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so after a 50 mile cruise this morning, i noticed while sitting in traffic that my oil pressure had dropped and the car has a serious knock at low rpm.....i wasnt even mad cause i beat on this thing and its got some miles, so i knew it was bound to happen eventually. i checked my oil when i got home, and its lookin a litte wierd, and has some metallic flakes goin on.....im gonna change the oil and see what that does, and if its still the same, time for a transplant.
Spun bearing? How severe is the knock? A bent push rod would sound like a knock kinda, but wouldn't affect oil pressure. A stuck lifter might and would also sound like a ticking. Metal shavings to some degree are normal, but depending on how much you got out it's probably not a good sign.
yea its comin from the bottom end.....i stuck a piece of garden hose to the oil pan and listened to the other end.....im thinkin my oil is really thin since i have that marvel mystery oil in there...im gonna change it and see what happens.Quote:
Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS
Anytime there is a knock and metal shavings........its almost always new motor or rebuild time. Sucks but if you were expecting it then it lessens the blow.
PS: I've never seen any metal in my oil, only time I seen any amount of metal was when I blew my 82 Trans Am 305 up :sorry:
EDIT: What I'm saying is, anytime you can visually see metal on the oil dipstick, kiss the motor goodbye within a short amount of time. I would still change the oil and see what it does. Not going to hurt anything :shrug:
yea the ol lady is bummed, so i had to front and tell her that it may be an easy fix.....but i assume the worst, so if i have to, ill purchase a longblock from cratenginedepot for $2600....sneak a cam and stall in there before i stick it back in...sucks cause we were just discussing a new paint job for this summer.
At least you have an ol lady that likes cars :DQuote:
Originally Posted by jiveass
yea you right about that....we were watchin overhaulin last night where they did the 64 impala.....her panties got wet.
When are you going to change the oil? How long and how much MO did you have in the oil?
i wont mess with it for a few days probably....i had 1 quart of mmo, and the rest castrol gtx 10w30.......i started it up about an hour ago to put it in the garage, and the knock wasnt there...which leads me to believe my oil has thinned and needs to be changed since the engine was cooled ....
If you had NO metal on the dipstick I'd say you were fine and maybe a "Piston Slap" issue happened from thinned oil but I'm not holding my breath!Quote:
Originally Posted by jiveass
I hope I'm as wrong as two boys in the woods fucking because I don't like to see a buddy have to spend money :sorry: :cheers:
i usually have piston slap until it warms up.....its a different sound than what i heard yesterday.....but this was at operating temp and it started while i was sitting at a red light...but like i said, it cooled down and i started it back up and it wasnt there...so im crossin my fingers....and actually, part of me hopes that its knockin because i would really like a new engine......just have to justify it with the boss...Quote:
Originally Posted by blackSS01
Ya man I hate to hear that too but metal on the dipstick is never good... On the bright side though an ls6 longblock is around 3500 shipped and you'd be looking at around 400whp with bolt ons and the m6.:D
a4 here, but i have tossed around the idea of ls6Quote:
Originally Posted by redbird555
mines about shot. i sounded like a tug boat pulling into the parking lot today so im pribably ordering my ls6 block tonight :seesaw:Quote:
Originally Posted by redbird555
spun rod bearing(s). bent pushrods won't deposit metal shavings in your oil, sorry.
pull it and rebuild it. i did and its easy. bout $500 if you do it yourself.
Ya man for the money over an ls1 its well worth it, with an a4 I'd bet around 380 with full bolt ons and a good tune.Quote:
Originally Posted by jiveass
Ouch man so are you order it from scoggin dickey tonight? My shortblock is almost done it should be going in my car next month, I've got all the little pieces like bolts, gaskets etc to put it together I just need a good set of 243 heads for it lolQuote:
Originally Posted by BashamWS6
pm sent redbird555
pm replied
umm i have no messages... you sure u replied?Quote:
Originally Posted by redbird555
lol i just resent it if u still didnt get it reply here and ill just post the links not like a sponsor sells them anyway sorry for kinda jackking the op's thread :dunno:
sorry op...
no problem, fellas....:drivin:
go lq4 :ughlaugh:
plus 1Quote:
Originally Posted by SSwt00SS
Where can you find a COMPLETE rebuild kit with everything for that price. A re-ring kit sure but a set with the pistons and cam bearings along with a new cam is easily 900 bucks alone. I wouldnt recommend keeping the stock pistons either. Ls motors have piston slap since new so putting the same loose pistons back in with a lot of miles on them is usually not good. People almost always go with .010 over pistons that way they make sure the bores are uniform, straight and have a good solid fit.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay37
Quote:
Originally Posted by redbird555
summit racing sells the kit with pistons for 600.....http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FE...ComboContents/
but it says for 97-98 ls1....hmm
I've sen that kit before the gaskets that it brings are cheap paper ones just like the picture and not the rubber o-ring type that stock. PLus they dont have a kit for 99-up which means you would still need to get different head gaskets and valve cover gaskets. also the kit doesnt include head bolt, valley cover gasket, exhaust gaskets, or manifold gaskets.. it shows them in the pic but if you look at the kit content they say they arent included.
