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Can anyone help? My car cut off on me, I started it again it ran for a min and then it stalled out again, I did that a few times then it stopped turning over. I couldn't hear the fuel pump runing so I checked it and it was bad so I orrdered the racetronix replacement set up and now it starts but kills after a few seconds. What could be causing it to kill like that
VATS issue?
Not sure how can I test it?
Start with the basics, clean the contacts on your key, or try the spare key to see if it'll start.
Takes fuel, air and spark to make her run... wouldn't hurt to scan it for codes. Since it isn't running now you can't see if the SES is lit. Here is a good VATS thread: http://www.ls1.com/forums/f6/how-byp...ur-vats-61262/
I dont have a security light on and the car starts but only runs for a few seconds and then stalls out like its starving for gas. It did give me a trouble code po1080 the map sens the low
Trying to find its location now
The MAP sensor is on the very back of the intake manifold, passenger side. Just for giggles - check your ENG SENS fuse in the underhood electrical box. If that is ok - get a fuel pressure gauge on the rail and energize the ignition, check the reading, and then attempt to start it while watching the pressure.
Thanks ill find a gauge tomorrow and check the fuse, ill let u knowQuote:
Originally Posted by pajeff02
The fuse was ok didnt get that gauge yet or find the map had traffic court today, ii took a look under the hood for the map sens, its not in plane site, is it ?Quote:
Originally Posted by bvar20
You won't see it without a mirror and a flashlight. It is on the very back of the intake manifold up against the firewall. Be careful back there as several members have broken off their OPSU (Oil Pressure Sending Unit) which is located next to the MAP sensor.
I got a fuel pressure gauge and checked for pressure and the gauge never moved. I took loose the fuel line from the filter and turned the key on and I got gas coming out thru the filter but no pressure at the gauge, what u think about that?
Filter has been replaced? You didn't say which side of the filter you unhooked the line from. When you unhooked the line, was it coming out with force? Our cars run 58 psi for fuel pressure so it should have been squirting out fairly hard.
I took the line off the side going to the fuel rail, I had gas coming thru the filter like a faucet turned on, it wasnt like coming out of a sprayer but seemed to me to be pretty goodQuote:
Originally Posted by pajeff02
No I haven't repkaced the filter to me it didnt seem to be the problem, I did notice that on my car, not sure if it the same on all but it looks like a pressure regulator connected to the fuel rail and in my service manual it says that the pressure regulator is in the gas tank on the 98
sure you had the gauge on the end of the rail good depressing the schrader valve? Doesn't make sense you'd have fuel on the rail side of the filter and not at the rail. Check that schrader valve with a screwdriver and see if gas spews out of it before putting your gauge on. You may have a bad valve and/or gauge.
Out of curiosity does the engine rev up high when you start it? Also will giving it a little gas prolong it from cutting off? This can be related to a bad MAP sensor if so and I had a similar experience with mine.Quote:
Originally Posted by bvar20
No it started rough and dies after a few seconds and giving it gas didnt prolong it killing on me, I decided to pull the pump back out because I heard gas droping back in the tank, it was the pressure regulator it opened up so I closed it back and put the clamp back on it, I must have knocked it loose putting the racetronics pump on the sending unit. I droped it back in and it started but now the temp is shooting up to the red the fans are working, I changed the thermostat, and I dont see any leaks at the pump. I did notice that the temp sensor is damaged, but that shouldn't cause an overheating would it?
Sounds like the cooling system is airlocked. Our cars can be very finicky this way. With the engine cold, open the radiator cap and squeeze the hoses a couple of times to see if it burps air. You can also rock the car on its suspension a bit. Start the engine and after it runs just enough to rev on it safely crack the throttle several times and keep squeezing the hoses to work the air pocket out. If the temp shoots up, shut it down! Be careful not to blow coolant out the radiator fill cap and watch the belts so you don't lose any fingers.
It was the coolant temp sensor causing the overheating. After I changed that I nitice the radiator cap was leaking, one thing after another with this thing, also I keep getting a misfire cyl 7. Now I changed the radiator cap twice its still leaking when I ooen the throttle, the miss fire has me puzzled aswell I put a new plug in that cyl it ran like a monster for a few min then the misfire came back same cyl. My next move is gonna be back to the fuel filter and change it, from there open for suggestions. The plug looked black but dry like sut
Make sure that the ignition wire on that cylinder is properly seated. You should hear/feel one "click" on the plug and two "clicks" on the coil pack.
leaks out the cap when you rev it? Is it pressurizing the coolant system when you rev the car?Quote:
Originally Posted by bvar20
as far as your #7 misfire.....has the car been over rev'd at some point maybe and bent a pushrod? Might want to check that and that number 7 injector....those could be things causing your misfire there.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 0rion
Yes it leaks out when I rev it up
Hope that isnt a bad head gasket.
what does your oil look like? Is it milky looking? I don't want to just throw head gasket out there but if it's pressurizing the coolant system that's looking awfully suspicious. It could just be a bad seal between the cap and radiator I guess and the extra flow of coolant is what's leaking when the pump speeds up but my first guess would be head gasket.
