The patient is ready

My rebuild is about to begin. Yesterday the fluids came out, electrical connections un-done...then off to AutoZone for a fuel line tool I thought I had:suicide:

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/l...d/IMG_2037.jpg

I'll be dropping the whole driveline all the way back to the rear. I'm changing all of the control arms arms out. Not a fan of the UMI units I have in there now. The tranny is going to Tick shift, I'm installing coil overs, keeping the Moser rear, and adding a new K-member under the 383 stroker I'm building.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/l...d/IMG_2038.jpg
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/l...d/IMG_2039.jpg

nice. keep up the updates and good luck

i envy the fact that you have a lift in your garage. i dont even have a garage lol

Going for quite a personality change! Please post pics of the process -- I always like to see these projects through the different phases.

What is wrong with your UMI stuff? I have been quite pleased with everything purchased for our car and they have been great to deal with.

i'm curious too your thoughts on the suspension swap?? i mean, not many people upgrade then replace with upgrades?

There will be pics-o-plenty, don't worry. This thread will NOT be dial-up friendly:D It is a definate luxery to have the lift. It's only a Max Jax portable, so I can lift the car 4 feet. Plenty to lift the body of the sub. It wasn't bad at $2100 delivered.

As for the suspension, They were great arms when I first installed them. The problem is, the nylon "runner" that are inside the metal rod ends wear out rather quick. So now every time I hit the slightest road imperfection, I get a clicking sound for each of the 4 mounting points. It's so loud I can here it over my radio and LM2 exhaust. Plus the amount of shock transferred through the metal ends is a bit much after a long drive. I would recommend these units for heavily auto crossed cars, though. Definately strong arms. Bolted up with no issues at all.

Nice.... subscribed

Just noticed the lift posts. Whats the ceiling height in your garage? You have to be at least 10' by the header over your entrance door. I was able to go with a 2-post Mohawk lift with 11' 3" of ceiling clearance. Just have to watch when I lift my truck as the cap would hit if I ran it all the way up.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by pajeff02

Just noticed the lift posts. Whats the ceiling height in your garage? You have to be at least 10' by the header over your entrance door. I was able to go with a 2-post Mohawk lift with 11' 3" of ceiling clearance. Just have to watch when I lift my truck as the cap would hit if I ran it all the way up.

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Yes, my ceilings are 10'. The door itself is actually 8 feet so I can fit my lifted Jeep in. The lift towers on mine only stand 5 feet tall, so it will fit in any garage. The only requirement is 4 inches of concrete to drill into. Hell, the thing even runs on 15 amp 110v.

in for updates

subscribed sounds like an interesting build, cant wait to see the after product.

Good Luck! Looking forward to seeing your progress.

When I build a house, it will have 20' ceiling in the garage. and a 12' door. :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by FORD RECOVERY EXPERT

When I build a house, it will have 20' ceiling in the garage. and a 12' door. :D

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Just over 12' is more than adequate. At 11' 3" I have not had any issues and we were able to go with a heated floor to get us through the winter months.

I'm in also. Good luck with the build.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by pajeff02

Just over 12' is more than adequate. At 11' 3" I have not had any issues and we were able to go with a heated floor to get us through the winter months.

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Heated floor? Now that's nice!

Keep the PICs coming.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MrKid

Heated floor? Now that's nice!

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I wasn't real keen on a big gas heater hanging in the corner of the garage running like a jet engine every 10-15 minutes. I think we have 1,500 feet of tubing in the floor and it works great.

Subscribed. Can't wait to see the progress. Are you gonna get rid of the stock exhaust and go with Long tubes?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by pajeff02

I wasn't real keen on a big gas heater hanging in the corner of the garage running like a jet engine every 10-15 minutes. I think we have 1,500 feet of tubing in the floor and it works great.

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Yeah, and flames and fumes = BAD!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BIG GUNS

Subscribed. Can't wait to see the progress. Are you gonna get rid of the stock exhaust and go with Long tubes?

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I'm going with long tubes, but I'll keep the LM cat back. I may changed the resonator because it will be a bit too loud with the headers.

thats one serious upgrade....good luck with the K-member....its a bit tricky to get out

looks like a cool build man, good luck

For PA Jeff and Third SHift, here is a close-up of the UMI control arm mounts. All four on each side look this way. I could get new ends for $30 a piece, but I'll just be back to this in few years.
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/l...d/IMG_2052.jpg

Wow. That is pretty rusted up. Any idea how long they have been on the car?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by pajeff02

Wow. That is pretty rusted up. Any idea how long they have been on the car?