who said anything about a 'complete' rebuild kit? it's owners discrestion on if new pistons maybe be needed. once you tear down the block and see what you're working with, then you will know what you need.Quote:
Originally Posted by redbird555
while certain parts are needed new for a rebuild, others are not. if the rings are good, reuse them. there is nothing that says YOU HAVE to replace. if the cam bearings are good, REUSE THEM, you have to check all the tolerances and clearances.
no, its not doing anything 2nd hand or a hack job, but you dont have to spend more money than you need to, or do more work that necessary to rebuild an engine.
if you prefer to rebuild by purchasing every part new, then that is your route and your choice, but not mine. at the end of the day, a running Ls1 with no issues is a running Ls1 with no issues. if i achieve the same goal as you and spend $500 while you feel it necessary to spend $1200, then that is the route i will go. i only fix what needs fixing, and not spend extra money for a false sense of security or piece of mind.
IIRC his engine has 100k on it it idk about you but if Im going to tear down a motor for lets say a spun rod bearing you better believe that motor is going to get all new bearings and rings. After 100k the engine is going to show signs of wear like it or not so if the whole thing is apart its silly to not spend the extra 400 and put the new cam bearing in it along with the rings. The pistons may or may not need to be replaced but they usually come with a master rebuild kit. If that motor did spin a bearing there maybe ,metal fragments in the oil passages that would recirculate into the rotating assembly when its put back together so a hot tank wouldnt be a bad idea. IMO if the motor has 100k on it would dumb not do a total rebuild just because it looks ok doesnt mean its not worn. I suppose it could be done for 500 bucks but it would kinda be a low cut job....Quote:
Originally Posted by SSwt00SS
understand, im not objecting to your approach, im offering a different one.Quote:
Originally Posted by redbird555
you are basing all this off assumption, not facts. no one knows until the engine is broke down, and everyone knows every rebuild is not the same. it is also your opinion it would be 'dumb' not to do a total rebuild. again, not factual. i suppose i am of the mind set to spend what only needs to be spent and fix what only needs fixing. but that doesnt mean the end result would be of inferior quality just because i spent less money.
in my case/experience, i rebuilt the engine in my old '98 Ws6 that had 4 spun rod bearings in it (bought the car not running, 66k). cam bearings still good, rings and pistons good, cross-hatching still on the cylinder walls. flushed the block and heads to remove fragments/crap.
i bought a set of Federal Mougal rod bearings, polished the crank journals (all still within tol./clear. specs), new head bolts, new gaskets (oil pan, head, water, valve, exhaust manifold, etc.) for right around $500. it can be done.
got it back in the car, and started right up no issues, no leaks, no problems. still runs like a raped ape too.
might as well get it all in one sweep.. do it right the first time
you could to that. you can do everything by the book, buy and spend money on every new part needed and still have the engine crap out. these cars, these engines its a crap shoot. everyone knows this: you gotta pay to play...Quote:
Originally Posted by BashamWS6
See that is different though if the engine only had 65k on it like yours thats still a relatively low mileage engine and I would support just a rering if everything checked out so i agree with you there.... However at 100k things are getting worn out and skipping things like rings and cam bearings would not be advisable by any machine shop maybe not "dumb" but it certainly wouldnt be a smart move if the budget allowed for an extra 400 bucks. However if you had no other choice it could be done, would it be inferior to a complete rebuild? I still say yes and I'm sure others would agree as parts would certainly show wear and would have a shorter lifespan than all new parts. When I said 1k I assumed that all the main parts would be fine ie. the crank, rods, etc. So no I'm not sure of what the engine would need but once again at that mileage I would atleast do the stuff I mentioned just as a precaution and prevent future rebuilds...Quote:
Originally Posted by SSwt00SS
Exactly my point. The op was looking at crate motors so 1k for a rebuild shouldnt even be a question as opposed to a 500 dollar bare bones job. Basham did you find a motor yet lolQuote:
Originally Posted by BashamWS6
well im changin the oil today and see what happens....if a new engine is needed, i wont fool with rebuilding this one....i will buy the ls1 crate for $2600, slap a cam in there and be done with it....i dont care to be the fastest car around, besides, id like a new paintjob soon so i dont wanna put all my money into the engine.
i'll buy your complete longblock ls1 engine thats in your car for $100...:D
i'll even drive down to H-town and help you pull it!
ha! i gotta use that for the core charge...
