For example Bilstein HD Shocks in the rear and Koni in the front? And if you can would you want to get the same springs or get two different kinds as well? I have one of thous donuts you sit on so I am not worried about ride comfort.:spank2:
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For example Bilstein HD Shocks in the rear and Koni in the front? And if you can would you want to get the same springs or get two different kinds as well? I have one of thous donuts you sit on so I am not worried about ride comfort.:spank2:
It is ok to mix front and back, but not side to side.
I run AFCO coilovers w/ 300lb springs on the front and KYB AGX shocks w/ stock springs on the rear.
Thank you! I would be interested to see what others are running out there. I am about to put in my Moser 12 bolt and figured since I was taking it all out it would be a good time to knock out the rear suspension.
Jeremy's advice is solid. We routinely mix brands front to rear but never side to side.
What else are you doing to your car?
Let us know if you need anything.
ramey
So far I have sub-frame connectors, sway bars, tower brace, polly motor and trans mount, P1SC, 60lb injectors, LS6 intake, 85mm TB, custome ehoust and 245/40ZR18 Tires. In my garage is a Moser 12 bolt and TransGo shift kit. Future Mods will be Valve Springs, rings and barrings ( for a little extra boost 12lbs to 15lbs). I like the ruff ride and care nothing about comfort. My goal is to have my DD capable in any situation. What would you use suggest?
Wow Michael, sounds like a fun ride. Since you have bars and SFC's already are you happy with the balance? It's cool you don't care about harshness, that makes it easy to work on the balance. If you're having forward traction trouble you may want to try our lowering brackets, you know for when the BOOST kicks in.
Give Jerry a call, he loves making cars like yours go fast.
ramey
I have never had a car this fast or that handled this well, even with stock shocks and springs. That I am looking to get rid of is when I go over a bump the suspenshion traviles up longer than it should(IMO). I would think its that shocks allowing that, I just want to stick to the road. Thank you for the lowering bracket sugestion I read up on them and that should help with the GO BABY GO. I guess when its all said and dont I will make the hydraulic wheelie bar (not that I would have a use for it, I just think it would be funny as hell at a stop light).
Hey Michael. Shocks can help with travel over sharp bumps but the key is they must be sharp to where it launches the suspension up into the wheel well. Total wheel travel during steady state cornering can only be reduced by adding spring rate or sway bar rate (in the case of limiting body roll).
These F-bodies are pretty good cars from the factory suspension-wise. We just make them better!
Have a good weekend. Let me know if you need anything.
ramey
Thank you Ramey, you have been a big help. I have to do a bit of traviling but when I return I would like to start my Rearend project. I will keep you guys in mind when it comes to closer to D-Day.
I have a D1SC running 9psi and dead hook on the street when my tires were newer, even with a 4.11 gear in 1st (M6). I'm running SFC, adjustable torque arm, adjustable phb, LCA's, relocation brackets for the LCA's, Koni 4/4's, and Strano springs. Settings on the rear are full soft. Also running drag radials.
Probably will upgrade my sway bars at some point.
Off topic, but what motor upgrades do you have to run 12-15psi? Any internal work done? Pistons? Cam? Connecting rods?
How are you hooking? I blow the tires off at 60mph...Quote:
Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS
What tires are you running? You have a fully built suspension right? Have you verified your pinion angle? My LCA's are in the 2nd hole from the bottom. I'm only running a 275 Nitto 555R DR. I don't even get a bark shifting into 2nd at WOT.Quote:
Originally Posted by ls1camino
335/35/17 Michelin Pilot Sports. I'm limited in my tire selection. I have 28/10.5/15 ET Drags for the track.Quote:
Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS
Yes, fully built.
Pinion angle is between 2* and 3* down angle.
Bottom hole here. The LCAs are angled down towards the rear, but not by much.
Your tires are your problem I'm guessing. Now that my Nitto's are getting low on tread I'm in the same boat as you. I can be cruising at 50 and hit the loud pedal and just spin. Get yourself some different tires (if at all possible) and you'll see the difference. I can almost guarantee that.Quote:
Originally Posted by ls1camino
When I first got my car back from Frost (4K miles ago) and had meat on my Nitto's I hooked extremely hard. I'm getting myself new DR's come spring.
I figured as much. I'll just keep my high tread wear tires on for the street and switch over to my slicks for the track.Quote:
Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS
My Nitto's lasted me about 12,000 miles (roughly). I mean they are still on the car and still hook nicely when it is warmer out. Anything below 50 degrees though and traction becomes an issue with the tread I have on them now. I'm hoping to look for a set of dedicated wheels for the track come spring. Depends how funds are.
Sorry for the delayed responce I am training in LA, I am only pushing 8 now but will go to 12-15. My internal upgrades will be springs, rings and bearings. As for the rest I will go with pan hard, torque arm, relocation brackets, Koni's 4/4 in the front and Blisten in the back with strano springs. That should tighten me up in the areas I need.
Aftermarket rods and pistons are probably a good idea while you have them out while replacing your bearings and rings.Quote:
Originally Posted by Double0me
Agree. Almost everyone I've seen push 12+ psi have cracked piston #8.Quote:
Originally Posted by ls1camino
I'm going to take the next two years and build an LS6. My LS1 should last that long. Once i swap I will drop the LS1 in a mustang or smart car. Just for fun. I would defenatly drop new pistons and rods as well. But I really wana see if it will hold with the minumum.
Why? Seems like a waste of time and money.Quote:
Originally Posted by Double0me
A few on here and other sites had the same mentality. It didn't work very well for them. It was short lived. Hopefully you'll be luckier :)
No you guys are right, pistons and rods are cheaper than a new block.