The build continues. Back to work little by little. But getting there..........Below is my TT kit for you veiwing pleasure.lol................
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The build continues. Back to work little by little. But getting there..........Below is my TT kit for you veiwing pleasure.lol................
Here is a pic of the kit.
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/t...tro1/TTkit.jpg
Okay update finally! Here are some pics of my motor and what I got done. This weekend hope to get some more done on it.:usa:
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/t...ro1/Image3.jpg
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/t...1/Image2-1.jpg
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/t...ro1/Image1.jpg
Cant wait to see how she does. Would be great to see the look a someones face when their LS1 gets blown away by a v-6........... :yup:
My target fwhp is 325-375.. Not too crazy but hopefully pretty quick!:usa:Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr.Crash
well that will put the hurting on quite a few LS1 f-bodys out there :lol:Quote:
Originally Posted by Smittro
LOL, as long as their not modded. haha which hard to find. But hell look out ricers! Bahahaha :usa: Update spent some of yesterday and some of today looking for that Muncie Getrag 284.. Still no go gerrrrr..Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr.Crash
Here's the low down on my TT kit....
2 X T3/T4 TURBO CHARGERS .50 A/R COMPRESSOR - .63 A/R TURBINE - 57 COMPRESSOR WHEEL TRIM.
Mirage Power Balanced and blue printed turbos.
2X WASTE GATE SET AT 7-8 PSI
1X RS TYPE BLOW OFF VALVE.
2 X BOOST CONTROLLERS.
2 X OIL FEED LINE KIT- OIL RESTRICTOR.
TURBO PIPING / INTERCOOLER PIPING KIT - 6061 ALUMINUM -2.5 INCH DIAMETER PIPING KIT.
HIGH FLOW INTERCOOLER - SIZE : 28" X 8" X 2.5" WITH 2.5' INCH INLET/OUTLET.:usa:
ok so your gonna go ahead and TT it now? i hope so! thats badass. but surely with that TT you can tune it to 400FWHP right? just bcuz its so much more fun to throw that number out there even though its only 25 more poniesQuote:
Originally Posted by Smittro
btw that kit looks great!
Well I wont be turning the boost up extreamly high. I'd like the car to stay reliable as I can. If I even hit the 325 fwhp number I'm okay with that. This will be my personal DD.Quote:
Originally Posted by adrenalinejunkie
With limited after market performance parts. There will need to be a sht ton of one off stuff needed to fab up @ 400+ fwhp, just to keep her from self destructing. I'm trying to stay as resonable as I can. I already have to rethink almost the entire engine bay, because of very limited space. Battery needs relocated, A/C needed removed, windsheild washer rez needs moved. Front facia needs removed, then space and a bracket need fabbed for the Inter cooler to be just behind my front divider and so on. Braceing and on and on. For 400+ fwhp the fab work goes throw the roof and then it becomes for me too much for the limited time I have till the snow flies and I have to pull the Camaro off the road for the winter. The rarety of the 284 (cant find one) makes it hard to push those 400+ numbers @ the crank with an auto. The 4t60e is'nt known much for it's strength. I destroyed my first one in one burn out on the original tune @ nearly 100 fwhp less then the above planed TT set up. I have an HD 4t60e but now I'm not too sure I trust it will hold up. Last thing I wanna do is pull the trany back out after 500+ motor breakin miles. I'll keep ya posted.. Laters..
Sending for Megasquirt II engine management kit today...WooHoo!
Kit contains the following:
Onboard MAP sensor for NA or boosted engines up to 21psi!
Speed density or Alpha-N.
Use any injector - High or Low impedance.
Compatible with output from narrowband and wideband O2 sensors.
Log data on your laptop for later analysis.
Tuning software is free for download and regularly updated with new features.
Open Source design - all code and hardware information is available online.
Includes proper female DB37 connector and shell for your wiring harness.
Additional Features new to the MegaSquirt-II
•24 MHz HCS12 processor,
•Fuel control to 1 µsec (100 times more resolution than MegaSquirt-I),
•Ignition control (full spark timing advance control, dwell control, etc) for one coil/distributor (7 pin HEI for example) and Ford's EDIS systems,
•On-board stepper motor driver for IAC stepper control (this requires a few jumpers, included in this kit, to be added on the MegaSquirt PCB to connect the socket jumpers to the DB37 connector),
•Ford PWM idle valve firmware support,
•Built-in rev limiter, either 'fuel cut' or 'spark retard',
•All tables are now 12×12 in size,
•WBO2 AFR target table (in AFR units),
•Independent dual-tables for VE and AFR target,
•EGO feedback in wide-band mode is proportional to the difference between the measured AFR and the target AFR, the bigger the difference, the bigger the feedback step,
•Spark advance table can have different rpm and kpa bins than VE and AFR tables,
•115,200 baud serial interface with MegaTune2.25+,
•CANbus networking
•Barometric correction amount and direction configurable in software, and provisions for:
◦barometric correction based on initial MAP reading,
◦independent 2nd barometric MAP sensor for continuous real-time baro correction, or
◦no baro correction.
