Been studying and learning on engine oil for over 25 years now....
as we are starting the board again thought I'd solicit a lil poll:)
There are some folks out there that still think 0-30 is lighter than 5-30:)
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Been studying and learning on engine oil for over 25 years now....
as we are starting the board again thought I'd solicit a lil poll:)
There are some folks out there that still think 0-30 is lighter than 5-30:)
Depends on the car.....
My camaro gets syn
My buick gets dino, doesn't leak at fast
My vette has been on dino but now that the engine is broke in i'm switching to syn
Full Synthetic.
Liquid dinosaur in all my cars, fake stuff in my bikes.
synthetic in my T/A for quite awhile now
Hey CB..use to terrorize Richardson back in the 70's:) Welcome to the board man.....
dino
Mobil One
dino for me
Mobil One from the factory, Mobil One every oil change :shrug:
I use mobil 1 even in my lawn mower. The only thing I don't use mobil on is my Fiero due to its oil leaking problem. I also try and only use Purolater Pure ONE Filters.
Sarge, www.Bobistheoilguy.com
Purolator=good
Fram=bad
Hahahaha^^^ I've been a regular there since day one:)Quote:
Originally Posted by Blitzed
Wanna talk about GC 0-30? The old filter test? Great web site for oil junkies for sure....
Since you guys are so knowledgeable about oil, is Royal Purple really a "better" oil? I also use Mobil One Synthetic and wonder if paying the extra $ is worth it. I'm sure the answer is no, synthetic is synthetic, but hey it doesn't hurt to ask.
Short answer...no Royal Purple is not "better" oil than Mobil 1. However it depends on your viewpoint here...RP uses heavy doses of Phospherous as a additive.....this is good for cleaning etc. Mobil 1 5-30 thins out to a 20 weight after less than 500 miles.....the friction modifiers are superior in Mobil 1 but the add packs are superior in RP (rust/oxidation/engine cleaning agents etc)...so if you look at Used Oil Analysis you see Mobil 1 has better wear results after 5000-/+ Oil Change Intervals but RP provides better long term protection on engine tear down and ring wear......Me...I use Amsoil 0-30 and KN Filters....love you long time baby:)
you got that right!Quote:
Originally Posted by 91Z28
Back in the day...when Fram was made by Champion Labs...all was well...flowed good/great construction etc....Now they are made of cardboard and glued together in Wayintheback of fucking malaysia.....POS...do not buy anything Fram....
Been using Dino for over 10 years with good results.
I am a long time reader of Bobs site :) My g/f thinks i'm super dork for reading about motor oil haha
Lucas also ='s bad IMO!, I know some of you love it like hell but I don't its no big deal ;)
I used a blend since I change my oil every 3k miles.
Chalk one up for another Fan of Amsoil 0W-30, I also use their SD-64 filters since they go 6,000 miles. I was using K&N since they make it easy to get the filter on an off with a socket wrench, but they only last 3,000 miles.
Mobil One for me.
royal purple!!!
moble one every 3,000 miles
Mobil 1 0w40
What weight would you recommend for the Summer (80-100F) and Winter (0-40F)?Quote:
Originally Posted by GatorSS
0w40 all year.
Amsoil, the only 100% syn
Mobil 1 5w30 here. Have been using Lucas synthetic oil stabilizer as well but after looking around on Bob's site looks like I'll be trashing what I have left of it. I feel dumb for paying $15 a quart for it at Autozone. Been using Mobil filters as well just outta lack of knowing which brand to choose. May switch to Purolator now, seems awful popular here.
Valvoline Full Synth... Every 3 to 3.5 thousand miles... 5w30.. I won't use Dino in a car I want to keep for a while... and I will NEVER use a Pennzoil Product!!!
Castrol Syntec 0W-30 "Green" mixed w/ Valvoline Synpower oil treatment. Also have an inverse oiler filled w/ Marvel Mystery oil for the top end.
I have over 80 quarts of German Castrol 0-30 in the garage....all 03/04 vintage...
