowering 1.25, it looks great.. use the stock shocks as you won't bottom out with this unless you go with 2inches springs. If you lower your ride and want to do LT headers and Y pipe later, you can still do it just stay away from the SLP brand since they will eat an additional 1-1.5 inch into the clearance and may scrape/bottom out every now and then.

my above posting is not entirely true... just found out all LSX are underrated by 30+ hp by GM:

per "99blueZ" on another thread on same subject:

"Way to open up a ancient thead.

Ok you got some problems with your post. Your T/A probably has about 330 crank hp stock - these cars are underrated. You car stock is probably 280rwhp. Thus you gained about 35rwhp from your mods. 315-280= 35. not the 60+ you were dreaming of. Here are the more realistic gains for your mods: lid and filter -10rwhp, SLP cold air induction kit -0rwhp, smooth bellow -0rwhp, Gratenelli MAF -0rwhp, 160F thermo, cat back Corsa -15rwhp, HyperTech Programer II -0rwhp, ASP Underdrive Pulley -10rwhp."

As far as suspension mods go, the stock shocks are absolute crap, and I am talking from the second they put them on the car. Upgrading to something like Bilstein HD shocks will help ride quality immensely. Also, LCA are a nice mod to help reduce wheel hop which is all to common on our cars.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by z28241

I have an 02 Firehawk, its got a slp blackwing lid, can you define its difference. I understand its different than a stock lid, my buddy says its the same. I dunno.

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From the old SLP message forum: The 2002 Firehawk's made in/after September 2002 or later all had the Blackwing/SLP lid stock as part of the Firehawk package. This is what made them 345HP instead of the previous 335HP. The remaining parts of the package stayed the same including the exhaust.

Along with the SLP/Blackwing lid came a Donaldson air filter...designed to flow better than K&N or any other filter on the market, while still providing an equal level of filtering. This stock Donaldson filter is a paper filter. SLP sells for about $30 I think.

Just had a question. My car is equipped with the slp performance package and was wondering if replacing the aftermarket maf w/ stock makes a difference even though everything was provided from Slp?

invest your money in something else than MAF, smooth bellow and small stuff... maybe a 2-3rwhp difference, not worth the $$, I bought it and almost no diff. the SLP lid and cai gave 5-6rwhp, the HPP3 programmer another 4-5rwhp.. etc,, check out my sig..

I Have A 96 Trans Am Lt1 , 6 Speed With K &n Cai, And Short Shifter With Borla Catback Exhaust With Magna Flow High Flow Performance Cats. What Other Mods Could I Do To Get Hp Gains And Arent Pricy?

I have been thinking of getting a Thunder Racing cams, what is a good recommendation for street and strip? and what about headers? which are you getting the best numbers?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DarthD

Just a note for the SLP lid -
I sometimes send in a sample of my oil for analysis. When I installed the SLP lid on my WS6, my oil started showing a high silicon content. Blackstone Labs told me that dirty air was probably getting past my filter. I removed the SLP lid and reinstalled the stock lid. The next oil sample was normal. I tried the SLP lid again and I had high silicon again. Also, when I removed the SLP lid there was a small blade of grass stuck to my MAF screen.
I was very careful installing the lid. It simply does not seal as well as the stock lid. It does not seem to fit as tight.

---

i had this problem as well, i used the K&N gasket on the bottem side of the intake and this pushed the air filter up enough to seal the lid. I then took the box back and told them the gasket was missing and put the other gasket in the appropriate place on the lid. i also made my own silicon gasket and basically glued the filter to the lid.

the problem appears to come from the seal around back toward the MAF/TB

i installed a throttle body spacer and smooth bellows on my 02 WS6 convertible. it produced a noticeable increase. staying with the stock lid.

did you use the nx tb spacer? port the maf next its pretty funny :ar:

I actually had my airlid come apart which allowed all kinds of stuff to flow over my air filter. When I noticed it and took off the maf the screen was covered with feathers and sticks and yes ROCKS!! So I strongly recommend leaving the screen where it belongs.

what does the egr and air block offs do?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by csess

what does the egr and air block offs do?