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I put them on about 3 years ago. I live in CT and don't drive in the snow obviously, but the salt hangs on the roads for months after winter. I imagine this has something to do with it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MrKid

I put them on about 3 years ago. I live in CT and don't drive in the snow obviously, but the salt hangs on the roads for months after winter. I imagine this has something to do with it.

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Wow, that must suck. Too bad they can't come up with a better solution than salt. I feel for y'all up there. Though last winter when we did have a little snow down here, the city guys dropped a brick looking thing of salt in my cove by MY driveway...had to scrap it up myself LOL!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MrKid

I put them on about 3 years ago. I live in CT and don't drive in the snow obviously, but the salt hangs on the roads for months after winter. I imagine this has something to do with it.

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Fortunately, our state uses road cinders in lieu of salt. Over the line in NY, where my wife works, they salt the shit out of the roads and you can see the difference on her car vs. my truck. Salt -- FTL.

Subscribed

Geez. All this attention, I better actually get this thing done! Got my fuel lines off today. They were a royal pita! The first tool I bought was a generic 3/8 inch line. Apparently, generic means Ford. Back to the Zone for $3.17 plastic tool that did the trick. Note to all...the underside of the cowl is razor sharp!
Tommorrow, I'm going to start the slow raising of the body. This way I'll find all the ground straps that I missed...

Sooo, whatcha going to do with the UMI units???

I live in the deep south (any further south and I'll be in the Gulf) and we have no salt issues here.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SMWS6TA

Sooo, whatcha going to do with the UMI units???

I live in the deep south (any further south and I'll be in the Gulf) and we have no salt issues here.

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Weeeeeelllllll, it just so happens they'll be getting wire brushed, greased up, and sold to a lucky buyer. One of the ends will need to be replaced. Last time I checked it was $25+ shipping from UMI. Send me a PM if you are interested.

i suppose im hopping on the subscribed train also

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MrKid

I'm going with long tubes, but I'll keep the LM cat back. I may changed the resonator because it will be a bit too loud with the headers.

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ya gonna get some new tips?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MrKid

It is a definate luxery to have the lift. It's only a Max Jax portable, so I can lift the car 4 feet. Plenty to lift the body of the sub. It wasn't bad at $2100 delivered.

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$2100 delivered is nice. If you had to do it over again would you get the same lift set up that you now have or would you have bought something else? Pro's and Con's to your Max Jax?..I'm in the camp not even having a garage but when I have one built it will have some sort of lift just not sure what to get.

But I need to get started with a garage as of last week I had 5 personal vehicles with 4 on the road and then in just the last week I bought not one but two late model, low mileage Crown Vics P71's.....7 cars now and no gargage....thank heaven I have a good size private back yard...and these cars are all just driven by me...I'm a family of one ( ME ) with a girlfriend who lives down in Fla.

Cool thread you have here..Best of luck with everything and thanks for sharing!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sailor

$2100 delivered is nice. If you had to do it over again would you get the same lift set up that you now have or would you have bought something else? Pro's and Con's to your Max Jax?..I'm in the camp not even having a garage but when I have one built it will have some sort of lift just not sure what to get.

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I'll throw in my .02 as I did a lot of pondering before purchasing our lift. When I built the garage, I layed out the tubing for my floor heat to accomodate an Eagle lift. My one requirement was that it be an American Made lift -- just how I am. Unfortunately, in the interim, Eagle went "offshore" with their manufacturing and I really had no interest at that point. There are very few USA made lifts out there. I ended up going with an asymmetrical Mohawk lift as the overhead was easily adjustable to accomodate my lower ceiling height.

In your case, you will need to decide between a 4-post and a 2-post. If you do go with a 2-post, the asymmetrical is the one to have as it is much more user friendly when it comes to parking cars between the posts and opening the doors. I would probably avoid a 2-post lift that utilizes the floor plate between the columns. That would become annoying very quickly. You also have to plan for the tools to use your lift, including an undercar oil drain, stands, and a transmission jack to get heavier components in and out of the vehicle once it is in the air.

