lifter going out

hey guys, just took my car in for a diagnosis because I was getting some ticking from the engine. Found out I most likely have a lifter going out.
I was told if I replace 1 I should at least replace that whole side because it is going to be a very expensive job.
What should this job cost? If side matters it is the passenger side.
I haven't been quoted a price for it yet but if its not too much more I might have a cam swap done considering they will already be half way there.
Would this be a good idea? My car's stock other than flowmaster cat back and K&N but I'm planning lt's and stall money permitting in the future.
Thanks in advance

Most shops charge at least $100 an hour. The thing is the replacement lifters are now all ls-7 lifters which are slightly larger than the ls-1's and require a slightly shorter pushrod, at least for me it would be weird to have the valve train different than one side. I can see them charging you at least 5 hours for the job and you will need head gaskets, head bolts, and new lifters. If you are mechanically savvy I would opt to do it yourself, is this a gm mechanic or just a general mechanic I don't know the area well around gold country.

Oh do they have smog around that area just curious?

He is just a general mechanic.
Thats a good heads up on the shorter pushrods. Then I could see it needing to be replaced on both sides at once.
I've never done internal engine work before so I don't know if I should make this my first try.
Surprised you knew I was in gold country. We do have to smog but only upon transfer of titles.

why would he need head gaskets etc ? it doesnt require you to take the heads off to do.

lifters are something you could do in your garage if you are up to it..save you on a lot of money.

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Originally Posted by pk222

He is just a general mechanic.
Thats a good heads up on the shorter pushrods. Then I could see it needing to be replaced on both sides at once.
I've never done internal engine work before so I don't know if I should make this my first try.
Surprised you knew I was in gold country. We do have to smog but only upon transfer of titles.

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check out ls1howto.com at their step by step on swapping heads. If you're mechanically inclined at all you can do this job using that guide. It's a very good guide that tells you everything you need to know.

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Originally Posted by shady milkman

why would he need head gaskets etc ? it doesnt require you to take the heads off to do.

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sure you do...heads have to come off to get the lifters out.

That looks like a very detailed guide and I'll read through it a couple times to see if I think I'm up to it.
If the lifter gets to bad, what could actually happen? The shop I went to Isn't sure it is a lifter. They think its either a lifter or just how the roller rockers sound in these cars. So I was told to keep driving it and bring it back if the noise got worse.

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Originally Posted by shady milkman

why would he need head gaskets etc ? it doesnt require you to take the heads off to do.

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Talking lifter's here, heads are coming off.

OP, if you have some time, tools, and maybe a buddy to help, you can do this. Like Orion noted, that guide is great. I think we have all used it before. That said, I don't think I would be yanking the heads off on one shops opinion. It is quite a bit of work, and it would be a good idea to do some more diagnosing before jumping into it.

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Originally Posted by Hi-Po

Talking lifter's here, heads are coming off.

OP, if you have some time, tools, and maybe a buddy to help, you can do this. Like Orion noted, that guide is great. I think we have all used it before. That said, I don't think I would be yanking the heads off on one shops opinion. It is quite a bit of work, and it would be a good idea to do some more diagnosing before jumping into it.

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agreed....I would look at pushrods first. Have you ever missed a shift or bounced the car off the limiter?

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Originally Posted by pk222

He is just a general mechanic.
Thats a good heads up on the shorter pushrods. Then I could see it needing to be replaced on both sides at once.
I've never done internal engine work before so I don't know if I should make this my first try.
Surprised you knew I was in gold country. We do have to smog but only upon transfer of titles.

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I am in the bay area and my folks have a cabin around your area. I would love to find out if I could transfer some info over to there so I wouldn't have to bother with smog every 2 years:devil:
Agreed with hi-po and orion it may be a bent pushrod. Or does this ticking sound only happen when it's cold and go away? If it does than that is normal. When he used the code reader did he give you the number it read? I would try and see that number for myself and get back on here and do a search for a thread that gives you all the definitions of the codes read.

Is there any way of figuring out if it is an actual lifter problem without replacing the lifters? I could try to check the pushrods. Also would the lifters cause vibrations? I'm getting bad vibrations at about 3500 rpm. For all I know this could be how the car is supposed to be but I doubt it.
Im thinking of taking it too another shop to get a second opinion but I'm trying not to drive the car as much as possible because I don't want to cause further damage. Would it be better to bring it to an actual gm dealership?

Thatd be a good idea c5z28. I've lucked out a lot with that

lucked out on the smog? I really hope that is what you mean:D.

Now about that vibration is that strictly motor related or happens when you are in motion? Since you said 3500rpm I suppose it is motor related but if it is in motion you can do a few things. Take it up to the speed it vibrates at if it vibrates in 4th put it into 3rd if it stops you know there is a problem with 4th (or any particular gear you try etc). If that does not work put it in neutral (at speed)if sound stops then motor related, or take it past the sound and let it coast down to speed of vibration if it does it in neutral then problem is in the rear end.
Now all that above is if it happens in motion otherwise I can only say something stupid like motor mounts or the catalytic converters have loose bits inside.

