Printable View
Well, apparently broke the hood release cable on the '99 Formula I just picked up. Currently not able to release the hood latch in order to raise the hood.
I tried pulling the cable, but it doesn't feel like it's still attached to the hood release mechanism, so I pushed it back through the friewall and into the engine compartment.
So the question remains: How do I pop the hood in its current state? :dunno:
You MIGHT have to crawl up under the front end of the car with a screwdriver depending on what is under the front bumper. Try to pry against the hood release mechanism with the screwdriver. I know on the 93-97 Formies and T/As have a plastic shield that runs behind the foglights(T/A) and that needs to be pulled back.
well damn...:lol:
i'll see what if anything i can do tomorrow. thanks for the heads up.
well, i will have to go from the under the car. i will have to remove a few plastic pieces to gain access and then figure out how to 'pop' it. a flathead might work, but there is a lip that a hooked tool of some sort might to the trick.
now, all i have to do is wait for it to cool down some. its no fun working in 104 heat
Keep us posted. Yeah. It FINALLY cooled down over here.
Ouch! I have no idea how to access that. Once you get it figured out, it wouldn't be a bad idea to post up what worked to open it. With our cars getting older it'll probably happen again to someone else soon.
well, the great thing is, i have the SS right next to it, so I don't have to go far to see exactly what i need to be looking for..:lol:
Subscribed. Once you figure out the tool needed (guessing some sort of hooked shape to access the latch mechanism) and have it hooked onto the release mechanism, you may want to try to press down on the hood prior to trying to pull the mechanism.
That should release some of the pressure on the latch and make it easier to release.Quote:
Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS
Since you are going to have to replace the whole cable; If you are able, look for the cable and pull out the excess till you either reach the broke end or have enough to peel back the sheathing and then take vice grips and pull on cable. That should release the latch. This method has worked for me twice on an old truck that I used to have.
I have a tool for it but im a fireman and i will get it open. its just a matter of how pretty it will look.:devil:
http://www.wfrfire.com/RESCUE/hand/hooligan_genesis.jpg
Im going to look at my car today and see if I can figure out something to help out with minimal damage.
ok i did this small video that hopefully helps you out.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DhbU8m_WPy4
awesome!!! :cheers:
that black plastic shoud is what i will have to remove to gain access from underneath.
yes i will have to pop out from the bottom of the bumper and the side inner fender wells too.
i will have to go from the driverside underneath to hit the release.
if i get pissed enough, i'll dremel right through that crap and call it a day...:lol:
Keep us posted. :lmao:
Nice work Jay!
After watching that vid, I would almost be tempted to run a loop of wire down through a hole drilled in the plastic panel and attached to the latch lever. Kind of a fail safe if the hood latch cable ever did break.
I agree with Jeff.
Got the bastard!!!
Lucked out as the cable was not broke right at the releas latch. Loosened the plastic underneath and with the general idea of where it was at, I had to blindly feel around. Found the cable, pulled it out and then pulled on it. No binding at the release point.
Will post pics later. Now it's time to locate the coolant leak. :xfingers:
Im glad you got it open. :slash:Quote:
Originally Posted by SSwt00SS
Thanks Jeff. I like your idea. make sure nobody knows you are doing because it will be an easy to gain access to your engine and steal stuff if the car sits outside.Quote:
Originally Posted by pajeff02
i hate how I sound on video lol
I can smell the coolant on the passenger side but after 20 minutes of running in 100+ dgree weather in the garage, no leaks. Nothing. Before you could see an ever so small puddle...:confused:
Found it. Cracked radiator. :(
here are some pics:
hood open:
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...S/DSC02941.jpg
hood latch release - top view:
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...S/DSC02942.jpg
front bumper and black should retainer clips need to be pulled to gain access. also remove the 10mm bolts that
hold the front inner splash guards and the first (2) that attach it to the air dam as well
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...S/DSC02944.jpg
this is where you will need to blindly feel around for the latch release (or in my case the
hood release cable), to then release it
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...S/DSC02943.jpg
cracked radiator, which leaks, runs down the core support and gives me the (2) puddles you see.
happy its not the water pump/hoses, all that stuff was bone dry baby!!!
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...S/DSC02945.jpg
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...S/DSC02946.jpg
and just for you PAJeff, I told you I would take pics of the clearance of my exhaust (from another thread I cant find it now)...:D
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...S/DSC02947.jpg
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...S/DSC02948.jpg
Coolant leaks at hose junctions and such are more prevalent when things are cold versus heated up. Just about every leak I have ever had on a car would weep when cold and then stop when hot -- even with the added pressure in the cooling system. Go figure. I see that you found your leak after I jumped to the next page.Quote:
Originally Posted by SSwt00SS
That is L-O-W! No way I could even think about driving that car around here on our roads. :no:
Yeah that looks a couple inches lower than mine and I am lowered. Are you lowered as well SS?