I'm sittin' on 48 Greens myself ((6) MO2's & the rest MO4).
i used that last time i changed oil... didnt buy it my dad did for my moms car. what did his site say about it?Quote:
Originally Posted by Rabbit
Its kinda hard to explain. Check it out for yourself. www.Bobistheoilguy.com It basically lets the oil turn into a big foamy mess when it is agitated.
i use sythetic oil in my mustang and dirt bike. basically anything high performance. my daily driver jeep gets dino oil quality dino oil and i havent ever had so much of a hiccup out of the 4.0. i think oil in general as long as you use a quality brand is not as important as frequent changing and driving the car fairly hard to make the engine circulate the oil. i havent ever ran into a case of an engine failing do to poor engine oil. oil filters on the other hand lol fram is worse then they say it is. cut one open with a wizz wheel and then tell me you want your engine to have such an inferior product filter your engines life blood. oh yeah mobil1 10w30 in the stang. i get it cheap at wal mart.
I've used Mobil 1 Synthetic since I bought my 1990 Grand Am Quad 4 car new (i miss that car). I had that car for 10 years, 142k miles and the guy who worked on it for me said the engine was in very good shape, thought it was less than 100k so i think the oil (and regular oil changes) deserves some of the credit.
Use Mobil 1 10-30 in both my 2002 T/A and my wife's 2002 Grand Am. (it doesn't get very cold here)
since everyone's talking about oil...i changed mine a few weeks ago for the first time (just got my Z28 :yup: ) and i had to use 6 qts and it is still a little less than a 1/4 qt low. I've pretty much owned nothing but 350's my whole life and they took around 5 and 3/4 qts. Was there a option for a deep sump on the Z's? Anyone else have to put in 6 qts? :think:
If your Z28 is an LS1 car then it has composite lifter holders for quick cam swaps and im just guessing but they probobly hold 1/2 a qt total. I wondered the same thing when i first got my 99 TA.
What weight is best during a 0-40F season?
And during a 60-100F season?
mobil 1 every 3k
mobil 1 5w-30 every 2-3k miles
I work on an offroad race truck and we run oil temp gauges and found the following:Quote:
Originally Posted by 91Z28
during a fifteen minute race our oil temps would get up to 300+ if using any non synthetic oils
Mobil one dropped the oil temps by about twenty degrees to 280 and switching to amsoil we dropped it to about 250-260 .......this is not representative of everyday usage but keep in mind that the water temp stays always inbetween 180-200 at all times no matter which oil.....so all in all it is kind of an accepted opinion that Mobil 1 is the cheapest and least effective of the synthetics but all of the higher end oils.......Amsoil, Royal Purple, etc. work better under extreme conditions. I guess it all depends on what your uses are. I just have my own opinions formed because of the info stated above.
Sarge how often do you change your oil?Quote:
Originally Posted by Sarge
You can't judge an oil by simply looking at oil temperature...Quote:
Originally Posted by Liquifire
Ive been using mobil 1 5-30 and mobil 1 filter since the car was new and i change every 2500 ive had no problems
I don't think this is necessary unless you race the car every day...I thought that stuff was really good for at least 5k miles but people just do 3k to be on the safe side. It can't hurt though.Quote:
Originally Posted by RED02HAWK
No but you can sure as hell judge the friction modifiers and viscosity enhancements ("ers) by the temp:) I beleive that is what his point is.....Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackHawk T/A
On the Goat is not a good indicator for "normal OCI's....depends on what we are doing....drag strip/flying mile....I change afterwards regardless....garage queen/street beast...every three months...condensation doesn't care if your running synthetics or dino:) Now the daily driver Dodge R/T....every 5000 miles or 6 months.....I'm running GC 0-30 in it right now....Quote:
Originally Posted by Liquifire
I am not trying to judge the oil simply by this ....but there are some interesting characteristics of individual oils that should be taken into consideration while trying to pick which oil suits your budget and/or needs. A lot depends on the individual preference or application.Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackHawk T/A
:yup:Quote:
Originally Posted by Sarge
Yup i'm just saying after reading about oil analysis results (what's left in the oil after its drained) you learn there is more to take into consideration.