No the oil isn't milky but I closed the hooks on the cap and its not leaking but I did get coolant came out the the reserve bottle cap
Pressure in the overflow bottle is NOT a good sign. If you have the rad cap off and goose the throttle, does water fly out of the top of the rad like "old faithful"?
Yes, do u think the radiator can b cloged and cause this?
The cooling system will always pressurize as the engine warms up. A blown head gasket can mean that additional pressure is being added to the cooling system during the compression stroke by whatever cylinder is adjacent to the blow out. A bad radiator cap will allow fluid to leak out as pressure builds up, so it does not necessarily mean the head gasket is shot. Symptoms of a blown head gasket include loss of coolant, white smoke out the exhaust and a sweet odor, overheating, pushing excessive coolant into the overflow bottle, and all the carbon deposits being cleaned off the spark plug in the affected cylinder.
A small amount of coolant coming out of the rad when u rev it is normal, BUT what i'am saying is if you rev it to about 2500 rpm's with the rad cap off, does the water shoot out like a garden hose at full pressure about a foot high in the air? If so, then I think the gasket is bad.
I'll try your test in a couple hours when I get back homeQuote:
Originally Posted by RONS98TA
Good luck and I hope for the best for ya, but I think your gonna need a head gasket. Might as well upgrade to a nicer set while your at it.
I took the cap off the radiator and when I reved it up it didnt shoot out like you said. It was the small hosecoming from the reserve bottle when I reved it the coolant coming from the reserve flows a lil stronger thats all I saw. Now as for the coolant coming out of the reserve cap not sure why, going to check and see if I put too much coolant inQuote:
Originally Posted by RONS98TA
The overflow bottle is NOT suppose to be filled to the top. It has markings on the dip stick that is attached to the cap for the proper level.
the lines on the radiator might be backwards...below the radiator cap there will be two small hoses....the top one should run to the overflow the bottom one should run to the tb unless its bypassed then it would run to a coolant crossover on front of motor on the drivers side of the tb.....when i replaced the rad in my car i had an issue with coolant overflowing/boiling out of the overflow and it was just those two hoses being flipped haha spent alot of money on coolant for a year before i figured out the issue lol felt like a complete f***ing moron haha
Yep, what robs98mysticZ said. I didn't even think of that for the coolant bottle problem. Is the car still misfiring on # 7 cylinder? How about maybe when the fuel pump was changed out, a small piece of dirt got into #7 fuel injector. Pull the injectors out and switch out #7 injector with a know good 1, like #1 injector. See if the misfire move to another cylinder. Easy enough free fix.
[QUOTE=robs98mysticZ;2886784]the lines on the radiator might be backwards...below the radiator cap there will be two small hoses....thdidn't ile should run to the overflow the bottom one should run to the tb unless its bypassed then it would run to a coolant crossover on front of motor on the drivers side of the tb.....when i replaced the rad in my car i had an issue with coolant overflowing/boiling out of the overflow and it was just those two hoses being flipped haha spent alot of money o0n coolant for a year before i figured out the issue lol felt like a complete
thanks Rob thats exactly what it was. I guess I hooked them up wrong when I changed my condenser been like this for almost a year and didn't notice it till recent, don't get a whole lot of quality time with her I guess. THANKS A LOT
Need some guidance for the injector swap test. Is there any video or istructions online?Quote:
Originally Posted by RONS98TA
I dont have any vids but it's pretty straight forward. Pull off the fuel line from the fuel rail. (You need a special tool for this.) Then just 4 bolts hold in the fuel rail and injectors. Pull the entire rail with the injectors attached. Then swap out the 2 injectors. Im sure there are video's out there on you tube, I just don't have any personally. Good to hear at least the coolant bottle problem is solved.
Haven't gotten to the injectors, my lil landslide continue! Lost 3rd gear for the third time is anyone else having 3rd gear failure or is it just me. My transmission guy says is thinking that maybe its the computer. He thinks I should have it flashed by the dealer and see what happens
Do you have an auto or manual? Is your car stock or has it been modded. Mine is an auto and my car has been heavily modded with a cam (at that time) and all the bolt on's. I went through 5 transmissions before I finally got a good built one with all the best parts. 3rd gear keep blowing up. After the last build, I got a mail order tune from frost and I haven't had an issue in over 4 years now. The tune def has a lot to do with it. Good luck.
my car is sock as far as i know. do you know if this prolem is just limitded to the 98 models?
It doesnt matter what year the car is 98-2002 the auto's cant hold the power. Most of the time if your stock and DONT beat on it, you should be okay. You can start by changing the trans filter and the fluid to synthetic, but it prob time to upgrade the tranny. The man trans are usually good up to 400 h/p or so, but still could have the synchro's go out on them also.