If you have an auto and you want to cam it youd need to count a stall in there somewhere atleast a 3200 or else you want see much of anything from the cam swap and it wont be much fun to drive...Quote:
Originally Posted by jiveass
not to mention ur tranny will maybe take a dump after the new engine...
that is if you get a new engine and not rebuild
of course i will get a stall...and if the tranny craps out, then ill get a new one of those too....
Quote:
Originally Posted by jiveass
good man im contemplating on one for my car this summer to go along with the ls6 motor... do you know what gears you car has? 2.73s or 3.23s?Quote:
Originally Posted by jiveass
LoL! its always a plus when your woman is into what your're into,i love a woman that loves carsQuote:
Originally Posted by jiveass
3.23s..Quote:
Originally Posted by redbird555
yea and she understands when something goes wrong, its gotta be fixed.Quote:
Originally Posted by fbodyNATION
hate to hear that,hopefully your car will be back on the road soon,aint nothing like a new LS1 engine although a LS6 doesnt sound like a bad ideaQuote:
Originally Posted by jiveass
then im changing my opinion lol 3400-3600 stall, with a bolt on ls1 and some decent tires high 11's are thereQuote:
Originally Posted by jiveass
im wonderin how much i can make with port and polish on stock heads...or perhaps some massaged 243's
honestly if your going to go with some worked heads and maybe a small cam a crate motor may not be the best way to go. with a stock cam the max you would probably see with heads is 20-25 hp just because the cam isnt big enough to take advantage of the heads. I personally like this build l92 heads on an lq9/ls2 engine of your choice... Get an lq9 shortblock $1200 new slap a set of $700 new stock l92 heads add an ls3 intake and a cam spec'd by pat g and make these numbers for under $3500 cant really beat it. the price it would cost to do this with cathedral heads and an ls1 motor would easily exceed 5k....(link is to ls1tech please do not remove its just a dyno graph) http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/dynamo...p-446rwtq.html
wello it has been confirmed.....i have a bad bearing....time to remove engine. damn....
Ha i just had mine confirmed today. Spun bearings sound great!!
so what are your plans??? stock? stroker kit? mine is almost gone too :)
i havnt decided what to do yet...i think the easiest thing to do is to replace the bearings and if necessary get the crank machined
unless the crank is really chewed up, chances are you can simply polish it and check that it's still within clearance tolerance and won't need to run oversized bearings.Quote:
Originally Posted by jiveass
im thinking ls6 :D or inanything... ill get a ls1 crate and just get a 408 when this isnt my DD
By your track record, you'll still be thinking that 10 years from now...Quote:
Originally Posted by BashamWS6
We always get in the discussisions on here I never see measurements posted, I.E. cylinder out of round. ring end gap. main and rod clearances cam measurements. deck flat. NOTHING. Just speculation at how long an engine lasts.Quote:
Originally Posted by redbird555
I have swapped plenty of bearings just to quiet an engine down with no problems.
+1 hell yeah, just clean any obstructions with some mothers, and measure that bitch.Quote:
Originally Posted by SSwt00SS
:haha: :lmao: :true:Quote:
Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS
Sorry to hear all these motors going bye bye!
shit...i beat the hell outta this engine...thats what its made for....if a rod bearing is the only problem i got then im fine with that.Quote:
Originally Posted by blackSS01
I have also and they all are running fine to this day. However with this being a high performance motor I would want to make sure everything is good. I'm not saying the cylinders will look like eggs and yes you could probably get away with the original pistons but heres my reasoning why I wouldnt in this case. These motors have piston slap already (usually) in that case honing the cylinder and then just doing a re-ring doesnt help the problem. For the 1k your going too spend on a complete rebuild kit ie all new bearings, rings, lifters etc the kits come with new pistons of your size choice. In this case why not use them? Have a machine shop bore the block .010 and ensure a good tight fit. Once again not saying its necessary but if my motor slapped it wouldnt even be a question if it was dead quiet I would probably just clean up the bore and put all new rings/bearing etc. No way in hell i'd be putting the original rings and cam bearings back in there.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay37
I see your point. I feel that a factory short block is very safe up to 450hp so IF IT IS WITHIN THE FACTORY SPECS, I don't see a need to change anything. I also don't consider piston slap a problem, although it is a hit topic on this site.
Different people, with different ways to skin a cat.
It's a hit topic because it is very real and although it doesnt hurt anything its not the most enjoyable thing to listen to so if my motor had it (which it does) I would try to eliminate it by doing a over bore if it doesnt which not all do then I wouldnt worry about it. I'm not sure if your gto does it (iirc gm helped the problem in the gen iv motors) but if it did you wouldnt like it lol