278mm circle d or ss3600?

Pretty touch choice here, I'm looking heavily into both converters and I just cant seem to make up my mind. My concern is that the ss3600 will tank fuel economy which isnt all that great with gas being what it is. However I know the 3600 will be leaps and bounds better than the 3200 stalling higher and with better shift points. what are your all opinions on this? Here a few vids of both. The 3600 doesnt seem all that much looser until u dig into it which is what I'm concerned about I dont want to rev to 3k to pass people. Can the tune be set to not allow the transmission to leave lockup with just a certain amount of throttle?
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R0FtFVvlGmU&feature=related[/ame]
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EsW9wOsbQ4s&feature=related[/ame]
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5buSpRFirmM&feature=related[/ame]
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NVZF-KvmQPA[/ame]
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jp4z29SoKJE&feature=related[/ame]
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jQUiD9Feg0g&feature=related[/ame]

Yank please.
The SS3600 is going in the TBSS early 2012.

Thats what I'm leaning towards I'm just really scared on how its going to drive lol. It looks like in the video that the guy barely touches the gas and it comes out of lockup but I think that all can be decided with the tune no? I just dont wanna be kicking myself in the ass at the pump or in traffic with the 3600 over the 3200. Also the vid up top is with an lt1 and 3.73's I have 3.42s in mine will the different torque curve of the ls1 make it feel any dofferent.

From everything I've read and seen, Circle D convertors are very comparable to Yank's, so I'm recommended based upon size rather than manufacturer here when I say get the 3600.

IMO, if you're genuinely concerned about the gas hit, leave the factory converter in, because it seems like more of a waste to pay for parts and labor (or invest your time) in swapping out for anything less.

I have an SS3600 and an FLT transmission going in as we speak, so if any additional input is needed, I'd be happy to share later this week. Granted it's a subjective thing and I am boosted, but the car behaves pretty normal under light driving situations.

I think unless you're driving like a maniac you will only see a 1-2mpg loss in fuel economy in the city, and if you do more highway driving that will have an even smaller impact on your overall economy.

I've talked a lot with people and your right both are great companies the reason I was looking at circle d's 3200 was that it isnt billet and is much cheaper than a yank 3200 and imo when you have a smaller converter like than with bolt on power a billet cover isnt needed as much. Anyway from what I was gathering people only lose 1mpg with a 3600 stall I guess just the idea of a stall and how it behaves makes it seem worse on gas than what it actually is lol. Did u have the yank 3600 in the car before or is this a first time deal? Either way i'd like to see the feedback

I'd personally pass on either of those companies and go with Vig, or Coan but that's just me.

Either way they will accomplish what you are looking for. I ran a 3400 in my 02 SS with a 2.1 STR. It worked just fine. It drove around a little loose, but I only lost 1 mpg around town if you drove it easy. I went from 21 mpg to 20 mpg around town. Getting rambunctious more than once and you could drop it 2-3 mpg however. Small tradeoff in my opinion for the 1/2 second I picked up in the 1/4 mile.
Highway of course was unaffected at 26 mpg.

And yes,,,,you can play with the tune and change the TPS signal in the trans settings so it doesn't come unlocked as easily.

why would you pass on those? I've never heard of problems with each and yank is supposedly even setting up a contract to sell their converters through gm performance parts. I know coan is a name brand but I havent looked into them much the vig is a good stall also but from what ive heard and seen on youtube it tends to be a bit loose compared to others. What kind of stall was in your ss?

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Originally Posted by redbird555

why would you pass on those? I've never heard of problems with each and yank is supposedly even setting up a contract to sell their converters through gm performance parts. I know coan is a name brand but I havent looked into them much the vig is a good stall also but from what ive heard and seen on youtube it tends to be a bit loose compared to others. What kind of stall was in your ss?

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I ran a Fuddle in the SS, tried it on the recommendation of a good friend of whom I trust. I'll leave nameless unless he wants to chime in :D
I run Coan in everything else just because they have been great for me over the years.

You are right, some drive around a bit looser than others do. It's in the design, everyone seems to have their own way of wanting to build it.