I agreeQuote:
Originally Posted by BlackHawk T/A
You seem to be implying that 0-30 is not lighter than 5-30, I'm not sure what the point is.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sarge
I became really interested in oils and their suitability about a year ago when I had to chose an oil for my new engine, and researched it alot. It was pretty interesting, and complicated. I did a lot of internet research, and I also found a tribologist (friction-wear-lubrication engineer -- spouse of a co-worker) to talk to and asked her some questions about oil and lubrication)
Oils vary from one manufacturer to another, so one company's 0-30 can be a lot different than another company's 0-30 even though both are labeled the same: they may be rated against different standards, or just tested slightly different, and still meet the appropriate standard for that definition, like 0-30
But thickness varies with temperature which is, off course, the whole point of the dual rating 0-30. the first number is the cold rating and the last a higher temp rating -- I forget what now but the data was out there, I dug down in various websites for Mobile, Pennzoil and Castrol and elsewhere , and can go enough data to plot SAE viscousity-versus-oil-temperature-curves for most of the popular auto oils (Mobil1, etc.) from 0 to 255 deg F. The data was buried in the technical spec sheets attached to their web sites, always in a different format, etc., but the same values to the same SAE standard definitions. The curves show how each particular oil varies in viscosity --basically thickness-- from cold to very hot.
One thing I did discover, is that within nearly any manufacturer's product line, a 10-40, for example, will be thicker at ALL temperatures, than a 0-40: In my ignorance, I expected that the "10" would be thicker at cold temps than the 0-40, but the same thickness at high temps since both have the 40 rating. But plotting the curves for all grades of the same type of Mobil1, for example, or various Pennzoil syn oils, shows that is not quite the case: a 10-30 was much thicker at low temps than a 0-30, but still slightly thicker at high temps.
Looking at the various grades and the curves available, and knowing that my vette, like all LS strokers, is hard on oil temp, I picked a Mobil1 0-40 European syn for winter spring and fall (Note, they recently changed the labeling on this oil to delete the "European" and it did not meet certain SAE codes, but I selected it anyway - it was the factory oil in Porsche turbos so I felt it would probably be okay). Although a 0-40, its thinner at low temps than most "5 - XXs" and all other "0-40s" I could find but according to the curves its noticeably thicker at high temps than any other 0-40 and some 10-40s I could find."
What I learned is not to trust the ratings and to dig down to the spec sheets, and that the good oil suppliers provide that data on their web sites.
By the way it is a suberb oil although I use the 15-50 oil during the 100 deg summers here - my vette runs oil up past 230 deg F when its running hard.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blitzed
Agreed with one exception. Lucas pure synthetic oil stabilizer by itself works great in the turret. Have found none better. That's a lot more than can be said for its' advertised purpose.
Granted, just about anything works in the turret, but, that stuff really makes it easy on the shifting.
:yup: That's why I run Mobil 1 0w40 year 'round. If I were running at the track in the summer, I might substitute a quart or two or three with 15w50. On the street, I control myself pretty well so the 0w40 is fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rhino21149
How high does your oil temp run when you're running it hard? For how long?
My LS1 likes cocktails. It gets a steady diet of Castrol 0-W30 (German), 6 oz. of Valvoline SynPower oil treatment, 2-3 oz. of AutoRx; K&N long (2006) filter. Change once or twice a year. Usually in the spring after winter storage.
The 3.4L Buick (daily driver) likes Amsoil 5W-30 & 2 oz. of AutoRx; K&N (1001) filter. Change every 5,000 or 6 months.
Both engines have pre-oilers to elliminate unlubricated start-ups & invers oilers filled w/Marvel Mystery oil for top end lubrication & to keep the intake clean. Haven't had to clean the throttle body or intake since using MMO through the inverse oilers. They're awesome!