I have friends with Rotary and Bend Pak lifts and they are nice. The construction is no where near as heavy as the Mohawk though. I did look at Superlifts and a host of others in my search. One thing is for sure, once you get a lift you will be spoiled rotten by it and you will suddenly have friends that you never did before.

Good info..Thanks!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by needls1again

ya gonna get some new tips?

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Yes I am! Mine are on the side of I-95...somewhere...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sailor

$2100 delivered is nice. If you had to do it over again would you get the same lift set up that you now have or would you have bought something else? Pro's and Con's to your Max Jax?..I'm in the camp not even having a garage but when I have one built it will have some sort of lift just not sure what to get.

But I need to get started with a garage as of last week I had 5 personal vehicles with 4 on the road and then in just the last week I bought not one but two late model, low mileage Crown Vics P71's.....7 cars now and no gargage....thank heaven I have a good size private back yard...and these cars are all just driven by me...I'm a family of one ( ME ) with a girlfriend who lives down in Fla.

Cool thread you have here..Best of luck with everything and thanks for sharing!

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Definately good advice from Pa Jeff. Always plan ahead. I went with a 10 foot ceiling for the purpose of having not only "lifting area", but also a ton of dead wall space for material storage (wood, and such that you don't use daily).
So now I had a few choices in lifts. 2 post, 4 post, mid lift. I post I ruled out right away. It takes up too much space, and it doesn't give unlimited access to tires and brakes. The mid lift was good, but most utliize the center plate Jeff mentioned, and it lifts with the platforms. This is no good, as you need the center open if you plan on dropping the engine/sub frame. So 2 post was the way to got. Now, the issue was usable space left in the garage. With a 2 post sytem, you constantly are walking around the post to move about the garage. At least with the configuration I have. This is why I settled with the Max Jax. The unit is comparably priced with other quality 2 post lifts. It runs on 115 volt. It will lift the car over 4 feet, with no issues (Even a 5500 lb Jeep). And when you are done with it, you un bolt the floor anchors and roll it away.
The construction of the Max Jax is very simple, yet very strong. When I lifted the Jeep I got less than 1/2 of flex in the free standing (anchored) tower. The assembly took me about 5 hours. I had some snags, but I called the company and they were fantastic!. I've now had the car up and down a couple dozen times, and no issues at all. I've had to bleed the system a few times to work it through, but this is simply done with a zerks fitting on top of the rams. Crack it open, wait till the air rush turns to fluid, close it. That simple. Best part is, it lifts it just to the height that a mechanics chair is perfect for. Just roll around under the car and save your back. It also will lift high enough for oil drian towers, and transmission jacks to fit under with no problem. I would recommend this unit to anyone who has a small to medium, multi-purpose garage. Hope this helps. If you need anymore info, I have a bunch of pics of the lift install.

im curious ..how do you know the new units wont do the same ?

i am curious on how often you greased the ends etc, and how often did/do you wash the under-body of the car?

have you talked to ryan at umi about this ?

i have had my umi LCAs on my car DD'd all year in michigan..and they look nothing like that..been through two years.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by shady milkman

im curious ..how do you know the new units wont do the same ?

i am curious on how often you greased the ends etc, and how often did/do you wash the under-body of the car?

have you talked to ryan at umi about this ?

i have had my umi LCAs on my car DD'd all year in michigan..and they look nothing like that..been through two years.

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I don't was the bottom of my car at all. It's too low to go through the car wash, and I can barely get my arm under it with the hose. I think the problem is more the lack of drive time. The car sits a lot. I put about 7000 miles on it over the last 5 years, and 5000 of them were the first year. Sometimes it's worse for a car to sit, rather than go through the dirt and rain cycle.
As for the new ones, I'm going to go with urethane ends instead of metal. I realize the lower rear will still be metal, so I'll keep it coted with a silicone spray. I did call UMI a while back. Not sure who I talked to, but they wouldn't help me out. This was after the inner seal went, and well before the rust got bad. They only offered to sell me new ends.