Yank will probably work fine for ya and do what you want. It's all personal preference, I've just liked the customer service with Coan as well as their product. It's always done exactly what they tell me. Pricey, but they have never let me down. Their converter is the only one that got my 4100 lbs. chevelle to cut 1.5 60 foot times and still be very streetable. I've had 3 other brands in the car in the last 25 years.
It's very hard to make a decision based on the videos. Although I didn't watch them for the simple reason that,,,a single converter will act completely different in different applications. Cam profile, cylinder heads, stock cubes or stroker motors. The same converter in each of those examples will change the characteristics of that converter.
It's why any good converter company will want to "build" the converter rather than sell an "off the shelf unit". I always recommend calling the manufacture of your choice, and go over the entire car. They should have a lengthy questionaire to fill out from cam profile, engine specs, trans, gears, tire height all the way down to the actual weight of the car. Then they custom build a converter for that application. What's nice about Vigilante,,,is that if they don't get it right the first time, or you prefer something looser or tighter,,,,you get one free restall. Can't beat that.

That is if you are serious about the car. If it's just a cruiser with little or no track time, a decent shelf unit would get ya by. It's all a matter of what you want and how much you care to spend.

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Originally Posted by Firebirdjones

I ran a Fuddle in the SS, tried it on the recommendation of a good friend of whom I trust. I'll leave nameless unless he wants to chime in :D
I run Coan in everything else just because they have been great for me over the years.

You are right, some drive around a bit looser than others do. It's in the design, everyone seems to have their own way of wanting to build it.

Yank will probably work fine for ya and do what you want. It's all personal preference, I've just liked the customer service with Coan as well as their product. It's always done exactly what they tell me. Pricey, but they have never let me down. Their converter is the only one that got my 4100 lbs. chevelle to cut 1.5 60 foot times and still be very streetable. I've had 3 other brands in the car in the last 25 years.
It's very hard to make a decision based on the videos. Although I didn't watch them for the simple reason that,,,a single converter will act completely different in different applications. Cam profile, cylinder heads, stock cubes or stroker motors. The same converter in each of those examples will change the characteristics of that converter.
It's why any good converter company will want to "build" the converter rather than sell an "off the shelf unit". I always recommend calling the manufacture of your choice, and go over the entire car. They should have a lengthy questionaire to fill out from cam profile, engine specs, trans, gears, tire height all the way down to the actual weight of the car. Then they custom build a converter for that application. What's nice about Vigilante,,,is that if they don't get it right the first time, or you prefer something looser or tighter,,,,you get one free restall. Can't beat that.

That is if you are serious about the car. If it's just a cruiser with little or no track time, a decent shelf unit would get ya by. It's all a matter of what you want and how much you care to spend.

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Yea i hear ya, I actually filled out the spec sheet on yank's and circle d's website spoke with Chriis and Dave at both companies and they both recommended anywhere from a 3200-3600 stall with a 2.25-2.5 str. I've always heard vig is a tad loose and yank/circled are tighter. Circle d also offers the one free restall but if for whatever reason I get one for a good deal used that wouldnt apply lol.

The 1st vid is of a cammed lt1 with 3.73s so the rear is close to my 3.42's but as you said i dont know what the powerband of the motor is like compared to the ls1 do you think it would behave a tad looser or tighter on an ls1 vs a mild cammed lt1? From what Ive been gathering it looks like 2k on the 3200 to move around with traffic and 2100-2400 to move around with the 3600 does that sound about right?

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Originally Posted by redbird555

Yea i hear ya, I actually filled out the spec sheet on yank's and circle d's website spoke with Chriis and Dave at both companies and they both recommended anywhere from a 3200-3600 stall with a 2.25-2.5 str. I've always heard vig is a tad loose and yank/circled are tighter. Circle d also offers the one free restall but if for whatever reason I get one for a good deal used that wouldnt apply lol.

The 1st vid is of a cammed lt1 with 3.73s so the rear is close to my 3.42's but as you said i dont know what the powerband of the motor is like compared to the ls1 do you think it would behave a tad looser or tighter on an ls1 vs a mild cammed lt1? From what Ive been gathering it looks like 2k on the 3200 to move around with traffic and 2100-2400 to move around with the 3600 does that sound about right?

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I would bet the converter would feel a tad looser behind an LT1,,,simply because they tend to make torque at a lower rpm than our LS1's.
Ya those rpms could be in close proximity. My 3400 would move around town easily while staying at a constant 22-2300, I had 3.23's in mine.

It sounds like you have your head around it. It's better you at least filled out a spec sheet so they can steer you in the right direction. I think you'll be happy with whatever you wind up with.