Where do you have the MMO entering the throttle body/intake?
Spec sheets are what drives the decision on oils for sure....or should I say they eliminate the Internet experts "knowledge"....my comment was more specific to the "assumptions" and "Internet knowledge" of many a enthusiast.....0-30 is often times referred to as a winter oil or a very thin viscosity oil...you and I both know that is the farthest from the truth....cSt @100c (212 Degrees) tells the viscosity story much better from the spec sheets....Quote:
Originally Posted by Rhino21149
It's Teed into the PCV valve line between the PCV valve & the intake manifold.Quote:
Originally Posted by GatorSS
That's what I figured would be best since the PCV line is the source for most of the "dirt" that gets into the intake. An alternative might be the line from the valve cover to the top left of the throttle body since that is the source for some of the "dirt" (much less dirt, but I'd still like to keep it clean, too).Quote:
Originally Posted by LS1-450
Just curious, as I have thought about installing something like that. Looks like the Marvel setup is a great one to use. How much $ was it?
It's an AMPCO inverse oiler. It was $59.95 + $4.50 for the PCV line T connector. Do an AMPCO search or AMPCO lubricator search & you will find them. I too wanted a Marvel unit, but, found them to be obsolete & could only find very expensive used models. Have both a 1 qt. (on the Buick) & a 1 pint (on the LS1). Had to go w/ the 1 pint on the LS1 so that it would fit. If you can find a spot, the 1 quart is better 'cuz you'r filling it every 1,000+ miles instead of every 300 or 400 miles.
BTW, for those wondering, I am not a dealer & do not represent the interests of any inverse oiler manufacturer. Am just a guy whom benefits from its' use.
Could you post a picture? I just want to see where you mounted the unit. I agree the 1 quart unit is preferable and I'll hunt for a spot that will not interfere with my other add-on plans. Thanks.
Here's the AMPCO on the LS1 engine.
AMSOil here...the best in my opinion
Use AMSOil ATF as well as in my differentials
Hey man....do you utilize the preferred customer program?Quote:
Originally Posted by tankerpilot
I have Amsoil front to back on the GTO.....
I'm a dealer Sarge. Just got my Vette...so I need to swap everything in her out with AMSOil yet.
You going to run the 0-30 Series 2000?Quote:
Originally Posted by tankerpilot
I was thinking just 5W-30 in it....that is what I use in my Supercharged 02 Tahoe.
Do you think the 0-30 2000 would be better?
Short answer yes....Better flow and wear protection numbers....
mmm....interesting.....so would be better for both the Corvette and Tahoe then I guess? I've got like 4 gallons of 5W-30 left...maybe I can sell that off to a friend and get 0-30....
I use the 0-30 in the Dodge R/T and the GTO LS1...excellent results....Quote:
Originally Posted by tankerpilot
I also use the dual oil filters (remote) in both cars.....
i just tried some penzoil platinum. any feedback on that brand?
Yup I have been watching these oils from day one.....Pennzoil additive packs in the Virgin Oil Analysis looks like somebody slipped Mobil 1 in there...the Boron and Moly is slightly lower...however that is no big deal.....it is a API SM/GL-4 rated oil and that aint nothing to sneeze at......Used Oil Analysis reveal excellent wear results...even in a turbo motor....so all in all....a very nice oil....Pennzoil Platinum is on sale down here for $2.99 a quart....now that is a steal for a top grade oil.....so I have two cases of 10-30 waiting to go in the Dodge R/T....gotta give it a try with the VOA/UOA results and the price now dont we:)Quote:
Originally Posted by dotcom2000
The highest oil temp I have seen is 240 degrees. That was on a 100 deg day after a "high speed run" with two people on and AC on, 0-150+ MPH. (The car does 0-150 in about 18 seconds like that, but the oil temp rises about 15 degrees during those few seconds.Quote:
Originally Posted by GatorSS
I AM VERY INTERESTED in anything anyone knows about mixing grades of oils. This summer I ran 4 quarts of 0-40 and four of 15-55 Mobil 1, but the oil temp versus temp results I get are virtually the same as with 0-40. My son (who is a service manager at a Ford dealer, so he knows cars, but is not an expert on oil) said he thought maybe the thinner oil "lubircated the thicker oil" rather than mixing. Makes a bit of sense. But,
DOES ANYONE KNOW HOW OILS OF DIFFERENT VISCOSITY RATING ACT WHEN MIXED: IF I HAVE A 50/50 MIXTURE OF 0-40 AND 15-55, DO I REALLY GET SOMETHING CLOSE TO 7.5-47.5??