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Blocks off the AIR and EGR ports on the exhaust and intake manifolds. Basically just metal plates shaped like the ports to prevent leakage of exhaust gasses or intake air.

However, if you just block them off, you will get a Check Engine Light. You need to tune them out of the computer with a custom tune, and then you can block off the AIR/EGR ports.

where is the best place to start modifying with bolt ons?

I would start with airlid and catback first. Then I would do headers and ported throttle body.

+1 For Teh Lid And Full Exhuast

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Redphoenix1998

1. Best bang for the buck mod by far is a lid. When it comes to the different manufactureres, just remember, a lid is a lid. If you're looking for something cheap and affordable, check out the SLP lids. Great fit overall. I personally run the whisper lid but the fit isn't as good as the SLP.

2. Don't fall for the trick, stay with the stock MAF. DOn't spend the money for a bigger MAF or a Cold air tuned MAF. It will only give you more problems than gains. Detonation is a big issue! The most you should do with the MAF is porting and descreening the MAF which is a free MOD.

3. If you're running a 98-99 LS1, look into an LS6 or FAST manifold. Very good MOD and it makes a difference.

4. Freeing up your exhaust IE headers and cat back not only gives you more bark, but it will help you with the bite later after a cam install.

5. Pushrods are fairly easy to change. If you have an M6, Pushrods should be the first thing to change. The stock length is 7.400". The upgraded Chromoly's are only $150 approximately but it will save you from heartbreak when you ding past redline leading to bend or in my case, pushrods snapped in half.

6. Quarterpanel flex, leaky t-tops, twisted frames, it's all too common in our cars. Invest in a good set of Sub Frame connectors. Have them professionally installed, bolted, or welded on a loaded lift, not a frame off. On a frame off, once the car is lowered onto the tires and the suspension is preloaded, the welds will break and the bolts as well. For those who have questions on the loaded lifts, it's just a lift you drive up on and the whole car is lifted. Most shops have a roll on lift or a pit.

7. Rearend is a weakpoint when it comes to high horsepower. You can run a rebuilt stocker and be fine. The axles are usually what goes first.

8. Nothing beats a custom tune from a performance shop. Check out some local shops to see if they do any custom tuning. A programmer can cause some issues like pulling the wrong timing, wrong A/F Ratios, etc.

There are more mods than can possibly be listed, but this is a basic list. Pick and choose the route you take and do your research. On this site, you'll find a lot of informative sponsors. When shopping for a cam, look into Thunder Racing, they have some great custom Cams with full explanations and a few with Dyno Graphs. This site is full of info as well, do your research and surf through some posts.

Ok guys, if you want to add any more info into this list, feel free to add!

---

when you say the loaded lift, you mean like an alignment lift, correct?

Hey guys i need help with my 2002 LS1 im not really sure what items to add to it just to get enough power that wont kill my daily driving of the car. do you have any ideas?

Start with a lid, good performance gain that doesn't effect driveablity. If you don't mind it being a little bit louder put a catback like hooker on, but if you want it really loud put a borla or corsa on. Also depending how loud you want a daily driver you can do headers, but make sure to have cats on unless you want to smell like gas. Depending on how many miles your car has a good tune-up will give a small gain and improve driveability.

MAF...what is the deal with these suckers!! My buddy gave me an 06' GTO MAF, which by the way is much larger in diameter than my stocker,and now Im having problems with fuel trim(-14 up to -24) constant at cruising speeds and seems like its bogging down! I even maxxed out my Diablosport powertune enrichment all the way to lean and it only dropped down to -13 and as high as -14. Took to track and definetly felt slower. Had code of engine misfire and stuff like that. Can the MAF really screw things up that bad??

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jrgswhitels1

MAF...what is the deal with these suckers!! My buddy gave me an 06' GTO MAF, which by the way is much larger in diameter than my stocker,and now Im having problems with fuel trim(-14 up to -24) constant at cruising speeds and seems like its bogging down! I even maxxed out my Diablosport powertune enrichment all the way to lean and it only dropped down to -13 and as high as -14. Took to track and definetly felt slower. Had code of engine misfire and stuff like that. Can the MAF really screw things up that bad??