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Originally Posted by Firebirdjones

I would bet the converter would feel a tad looser behind an LT1,,,simply because they tend to make torque at a lower rpm than our LS1's.
Ya those rpms could be in close proximity. My 3400 would move around town easily while staying at a constant 22-2300, I had 3.23's in mine.

It sounds like you have your head around it. It's better you at least filled out a spec sheet so they can steer you in the right direction. I think you'll be happy with whatever you wind up with.

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I know this is slightly off topic but wouldnt a lt1 feel a little tighter around 2k being that it does make more torque around there and torque x str rate is what gives you the power to take off? Then again the lt1 is cammed which would move the powerband up lol. I know it seems like a lot of arbitrary questions but I just want to make sure I get it right once and am happy with it. Also what do you all have your lockup set at? Is the stock lockup point ok?

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Originally Posted by redbird555

I know this is slightly off topic but wouldnt a lt1 feel a little tighter around 2k being that it does make more torque around there and torque x str rate is what gives you the power to take off? Then again the lt1 is cammed which would move the powerband up lol. I know it seems like a lot of arbitrary questions but I just want to make sure I get it right once and am happy with it. Also what do you all have your lockup set at? Is the stock lockup point ok?

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Generally speaking, an engine that makes peak torque sooner,,,(or more torque for that matter), will work the converter harder or drive into the converter harder. Therefore it raises the stall speed slightly or makes them feel a tad looser. Not to mention stall speed ratings are just a guess or approximation at best. There is no real set number for any given converter because they vary so much behind different engine/trans/gear combinations. Although I would have to guess that converter manufactures have gotten better at this over the years.

I had my lockup at the factory setting of 38 mph in 4th gear. It worked beautiful for my setup but I was still running the stock camshaft so I could get away with it.
If you run any sort of aftermarket cam, especially one that has a mild lope, or tighter LSA you'll more than likely have to move up the lockup speed in small increments until the engine is happy. Usually you get bucking and kicking if the lockup speed is too low for a camshaft application. Much like lugging a stick car in high gear with a camshaft.

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Originally Posted by Firebirdjones

Generally speaking, an engine that makes peak torque sooner,,,(or more torque for that matter), will work the converter harder or drive into the converter harder. Therefore it raises the stall speed slightly or makes them feel a tad looser. Not to mention stall speed ratings are just a guess or approximation at best. There is no real set number for any given converter because they vary so much behind different engine/trans/gear combinations. Although I would have to guess that converter manufactures have gotten better at this over the years.

I had my lockup at the factory setting of 38 mph in 4th gear. It worked beautiful for my setup but I was still running the stock camshaft so I could get away with it.
If you run any sort of aftermarket cam, especially one that has a mild lope, or tighter LSA you'll more than likely have to move up the lockup speed in small increments until the engine is happy. Usually you get bucking and kicking if the lockup speed is too low for a camshaft application. Much like lugging a stick car in high gear with a camshaft.

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I gotcha, the most the car will have is an ls6 crate swap so I dont think it will be much an issue in that sense. Does your still lockup in 3rd too or did you disable that

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Originally Posted by redbird555

I gotcha, the most the car will have is an ls6 crate swap so I dont think it will be much an issue in that sense. Does your still lockup in 3rd too or did you disable that

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Yes it still locks in 3rd. It only does that however if I have the shifter in 3rd gear, which is usually never. It's also the stock settings for 3rd as well which I think is 26 mph lockup, but I'd have to check to be sure.

Ok thanks jones heres my predicament so all ideas are welcome...I've got a few things going on the car this summer. I'm going to need new tires at which point I'm ordering a set of wheels and I'll be putting in my ls6 motor thats in my garage hence why I want to do the stall also this summer. With all of this stuff going on and school I dont have the spare cash to spend on a new billet converter.

So my options are either get a used billet converter from yank or whatever company and spend about that.. The cons are no warranty, and I dont know how the unit performs until I install it. The pro's to it would be that I get the best performance out of the car and have a billet cover.

The circle d on the other hand is also a proven converter and is priced at 400 new, and it has a warranty however it doesnt have a billet cover, and I will lose about .2 seconds compared to the 3600. What do you all think is the best option. The circle d has been known to pull low 1.7's to high 1.6 60ft times and will still net about a .4 gain in the 1/4 so it is still a stout converter

Wow, it's so hard to modify any car on a budget. It's a tough call.