Hey Rhino..... I used to mix and used this tool to get the blended cSt@100c I was after..... http://www.baseoils.shellglobalsolut...ending_pop.asp
However I would be remiss if I failed to mention I quit mixing. Reason being....the oils today are formulated damn near to perfection....so why mix say a 10-40 with 15/50 to get a thicker 40 weight at op temps when you can just get a 40 weight with the same cSt or viscosity you are looking for in the first place....however....you are not hurting a damn thing by mixing.....so you can use the above calculator to mix the preferred viscosity......
thanks for the advice. I won't mix anymore, but I sure wish someone made a 0-50.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sarge
I hear ya man.....Take a look at Valvoline 20-50 Racing Oil.....or Amsoil 20-50...I mean hells bells a pour at -34 aint all to bad.....if its -35 my ass is in the fireplace...not in the GTO....:):naughtywaQuote:
Originally Posted by Rhino21149
http://www.valvoline.com/pages/produ...asp?Product=94
http://www.valvoline.com/pages/produ...asp?Product=95
https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/tro.aspx
So the owners manual says use 10W-30, unless its going to be colder than 60F, then 5W-30. I am about to change my oil with Mobil 10W-40 (I have 6qt sitting here, the "clean 5000" stuff), and I will be driving it in 0-60F temps this winter (but not on snow or ice).
Is this a bad idea? Should I bump down to 5W-30?
Now I only put maybe 6k miles on my car per year, which means a once-a-year oil change. Meaning, the next time I change my oil won't be until about the same time next year, so this oil would also be used through the summer (60-100F).
I can't find 0W-40 here. All I can find is 5-30, 10-30 and 10-40!
What do you guys recommend I stick with? This is an 01 with 73k miles.
Hey Husker....Forgive me if I point out the obvious on Mobil Clean 5000.....it is 100% Dino Oil.....Havoline at 1.25 a quart kicks the living shit out of it....my major problem with Mobil Clean 5000 is the level of sodium in it...yes ....salt...Once a year oil changes are scary....ever hear of condensation? With that few of miles you never get the oil temps up to burn it off and with that few of miles a year you will never burn off the condensation in your engine......So with that said...you need to seriously consider a synthetic and twice a year oil changes....I don't care if you never drive it...twice a year just to get the condensation out.......look at Amsoil 0-30 or Pennzoil Platinum 10-30...a really good oil right now is Phillips 66 10-30 Synthetic for a $1.00 at Dollar Tree or WalMart...excellent VOA's.....use any filter but a Fram and your good to go...yes even a SuperTech Filter is better than a a Fram....Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackHawk T/A
Think about starting your baby up and letting her idle/run for at least 30-45 minutes to get up to operating temps during the "off season".......do this at least once a month......as for the viscosity.......stay in the 0-30 or 10-30 range...stay away from 5-30 which is the thinnest oil you can get outside of 5-20..........I'll stand by for the Internet experts:)
I would look harder for a OW-40. Advanced Auto and Napa both carry it here in NC. And there are internet places you can order it (discount prices just about pay for the shipping cost).Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackHawk T/A
Another thing to consider is an oil cooler...cheap and easy install...less that $150.....this keeps oil temps down and allows you to run "thinner" viscosity oils....