Subscribing as well.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MrKid

I don't was the bottom of my car at all. It's too low to go through the car wash, and I can barely get my arm under it with the hose. I think the problem is more the lack of drive time. The car sits a lot. I put about 7000 miles on it over the last 5 years, and 5000 of them were the first year. Sometimes it's worse for a car to sit, rather than go through the dirt and rain cycle.
As for the new ones, I'm going to go with urethane ends instead of metal. I realize the lower rear will still be metal, so I'll keep it coted with a silicone spray. I did call UMI a while back. Not sure who I talked to, but they wouldn't help me out. This was after the inner seal went, and well before the rust got bad. They only offered to sell me new ends.

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ok .

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MrKid

Definately good advice from Pa Jeff. Always plan ahead. I went with a 10 foot ceiling for the purpose of having not only "lifting area", but also a ton of dead wall space for material storage (wood, and such that you don't use daily).
So now I had a few choices in lifts. 2 post, 4 post, mid lift. I post I ruled out right away. It takes up too much space, and it doesn't give unlimited access to tires and brakes. The mid lift was good, but most utliize the center plate Jeff mentioned, and it lifts with the platforms. This is no good, as you need the center open if you plan on dropping the engine/sub frame. So 2 post was the way to got. Now, the issue was usable space left in the garage. With a 2 post sytem, you constantly are walking around the post to move about the garage. At least with the configuration I have. This is why I settled with the Max Jax. The unit is comparably priced with other quality 2 post lifts. It runs on 115 volt. It will lift the car over 4 feet, with no issues (Even a 5500 lb Jeep). And when you are done with it, you un bolt the floor anchors and roll it away.
The construction of the Max Jax is very simple, yet very strong. When I lifted the Jeep I got less than 1/2 of flex in the free standing (anchored) tower. The assembly took me about 5 hours. I had some snags, but I called the company and they were fantastic!. I've now had the car up and down a couple dozen times, and no issues at all. I've had to bleed the system a few times to work it through, but this is simply done with a zerks fitting on top of the rams. Crack it open, wait till the air rush turns to fluid, close it. That simple. Best part is, it lifts it just to the height that a mechanics chair is perfect for. Just roll around under the car and save your back. It also will lift high enough for oil drian towers, and transmission jacks to fit under with no problem. I would recommend this unit to anyone who has a small to medium, multi-purpose garage. Hope this helps. If you need anymore info, I have a bunch of pics of the lift install.

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Yes, extremely helpful..Thanks and it would be great to see a couple of pics of the lift install if you feel like putting some up.

Thanks again.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sailor

Yes, extremely helpful..Thanks and it would be great to see a couple of pics of the lift install if you feel like putting some up.

Thanks again.

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Will do. I'm at work now, so I can't access photobucket. I'll throw them up tonight or in the morning.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by shady milkman

have you talked to ryan at umi about this ?

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Too funny -- Ryan is a great guy to deal with. I have talked to him quite a bit at the last three Carlisle shows I attended. Have you ever seen his car? It has all the goodies.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by pajeff02

Too funny -- Ryan is a great guy to deal with. I have talked to him quite a bit at the last three Carlisle shows I attended. Have you ever seen his car? It has all the goodies.

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Is he on here? I'm the new guy, remember. I'm still trying to figure people out. :lol:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MrKid

Is he on here? I'm the new guy, remember. I'm still trying to figure people out. :lol:

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UMI does not post a lot as they sell their wares through some of the site sponsors. I would have to look to find him as it has probably been a few months. I have all UMI stuff for our car and so far have been quite pleased with the quality and fit of their pieces.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by pajeff02

UMI does not post a lot as they sell their wares through some of the site sponsors. I would have to look to find him as it has probably been a few months. I have all UMI stuff for our car and so far have been quite pleased with the quality and fit of their pieces.

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No big deal. I'm actually still happy with UMI overall. I'm going to replace my adj. units with UMI non-adj. units.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MrKid

No big deal. I'm actually still happy with UMI overall. I'm going to replace my adj. units with UMI non-adj. units.

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I went with the non-adjustable LCA's and panhard bar as our car has the stock rear (for now) and will not see much track time.

im in for the info, nice build

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sailor

Yes, extremely helpful..Thanks and it would be great to see a couple of pics of the lift install if you feel like putting some up.

Thanks again.

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I posted it under tools:

http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread...11#post2102911

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MrKid

Geez. Apparently, generic means Ford.

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:haha: Good luck tomorrow

Quote:

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Originally Posted by pajeff02

Too funny -- Ryan is a great guy to deal with. I have talked to him quite a bit at the last three Carlisle shows I attended. Have you ever seen his car? It has all the goodies.