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yes it can really screw things up. Put your stock MAF back on. Not worth the headaches.

you need to retune with a pro tuner like LS1Edit. the Air and Fuel table constants and layout has changed...

i currently am running a ws6 with a k&n filter....with the slp smooth bellows connecting the maf and throttle body......if i purchase the slp lid will that eliminate the bellows and if i do get a lid will that still be a good hp gain even though i already have the ws6 intake and lid? and if so how is the slp lid better???

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Redphoenix1998

1. Best bang for the buck mod by far is a lid. When it comes to the different manufactureres, just remember, a lid is a lid. If you're looking for something cheap and affordable, check out the SLP lids. Great fit overall. I personally run the whisper lid but the fit isn't as good as the SLP.

2. Don't fall for the trick, stay with the stock MAF. DOn't spend the money for a bigger MAF or a Cold air tuned MAF. It will only give you more problems than gains. Detonation is a big issue! The most you should do with the MAF is porting and descreening the MAF which is a free MOD.

3. If you're running a 98-99 LS1, look into an LS6 or FAST manifold. Very good MOD and it makes a difference.

4. Freeing up your exhaust IE headers and cat back not only gives you more bark, but it will help you with the bite later after a cam install.

5. Pushrods are fairly easy to change. If you have an M6, Pushrods should be the first thing to change. The stock length is 7.400". The upgraded Chromoly's are only $150 approximately but it will save you from heartbreak when you ding past redline leading to bend or in my case, pushrods snapped in half.

6. Quarterpanel flex, leaky t-tops, twisted frames, it's all too common in our cars. Invest in a good set of Sub Frame connectors. Have them professionally installed, bolted, or welded on a loaded lift, not a frame off. On a frame off, once the car is lowered onto the tires and the suspension is preloaded, the welds will break and the bolts as well. For those who have questions on the loaded lifts, it's just a lift you drive up on and the whole car is lifted. Most shops have a roll on lift or a pit.

7. Rearend is a weakpoint when it comes to high horsepower. You can run a rebuilt stocker and be fine. The axles are usually what goes first.

8. Nothing beats a custom tune from a performance shop. Check out some local shops to see if they do any custom tuning. A programmer can cause some issues like pulling the wrong timing, wrong A/F Ratios, etc.

There are more mods than can possibly be listed, but this is a basic list. Pick and choose the route you take and do your research. On this site, you'll find a lot of informative sponsors. When shopping for a cam, look into Thunder Racing, they have some great custom Cams with full explanations and a few with Dyno Graphs. This site is full of info as well, do your research and surf through some posts.

Ok guys, if you want to add any more info into this list, feel free to add!

---

WOW! Can't believe no one has said anything about this. #3 lists 98-99 cars as needing LS6 manifold or FAST manifold, should list 98-00 cars. Little Easter Egg there

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Hurley711

WOW! Can't believe no one has said anything about this. #3 lists 98-99 cars as needing LS6 manifold or FAST manifold, should list 98-00 cars. Little Easter Egg there

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Not true I have an ls6 block and intake... stock in my 2002 many 2000 - 2002 came with ls6 intakes and some blocks... so look up part numbers before you go out and buy one for you 00 - 02

About the grill into the MAF sensor, on some cars it's there to keep the air incoming into the intake straight, whithout any swirl or disturbance caused by irregular surfaces in the intake pipes such as waved rubber tubes like the ones on about every car. Sometimes that grill serves as a protection against backfires so it doesn't actually set the airfilter on fire. The last purpose of that grill is simply to be a screen right before the intake, preventing incomings shrapnel or useless stuff for the combustion (like a rock or w/e could get there) to enter the engine.

Now on Fbodies LS1, I don't see any particular uses I mentionned above to be fulfilled by the grill xept for the fact that it serves as a screen. The air comes alredy straight into the engine with the air box and as the engine being longitudinal. Plus, that kind of grill won't protect much from a backfire. So, assuming you have an airfilter in good conditions, you can carefully remove that grill and polish the interior of you MAF safely.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sethta

I would start with airlid and catback first. Then I would do headers and ported throttle body.