Hey Sarge, it's great to have you around. You know your stuff. :yourock:
Thanks Sarge, I wasn't aware it was dino oil. I will take it back for sure. I guess it didn't click when I realized it was 1/3 the price. I think you're right about the Amsoil 0-30, i'll look around for it. I have a Purolator filter waiting so I hope that's good enough. Oil cooler is something I would like but it will have to wait until the next change, it needs a change now and there is a lack of funds for mods at the moment. The last guy had some Conoco 10-30 put in it about 3k miles ago so I need to get that out of there.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sarge
Well there is nothing wrong with Dino Oil now....seriously....just that the Mobil 5000 is overpriced for what it is......Amsoil you have to buy from their website or a local dealer......so....If I were you and all things considered....I think I would do one of two things for your ride man...And for the record Purolator is a great filter....good filtration and flow.....anyway...I would do one of two things....
Synthetic....
1. Go to WalMart or damn near any Auto Store and get the required amount of 10-30 Pennzoil Platinum. My second choice would be Castrol 0-30. Should be around $3.99- $4.99 a quart.
2. Dino .....Havoline 10-40 or Castrol GTX 10-40. Both excellent oils.....$1.50 a quart mebbe.
I wish more people were as "aware" of the oils as you are...ask questions...lots of em:) That is how we all learn....
Amsoil is available @ NAPA & Carquest in my area. Don't know if this means all chains have picked it up, but, it's a start.
Nah it means that particular store is an Amsoil dealer...Amsoil will never bypass their dealer network and go direct with a chain...if they do they are out of business...like Amway or Mary Kay:)Quote:
Originally Posted by LS1-450
Sarge, since I have noticed that you are quite knowledgeable about oils and have a great amount of experience, I'd like to get your opinion on some oil stuff. I take it that you are a big fan of Amsoil, right? I have never used any of their products (not yet, that is), but am considering it. Do you think it is the best oil available in general, and specifically for the LSX engines? Why?
Another oil opinion to ask: What is your opinion of Mobil 1 0w40, relative to the above, and relative to other oils?
Oil filter question: Like you, I stay away from Fram filters. I have been using K&N oil filters for a while. What filter do you consider the best, aside from the Amsoil set up (which I presume you prefer and for valid reasons, I'm sure)? Why? Also, what is your opinion of the K&N oil filters?
Thanks in advance. Your input is greatly appreciated.
Hey Gator.....I'll take a shot ...however I will preface it with this statement.Quote:
Originally Posted by GatorSS
There is no best....so much depends on your driving habits/oil change intervals/geographic/enviromental conditions etc.....also the oils to day are so superior to what we had 25-30 years ago that it becomes difficult to differentiate what advantages oil "a" has over oil "b" in the real world anymore.....oil "a" has .000001 bearing wear and oil "b" has .0000011 bearing wear...oil "a" cost $8.00 a quart and oil "b" cost $1.50 a quart...........what I am saying is the average Joe Shmoe driving around in his/her grocery getter is just fine with a SuperTech filter and TropArtic 10-30 pumping around...and changing the oil and filter every 5000 miles. But you ask some straightforward questions and I'll give it a shot. Yes I have studied oil till my eyeballs have fallen out....and yes I have many years experience with muscle cars and "hang out" with some top notch wrenches and engine builders......so here we go....I'll keep it specific to LSX motors if that's OK.....
CAFE/EPA has had a significant influence on todays manufacturers engine oil recommendations. No doubt about it. These fleet rules....ie....MPG/Pollution specific....GM will recommend the thinnest oil they can get their engineers to agree too....that is with GM lawyers/marketing/compliance people sitting on their heads saying here sign this geek! But....that doesn't mean your engine is getting maximum protection nor putting out maximum performance.....let me give you an example you can research on your own......
I have a 04 GTO...LS1....GM recommends 5-30 Dino.....but the exact same car ...with the exact same engine in Australia.....they recommend 20-50....WTF? Australia is no hotter than South Texas....same motor....EPA/CAFE is what drives that.....the LSX motors love a thicker oil....cSt@100c of between 11.0-14.0......is what your looking for in a viscosity for your LSX.