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no..but is it red ?? i can see his car being the car in all the pics

Quote:

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Originally Posted by shady milkman

no..but is it red ?? i can see his car being the car in all the pics

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Red vert.

Have fun with your build and the end results. Just keep with the pictures

Well everything is out. I love these pics. It's not often you get see everthing bolted up but out of the car. Should I start a new thread for the rebuild, or just go for epic on this one?

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/l...d/IMG_2059.jpg
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/l...d/IMG_2058.jpg
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/l...d/IMG_2054.jpg
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/l...d/IMG_2053.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MrKid

Well everything is out. I love these pics. It's not often you get see everthing bolted up but out of the car. Should I start a new thread for the rebuild, or just go for epic on this one?

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:eek: Amaaaaaaaaaaaaaazing!! More pics please!

And i say.. Go for epic on this one!!

That looks pretty amazing. I've never seen pics of the entire powertrain and driveline separated out of an F-body before. Keep the pics coming.

So now she's apart, I have some real issues to deal with before I even start with drivetrain. I knew my rear shocks were bad, but that in combination with a lowered vehicle and aftermarket torque arm caused some havoc, This is a pic of the rear of the driveshaft tunnel. The outside edge of the torque arm rear mount actually punched through the floor. You can actually see carpet padding coming through.


http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/l...d/IMG_2060.jpg


I'll have to remove the rear carpet, and weld this up when I weld in my SBC's. They were originally bolt in's, but I can see slight movement around the bolt heads. After I weld everything up, I will drop the brake and fuel lines and undercoat the car front to back. You normally do this AFTER paint, but the car won't be this accessible then.
Also, when picking a cradle to lay your sub frame on, make sure it is rated for at least 600lbs. Mine was not, so the whole assembly is now sitting on jackstands.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/l...d/IMG_2063.jpg

This IS epic!!

yea man im diggin the play by play pics....:texas:

Wow! Sounds like my luck...great photos though, good luck with it !

Thanks for all the support! Pics may be slow for a few days. Trying to clean the garage up from the tear down carnage, before I go any further:giveup:

good luck with the build.

The Moser 12 bolt has been cleaned up, inspected, and it's good to go for another lifetime or so.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/l...d/IMG_2073.jpg

Not good news up front, though. I found this crack as I was unbolting the tranny form the bell housing. Looks like some gorilla put it back in with an impact after a clutch job. Anyone got a spare? :monkey:

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/l...d/IMG_2071.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MrKid

Well everything is out. I love these pics. It's not often you get see everthing bolted up but out of the car. Should I start a new thread for the rebuild, or just go for epic on this one?

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/l...d/IMG_2059.jpg

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sweet hovercraft!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by justinmc978

sweet hovercraft!

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I wish it rode that smooth:snowboard:

Good luck on the build, subscribed :D

Good luck on the build also! I will be checking in often :yup:

Damn I love looking at these threads makes want to hurry my ass up and get home from this sand box and start building my car haha. Keep up the good work I am still deciding on the longtubes and exhaust I wanna go with lol.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bluehawk2000

Damn I love looking at these threads makes want to hurry my ass up and get home from this sand box and start building my car haha. Keep up the good work I am still deciding on the longtubes and exhaust I wanna go with lol.

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I'm going to go with OBX. It seems like people have had good luck with them. It should sound pretty crazy with the LM.:eek2:

So i stopped spinning wrench's for a bit. I'm on the parts gathering part of the build for now. I just ordered my Koni 4/4's from Sam. I decided against coil overs, after reading some reviews. I contacted Sam and he guided me through the complexity of suspension. Would have drove myself nuts trying to figure it all out myself with the number of choices on the market.
Once I get the Koni's, I'll put the rear end back together and get it in the car. Then I'll seperate the motor from the stock K-member and put that back in the car. Then I'll be able to roll the chassis out of the garage to free up some space to build the motor and the new front k-member and suspension.

sweet man it sounds like its coming along very well, keep up the hardwork man love to see projects like this. Cant wait to do another deployment so I can afford being able to do something like this.

i want to see this finished.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 1fastcamarosss11

i want to see this finished.

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yeah, me too...haha.