One thing I do know I'd do is stick to buying a new converter. Used converters are a scary proposition unless you know exactly who you are buying from.
Ultimately you'll have to do whatever fits your situation.

Tell me about it haha. Overall I think I'll be happy with either one the circle d is new and I feel a lot more comfortable with that than buying a used converter that could destroy my tranny. My main concern is to get rid of the dead spots in the rpm band and make it pull from a roll at speeds that are usually regarded as as dead for the stocck stall can the 3200 accomplish that?

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Originally Posted by redbird555

I've talked a lot with people and your right both are great companies the reason I was looking at circle d's 3200 was that it isnt billet and is much cheaper than a yank 3200 and imo when you have a smaller converter like than with bolt on power a billet cover isnt needed as much. Anyway from what I was gathering people only lose 1mpg with a 3600 stall I guess just the idea of a stall and how it behaves makes it seem worse on gas than what it actually is lol. Did u have the yank 3600 in the car before or is this a first time deal? Either way i'd like to see the feedback

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Just got the car back from Speed Inc. after work today and I'm already a huge fan of a bigger stall car. To be fair, the last thing I care about with this car is mileage and I know that's one of your considerations, but from a throttle response perspective it's absolutely worth the sacrifice in fuel economy. You should also take into consideration converter size, as I'm pretty sure that Circle D is 278mm at that stall.

I still have to break in the Yank, but pedal feel and throttle response is GREATLY improved over stock even in normal driving. Yes, the car revs higher to get going, but it's not that significant and this is only after my first drive. It's definitely a subjective thing, but I can easily see getting used to this size stall. I can tell I'm going to get into boost almost instantly since the car gets up into the powerband much more quickly.

I'll be more scientific in a new thread with some videos once the weather gets better and I'm through breaking everything in, but I wanted to humbly reinforce my previous suggestion that a 3600 is the way to go if you're going to do it. Especially on a N/A car, you'll want a little bit bigger of a stall anyway. Personally, I pay a little more for reliability and piece of mind, so a billet cover was a no-brainer for me, but I see your logic in not necessarily needing that strength if you're keeping things fairly basic.

We may be coming at this upgrade from different perspectives, but that's my $0.02

ya I completely understand where your coming from if i was boosted or had a badass heads/cam upgrade a billet cover wouldnt even be a question. but as I stated above with all the other stuff I need to do a lot of things this summer plus school so I cant justify spending the 700 on a new yank or whatever the circle d 278 isnt a billet unit and should still net me some good gains im just hoping it will get rid of dead spots and take on m6's from a roll. I would go with a used 3600 but I'm just skeptical about them. do you need a lot of rpms to ove around with the 3600

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Originally Posted by redbird555

Ok thanks jones heres my predicament so all ideas are welcome...I've got a few things going on the car this summer. I'm going to need new tires at which point I'm ordering a set of wheels and I'll be putting in my ls6 motor thats in my garage hence why I want to do the stall also this summer. With all of this stuff going on and school I dont have the spare cash to spend on a new billet converter.

So my options are either get a used billet converter from yank or whatever company and spend about that.. The cons are no warranty, and I dont know how the unit performs until I install it. The pro's to it would be that I get the best performance out of the car and have a billet cover.

The circle d on the other hand is also a proven converter and is priced at 400 new, and it has a warranty however it doesnt have a billet cover, and I will lose about .2 seconds compared to the 3600. What do you all think is the best option. The circle d has been known to pull low 1.7's to high 1.6 60ft times and will still net about a .4 gain in the 1/4 so it is still a stout converter

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Sorry, Redbird, I just jumped on with an update and didn't notice the most recent discussion. With your investment into wheels, tires and a new motor I would say just wait until you have the $2-300 to get the better stall (whatever brand that may be). Unless installation is an issue down the road I think it would be worth it. You're obviously comparing two fairly different converters when you take into account stall, converter size and billet vs non, so it's not an issue of manufacturer since Circle D offers comparable stalls to the SS line.

Any improvement in track times will depend on the 60' you were cutting to begin with. I guess it comes down to how badly you want those extra couple tenths/seat of the pants feel. I don't think there's much of an argument about which of those two will perform better, it's just a question of what you value most (i.e. performance, cost, reliability, mileage, etc.).

I've probably typed too much already between these last two posts, so I'll shut up. Whatever you end up doing, I hope you enjoy it. That car should be fun with the LS6 in it!

