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When I am first starting off from a dead stop and not giving it a lot of gas I can hear the air pump working. It makes a distinct noise. I was wondering why does it work after the car is warmed up? Isn't supposed to feed air only when the car is not at optimal temperature?!
:blah:
depending on your answers this would be another question I would like you too keep in mind. What internally or externally could I change to get more air to the cylinder that isn't to mean on the wallet?
delete all that stuff...you don't need it.
Why would I delete it?:Ohno: for what would I gain?Quote:
Originally Posted by jason.d.gantt
bout 15 horsepower.....
How?:think: I have cats...wouldn't removing that fuck me over?Quote:
Originally Posted by jason.d.gantt
You can remove the emissions equipment from our cars. Many do when installing LTs. If you have emissions testing, it probably wouldn't be a good idea.
You could possibly have a relay sticking. I seem to recall mine doing the same - but I removed all emissions stuff a long time ago.
And you could get the resulting SES light, from removing the emissions equipment, tuned out.
unless you send the PCM for tuning, the removal by itself won't give you any gain.Quote:
Originally Posted by jason.d.gantt
if you remove it the SES light will come on. It won't affect the driving but if it bugs you then you need to have a tuner disable the codes for you.
Like Knight said if you have emission inspection is not a good idea. Check that relay, it will be an inexpensive fix if it is bad.
I don't have emissions testing. I could run headers with no problem(as long as they don't set off car alarms)Quote:
Originally Posted by JayTA98
What would the PCM tuning do with the removal of the air pump?
Fixed.Quote:
Originally Posted by jason.d.gantt
The tuning will eliminate the error code it will pick up from the lose of the emission parts. So you don't have to look at check engine light all the time and not know if an actual problem pops up.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hot head
That's what I was going to say. Makes the car alittle lighter and cleans up the engine bay. Doesn't do anything else.Quote:
Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS
Thanks guys :nana:Quote:
Originally Posted by KMdef9
NP!Quote:
Originally Posted by Hot head
Do you already have a tune? Are you an automatic? Do you know someone to tune it for you?
Enlightened me I have an a4 no tuneQuote:
Originally Posted by KMdef9
I would recommend a Frost tune. Your car will wake up quite a bit.
Beat me to my own post! lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Knight
http://www.tunedbyfrost.com/
Yea I know wont pay more than 500 for itQuote:
Originally Posted by Knight
His mail order's start at $150.00.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hot head
Is it a company or a person. Also if they reduce the torque thing than that makes my tyranny more susceptible to breakage bit if he wants to pm me go aheadQuote:
Originally Posted by KMdef9
Frost is a member here who works for a company ( I don't know if he owns it or not), but feel free to contact him(them) and they can answer all your questions on what they do.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hot head
I can tell you a bit about my experience since I have an A4. I did the frost mail tune. I email him and explained that is my DD and I will use next day delivery and will like the same back. He did my tune the same day he got it and he put it in the mail the same day. My mods were pretty basic. I tell you is well worth it just by him adjusting the shift points. You will notice that your car accelerates way faster and the throttle responds faster. It's like having a different car.
So the best and more affordable way will be Frost mail tune. He also offers great costumer service and support.
www.tunedbyfrost.comQuote:
Originally Posted by Hot head
Frost is his online nick....his real name is Steve. Just have to read on the site a bit to know that he has an excellent reputation on here and has many many happy customers on the site.
As far as your A4 being more prone to breaking.....when you mod your car at all things get more prone to breaking. The old saying is fast-reliable-cheap.....pick 2. That being said I've ran for years on a stalled tranny with heads/cam with all the standard tranny tuning done. Tranny is still ticking.
<< A very happy Frost mail order tune customer.
Back to the OP's original question. Are you sure it is the air pump that you hear. Over top of the driver side wheel house there is a hose that runs along the fender. There should be a connector in that area, with the car running and the noise present, separate the connection. If the air pump is running you should feel a steady stream of air blowing out of the hose in your left hand (the one that runs to the front of the car).
Well none of the cars that I have had make this particular noise its like thecompression of something. Like a metal hum but its only during first gear of acceleration from a dead stop. If I gun it then its not there but if I push on the pedal gently you can hear the hum.Quote:
Originally Posted by pajeff02
Yes true everything get pushed more. This is the car's second tranny in 9 years and I hardly drop the hammer on it.:thumbdn::ripped:Quote:
Originally Posted by 0rion
Yea if frost contacts me I will talk more about it with him. I don't know how to install or remove a pcm.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hot head
I doubt it is the air pump. It may run for 2-3 minutes after cold startup. Check the hose as recommended since that will answer the question.
He has a picture tutorial on his site instructing you how to remove it. It's very easy, only 4 bolts IIRC.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hot head