•TPS values for open loop and flood clear mode are user configurable,
•MAP based open loop can be set as well as TPS,
•Both TPS and MAP based accel enrichment is built into the code, you can configure the ratio of each,
•Blended Alpha-N and speed density is an option,
•2 spare I/O lines for custom controls. (This is in addition to 4 lines for Idle stepper control if you don't need this, or the Fast idle solenoid then becomes a spare if you do use a stepper motor.)
Update part2: Picked up a "Touch Screen" display for my megasquirt aswell
Some of the parameters you can monitor are:
•RPM
•Manifold Pressure (boost)
•Air/Fuel Ratio
•Coolant Temperature
•Intake Air Temperature
•Injector PulseWidth
•EGO Correction
•EAE Fuel Correction
•Ignition Advance
What intake gaskets are those?
Updated felpro's.Quote:
Originally Posted by GTP231
They metal like the latest updated GM?Quote:
Originally Posted by Smittro
They seem to have a metal core surounded by black plastic/nylon.. Not sure if I'm even going to use that type though. I'm thinking custom intake @ this point.. The old so called tunel ram plenum has a one piece throttle body, and it's not quite where I need it to be. Throttle sits @ like a 45* angle I think I'd rather have it be strait out ahead of the primary intake manifold. And get a different TB for it too.Quote:
Originally Posted by GTP231
coming along nice :yup:
Thanx Crash slowly but gettin' there..:xfingers::thumbup:;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr.Crash
im loving it man!! looks good! and i see what you saying about the custom fabs. i've never really dealt with computer systems is the megasquirt pretty easy? i mean does it come pretty much plug and play assembled or do you have to like sauder the wires and stuff? and how much was it and the touchscreen? (if its not to personal) i plan on doing a build in the next few years that will require a system like that
It's pricey but not so bad that it would set you back that much. The kit is a hand assembly unit,(much cheaper that way) and has to be soldiered up. And the touch screen was quite a bit more than the kit lol. But it's a true stand alone unit, I fugured I'd just not mess around with piggy backs anymore, it just was'nt worth trying to upgrade the stock ECM. Once the unit is assembled yes it's pretty much plug and play.. The touch screen has 2 USB ports built in you just plug in and down load your tune.Quote:
Originally Posted by adrenalinejunkie
The touch screen will let me monitor the whole system from inside the car anytime and anywhere.:naughty: Just plan for spending 4 figures to get ya there with it.
nice. sounds like the way to go for sure. is that 4 figures for the touch screen and standalone unit or just the stand alone unit?
Stand alone and touch screen are sold individually...With some of the other cables (still on order) I'm lookin' @ roughly $800ish + some extra materials I'll need to mount the touch screen and so forth. So about a grand for everything. You can get the units assembled, or the kits (unassembled) for less if you dont get the kit with the ECM case (shown below on the right).Quote:
Originally Posted by adrenalinejunkie
This is the unit layed out on a grid the larger squares are 1"x 1" to show the dimentions of the two units. (unassembled).
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/t...ittro1/ECM.jpg
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/t..._closeup_3.jpg
I DO NOT recommend this type of kit for those who have little or no knowledge of how to work with individual electronic componets and/or their assembly.
Also ordered, boost controller, plug and play pig tail connecter, extra 23" length labeled wires for megaII, Performance fuel pressure reg, and USB adapter wire for touch screen to ECM connection, and boost mod kit..
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/t...Picture005.jpg
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/t...Picture004.jpg
smittro are you from pa?
Woohoo! Found a trany!!! Proly need rebuilt but a nice 284 Muncie Getrag has been found!! Now let's hope I get the bid on f'in Egay!!
ABOUT DAMN TIME!!! HAHA. Nice find.Quote:
Originally Posted by Smittro
LOL, well lets hope I get the bid and not the :Pow: shaft haha...Quote:
Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS
F*^K no deal have to keep looking I guess. My other option is rebuilding my auto. I'm going to look into the 4t65e aswell. The alternative is building a 282 5spd, a stock one would never hold up to my motor boosted..UUUUUGGGGGGHHHHH!!!
I love to see a v6 with tons of power. Where did you get your turbo kit from? Thanks.
Mirage Power out of CA. They carry them on egay but you have to watch out for some of their turbo kits.Quote:
Originally Posted by Motomas
Thanks for the quick reply and good luck with the build.Quote:
Originally Posted by Smittro
Also one of the main issues I've heard about Ebay turbos is oil leaks into the boost outlet. This is most likely due to dumbies not using an oil presure reducer b4 feeding oil to thier turbos.. The ones I've got carry a replacement warrenty aswell.
