why is the 92mm fast intake more then the 102mm fast intake?:hmm:
i would think since the 102mm would be more since its newer/bigger?
correct me if im wrong but looks like its 100-200 bucks more depending on what site you look at it on
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why is the 92mm fast intake more then the 102mm fast intake?:hmm:
i would think since the 102mm would be more since its newer/bigger?
correct me if im wrong but looks like its 100-200 bucks more depending on what site you look at it on
is it maybe because the fast 102mm intake has to have more money put into it for it to work properly?
With or without their TB?
Everything from them is priced extremely high.
Ya, Wilson's makes some of the best intakes in the business. Unfortunately you pay for it too.
Why the price difference from the 92-102mm??? Who knows, but when you are talking that much money for a complete intake setup,,,,$100 (give or take) doesn't make that much difference in my opinion.
just the intakes and do you guys like the 92mm better then the 102mm i thought about selling my ls6 intake and getting the fast 102mm
The Fast 92 mm intake is discontinued if I remember correctly. Might be hard to find a new one now
+1. You get what you pay for. Assuming your getting a complete intake set up (intake,throttle body, fuel rails etc...) an extra $100 is nothing considering the fact your looking at about $2000 for everything once its ported, if not more.
A lot of ppl run FAST intakes and have Tony Mamo and Nick Williams port the intake/throttle body. I dont know to what size though.
What are your plans for the car? I wouldnt spend 2 grand on an intake and throttle body if your doing just bolt ons. You would be surprised how many ppl run the LS6 intake with h/c and still produce great numbers. I would only get the FAST if you have plans on a stroker or a healthy h/c set up with some juice. For the money you spend on the intake and throttle body, you can have yourself a new moser 12 bolt/9 inch.
there are sponsor sites on ls1tech still selling the 92mm but that might be why they are more because of the low limit but my plans for the car are alot at the moment take a look at this it will help me and you
http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=141015
You will def need a new rear end to support that kind of power, and if you want to race it. I say buy a new rear then go from there. An intake swap shouldnt take more than 2-3 hours and you dont need a lift and to many power tools to do it unlike a rear. Your gonna need a much bigger cam and a good set of heads to get 450hp.
yeah i no im going to need a new rear end for sure and how big of a cam do you think i will need and witch heads to go with?
Are you on a budget? Do you drive the car a lot or is it a weekend/drag car?
i have a comp camps 224/230 .591 112 lsa as of right now and i can drive it just fine
also how bad is mt gas going to get after this haha
If your worried about gas mileage then don't mod it :D.
not really worried about it just wanting to know how bad its going to get i already have it mod mild click on the link below and see whats done so far
http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=141015
You know you could always get ls6 heads and have them ported.
Whatever you do, get them ported. You will be kicking yourself later and the power is really worth it. A good set of heads are certainly not cheap, but im pretty sure the LS6 heads should come with springs and the other valvetrain stuff. Why not pick up a set of used heads? Check out LS1tech, there classifieds are HUGE.
I wouldn't bother with buying unported heads and then getting them ported after the fact. Finding a good reputable shop is difficult. If you do know of one, the labor isn't cheap. Not many even bother with much hand porting anymore other than to touch up what a CNC didn't do. The ones that port completely by hand and are any good at it will spend several days on and off the flow bench. If they don't at least have an idea of what these 15 degree heads like, I wouldn't let them touch the heads. Easy to ruin a set.
With that said I'd spring for heads already CNC ported. Most reputable LS shops have a pretty good handle on what works with head porting now, they've been out for the better part of 12 years now. Some are still better than others, and you'll get what you pay for.
Since you already have a 224/230 cam I'd stick with that. Invest your money on the best heads you can afford. On a budget alot of people go for the CNC ported patriot LS6 heads, but I hear of alot of dissapointed dyno numbers,,,seems everyone wants a dyno queen,,,and since you are wanting 450 rwhp,,,,well,,,,,I'd probably go straight for some AFR's or Trickflows and see where that gets ya. At that point you need to decide if you want to spend the coin for a FAST intake or stick with an LS6.