Got my new Koni's the other day. Now I just have to find some directions that make sense. The ones they come with are pretty vague.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/l...d/IMG_2083.jpg

Nice build man...someday I might work up the guts to work on my baby like that!

I tell ya...I lost a lot of sleep before the first bolts came out. Now I'm finally enjoying it a bit.
For an update, I have the rear end back in the car with the new Koni's. I'll have to cut a "trap door" in the rear interior panels for the adjustment screws. Anyone have some advice on how to do this so it isn't obvious?

subscribed....awesome garage! i cant wait to get a lift. Jackstands and laying on your back gets old really fast.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by iroc1185

subscribed....awesome garage! i cant wait to get a lift. Jackstands and laying on your back gets old really fast.

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I hear ya. All the mods I've done to this point were done in the driveway. And it alwasy seems to be 10 degrees, or 110.

Nice work! I see you've got the blacked out rims, you have any pics of the whole car before you began?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mboodrx

Nice work! I see you've got the blacked out rims, you have any pics of the whole car before you began?

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My old Cardomian page is here:

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2355847

I don't have any pics of the car before I swapped the rims and springs. I'll have to try and dig some up. When I bought the car 4 years ago it was bone stock, with about 30K on it.

I wish I had a garage like that. Hell...I just wish I had a garage!!!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mieux97

I wish I had a garage like that. Hell...I just wish I had a garage!!!

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It's not as great as it looks. Local code forced me to lose about 4 feet off the right side. That's where my bench was supposed to go. Now, I have to step ove the line to the right lift tower every time I walk by. This is great when you're carrying heavy engine parts. Once I get the subframe minus the motor back in the car, I can put it on the ground and remove the right lift tower.

Bump any updates?

check out tech for the shock install directions or go to ls1howto dot com.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MrKid

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Are you gonna think about buying an SFI Bellhousing?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by blkSS98

Are you gonna think about buying an SFI Bellhousing?

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I did consider it, but that wasn't in the budget. i managed to pick up a stock bellhousing on Ebay for $100 shipped.

Temple: I know how to change the shocks, that isn't a problem. I'm actually looking for ideas on how to make acces panels in my interiortrim to get to the adjusment on the rear Koni's. I want it to have a "shwo quality" look.

As for updates, I have the engine off the subframe and I'm starting to break it down. Everything looks really good so far, but I found some evidence of work being done to it. Not good for an engine that had less than 38k on it when I bought it. The first thing I noticed, were the gaskets between the fuel rail and injectors. 3 injectors had the gasket bunched up in the plug instead of around the perimeter. I also found a number of brackets not bolted to anything. My guess is smome major work was done, without pulling the engine. I've been meaning to get some more pictures, but I'm afraid to bring my new SLR camera into the garage. Stay Tuned!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MrKid

I tell ya...I lost a lot of sleep before the first bolts came out. Now I'm finally enjoying it a bit.
For an update, I have the rear end back in the car with the new Koni's. I'll have to cut a "trap door" in the rear interior panels for the adjustment screws. Anyone have some advice on how to do this so it isn't obvious?

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The carpet should have already a pre cut access for rear konis.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bene

The carpet should have already a pre cut access for rear konis.

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:loser:Didn't even notice. i'll have to check this out tomorrow. Was that in all F-bodies, or just 1LE's?

subscribed

:tumbleweed:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by pajeff02

Too funny -- Ryan is a great guy to deal with. I have talked to him quite a bit at the last three Carlisle shows I attended. Have you ever seen his car? It has all the goodies.

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Ryan at UMI is a crybaby. I had a bad experience with one of their products (which Ryan assures me is my faulght:thumbdn:) and when I chime in a thread on LS1tech and give my .02 he comes in and cries about it. I can't stand the way UMI and a few other vendors on that board charge into threads like feeding sharks.

Lets get this back on topic guys.

Wow! I go on vacation, and it gets ugly in here.:screwy:

I'm sorry for the lack of updates, but with my vacation and the holidays, I've been a little busy. My goal is to take my time, and get the car back on the road by March. The engine is still partially dissasembled. After finding the problem with the PS pump, I got a bit side tracked. I'll do my best to keep the updates coming...

Awesome work! Keep up the updates :)

Hoping to see updates soon Mr kid, my build has been put on hold for a bit but im hoping to be back at it by the end of the month

+1 one here....starving for updates