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where is a good place to get a ported throttle body and what exactly does it do in regards to horsepower gains and performance? and finally are they hard to install?:buttkick:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by clg82

where is a good place to get a ported throttle body and what exactly does it do in regards to horsepower gains and performance? and finally are they hard to install?:buttkick:

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you can port it yourself or send it out - prices range from $60 -100+ You will get 5-7ish hp. Piece of cake to install. 5 minutes.

You can Google port/polish info. The reason the port/polish would be necessary is, in front of the throttle blade (air filter side) there is alot of "meat" that can be removed to raise the CFM flow rating. Also there is a lip where the throttle blade almost touches the interior of the throttle body that should be removed. Be careful not to mess with the idle air port (bottom right opening) or you will have an erratic idle. If you look in the Pontiac High Performance mag archive, about 4-5 months ago they have an article: 10 free horsepower mods for free that explains everything. Hope this helps!:thumbup:

There is so much controversy over the MAF. If it really helped that much, then it would be a no brainer to replace it. Anybody who guts the screen out of one, pretty much deserves to have their motor blown in the end. I dont know about you, but I dont enjoy bent valves. Is a couple of HP really worth it?? You'll spend 100-300 bucks to gain 5-10 hp max. Instead of blowing your money on that, go get yourself a 50 shot of nitrous which is actually a lot safer than descreening your MAF. "Well its a free HP increase to descreen my MAF"....Common sense people, the screen is there to protect your motor. I understand if you are just gonna drag it on the strip, then whatever...but a daily driver? cmon now. Everything was put together, therefore everything will break in time. That includes your airbox, and that also include those very expensive heads and pistons on your ls1.

Not to beat a dead horse, but I finally gave in and bought a K&N. Well apparently the people who owned the car before me took out some sort of tray(?) and the filter wasnt sealing into the stock lid. Im very glad the screen was on my MAF, because it was full of leaves and shit. Just goes to show, you never know.

Volant air filter is sick

Great list... I know I'm looking forward to starting on the new LS! and I'm happy to see that "Brass Headlight Gear" isn't a necessary mod on the LS1's :)

i agree this is great i just bought my stock camaro that has ben tuned gona take it to the track this weekend to do a baseline for my quater mile time

now i hear all this talk of lids. i have suncoast creations ram air setup. who ever put it in definately screwed it up. it slides all over the place. i saw volant has a nice setup. think it will fit?????

anyone have any experience with racing chips good or bad? How about the gorillaz?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dlcarrales

anyone have any experience with racing chips good or bad? How about the gorillaz?

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there aren't really chips for these cars. You can get a hand held tuner or a full dyno tune from a performance shop.

A hand held such as the predator is good for a car with light mods, but if you keep modding you will grow out of it. Most people say to wait until you have a good amount of mods (such as full bolt-ons) then get a full dyno tune from a shop. A dyno tune will get you the most power!

Thanks,

After further research, I came up with same conclusion on the chips. My neighbor has a tuner, so I guess I will use his until I do all the MODS I can afford and then get the dyno tune.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Redphoenix1998

1. Best bang for the buck mod by far is a lid. When it comes to the different manufactureres, just remember, a lid is a lid. If you're looking for something cheap and affordable, check out the SLP lids. Great fit overall. I personally run the whisper lid but the fit isn't as good as the SLP.

2. Don't fall for the trick, stay with the stock MAF. DOn't spend the money for a bigger MAF or a Cold air tuned MAF. It will only give you more problems than gains. Detonation is a big issue! The most you should do with the MAF is porting and descreening the MAF which is a free MOD.

3. If you're running a 98-99 LS1, look into an LS6 or FAST manifold. Very good MOD and it makes a difference.

4. Freeing up your exhaust IE headers and cat back not only gives you more bark, but it will help you with the bite later after a cam install.

5. Pushrods are fairly easy to change. If you have an M6, Pushrods should be the first thing to change. The stock length is 7.400". The upgraded Chromoly's are only $150 approximately but it will save you from heartbreak when you ding past redline leading to bend or in my case, pushrods snapped in half.