It sounds to me you are looking at every little HP advantage you can, in which case the FAST would be your choice.
i have heard bad news on trickflow staying away from them for how much they cost and afr i have heard good but heard that the ls6 are just as good if ported can do just as well as the afrs
and if im aiming for higher numbers i have been told i will atleast need to get a 230 or bigger cam i can sell my ls6 polish black intake and heads and cam just around tulsa or on the site if i want to upgrade all of these things and my car will be down awhile in less i get another job or raise can put about a 1000 in to it ever month and ahalf got a grand saved for now could maybe get close to another grand with the heads cam and intake if i leave the heads assembled with springs push rods and pistons
i am not saying your wrong just what i have heard from some other fbody owners and people who have had trick flow
how ever i have also heard trick flow are the best heads you can get and will get you some good numbers just not willing to take that chance for the money
Nothing wrong with the Trickflows, I've used their 18 degree heads on a gen 1 build and loved the power they made.
I've seen many applications make good power on LS engines as well. Keep in mind they offer a 13.5 degree head that gives them a nice flow advantage over the other 15 degree heads on the market.
As far as ported LS6's,,,I have yet to see a set that is even comes close to comparing to a set of AFR's.
You might get similar peak flow numbers from hogged out LS6's,,,but they in no way come close to mid lift flow numbers on the AFR's.
I'd go out on a limb and say the AFR's are about as good as it gets for cathedral port 15 degree heads. Even their mid lift numbers are comparable to the 13.5 degree Trickflows, and that's saying alot.
If you picked the right set of heads along with a fast intake setup you can come close (if not make) you power goals with the same camshaft you are currently running. I've heard from a few tuners that is a very popular camshaft you are running, and makes close to 400 rwhp as it is with an LS6 intake and stock heads. With that said you are only ~50 hp away from your goals, and I believe an excellent set of heads and Fast intake will get you there. Not to mention make for a much more friendly setup to drive. I've seen even smaller cams come close to your power goals with AFR heads and a Fast setup.
Going the other route, with crappy heads and bigger cam might get your power goal,,,,,but it would make the engine peaky and overall miserable to drive for a street car.
It's all a matter of how much you want to spend, what you are willing to sacrafice and how fast you want to go.
Most of the ppl who buy AFR heads are not on a budget...
Between the AFR heads and a ported FAST 90/90 your looking at an easy $4000+, and I hope you can install all that by yourself. I say save up and build it once you know you can as opposed to having to sacrifice a few $.
Exactly, and when you are working on these computer controlled fuel injected cars, I don't see how the word "budget" even fits into the equation to be completely honest about it.
These aren't the glory days anymore when you could buy a brand new muscle car for $3,495 and spend about $100-$200 to tweak it, jump in NHRA S/E per index and be competitive. :(
as money goes i can put a 1000 in to it about every 2 months maybe month and a half just because of bills wish i was still 17 or 18 not paying bills haha could put a 1000 into it ever 2 weeks
and speed i am want to take it to the drags every now and then maybe a weekend every month or two but only race when i get something new done to it i so after i go and find what numbers i can get probably wil just go to watch but as far is rolls i do race from 40 and 60 depends on what they roll
this is why i just dont know what heads to go with id like to see some video set ups of cams close to mine with heads wish i would have got a video of mine before i started tearing it down of the idle but if i do go with trickflow or afr or any heads other then my stock ones for now i will get a bigger cam also
I'd probably concentrate more on track time and not worry so much about dyno numbers.
Doing mods a little at a time and seeing what they are worth at the track is alot of fun. Shoot for an ET goal and see how close you can get.
only this is i dont like drag racing much i like rolls more and car shows (not really competing in them just looking at others cars) im not really aiming only for dyno just would like to have more power to keep up with some cars from around here and beat some of them but would like to say that i have 440+ or so would be nice and feel good to say
I know ppl who say "I have 400 horsepower" and can pretty much kill most cars on the road (given a certain price range of course). Like mentioned above, hp numbers dont mean anything. Its all about how quickley you can cross the finish line. Given a good driver and the right parts, 450hp in a LS1 can see 10's. Get a set of ported 243's and call it a day.
Yep, there are 360 rwhp cars that run 11's,,,and there are 400 rwhp cars that run 12's. Dyno's are all over the place. Which is why I take that with a grain of salt. What it runs at the track is all that counts. Dyno's are just tuning tools. A good operator used to his dyno can tell you what the car may run based off what the car makes, but you would have to consistently visit the same dyno and operator to see honest results from your changes. A different dyno is a different story.
And what's with this roll racing stuff :tired: Real men go from a dig ;)
is this a good set of heads
PRC stage 2.5 5.3 heads 202/160 valves that are stainless steel rev race valves. 59cc chamber, they bench flowed 316 cfm on intake side at 600 lift and 248 cfm exhaust at 600 lift. valve springs are good for 625 lift friend is selling them
how do you know if they are 243s? first ls1 last car was a v6 camaro only 19 still learning haha
If they are 5.3 heads, they won't be LS6's.