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Originally Posted by See Me In My GTP

Sorry, Redbird, I just jumped on with an update and didn't notice the most recent discussion. With your investment into wheels, tires and a new motor I would say just wait until you have the $2-300 to get the better stall (whatever brand that may be). Unless installation is an issue down the road I think it would be worth it. You're obviously comparing two fairly different converters when you take into account stall, converter size and billet vs non, so it's not an issue of manufacturer since Circle D offers comparable stalls to the SS line.

Any improvement in track times will depend on the 60' you were cutting to begin with. I guess it comes down to how badly you want those extra couple tenths/seat of the pants feel. I don't think there's much of an argument about which of those two will perform better, it's just a question of what you value most (i.e. performance, cost, reliability, mileage, etc.).

I've probably typed too much already between these last two posts, so I'll shut up. Whatever you end up doing, I hope you enjoy it. That car should be fun with the LS6 in it!

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Lol not as much as a boosted ls6 would be though. Thats the thing I'm coming home for the summer and starting work tomorrow however I need to be back away at school in a few months so I dont have a whole lot of time to do it and doing it over the school year would pose a lot of issues with time. Plus if I can get it done with over the summer I'll be able to drive it around and make sure there arent any bugs in it. I think what I may end up doing ia accumulating the parts for the wheels and whatnot first and then see where I stand. Dont get me wrong i would like to do the bigger converter if I found a converter for a decent priced that didnt look to banged up I probably wouldnt have an issue with it.

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Originally Posted by redbird555

ya I completely understand where your coming from if i was boosted or had a badass heads/cam upgrade a billet cover wouldnt even be a question. but as I stated above with all the other stuff I need to do a lot of things this summer plus school so I cant justify spending the 700 on a new yank or whatever the circle d 278 isnt a billet unit and should still net me some good gains im just hoping it will get rid of dead spots and take on m6's from a roll. I would go with a used 3600 but I'm just skeptical about them. do you need a lot of rpms to ove around with the 3600

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I'm already breaking my vow of silence from my previous post, haha. I can probably respond more accurately with a few more drives, but you definitely need more to get moving. To put it in perspective, the car won't move forward at idle off the brake on a slight incline. As far as acceleration, I would hazard a guess that it takes another 500rpms to get moving compared to the stock stall in pretty lethargic driving. The more throttle the snappier it gets. That's not to say it's terrible or 'a lot', but it's definitely 'more'.

I'll try to get some daily driving videos up this weekend for you if that would be helpful and you're not in a rush to buy. If you had any specific throttle patterns you think would be enlightening let me know, otherwise I'll get some 'typical' lazy acceleration runs up.

^^sounds great ya pretty much anything you can get accelerating normally with traffic, accelerating in lockup etc it would be much appreciated. Even though your boosted it shouldnt be that much different seeing as you wont be digging into boost with just normal driving what gears does the car have in case i missed it? I thought I had this thing licked but everyone keeps telling me to go right to the 3600 for a DD I hope theyre right hahah. If its as good as everyone says I may just go ahead and find a good used one and cross my fingers.

Everyone is telling you to go right to a 3600 because these LS1's/LS6's like it. They really don't make much torque below that rpm, they zing better at 4,000 rpms and above.

You probably wouldn't be happy with a 3200, especially behind a higher reving LS6 engine. I ran a 3400 stall, but it drove loose with a stock cam and 3.23 gears. Was about perfect for that car. No dead spots that I'm aware of. It would walk my wifes 6 speed car up to about 90 mph and my wifes car has a cam in it,,,,my auto was a bone stocker other than headers :chuckles:

If I were running an LS6 like you are talking,,,,I'd go 3600 or possibly higher for that engine.

damn I hate you all lol, I dont see too much of a drive ability difference between the ss3600 and a 3200 converter and even your fuddle was a 3400 and had a 2.1 str the ss3600 comes with a 2.5 str so that may help it a lot around town at least thats what I've heard. ONe other thing, if I do go with a 3600 is there anyway I can get it to hook from a roll other than with dr's lol idk that I feel comfortable driving around florida in the rain with a set of dr's on the back.

