Printable View
I recently installed a stall. since then my car wont idle,especially when cold. TPS volts are at .55 throttle closed IAC counts around 120. the idle surges from 500 to 1200 rpms and dies. I can 2 foot it and keep it running most of the time but it continues to die. took it to a tuner last week ran fine for 1 day and started doing it again, going back monday. tried a IAC but that didnt fix it. was just curious if anyone else has ever had this problem and what the fix was.
Almost sounds like a vacuum leak. You might start by checking all the vacuum lines.
no vacuum leaks. fuel trims -3% to +3%. :-(. everything was fine. disconnected battery for a week while i rebuilt trans and added stall then no idle and it has gotten worse over the week.
What exhaust are you running? I ask as I am wondering if an O2 might have been damaged while removing your Y-pipe to get to the trans. What did your tuner tell you after they did their work?
I can't remember if there is a vehicle speed sensor in the F-bodies.
what other mods do you have and do you know what adjustments the tuner made? Where is car's idle supposed to be?Quote:
Originally Posted by 383ls6
car is at the tuner as we speak. they want to keep it for a few days so patiently waiting. fingers crossed. will post up when i get it back. thanks for all the replies.
Get back to us with what the tuner found.
kooks,catless with 4" mufflexQuote:
Originally Posted by cammed goat
still havent gotten my car back yet. they got it to idle while cold but when you drop it in gear it dies. they are saying my computer is not fast enough to keep the idle stable???? idled fine before. now im getting really concerned. bout ready to tell them to bump the idle to 800-900 rpms and see what happens.
hopefully that's not exactly what they're saying because if it is I would take your car somewhere else. Did it just start doing it immediately after the stall? It doesn't really sound stall related to me.....it sounds like unmetered air to me such as a vacuum leak. 800-900 is too much on a non-cammed car. I have my cammed car set at 825-850. You might have to have the car idle at 700ish with the stall to help it keep from dying when putting it into gear but shouldn't need more than that. I'll try to look through my old tunes and see where I had my idle when I was stall only.....I want to say it was 700 but that's a guess.Quote:
Originally Posted by 383ls6
I have a fully built 383 in it. cam is .556/.556 lift 228/238 duration cam. 92/92 FAST intake. AFR 210 cc heads 10.7:1 CR. 440rwhp/420rwtq. when i got the car back the first time hooked my tech 2 up and it said the desired idle was 679 rpms which seems a bit low to me but my training is in OE repair. not so much aftermarket on the new stuff.
did it run fine then? That idle does seem a bit low. Is that cam on a 114? In that case I would have them go to 850 or so and see what happens....bet it idles much better. How much experience tuning do they have with cammed cars? Idle airflow tuning will fix a lot of idle issues but it has to be done correctly.
its on 110 lsa. havent used these guys before but they come highly recommended and have some pretty nice cars in there. gm only. maybe its time for me to get hp tuners of efi live.
wow....what's the advertised duration numbers for that cam? I want to calculate the overlap. Can't get an accurate number using .50 numbers. The advertised numbers will be on your cam card.
Did you try unplugging the maf and seeing if putting it into speed density helped? Sounds more lIke a vacuum leak or maybe the below came loose at the tb.
its an ASA cam with 1.8:1 rockers.sorry its 226/236 duration. didnt come with a card. probally couldve made a better cam choice. i miss the old days lol give me a carb and a distributor and we wouldnt be having this conversation.Quote:
Originally Posted by 0rion
no didnt try that but iwill when i get my car back if im still having problems. dont think its a vacuum leak though as my fuel trims are okQuote:
Originally Posted by GTP231
Well, if they know what they're doing, they'll correct the idle problem and advise you of any changes necessary for that engine.
picking the car up tomorrow they said they set the idle around 1k rpms and that it will die if you do a cold start and immediately put it in gear. have to let it run for a couple of minutes and then its fine. Anyone know of a tuner in the dallas area? couldnt hurt to get a second opinion.
it very well could just be a tuning issue. It doesn't sound like the idle airflow tables are correct. A good tuner though should be able to get it figured out. That being said....I wouldn't want to tune that cam. It has the potential to be a real pain in the ass.
i've heard that about that cam. what would you suggest for a cam. i would like to keep the 1.8:1 rockers. the heads max at .650 lift wouldnt want to go much more than .600.
If the O.D. of the performance stall converter is smaller than the stock 12" door stop, you need to have your idle raised, at least this was done to Sara (on the dyno) after installing a Y3000.
SteveC :)
I don't disagree with you....I think the stall may have just shown a prior issue though. I think it's more in those idle air tables for that cam.Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveC
got it back. no more dying. yay. but in gear the idle is at 1150 rpms and in park 900 rpms. it doesnt thump like i would like it too with the increased rpms but at least it doesnt die. hard to look kewl when your car wont idle at a red light.
those probably aren't bad idle rpm's for that cam.....probably could get it a little lower but not much I bet. Like you say....better idling with less lope than dying with no lope. :D
Point well taken.Quote:
Originally Posted by 0rion
Your rpms are higher in "idle" than "park" ?Quote:
Originally Posted by 383ls6
SteveC :)
Glad to hear you got it fixed.
yes it idles at 1150 in gear and 900 in park. the engine seems to want to push to idle right.Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveC
define "push" do you mean it's trying to push through the brakes at idle in gear? What size stall did you put in? PM me who you had tune it.....Quote:
Originally Posted by 383ls6
no meant the engine seems to want to be under a slight load so it doesnt surge. its a 3k yank.pm sent
I'd try a different tuner. Torquer 2 is a pretty good cam also. Lift with stock rockers is .595 and .598 exhaust so you should be able to keep your springs and rockers barring any possible ptv issues. Though with the 383 I'd look for something bigger overall.
I love the 383 but i think ive outgrown it already lol. so i think im going to start saving for a 441 cid build. prolly take a couple years to acquire the funds but i'm patient. so thanks everyone for all advice and replies.
I have a Yank 3000 installed in my vehicle, it is a 10 1/2" converter (opposed to 12" stock), and the dyno tuner set my hot idle @ 700 rpm and my in gear idle @ 600 rpm.Quote:
Originally Posted by 383ls6
When the engine is first started (cold), the idle is @ 1100 rpm (and tries to push the vehicle forward with it in park with the parking brake on) , and decreases as the vehicle warms up to the above set rpm.
SteveC :)
what cam do you have?
Doesn't sound fixed to me, not with a 1150rpm in gear idle! What they did is put a band-aid on it. I'd consider it fixed with a hot idle of 900rpm or less! BTW, that's a medium sized cam in a stock displacement LS1, in a 383 it's seem even smaller.Quote:
Originally Posted by 383ls6
while I agree with you that they did band aid it and the idle could be lower.....that cam has a lot of overlap which will make it tricky to tune the idle for an a4 car.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue28
It does have 11* of overlap, but that's not something extreme, it's actually very common in this day-an-age. Furthermore if there's a mechanical or sensor problem preventing them from setting the hot idle to 900rpm or less, then they should have some good insight on what the issue would probably be. IMO, a good tuner should be an equally good trouble-shooter.
how do you figure the overlap using .050 numbers?
Easy, the cam is a 226/236 110lsa.
226+236=462, 462/2=231.
The lsa is 110, so 110 x 2 = 220.
231-220 = 11
11* overlap
What intake manifold do you have op?
FAST 92/92 nick williams TBQuote:
Originally Posted by GTP231