6. Quarterpanel flex, leaky t-tops, twisted frames, it's all too common in our cars. Invest in a good set of Sub Frame connectors. Have them professionally installed, bolted, or welded on a loaded lift, not a frame off. On a frame off, once the car is lowered onto the tires and the suspension is preloaded, the welds will break and the bolts as well. For those who have questions on the loaded lifts, it's just a lift you drive up on and the whole car is lifted. Most shops have a roll on lift or a pit.

7. Rearend is a weakpoint when it comes to high horsepower. You can run a rebuilt stocker and be fine. The axles are usually what goes first.

8. Nothing beats a custom tune from a performance shop. Check out some local shops to see if they do any custom tuning. A programmer can cause some issues like pulling the wrong timing, wrong A/F Ratios, etc.

There are more mods than can possibly be listed, but this is a basic list. Pick and choose the route you take and do your research. On this site, you'll find a lot of informative sponsors. When shopping for a cam, look into Thunder Racing, they have some great custom Cams with full explanations and a few with Dyno Graphs. This site is full of info as well, do your research and surf through some posts.

Ok guys, if you want to add any more info into this list, feel free to add!

---

9. A throttle body works well too 85mm or so would be a good mod 150-200
dollars but makes a difference good torque gain as well.

Does anyone have a link to a list of all or most free mods? I mean, hey are kinda scattered all over the forum and I was just wondering if they have a list somewhere.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by HurricaneLS1

Does anyone have a link to a list of all or most free mods? I mean, hey are kinda scattered all over the forum and I was just wondering if they have a list somewhere.

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Here you go, this is the article:

http://www.gmhightechperformance.com...modifications/

major noob here. both to the forum as well as cars. bought an '00 trans am automatic with what seems to be an after market ram air system. just wondering what i could do to start giving this thing the power it deserves. ~thanks

Did all the free mods above as well as ported throttle body, bigger MAF, headers & cutout.

Need new tires. Best run has been 13.01 in the 1/4

If most say it isn't good to remove the screen in the MAF, then why don't the after market ones have them?

http://dagostinoracing.com/index.php...oducts_id=1287

:iagree:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sjones69

If most say it isn't good to remove the screen in the MAF, then why don't the after market ones have them?

http://dagostinoracing.com/index.php...oducts_id=1287

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lol because aftermarket doesn't care about reliability. same as many aftermarket filters aren't good, especially in dusty areas.


not saying i know if its bad or not but using aftermarket as a source isn't proving anything. now does a lexus with that reliable toyota engine have a screen in its maf? that would be something to look up as proof.

The factory LS6 Maf does not have a screen either.

I found this for the Lexus - I do not see a screen
http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/kno...v2&id=152&c=11

http://www.slponline.com/view_product.asp?P=23060

I put on the SLP MAF. It does have the screen.

i think it might depend on the filter you use. some race filters are thin and a pebble might be able to break through, but i doubt anything would get past a k&n filter.

what would give me a better boost in power... a volant cold air intake or the SLP "flo pac" kit which includes, f body smooth bellows, k&n air filter, and a high flow slp lid box.

I went away from the lids and went with a Volant CAI and got a WS6 style hood from certi-fit and cut out and modified the hood so the CAI seals around the hood and behing the black screen all you see is filter. Works great for me before the hood with just the volant and then even better with the modified hood.

I have a Volant cai, LS6 intake, SLP smooth bellow,P&P throttle body, Granatelli Mass air meter, QTP 1 3/4" headers with 3" ORY, a SLP Power flo exhaust and a custome dyno tune. 346hp
Next is some NOS.
Been busy with adding som UMI double adj. LCA's and Panhard bar so I can have some better traction for the extra power.18x10 wheels help.

I need help with some free mods if anyone can help let me know

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 99TransAmSLP

I need help with some free mods if anyone can help let me know

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Search this site and/or do a google search for LS1 free mods. I did mine 2 years ago and don't remember what site we printed the stuff from. It worked good though. I did everything except the port & polish.