Now to get to your question specific. Do I think Amsoil is the best?
Mebbe...I think Amsoil is one of the top oils out there for our rides for sure. I use Amsoil 0-30 in my modified LS1. Great results.....however...I think Castrol 0-30 (the 05 stuff and the GC "green" stuff) is very close.....my top 5 synthetics for LSX specific motors would look like this....based on Used Oil Analysis/Virgin Oil Analysis and experience......
1. Amsoil
2. Castrol SynTec
3. Red Line
4. Mobil 1
5. Pennzoil Platinum
Top 5 Dino Oils
1. Valvoline
2. Castrol GTX
3. Pennzoil
4. Havoline
5. Chevron
Filters.....
1. Mobil 1
2. Amsoil
3. KN
4. NAPA Gold
5. Purolator
Mobil 1 0-40 is great.....use it knowing you are using some of the best base stock and additive packs out there.....I "hear" it thins after awhile.....that is why I sorta stay away from it...that and I can get Amsoil as cheap as Mobil 1 and Amsoil just kick the hell out of Mobil 1 in all the various stress test they do on oils......but the fact remains Mobil 1 0-40 is a great oil...just overpriced.
Filters I listed above....at the end of the day I believe there are only 3 manufacturers making all the filters in the world....KN is a great flowing/filtering filter......and I love the lil 1" nut on the bottom:)
Bottom line and in summary....use any of the above products...and yes you can see price doesn't really come into play...as you can get top of the line performance and protection with Dino Havoline 10-40 with a Purolator filter....just a fact...want the best....Amsoil with a Mobil 1 filter is gonna be tough...very tough to beat.....but high end cost or low end of any combination of the above oils/filters...your gonna be good to go.....for a long time:) Get your oil analyzed by Blackstone Labs and that will tell you what your oil change intervals should be and that also will tweak your viscosity choices to perfection....it cost 20 bucks and is well worth it......hope this helps some....
Thanks a bunch, Sarge. I understand about how driving habits/oil change intervals/geographic/enviromental conditions etc factor into the oil decision, but aside from that, I wanted an opinion from someone more experienced than I am from my years of "tinkering" (as some might call it) since I was probably 10 years old (small outboard motors at that time). Your educated opinion is very informative and helpful, not only to me, but for all who will take the time to read your post. I hope the much younger ones on this site realize how valuable a resource you are.
I asked for your opinion on Mobil 1 0w40 and K&N oil filters since I have been using them on my LSX vehicles since their first oil changes (all bought new--haven't bought a used vehicle in 18 years). I chose Mobil 1 0w40 for the reasons you mentioned, but if I could get Amsoil for the same price, you bet I would buy the Amsoil.:hyper: So, how do you get it at that price? Are you a dealer?
Also, do you use the Amsoil bypass filter system? Do you use an oil cooler?
Thanks again.
Just to throw this out there...Patman said the Mobil 1 filter isn't that great (over on LS2). What he said was the K&N was a lot better. Now I don't go believing everything everyone says without some proof but hes been a known oil freak for years.
What do you say to that?
Thanks for your kind words .....I appreciate it.....
I am a prefered customer of Amsoil.....then you get it for the dealer price....
big discount.....yes I have a Perma Cool Oil Cooler....temps rarely see above 180-190 even in summer traffic.....I also have the Perma Cool Remote Dual filter setup and run two large filters.....so I am running close to 8 quarts in the sump.....As for the above Patman comment...yeah he is a really good guy.....The oil filter debates usually boil down to restriction vs. flow.....the more filtering you get the higher the restriction and the less flow....the more flow the less filtering....you get the picture....different driving habits and setups of course result in different filter choices......Patman's vette is stock (pretty sure)...my GTO isnt...so of course we use different setups/filters etc. He utilizes a single filter I run duals as mentioned above......