Mine hooked fine on stock rubber with a little practice.
I ran a 1.90 60 foot time with it on stock tires and dipped into the 12's with just the converter and headers. Still on the bone stock suspension, I didn't even really try that hard. Sticky tires and a more aggressive launch would have gotten me 1.7x 60 foot times, but I was happy with the way the car was performing at that time.
There are plenty of little suspension tricks that can be done however to make the car hook and transfer weight.
I was running 1.8x 60 foot times in my 70 bird on stock F70-14 bias ply tires. Takes a little finess, some tweaks, and practice.

Sure you can get out there and stab the throttle and go ditch hunting if you want to though :D

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Originally Posted by redbird555

damn I hate you all lol, I dont see too much of a drive ability difference between the ss3600 and a 3200 converter and even your fuddle was a 3400 and had a 2.1 str the ss3600 comes with a 2.5 str so that may help it a lot around town at least thats what I've heard. ONe other thing, if I do go with a 3600 is there anyway I can get it to hook from a roll other than with dr's lol idk that I feel comfortable driving around florida in the rain with a set of dr's on the back.

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I'm running M/T ET Streets and there is virtually no tread on them. While it is only a nice weather car, I very recently got stuck in a pretty good downpour and as long as you don't drive like a maniac they actually work really well. If you were in a colder climate I would never encourage it, but don't let that be the reason you don't get them down in Florida. You may get some hydro-planing in standing water, but some rain is no problem.

Actually, as I'm thinking about it, when I got the ET's put on last summer it rained as I was going to Firestone and the Nitto 555's on there were much scarier then the ET's on the way back home.

Ultimately it's up to to you to decide if you NEED that kind of tire, and Firebird has some good points above. Suspension does go a long way towards getting better traction with the tire you have and making the car more predictable.

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Originally Posted by Firebirdjones

Mine hooked fine on stock rubber with a little practice.
I ran a 1.90 60 foot time with it on stock tires and dipped into the 12's with just the converter and headers. Still on the bone stock suspension, I didn't even really try that hard. Sticky tires and a more aggressive launch would have gotten me 1.7x 60 foot times, but I was happy with the way the car was performing at that time.
There are plenty of little suspension tricks that can be done however to make the car hook and transfer weight.
I was running 1.8x 60 foot times in my 70 bird on stock F70-14 bias ply tires. Takes a little finess, some tweaks, and practice.

Sure you can get out there and stab the throttle and go ditch hunting if you want to though :D

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^ Ya I'd rather not do that lol. Just a question but could you get traction nailing it from a roll or were the street tires useless from there. I realize you could baby it to get traction U 'm just wondering how it does from a roll. I do have relocation brackets however idk that they do much.

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Originally Posted by See Me In My GTP

I'm running M/T ET Streets and there is virtually no tread on them. While it is only a nice weather car, I very recently got stuck in a pretty good downpour and as long as you don't drive like a maniac they actually work really well. If you were in a colder climate I would never encourage it, but don't let that be the reason you don't get them down in Florida. You may get some hydro-planing in standing water, but some rain is no problem.

Actually, as I'm thinking about it, when I got the ET's put on last summer it rained as I was going to Firestone and the Nitto 555's on there were much scarier then the ET's on the way back home.

Ultimately it's up to to you to decide if you NEED that kind of tire, and Firebird has some good points above. Suspension does go a long way towards getting better traction with the tire you have and making the car more predictable.

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The thing that turned me off or dr's is 1 they dont have a lot of mileage on them and I do a lot of driving so I dont have time or money to replace them every 8000 miles lol. The 22nd thing is that my buddy had a set of MT's on his car adn even though they were pretty bald you couldnt take the car over 40mph in the rain it would just hydroplane with no throttle at all. Btw still looking forward to the yank vids.:woot:

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Originally Posted by redbird555

^ Ya I'd rather not do that lol. Just a question but could you get traction nailing it from a roll or were the street tires useless from there. I realize you could baby it to get traction U 'm just wondering how it does from a roll. I do have relocation brackets however idk that they do much.

The thing that turned me off or dr's is 1 they dont have a lot of mileage on them and I do a lot of driving so I dont have time or money to replace them every 8000 miles lol. The 22nd thing is that my buddy had a set of MT's on his car adn even though they were pretty bald you couldnt take the car over 40mph in the rain it would just hydroplane with no throttle at all. Btw still looking forward to the yank vids.:woot:

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It was fine from a roll as long as I wasn't going slow enough for first gear. Say above 40 mph it would stay in second and go. 20-30 mph if I were to just stab it,,,then it would spin the tires, but first gear was so quick at that point that the tire spin was easily managable since I only had about another 10 mph of 1st gear left anyway.