GOOD LUCK

okay thank you :)

here is a link to a site that i used to do some of the free mods. very helpful!

http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...sity/index.htm

I just looked and I already had the free mods done

What Brand Lid and Cat back exhaust is recommended does everyone recommend. I have a stock 2002 collectors transam 6speed conv. Just want ot do a few bolt ons

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Originally Posted by Vasile2

What Brand Lid and Cat back exhaust is recommended does everyone recommend. I have a stock 2002 collectors transam 6speed conv. Just want ot do a few bolt ons

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SLP Lid, SLP Loud Mouth II.
Pontiac is going out of business, keep it stock and in storage if it's a true collectors.

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Originally Posted by sethta

I would start with airlid and catback first. Then I would do headers and ported throttle body.

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so which one is good slp lid`s or k&n ? i spend 380$ on it and so far i know its giving me like 14 hp. am i wrong?

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Originally Posted by Hurley711

WOW! Can't believe no one has said anything about this. #3 lists 98-99 cars as needing LS6 manifold or FAST manifold, should list 98-00 cars. Little Easter Egg there

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You can easily tell if you have an LS6 intake if you dont have the EGR tube just behind the throttle body.

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Originally Posted by adamsoldier

so which one is good slp lid`s or k&n ? i spend 380$ on it and so far i know its giving me like 14 hp. am i wrong?

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Search this board and the "other" board for the for sale section. You should be able to pick up a used lid fairly cheap

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Originally Posted by T/A98

You can easily tell if you have an LS6 intake if you dont have the EGR tube just behind the throttle body.

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Negative

http://www.slponline.com/img/part_img/30041-1.jpg

Thats an LS6 intake with the EGR provision. They don't circulate a lot, but they do exist. The certain way to tell if you are dealing with an LS1 or LS6 intake is to check the part # that is on the manifold itself.

http://www.slponline.com/view_produc...41&BIG=30041-1

How is the Loud mouth II, is it to loud in the car.

I've actually had two trans am ws6's, and i've run with the free ram air mod, then the slp kit and the opened up hole under the air box and no problems at all

anybody tried the K&N cold air induction it looks like it would be a better investment then the SLP, the SLP just seems too stock

i think the gm hotcam is a rather cheap upgrade, get the whole kit for under 500$
either put it in yourself have a buddy do it or a shop. it should be easy to keep it under 1,000


...ok maybe not the cheapest. but worth every penny!

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Originally Posted by kccutthroat

anybody tried the K&N cold air induction it looks like it would be a better investment then the SLP, the SLP just seems too stock

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i have it it coast me 380 but it is worth it . +14 hp and helps me a lot on gas. take less place and nothing pass thru

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Originally Posted by adamsoldier

i have it it coast me 380 but it is worth it . +14 hp and helps me a lot on gas. take less place and nothing pass thru

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57-3022-2 Product Specifications
Product Style: 57 Series FIPK
Estimated Horsepower Gain: 14.74 HP @ 5300 RPM
Type: Gen II
Replacement Filter: RF-1050
CARB EO Number: D-269-20
CARB Exempt: Yes
Weight: 12.4 lb (5.6 kg)
Product Box Length: 35.5 in (902 mm)
Product Box Width: 13.25 in (337 mm)
Product Box Height: 10.5 in (267 mm

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Originally Posted by adamsoldier

i have it it coast me 380 but it is worth it . +14 hp and helps me a lot on gas. take less place and nothing pass thru

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thanks!! I'm gonna pick it up then b/c that slp is just too stock! did u use stock maf and throttle body with it? cuz i cleaned my throttle body and maf and burnt the tires off the back so now i need those too!!

This thread is epicly failing...

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Originally Posted by JoshieDoom

This thread is epicly failing...

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:giveup:

well it did start in 2006

how is it failing when its still talking about basic bolt ons?? cold air induction isn't a bolt on? what would u have added? somebody jus wants to feel important and see his name in a thread!:itsok:

What about stall convertors? I know it is not the most basic bolt on but it makes a huge difference for A4 cars. I did mine in the garage. My car already had H/C/I slp long tube headers and LM1 exhaust but the convertor was a huge difference. I bought a RevMax 3500 convertor with kevlar clutch and antiballoon plates for under $400. It's great around town and sick under throttle. I am very worried about hooking it up at the track. The STR is 2.8 so it hits hard and may actually be better on a stock engine, regardless I love it.