Ya, I meant the smog. Didn't have any problems with smogging this car but both my mustangs were a long painful process.
I've noticed it at anything above 3000 rpm in any gear. If I'm around 2000 rpm in 4th going 60 then shift to D it will bring the rpms above 3000 and the vibration will come. Ive noticed it in all the gears and if I'm moving and have it in neutral and rev it around 3-4000 rpm. I haven't tried just revving while stopped to see but I will try tomorrow.
Although my tires are far from balanced it still doesn't seem to be that.
I was told by the previous owner that he installed poly urethane engine and traney mounts but he also told me the engine had been replaced under 10,000 miles ago at a dealership.

poly mounts will transfer more vibrations into the cabin....you could try swapping the tranny mount back to a stock mount and see if that helps.

If it just from the mounts I'm not worried about it and all of my cars have had poly or solid mounts.
I'm just worried if its an actual engine problem the vibration is affecting me in no way.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Hi-Po

Talking lifter's here, heads are coming off.

OP, if you have some time, tools, and maybe a buddy to help, you can do this. Like Orion noted, that guide is great. I think we have all used it before. That said, I don't think I would be yanking the heads off on one shops opinion. It is quite a bit of work, and it would be a good idea to do some more diagnosing before jumping into it.

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Do EXACTLY what HI-PO & ORION have suggested. Trust ME, you DO not want to pull the heads and all other items off if you aren't 100% sure it IS a lifter......however listening to your mechanical symptoms it could be a variety of things that's causing this tick.....Good luck...

Would a lifter be a symptom of vibrations and clacking? What else could I check out? Timing chain, Pushrods and rockers? The noise can be heard louder when the oil fill plug(whatever the correct terminology is) is removed.
Also a small amount of steam can be seen if either that or the oil dipstick are pulled if that means anything?
I'm really really hoping both I and the mechanic are being paranoid and there really isn't a problem but he told me taking the car to the track would be a horrible idea obviously until I fix this. But really come on.. Did I buy a camaro to drive like a grandma? And it is a could be not a definet problem yet, considering myself and the mechanic are new to ls1's. So I guess I will go threw at least one more inspection before I go though all this work to to just throw back in the stock
components.
Sorry about the rant

If you open the oil cap the valve train is right underneath it, that is why it might be louder:).
A good mechanic can find the source with a stethoscope, a poor one might here normal sounds and freak out.
I don't know if it was asked but does the car throw the ses light?

I understand that, I said that to ensure it wasn't something aside from the upper end of the motor such as the timing chain or main bearings.
The check engine light was on once for a bad 02, I changed it and its never come back on. The security light is on but I don't think that is relevant to this.
Would a gm specific dealer be better to take this to or should I try to find a regular mechanic?

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Originally Posted by pk222

I understand that, I said that to ensure it wasn't something aside from the upper end of the motor such as the timing chain or main bearings.
The check engine light was on once for a bad 02, I changed it and its never come back on. The security light is on but I don't think that is relevant to this.
Would a gm specific dealer be better to take this to or should I try to find a regular mechanic?

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They would be better but I have heard stories of dealership mechanic forgetting to put the oil back in after an oil change:D
Newtechperformance or Synergy performance in the bay area specialize in our cars, just google them and you will get the sight.
Otherwise post a vid?

Almost makes you wish something like that would happen. Get a fresh engine for free I say thats a risk I'm willing to take haha.
Looks like synergy would be the closest. Only about a 4 hour drive..
As soon as I can I'll try to post a vid but I don't know how well it could describe it either. When I make it I'll go through idle all around the motor and light throttle and then with the oil cap removed. But that narrows it down to anything in the top end. Am I right? Lifters, rockers, pushrods... Anything I could be missing? It could tell if it is just the normal noise of the roller rockers but I doubt that.

take it past the sound and let it coast down to speed of vibration if it does it in neutral then problem is in the rear end.

As a follow up - I had a bad U-joint that caused vibrations at 40-50 mph (in another car).

I just had the u joints changed not even a week ago.

And it makes the noise and vibration when I'm not moving so it has to be an engine or maybe even torque converter problem but I really don't know anything about torque converters I've just heard they can cause vibrations if their going bad.

would a lifter cause vibrations?
Also how would you differentiate lifter noise to that of rockers or pushrods?

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Originally Posted by pk222

would a lifter cause vibrations?
Also how would you differentiate lifter noise to that of rockers or pushrods?

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Best way is to see if a pushrod is bent. If it is a pushrod at least you won't have to take the heads off.
I forgot if you had a polyurethane trans mount or poly motor mounts. When I put in a poly trans mount it vibrated like a somebitch until I put the stocker back in. If you have poly motor mounts I would change them back to rubber.

So would I be able to take a valve cover off and check the lash between the pushrod and rocker to tell me anything? I was told these are not adjustable and once they show any clearance they need to be replaced and will cause the noise I'm getting but this was someone who didn't know much about my particular engine. If this would do nothing I don't mind pulling the pushrods to check to see if they were bent. I just really want to avoid pulling the heads if I don't need to.
They are poly mounts from what I've been told but keep forgetting the check while under the car, there is still the ticking if the vibration is nothing.

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Originally Posted by shady milkman

why would he need head gaskets etc ? it doesnt require you to take the heads off to do.

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What engine are you thinking of lol??

No that would be too easy to not have to take the heads off..
Does anyone know if theres anything I can check aside from pulling the heads? I know I can check the pushrods without pulling the heads as well as the rocker arms but how would I check the rocker arms? Also can I check the lash between the pushrod and rocker to come up with anything?
I appreciate all the help so far but I'm still a little lost