How difficult is installing the Perma Cool Oil Cooler and Remote Dual filter setup? As I take my LSX's further away from stock, that kind of setup and the increased oil capacity becomes more necessary and beneficial, thus desirable (obviously). For now, but not for long, the stock oil setup is all I have upon which to rely. So, as I approach installing such a setup, naturally I want to know the easiest way to install it.
What did it take to become a preferred customer of Amsoil? Large quantity purchase?
And, yes, I agree with Sarge that Patman is a good guy, as I've read his writings on oil for several years. But I like to get opinions on things from more than one knowledgeable source.
Hey Gator.....I remember the prefered customer being about $20 a year...for that you get 20% off everything plus some periodic discounts on stuff...hell I saved my 20 bucks back prety quick..... here is the link, https://www.amsoil.com/AmsoilLogin/PreferredApp.aspx
The dual oil filters and oil cooler make a huge difference no doubt.....I didnt see what kind of car you have but if I can get it on the 04 GTO (no room at all) anybody can install them.....I used the steel mesh hoses and it really is a very clean install..... I bought the cooler and remore dual filters from JEGS...
here is the link...
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...14&prmenbr=361
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...91&prmenbr=361
Coule of pics...first one is the oil cooler....
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...oolerSmall.jpg
this one is the backside of the dual filter brackets.....
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...raketSmall.jpg
Just another thought on this....Patman is running a stock LS1...so he is using that lil bitty filter....I run the Perma Cool Dual Filter setup...with two LARGE (FL1A type) filters......just food for thought...Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackHawk T/A
Thanks for the links. Oh, forgot to mention the cars and I guess I could at least put the first of my LSX vehicles in my user profile section (which I'll do after this post). The one on which I'm wanting to upgrade the oil setup is my 2000 Camaro SS. The newer F-bodies will get it later.
How long did the install take for the Perma Cool Oil Cooler and Remote Dual filter setup?
Mebbe three four hours tops.....about a 12 pack:)Quote:
Originally Posted by GatorSS
I mounted the oil cooler and filters first....oil cooler in front of the radiator....using the 4 nylon doohickeys Perma Cool will supply you.....fairly easy....little cussing involved as Pontiac left enough room to spit:) The oil filters I made a little bracket as you can see and mounted them on the engine side of the wheel well.....from there the sandwhich adapter screw right on...
then it is just a matter of running the hoses and connecting it all up.....be sure you get the in/out right:) On the oil cooler you do not need the kit...just the cooler.....NAPA sells the steel mesh hoses.....I remember them as 1/2"
Easy and cheap and big difference in your oil temps for sure....
On second thought.....you do need this.... http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...94&prmenbr=361
It will go out the adapter to the filters...then to the cooler and back to the adaptor.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sarge
Any problems with the oil pump while running two filters? Shouldn't the type of oil pump used in a specific car be evaluated to ensure that it can handle the restriction on the outlet or inlet side of the pump depending on where the dual filters are mounted? Any oil pump failures?
Isn't the greatest engine wear experienced @ start up before oil pressure has been established which is why a pre-oiler can be considered a more effective engine wear deterent than oil filtration? Pre-oilers can also prevent the loss of engine lubrication caused by oil pump cavitation while driving aggressively w/ a baffleless oil pan.
The oil pressure is fine...I watch that closely...yes I agree....dry start ups is where the wear takes place.....That is why I stick with the 0-30 synthetics and let her warm up good before I even put it in gear....I am at 500RWHP and 600 lbs of torque right now and have had absolutely zero oil pressure/or temp issues at all.....Quote:
Originally Posted by LS1-450
Since that GM sandwich adpater mounts between the oil filter and the filter landing and still requires use of the stock oil filter, you use three oil filters (the two large remote ones and the stock one)? Or is that link for a different adapter than the one you use and you actually do not still use the stock filter? I don't really like the sandwich adapters because they cause the stock filter to sit even lower, and since I use the longer filter this could really cause a problem with ground clearance. I don't want it to get hit.:cry:Quote:
Originally Posted by Sarge
Also, what is your opinion of the Amsoil bypass system vs. the Perma Cool remote filter system?