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5. Pushrods are fairly easy to change. If you have an M6, Pushrods should be the first thing to change. The stock length is 7.400". The upgraded Chromoly's are only $150 approximately but it will save you from heartbreak when you ding past redline leading to bend or in my case, pushrods snapped in half.

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How do you do this?

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Originally Posted by Redphoenix1998

Also as a side note, if you have a kit like the BGRA kit or the SLP underbody sold air kit, it's not a good idea, on WS6's and aftermarket WS6 hoods to have both. It may seem like a good idea, an opened up hood to force more air and the underbody cold air at the same time, but what really happens is the air turbulence from two opposing air currents actually makes it less efficient.

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i have both the slp underbody cold air scoop and free ram air mod, and i have never heard of air turbulence...MAYBE ill consider taking the slp underbody scoop out, but ive read a few times on here it actually runs a little better with both, as opposed to one or the other...its just a theory, nobody really knows for sure if there is air turbulence, and if there is turbulence, it makes it less efficient...some one on here has tested using both the hood scoop and slp cold air at the same time, and blocking one off at a time... he said with both open, he got .1 quicker track time...

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Originally Posted by kccutthroat

thanks!! I'm gonna pick it up then b/c that slp is just too stock! did u use stock maf and throttle body with it? cuz i cleaned my throttle body and maf and burnt the tires off the back so now i need those too!!

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Honestly I went with Volant since the K&N is expensive for what it comes wit.

Is there any point to me adding a SLP air intake system on my 2002 t/a WS6 or is the factory one just as good?

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Originally Posted by AFWS6

Is there any point to me adding a SLP air intake system on my 2002 t/a WS6 or is the factory one just as good?

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Get a lid and a ported throttle body and youll be all set. Your car comes stock with the better flowing LS6 intake.

I have a question about a basic bolt on. I have read a lot about the different types of headers, from shorty's to Long tubes. The question I have is does the long tubes drop lower than the original pipes, which cause any clearance issues.

I would love to get long tubes since they are about the same price as shorty's without the y-pipe.

Thanks!! :D

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Originally Posted by CrazyLS1

I have a question about a basic bolt on. I have read a lot about the different types of headers, from shorty's to Long tubes. The question I have is does the long tubes drop lower than the original pipes, which cause any clearance issues.

I would love to get long tubes since they are about the same price as shorty's without the y-pipe.

Thanks!! :D

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Depends on the brand. SLP is known to hang very low. My cheap ebay ones fit very nice.

I do believe this list needs to be "updated" a bit. Depending on your skill llevel and willingness to take things apart, simple/basic bolt ons can range from just a lid to a Torque converter. I would consider a basic bolt on that keeps your car down only for the day that you start if its down at all. you should be able to complete specific mods in one day, depending on the amount of mods and when your doing them that affect other mods. Some mods create the need for other mods, IE lowering springs. THis one probalby create the most irony of simple mods gone crazy lol YOu start out with simple 1.2" drop and wind up getting other stuff to realign geometry. (if you care for those such things as I) An order of mods should be done to help aleviate done time. I listed mine not to just brag :) but to also rate them at their difficulty and to show the amount of "bolt-on" are avilible to newer F-body owners. I did ALL these mods by myself. Some of these i had the luxuray of doing on a lift, others... not so much. the headers for example i did on the ground. that sux. It did take a few year to complete ALL mods.

Rating is 1-10.
1 being Easy. Your 2 year old son could do it, even if hes not born yet.

10 being Hard. If you have a hard time changing your oil... you might want to just hand over the keys to a mechanic. Doable but intensive.