The 5.3 heads are popular because the small combustion chambers bump the compression.
But the LS6 heads do the same thing, bumping 1/2 point to 10.5. So I'm guessing the 5.3's will bump the compression higher than that.
Guess that's the difference between youth today and when I was a kid. Never did much (if any) of that roll race stuff. It was mainly stop light wars that were over after 2-3 gears. And anything we had organized on a vacant road was done from a dig. Most races are done after about 60-70 mph,,,,none of this "lets see if I can drive around you" 120+ mph high speed nonsense. May as well race at the Salt Flats :lol:
Probably why I'm still alive.
In that case, the 5.3 heads are a popular swap. The LS6 heads have a 64cc chamber I believe, so the 5.3's are probably tighter than that. Might make an 11:1 motor if I had to guess. Maybe others that use them can chime in here.
If those flow numbers are accurate, they have a nice I/E ratio of close to 80%. Would have to see the whole chart to form an opinion on the mid lift flow.
i hardly ever race i like watching mostly but i do race from time to time and i am careful when i race make sure theres not traffic and know the road like pot holes,if its wet anything like that but i do know what your saying thats why i dont do it much i ride with friends and record the race alot to
Just be carefull. I was 18 when I got my trans am and I did so much stupid shit with it, that im surprised im still alive. :sillyme:
yes i know thank you though
heres a vid of some of the cars that i see ever weekend this was last month at about 2 am on 169 in tulsa
http://www.streetfire.net/video/tuls...-2_2019375.htm
dont they have a stage 2.5 of these? what dose the cc stand for am i looking for lower or higher
thanks a lot you guys for helping me out on some of these dumb nube questions haha :brick2:
Please don't post direct links to non sponsors. :)
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ok 1. roll races are for pussys ...period. real men run from a dig and they do it at the strip.
2. for your number goals dont even waste your time with the 243s,852 and 706 ..do it right...power = money ..you need to pay big to play big. the AFRs are in the top 3 cathedral style heads on the market period ...you will see awesome gains in the low to mid. the top end is where the afr will show its "weakness" if you want to call it that..however now AFR has not only 205s but 215s and 225s ..i think i missed one but anyways for most 346s much over the 225s is rare with AFR. TFS shows great gains all across the board...especially in the top end. both are great heads. i will be running AFRs no questions asked..but i will be going with a ls3 engine. so my needs will be different
CC is the combustion chamber volume. A smaller number will raise the compression ratio.
Really depends on the end goal of the car as to what compression you want to shoot for.
11:1 on the street is easy on pump gas with aluminum heads on an N/A motor. Some push it a bit further but the tune has to be spot on.
LS6 heads will bump the compression 1/2 point in stock form. Some heads are milled to bump compression so be carefull buying used stuff.
I agree with wut ur saying but the kid is 19 and he is on a budget. The vids he posted were about H/C vettes and 6.0 camaro's racing. I agree with what your saying, but if he saved up a bit and bolted up a set of AFR's to a 402 LS2, he would def benefit from the extra cubes.
OP the bottom line is MONEY=SPEED in this case. The deeper your wallet is, the faster your car will be. Ask anyone who has really modded their cars on this site (and there are a few), they werent really stretching to much with the build. They didnt cut corners for a couple hundred bucks when they were throwing thousands into the car, and neither should you. Modding isnt cheap to begin with, let alone H/C/I, strokers etc... Put it this way-
Heads (should you save and get trick flows or AFR) $2000-2500
New rear- $2000 (give or take)
FAST 90/90 (if you wanna port it)- $2000 at least
Cam- (optional) $300 (Throw in another couple hundred for springs if they dont come with it, or arent rated for the high lift etc..)
Tuning- $500-700 (Depending on the rate per hour ect..)
Your looking at upwards of $7000 plus taxes and all the other little ods and ends. I know your young and want speed, at your age who doesnt. But ask yourself is its really worth throwing 7k into a car just to say "I have 450 horsepower). What are you gonna do once those vettes and maros start spraying and adding a s/c?
most of the guys here already have spray the vets and one camaro do the rest dont want it i just dont want to blow my block up with it or spend 6 grand on a s/c or p/c but i would be willing to buy a engine foe 7 or 8 grand because mine has 134xxx on it dont no how long it wil last befor i have to start buy things for it any way
I need some advice on DOT Street Radials Drag Tires. My question is what is the biggest tire I can out on my 2000 Camaro? What is a good tire? What rim do I need? I don’t want to grind down my calipers like I seen some do.
