Confused now B&M only and sid 3200rpm is too high

Ok I went to order som parts at a local speed shop and they confused the heck out of me They told me I shouln't buy a high stall like that because I didn't have enough HP They were going to sell me a 2200 to 2400rpm and they don't carry Yank only B&M I've asked questions about stll's before and everyone are saying 3200rpm

I'm thinkin headers high flow cats y pipe exchaust and stall

OR

Hood intake an stall for now and th rest next year with a tune probably this strategy for now...... What do I do?????

I would contact one of the sponsors on here but I can't see the higher stall hurting you especially if you have future mods coming. I would wait on the hood and make the horsepower first but thats just me..

I'd find another/better local shop, or buy online. :yup:

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Originally Posted by Durango

Ok I went to order som parts at a local speed shop and they confused the heck out of me They told me I shouln't buy a high stall like that because I didn't have enough HP They were going to sell me a 2200 to 2400rpm and they don't carry Yank only B&M I've asked questions about stll's before and everyone are saying 3200rpm

I'm thinkin headers high flow cats y pipe exchaust and stall

OR

Hood intake an stall for now and th rest next year with a tune probably this strategy for now...... What do I do?????

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That is 100 % BS... A 3000 to 3500 converter works well on a stock A4 LS1. They are just trying to BS you period. I would find someone else, look at a sponsor here or buy online..

Yea dont do that, there are auto cars out there with just bolt ons and 4000+ stalls that are running fine

step #1... don't ever shop there again because they are clueless...

step #2... call our sponsors on this site because they know what they are talking about and specialise in our cars...

3400 stall here and while I don't DD it I very well could. AAMOF, I'll be driving the 02 to Cali to my sisters for Christmas (800 mile round trip). At lockup it works just like a normal stall.

The reason I don't DD drive the 02 is 1. I have another car and 2. Stop and go traffic is harder on the engine than racing it is.

I called a sponsor on the site and you were right they have no clue All my info I got from u guys was 100% will buy on line frig them Thanks again :yourock:

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Originally Posted by 67CamaroRSSS

3400 stall here and while I don't DD it I very well could. AAMOF, I'll be driving the 02 to Cali to my sisters for Christmas (800 mile round trip). At lockup it works just like a normal stall.

The reason I don't DD drive the 02 is 1. I have another car and 2. Stop and go traffic is harder on the engine than racing it is.

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If you drive around town do you notice a lot higher rev to start rolling at a light or barely?

You have to be careful when dealing with certain shops. They will blow smoke up your backside.

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Originally Posted by Durango

If you drive around town do you notice a lot higher rev to start rolling at a light or barely?

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OH yeah!

Upon depressing the throttle it goes to ~2500rpm (more if I give it more throttle - I'm talking feather foot here), shifts to 2nd, shifts to 3rd then shifts to OD. At normal part throttle it will shift into lockup (feels like an extra shift) at about 40mph or so. This point is adjustable with programming.

After lockup (say at hiway speeds) it drives like a normal car.

Driving around town though it's normal until I hit it; then it goes up to 3500+ rpm, starts roasting the stock tires and runs like a raped ape!

That puts a smile on this old mans face!

Example: During the local cruise I got into a stoplight joust with a friend. He was curious (he's basically stock) as to why my car surged ahead (we went from ~10 mph to ~35 mph) then started squealing the tires. I told him that was the engine torque catching up through the tranny with the tires.

Find a new shop. You must have looked under "Idiots" in the yellow pages to find those guys as they are totally clueless. Stall that pig. Get a trannie cooler. Reprogram shift points and shift firmness.

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Originally Posted by Sarge

Find a new shop. You must have looked under "Idiots" in the yellow pages to find those guys as they are totally clueless. Stall that pig. Get a trannie cooler. Reprogram shift points and shift firmness.

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X2

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Originally Posted by Durango

Ok I went to order som parts at a local speed shop and they confused the heck out of me They told me I shouln't buy a high stall like that because I didn't have enough HP They were going to sell me a 2200 to 2400rpm and they don't carry Yank only B&M I've asked questions about stll's before and everyone are saying 3200rpm

I'm thinkin headers high flow cats y pipe exchaust and stall

OR

Hood intake an stall for now and th rest next year with a tune probably this strategy for now...... What do I do?????

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I have a low horsepower 2001 Z28, when stock: 298rwhp/290rwtq (@ redline). 3.73 gears

I purchased a Yank 3000 2.0 str (98% efficiency) and now my numbers are: 291rwhp/325rwtq (@ redline). 3.73 gears

The vehicle is way more fun to drive, and is alot quicker off the line. If I had to do it all over again, I would have gone with a 3600 stall.