I run MT drag radials on my chevelle full time. It's a fair weather car only but I've been caught a couple of times in popup downpoors. I drove about 50 mph and took my time and never once did they ever give me the hint of hydroplane or any kind of trouble at all. It's not a tire that I would be interested in testing it's rain limits, so 50 was about it for me.

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Originally Posted by Firebirdjones

It was fine from a roll as long as I wasn't going slow enough for first gear. Say above 40 mph it would stay in second and go. 20-30 mph if I were to just stab it,,,then it would spin the tires, but first gear was so quick at that point that the tire spin was easily managable since I only had about another 10 mph of 1st gear left anyway.

I run MT drag radials on my chevelle full time. It's a fair weather car only but I've been caught a couple of times in popup downpoors. I drove about 50 mph and took my time and never once did they ever give me the hint of hydroplane or any kind of trouble at all. It's not a tire that I would be interested in testing it's rain limits, so 50 was about it for me.

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Ya having drag radials is just not something I want to be concerned about considering its my dd. Originally I was going to do 18x10.5 deep dish c5 wheels in the back and 17x9.5 in front however if I'm going to do a stall I may shift to a 17x11 zr1 chrome wheel which is a little cheaper.... The tire options are better and cheaper which would help pay for the stall and the tires I'll need after the stall lol. :mel:

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Originally Posted by redbird555

Ya having drag radials is just not something I want to be concerned about considering its my dd. Originally I was going to do 18x10.5 deep dish c5 wheels in the back and 17x9.5 in front however if I'm going to do a stall I may shift to a 17x11 zr1 chrome wheel which is a little cheaper.... The tire options are better and cheaper which would help pay for the stall and the tires I'll need after the stall lol. :mel:

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Don't blame ya, I wouldn't do drag radials on a daily car myself either. I don't like spending more money than I have to for tires either, with many cars in the fleet it gets rather pricey, so I prefer to stay with stock wheel sizes and more reasonably priced tires because of it. I still run 14" wheels on a couple of cars :chuckles:

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Originally Posted by redbird555

^ Ya I'd rather not do that lol. Just a question but could you get traction nailing it from a roll or were the street tires useless from there. I realize you could baby it to get traction U 'm just wondering how it does from a roll. I do have relocation brackets however idk that they do much.

The thing that turned me off or dr's is 1 they dont have a lot of mileage on them and I do a lot of driving so I dont have time or money to replace them every 8000 miles lol. The 22nd thing is that my buddy had a set of MT's on his car adn even though they were pretty bald you couldnt take the car over 40mph in the rain it would just hydroplane with no throttle at all. Btw still looking forward to the yank vids.:woot:

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Alright, here you go. I apologize in advance, these are just some hand-held flip cam videos of the tach and speedo I took quickly yesterday before the weather turned. First time doing this kind of video so there were some lessons learned, but I think they'll still be helpful. Nice day today so if you wanted to see something else or some higher speed runs up to lockup I can do that as well - I just did a quick run through the neighborhood to get something up. :cheers:

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5OXG7v7WuyI[/ame]

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oJSacMqlfcc[/ame]

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=asYbykYJLwM[/ame]

Not sure how to embed these just yet on here, so the links will have to do for now. If you're interested, I have a couple other startup videos for the blower under that same screen name (nyws6). I just use youtube to share larger files with friends out of state these days, but you're welcome to peruse if you'd like. I'll be getting some more exciting acceleration videos up once the transmission and TC are fully broken in. Shooting for 10.9's this summer, but realistically I think it will be very low 11's and I'm happy with that.

On a random note, I replaced the rear sail panel speakers yesterday with some Bazookas from Kee Audio and they sound awesome for a direct factory replacement. Nothing ridiculous, just very tight, responsive bass back there now and the Monsoon EQ doesn't cause them to distort like the OEM units.

vids look great it really looks like it drives well... are you making a lot of boost down low oh and btw in case i missed it what gears are you running

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Originally Posted by redbird555

vids look great it really looks like it drives well... are you making a lot of boost down low oh and btw in case i missed it what gears are you running

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I'm running the factory 3.23 gears out back right now. The car is never in the boost at those RPMs - every bit of those videos the car was in vacuum. With the stall once you get on it the car will get right up into boost, but under normal driving conditions it behaves pretty much like normal.

I hope that helps!