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I can get from a friend of mine for $400 a 10 bolt.
It has moser axles, 4.10 motive gears, and a auburn differential.
It is still pretty strong with no problems. I have a TA girdle on my current stock one I could put on it as well if I purchase it.
For $400 is it worth getting? What else could I do to beef it up?
Its about as beefed up as its gonna get. $400 is a reasonable price.
At that point, is there anything that can be done to take off any more stress on the rear end?
I been looking into torque arms that mount to the chasis and not the transmission. Does that help the rear any?
Also I was thinking that the reason why the 10 bolt snap is because of the "flex" do you think by welding on some bars from the axle to the pumpkin help prevent any flex?
the chassis mount T/A help from transmission damage not rear end as much...however it is my understanding that aftermarket t/a helps a little
the gears alone cost 400 and then more. the only bad thing about the 10 bolt is it cannot take very much stress. If your car is stock for the most part and you don't through some super sticky slicks you will be good. but it will make you very happy it will trough your head back heard.
Well the the setup I am going for which should be done I hope before next summer is a forged 383 LT1 on nitto 555R drag slicks and a 150 shot.
I am going to have the nitrous locked out of first gear so it only sprays from 2nd and so fourth.
So I guess would a fully built 10 bolt on radials be able to handle roughly 450RWHP/TQ in a 6 speed launching no more then 3K?
what stall ?Quote:
Originally Posted by JwMonE99
you might get lucky..but chances are no
i forgot..did you eliminate the C clips ?
Quote:
Originally Posted by JwMonE99
blah, lol it wont stand a chance, dont cut corners, save the 400 and put it to either a 12 bolt or 9" that way you wont waist cash when that 10 bolt snaps.
Quote:
Originally Posted by shady milkman
Its a 6 speed so no stal..
No I still have C clips I think.
So what exactly brakes when the 10 bolts snap?
on my 10 bolt, the bolts that mount the ring gear to the carrier came loose and tore the shit out of the carrier, slightly bent pinion, and ripped open the diff. cover.
I would do like zboner said, and save the money for a 12 bolt. I had my rear end rebuilt and gears changed out for 3:73's.. but now I wish I would have just swapped it for a 9" or 12 bolt.
usually done with high horsepower drags is weld the axle housing to the diff housing. prevents the axles housing from twisting on high rpm take offs.
i'm saving money for the moser 9" its about 2500. I like the 9" its stronger and easyer to swap out the gears and faster. You can get used to doing it and do it in your garge with simple tools. it takes about a hour to do.
Sometimes the axle shafts snap, ring and pinion gear teeth shear off, and spider gears explode.Quote:
Originally Posted by JwMonE99
What are Spider gears?
gears inside the carrier I believe
it is really hard to explain if you don't know how a rear end is built you can youtube it and find it.
save your money and get a 12 or 9' i have broken mines 5 times before a nd after motor up grade if not get ready to watch your 10 bolt :suicide:
What broke 5 times?
i have broke ring and pinon , one or the other , when you add mods ,you add hp and then you have to keep it to the ground 1o bolts seems fine but then :boxing: it die , if you gain no hp you got no problems with it
torque i think is what you want to say. not hp..
I broke mine with only minor bolt on suspension and some nitto's . Shafts twisted and took most everything else out. Fortunatly you can find Older firebirds at the junkyard. For $100 I got anoth 10 bolt that lasted me until i could save up for a 9"
I was planning to do exactly what those guys are talking about