Good to hear you were able to pop the hood. Takes me back to when I had to replace a fog light assembly on a 95 T/A. MAN...was that a BITCH!! That car looks CLEAN!!! What exhaust is that? SLP terminating before the rear axle?
yes, i have the Eibach Pro-kitQuote:
Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS
the exhaust on the SS: XS stainless steel LT's, into a TSP true dual setup, with dual SLP LM resonators terminating before the rear axle. from behind it looks awesome. two black holes inches off the ground...:cool:Quote:
Originally Posted by cammed goat
im wondering if i should fix it right and just get a new one, or see if JB Weld might do the trick.
personally, i'm a replace it kind of guy when it comes to items such as this, since it a component that is under pressure.
I love Dr. Pepper
I would just replace it. Peace of mind.
I remember you promised me a pic...glad I saw it.Quote:
Originally Posted by SSwt00SSand just for you PAJeff, I told you I would take pics of the clearance of my exhaust (from another thread I cant find it now)...:D
http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread...=1#post2672522
And, by the way, we need pics of the car too. :yup:
oh, that was for you Cutlass, my bad. thanks for the link to the thread. i forget things, especially when i've slept since then...:ughlaugh:
here you go cammed, even though there are plenty of pics all over this site :D :
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...S/DSC00369.jpg
and to be proactive with you guys, here's a sound clip of the exhaust...:devil: :
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_w8gIZJHC5g
Oh. You have pics of the Formy too? I was looking for those.
No, none of the Formy yet. I need to fix the radiator, get a passenger side foglight, remove the side molding, then polish and wax before I take pics of it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SSwt00SS
You did something of what I said in post 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by SMWS6TA
Glad it's fixed
yeah, couldn't really see, but knew i had to 'head towards the light' while feeling around. the cable was long enough to pull out and then pulled on it by hand. got the vice grips out for nothing...:bino:
i should have a new radiator coming in today, too!
radiator is out, plan to put the new one in tmrw.
everything is going well. almost too well...
:haha:Quote:
Originally Posted by SSwt00SS
I picked up a new radiator but it has an extra tube on the backside lower left corner that the OEM does not has. I'm gonna pick up a used one tomorrow and see if it's good. Only $20, so not like I'd be out much if it's no good.
If it's good, I'll return the new one and get $$$ back. If not, then I need to find a way to plug and cap the new radiator to use. I'll post pics later. Getting ready for a 5-game guaranteed softball tourney that starts in 30 minutes.
:cheers:
new radiator is in, no leaks, no problems. also changed the oil.
now i need to trace a possible oil leak. still looking for a set of formula foglights as well.
you can install a set of pep boys 55watt fogs.......4 1/2.......fit perfect.......ask me how i know :P
can you provide a part/model number. their website sucks.
well, i believe the waterpump is the cause of the coolant leak i now seem to have.
with the car idling, i traced a leak to the bottom of the waterpump, but could not locate the direct source of the leak because the waterpump pulley was in the way.
am i to assume that the weephole for the for the waterpump is in that location?
yes it is
Seems like the best idea for you would be to go to your local auto parts store, they sell UV fluid that you put into your radiator. Run it for a little while and grab a black light. Trace the glow. Thats what i ended up doing, found a pin size hole in one of my hoses
well, i pulled the waterpump, and the cover that is on the backside looks dry. i have not removed the 5 bolts that hold the cover on. not sure if i need to. also noticed that the gasket on the drivers side looks like it could be suspect. all the orange gaksets were smaller than the metal gaskets that surround them.
so now i need to figure out what i need/should do next. do i pop off the cover, just replace the gaskets, or what? i've actually never done a waterpump on these cars before. i have the waterpump off my 2000 SS with maybe 34k on it upstairs that i could put back on.
thoughts and suggestions are most welocme.
Honestly, I would just replace the pump and gaskets whether the cause be the pump itself or the gaskets. Better to be safe than sorry.
i want....Quote:
Originally Posted by JayTA98I have a tool for it but im a fireman and i will get it open. its just a matter of how pretty it will look.:devil:
Im going to look at my car today and see if I can figure out something to help out with minimal damage.
ill take some pics of the water pump and the gaskets that came off with it. i think the water pump is still good, just bad gaskets. these gaskets look nothing like the gaskets that are off the water pump to the SS.Quote:
Originally Posted by cammed goat
i'm also gonna test the thermostat to make sure that it's doing its job and not increasing pressure which would cause a 'forced' leak elsewhere.
i keep picturing what those would do to a pumpkin...:lol:Quote:
Originally Posted by Spikito
Keep us updated.
Thats what I would do also.Quote:
Originally Posted by cammed goat
I'm not sure on the Formulas but on the GTO I had to get it up on stands. look under the bumper cover and found a plastic cover that blocks off the bottom (I'm guessing to flow more air through the radiator) . It has 4 push in clips. Removed those and removed the cover . Looked up in the top area and found where the cable runs. Removed the screws from the small cooler on the front and bent the small bracket out of the way enough that i could get my arm inside. I could reach the release from there , pulled down on the hood with one hand and pushed the release with the other. Took a couple tries but it popped open fairly easy. If you don't have the correct tools to pull the pins on the clips expect some skint hands.Quote:
Originally Posted by SSwt00SS
He got his hood open 6 years ago[emoji12]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