What size did u have in mind?
i think my best bet right now is to let it sit and clean it up and do everything i want to the inside and clean it up and under neath it and save for a new block or really good heads and then a block :villagers: wish i could win the lottery and just throw a ls9 in there and get a ws6 haha :nana:
A high mileage motor really changes the perspective of things. Wasn't aware of that before.
In that case I'd start looking at crate motors as suggested. Although swapping in the LQ motors with more cubes from Texas Speed and the like would be nice. Those aren't simple swaps. They require wiring harness extensions for sensors that have been moved to different locations, fuel system upgrades, and it just goes on and on. It starts adding up quickly.
It's a great idea for a weekend toy. But for what HP level you want to accomplish you really don't need a stroker.
I didn't go back and read the whole thread again, but aren't we talking about a daily driver??
Wanna hear a funny story?
I found a dollar on the floor and went to buy a lotto ticket with it. I bought the mega millions which comes out on tuesday and friday. On Wed morning when I checked my ticket I didnt even get one number. But on Friday, EVERY SINGLE number came out that I had on Tuesday. Was worth 88 million, I felt depressed for a week and wanted to kill myself.
Either way you look at it, he's still gonna be paying a packet for what he wants. Sure the stroker will initially cost more, but over time it ends up working out the same. Once he reaches 450hp, he will most likley want more. There is no way he can make more power w/o going FI. That being said, if he bought a stroker and a forged rotating assembly, he could spray all he wants to and not worry about the bottom end blowing up. He could actually buy a procharger and not worry when he ups the boost. Almost anything he needs for the stroker/new motor (injectors,heads,cam,intake etc...) he will most likley need right now. If he spends a few thousand more, he will def benefit from the extra cubes, and the possibilities are endless after that.
It really depends on what he honestly wants and/or does with the car. It's a sickness. When it gets that far out of control, then another daily driver is needed. :rotfl:
As far as stuff needed right now,,,I was thinking along the lines of using what he already has. His HP goal is small, and could be accomplished with an LS6 crate engine, stab a cam in it and call it done. Everything else transfers over just fine. Simple swap, nothing custom. Easy to make 400+ rwhp with an LS6 and a decent cam.
Agreed. The mod bug is highley contageous and doesnt have a cure. I had it, then sold my car. Hurts me everyday, but the $ I got from it I invested and made a nice profit. Im more concerned about making more money right now, and not throwing it into cars. :news:
yeah i dont really know what im going to do because i got to get a house soon to and dont wan to have to sell the car after im done haha it would be a shame so for now i think a decent set of heads and intake with a k member will be just fine and just some paint and cleaning under the hood then get the other crap like the rear end and sfc lower and uper control arms and start adding power :zoom:
Didnt know you had plans on buying a house. In that case I wouldnt throw money into it now. If you have to sell the car, not only will you get fucked over on the resale value on the car (its got 134k on it) but you probably wont even get half the money you spent on the parts. Hoping nothing goes wrong when you add h/c to a 134k mile car, is like holding a gun to your head and hoping nothing goes bad once you pull the trigger. Something bad will happen, and then you will be back to square one. Not to mention, should you decided to get heads specifically for the stock 346, you cant use them on a 402/408 once your motor blows or something bad happens.
yeah i want to get my own place next year tired of renting cant do anything to the house you want the only good thing out of rent is if something messes up all you do is tell the home owner and it get fixed if your the home owner it comes out of your pocket haha
but yeah the block long block and heads are all that have 134xxx i think the push rods and value springs and and intake wire ect.. were all put on less then 10xxx oh and the cam
ill be sure to keep you guys updated on what i do
Just saying that tearing open a 134k mile motor and changing the internals is asking for trouble. I wouldnt really do it.
WTF? Your 19 and want to buy a house already?
Not really topic related, but if its a matter of you getting a house or modding the car Shane, get the house first and put the car mods on hold.
yeah dont like renting and not getting anywere with it id rather start paying now then own it sooner not planing on haveing a huge house just a simlpe 2 bedroom or like a 3 garage on bottom with a just huge room with kiten and batrom on top :devil: sounds like my dream place haha
Hello there. Anyone selling a fast 90 or 92 intake?