INTAKE MODS these mods are easy just make sure they are tight (spec tight) and sealed correctly. Some of these mods interact with each other, so if you get one, you might need the others.
LS6 Intake manifold -5
LS6 Valley cover w/vent -5
Ls6 steam tubes and blocks - 5
New style KS harness -5
LS Knock sensors -5
vision motorworks 80mm throttle body - 3
SLP lid and smoothe Bellows - 1..... ok like a -2 this ones really easy.
3pin to 5pin MAF harness - 1
GM LS 85mm MAF - 1

EXHAUST these mod can be intensive but relativly easy. So as long as you get bolt ons you can do these in your driveway.
OBX LT headers - 8 this one can kick your ass if your not prepared. research please.
LLP Ypipe with HF cats - 5 as long as you got bolt ons. welding increases difficulty lol
EGR/AIR block off -2

ELECTRONICS This are pretty easy, plug and play. No splicing makes it easy. If you know how to plug your phone into a charger, your good.
Tuned PCM from frost - if you have him do it lol 1.. I dont know how to tune so...
Spare PCM for tuning - 2 only casue its an odd shape to pull
145 amp truck ALT mod - 4
MSD plug wires - 3
NGK tr6ix - 3 with headers, 7 without. do the math, do this when you get headers

CHASSIS AND SUSPENTION Some are easy, others are an all day affair. Take your time. A safe ride is better then a broke one.
UMI RR K-member - 9 alot going on with this one. take your time.
UMI 2pt Subframe connector - 5
UMI tunnel brace with loop - 5
UMI Trans Relo Mount - 6
UMI Upper A arms Poly - 4
UMI Lower A arms poly/roto -7
UMI Adj PH rod -2
UMI Panhard relocation bar -2
UMI Adj Torque Arm -5
UMI Torque arm bolts - 2
F/P LCA Relocation braket -3
Jegsters Panhard relocation bracket
upperball joints - 2
Prothane Poly motor mount bushings 4 with headers and UMI Kmember, 7 without
BMR hollow sway bars 35/22 -3
Vogtland 1.2" lowering springs -4
Koni sa shocks f/R (used) -4

BRAKES if you own your car, you better know how to change your brakes. enough said.
ls1 to C5 brake bracket - 3
C5 D/S Front Rotors - 2
Hawks HPS Pads f&r - 2
Russel steel brake lines -4
New wheel hubs - 4

TRANS the trans is where it gets interesting. pay attention and remember, its only a trans :) im an auto so this is what i got. M6s can kinda follow along
Revmax 3200 Stage 5 TC- 10 this ones rough. 8 bolts hold the bellhousing on the 4L60E.
B&M Trans cooler kit - 3 picking the location is the hardest thing.
Shiftglo trans temp gauge - 3 wiring skills come into play here. Sensor threads right in.
speedinc Vent gauge adaptor - 1
SFI Flexplate - 6 gotta get the trans out of the way first lol
ARP flexplate bolt - 3
ARP torque convert bolts - 4 never thought 3 bolts would kick your butt huh?

Drivetrane I have yet to up grade on this care but ive taking out a few driveshafts and rearends to know enough.
Drive shafts - 3 if its stuck a light tap with a woodblock and hammer with get it loose.
new u-joints - 3
Entire rearend swaps - 5 this is with direct bolt ins, not 9INs or other none direct bolt ins
Ring and Pinion -8 technical. not somthing you can just throw in and say good.
Axles - 4
rearend covers - 3
just remember to use posi additive or your rearend will tell you about it. litterally.

pretty much 1-6 are gonna be "basic" bolt ins for the average wannabe mechnick.
7-10s are for those that have been around their cars for a minute. this is by no means an order, but its a good start to know what to look for. this is pretty average for bolt ins.

I got the 400hp package with bbk ssi intake, Delphi maf, sfcs and no cats. What do you think about that and what do you think I should do next? I was thinking 373s.

can my transmission be beefed up enough to walk all over some m6's i know i need a converter and possibly a shift kit but will the stock tranny hold up to the punishment, i just fried the clutchs in it , it now slips in 3rd and drive. so im gonna be doing a rebuild thanks.

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Originally Posted by 02Hawk

Not true I have an ls6 block and intake... stock in my 2002 many 2000 - 2002 came with ls6 intakes and some blocks... so look up part numbers before you go out and buy one for you 00 - 02

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My 2000 ws6 has ls1 intake with egr

Does anybody have any thoughts on subframe connectors?