FIND ANOTHER SHOP!!!!

SteveC :)

I've run into this with the old school guys.....they pitch a fit when they hear 3500 rpm stall. I ran a 3500 in mine when it was a bolt on/headers car and I could've easily DD it.

I easily burn a tank or more of gas a week in my car in the summer so I just wanted to make sure I don't kill my DD I just want it to take of like a bat out of hell and still enjoy driving it

You'll definately enjoy driving it after the stall converter. I also run a 3400 in mine and it just has a couple of bolt ons, namely headers and an off road Y.
I had planned a camshaft upgrade that still hasn't happened, so I did the converter first and it's been that way ever since.

It drives just fine as a near stocker with the converter. Dipped into the 12's on stock rubber with just the above changes. The car was previously stuck at 13.20's with the stock converter. So it's completely changed the attitude of the car, yet still easily driveable, which is actually what the car is for most of the time.

These LS1's, even in stock form, work well with loose converters. These engines are rather small by todays standards (only 346 cubes) with somewhat large 200cc intake runners they are a bit soggy in power down low (below 25-3000 rpm), and don't make peak torque until close to 4,000 rpm. Not what you want a tight converter behind. Simply put, a 3,000+ converter makes it come alive.

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Originally Posted by Firebirdjones

You'll definately enjoy driving it after the stall converter. I also run a 3400 in mine and it just has a couple of bolt ons, namely headers and an off road Y.
I had planned a camshaft upgrade that still hasn't happened, so I did the converter first and it's been that way ever since.

It drives just fine as a near stocker with the converter. Dipped into the 12's on stock rubber with just the above changes. The car was previously stuck at 13.20's with the stock converter. So it's completely changed the attitude of the car, yet still easily driveable, which is actually what the car is for most of the time.

These LS1's, even in stock form, work well with loose converters. These engines are rather small by todays standards (only 346 cubes) with somewhat large 200cc intake runners they are a bit soggy in power down low (below 25-3000 rpm), and don't make peak torque until close to 4,000 rpm. Not what you want a tight converter behind. Simply put, a 3,000+ converter makes it come alive.

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this......and I think that's why a lot of the old school guys freak out over the larger stalls. They're just not used to the newer small block and where it likes to make power at. They're used to the old big blocks that were stump pullers down low.

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Originally Posted by 0rion

this......and I think that's why a lot of the old school guys freak out over the larger stalls. They're just not used to the newer small block and where it likes to make power at. They're used to the old big blocks that were stump pullers down low.

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Yep, I still like my stump pullers :D But the right converter behind an LS1 sure makes it feel bigger than it is.

Edit: You're familiar with stump pullers, hows the diesel treatin' ya??

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Originally Posted by Firebirdjones

Yep, I still like my stump pullers :D But the right converter behind an LS1 sure makes it feel bigger than it is.

Edit: You're familiar with stump pullers, hows the diesel treatin' ya??

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loving the duramax...won't ever own a gas burner truck again.

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Originally Posted by 0rion

loving the duramax...won't ever own a gas burner truck again.

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Cool, One of these days I'll have one :sulk:

convertor brands such as B&M,TCI,Hughes are production line manufactured and typically a stock item at the places we like to go shop for our needs. brands like Yank and CircleD,and others, are custom made for the application and because of that,stores don't list/show them.
anything less than 3000 stall rpm would be dissappointing. since your OEM stall is 1800rpm stall,doubling that to a 3500rpm stall typically/generally provides satisfaction.

A side point, purchase a SF-29 race grade flexplate, and some ARP grade 8 bolts, when you change your converter you are removing 3 of the 5 bolts that hold the flexplate anyway, so as long as you are in there .......

Do not forget a aftermarket transmission cooler, and a shift kit.

SteveC :)

Would a 3200 be ok for a DD with some ocasional RR or AutoX? I know anything over 3000 is gonna be good for drag. running a stock LS1 as of now. stock rear gears, guessing i have the 2.73s in there or whatever the lowesr one is :) cars a stock 98 TA for the most part. for now :)

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Originally Posted by Firebirdjones

You'll definately enjoy driving it after the stall converter. I also run a 3400 in mine and it just has a couple of bolt ons, namely headers and an off road Y.
I had planned a camshaft upgrade that still hasn't happened, so I did the converter first and it's been that way ever since.

It drives just fine as a near stocker with the converter. Dipped into the 12's on stock rubber with just the above changes. The car was previously stuck at 13.20's with the stock converter. So it's completely changed the attitude of the car, yet still easily driveable, which is actually what the car is for most of the time.

These LS1's, even in stock form, work well with loose converters. These engines are rather small by todays standards (only 346 cubes) with somewhat large 200cc intake runners they are a bit soggy in power down low (below 25-3000 rpm), and don't make peak torque until close to 4,000 rpm. Not what you want a tight converter behind. Simply put, a 3,000+ converter makes it come alive.

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It maks it easie to make the changes when you hear it from someone that did it alredy I am so anxious to buy the parts and can't wait for summer

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Originally Posted by SteveC

A side point, purchase a SF-29 race grade flexplate, and some ARP grade 8 bolts, when you change your converter you are removing 3 of the 5 bolts that hold the flexplate anyway, so as long as you are in there .......

Do not forget a aftermarket transmission cooler, and a shift kit.

SteveC :)

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Appreciate that I will I was going to buy a converter and it comes with clutches I think he said and a B&M cooler He told me a shift kit was not nescassary as it was electronic :stuck:

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Originally Posted by JoshuaGrooms83

Would a 3200 be ok for a DD with some ocasional RR or AutoX? I know anything over 3000 is gonna be good for drag. running a stock LS1 as of now. stock rear gears, guessing i have the 2.73s in there or whatever the lowesr one is :) cars a stock 98 TA for the most part. for now :)

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Yep as per these guys and I jkust called one of our sponsors and they said perfecto 3200 to 3600 seems to be the proper converter Lokk in your door and if it has a code GU5 you have 3:23's if not it's 2:73's like mine

My 99 with 109000 miles had 3:23's and I did notice a difference of the line but the converter will fixe that I can't wait and I ure hope I will love it as you guys do

You'll be happy I guarantee it.

Picking a stall number you want is a bit tricky. Depends on who you want to go with. Some manufactures build their converters to drive a little tighter than others, the number they provide is just a ballpark basically.

For instance, I was going to use a Vigilante, and they recommended a 3200 (but can't remember which STR) for the same car with the camshaft I had planned. I kinda felt that was tighter than I really wanted, but seeing so many vigilante converters in action and knowing they worked and worked good, I was going to take their advice. They offered one free restall too if I remember right.

I called a few others, and Fuddle recommended a 3400 stall with a 2.1 STR, so I knew it would hit hard. Talking to some other members I went with this converter along with the upgraded larger lockup clutch for another $200.
I'm happy with it. I'd say it actually drives around a little loose compared to some other stalled cars I have, but I don't have the cam in the car yet, which will tighten it up a tad.

Yeah but Orions truck is pink. Go with a man color at the least.

I gotta quit picking on Orion someday......nah

Orion is correct....I am as old school as still is alive.....and yes I came from the stump pullers (427Chevy/389 GTO /396 Chevelle/Z28 etc.) and a high stall was something I had to "learn"and these new fangled LSX motors :)
We are living the heyday of muscle cars....it was not in the 60's....it is today.
It is the reason I do so much work on the kids cars....the kids in my small town all "soup up" their cars and they know I will help and they canuse my tools/my rules and they all come to the house....keep the hobby alive man....pass it on to the younger generation.

What were we talking about?:sarge:

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Originally Posted by Durango

Appreciate that I will I was going to buy a converter and it comes with clutches I think he said and a B&M cooler He told me a shift kit was not nescassary as it was electronic :stuck:

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A "Transgo" shift kit will replace and beefup some of the internal parts of the transmission, replacing plastic parts with metal parts, I also replaced my 2-4 servo (external on side of transmission) with a "Superior" billet aluminum race unit for crisper shifts.

The entire process is more complicated than just replacing the converter, you will need several adjustments to the PCM (computer tune) to make everything work correctly, shift points, idle, lockup, which is best done on a dyno.

SteveC :)

The shift kit will allow much higher pressure (shift firmness) over a trannie with the lil plastic parts in it. Snap your neck type shift firmness.

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Originally Posted by Durango

Ok I went to order som parts at a local speed shop and they confused the heck out of me They told me I shouln't buy a high stall like that because I didn't have enough HP They were going to sell me a 2200 to 2400rpm and they don't carry Yank only B&M I've asked questions about stll's before and everyone are saying 3200rpm

I'm thinkin headers high flow cats y pipe exchaust and stall

OR

Hood intake an stall for now and th rest next year with a tune probably this strategy for now...... What do I do?????

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no less than 3500. buy online. the stall is not about the hp. which is most abundant above 4k rpms and up. its about tq to get the car off the line. which is made in the mid 3k rpms and up