No prob, and thanx.Quote:
Originally Posted by Motomas
Yeah I've been looking for a turbo for a little while and definetely looking for ones with good warrenties especially since this will be my first turbo.
Nice! If you're new to boost get some good folks to help you with it. There are good folks here that can help aswell. LS1.COM is definetly good place to start. I've got a buddy who's gonna help me tune her when I get her finished. Starting with low boost and work my way up to desired level without losing a ton of reliability. @ least that's the goal anyway.lol:devil:Quote:
Originally Posted by Motomas
So how close to being done r you?I wanna c it in action.:thumbup:
Lots of stuff still to do. Gotta get a trans yet or my old one rebuilt to handle the motor. Then pull the front end off and start the fab work for the intercooler and piping. Then just to name a few things here, relocate the battery, winddhield washer, rethink a coolant rez, build the exhaust, the ecm, etc etc etc. Right now it's all about buying parts and so fourth, so I have it all @ the time of placeing it all back into the car. Plus I think I'm going to build my own intake from scratch aswell. On and on it goes lol. It's a massive undertaking to say the least. Mostly due to the lack of space under the hood and a nearly non existant after market for the TDC.Quote:
Originally Posted by Motomas
Wow hopefully you won't run into any major problems. And your definatly one of the few that is doing it on a 6. Maybe one day with the bad economy and bad gas prices there will be more market in this. Good LuckQuote:
Originally Posted by Smittro
Thanx I can use it..Quote:
Originally Posted by Motomas
Small update.. Started working on my stand alone the other day. Had redo the factory work, (did'nt like the workmanship) and lengthen the overall harness. I'd picked up the properly labeled wires a while back. The wires have label of where they go written into their coatings. Makes life a little easier for the installer (me).
This is the original set up. There was nothing to support the wires where they entered the ECM plug. Looked like a weak spot to me.
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/t...o1/Image14.jpg
This is after I removed the factory crap covering.
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/t...o1/Image11.jpg
I desided to wheather proof the 2 areas @ the factory crimpings for added strength and protection with heat shrink tubbing.
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/t...o1/Image12.jpg
Now a bundling layer @ the base of the plug and running down about 8 or so inches.
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/t...ro1/Image9.jpg
Next I soldiered the wire ends to their corresponding wires..
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/t...o1/Image10.jpg
Heat shrinking each of them aswell.
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/t...Harness003.jpg
Then using a long length of heat shrink tubbing, I covered the harness to about 2/3 the total length. As you can see I also fused the cable to the plug for added harness durability @ the plug end.
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/t...ro1/Image8.jpg
Nice work Sir!
Thanks Jon..I'm workin' on it.
looking good, when is the project completion date?
Who knows lol.. Shit ton of fab work yet, I've been slow working on it lately. Hope to get more going this weekend.:devil:Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr.Crash
Nice.
Thanks guys I'll get some more pics up soon..
so what engine are you doing this on anyways?
<-------A 92 3.4L TDC (twin duel cam).Quote:
Originally Posted by 35th02Z28
oh ok well even though I hardly know anything about v6's I want to see how this turns out looks very promisingQuote:
Originally Posted by Smittro
Update:
Spent some of Fri, Sat, and Sunday, Building my stand alone engine managment system kit.
Just had to put the contents of these "couple" lol, bags on the blank board.
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt221/Smittro1/1.jpg
An idea of the size of components I'm working with..
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt221/Smittro1/2.jpg
Starting @ the top of the bare board. (FET) placement etc. And temporarly tape them in place.
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt221/Smittro1/3.jpg
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt221/Smittro1/4.jpg
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt221/Smittro1/5.jpg
This is the tip on the soldering iron I used. It's plated so not to let solder stick to it.
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt221/Smittro1/6.jpg
Soldered then afterwards clip the ends off with mini end cutters.
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt221/Smittro1/7.jpg
Each small bag denotes it's contents and Alpha Numeric placement and pole direction (if nessasary).
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt221/Smittro1/8.jpg
For example: These are diodes that only let current flow in one dirrection.
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt221/Smittro1/9.jpg
After the first few pieces are in place I removed the tape and used 4 Nylon bolts and nuts. This is temporarily to hold the board up for further piece placement.
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/t...mittro1/10.jpg
Then repeat and continue with each tiny circuit.
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/t...mittro1/12.jpg
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/t...mittro1/11.jpg
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/t...mittro1/13.jpg
Them bolted on the end panels.
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/t...mittro1/20.jpg
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/t...mittro1/21.jpg
Then installing a 40 pin riser bridge, for the Daughter board which just presses in place.
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/t...mittro1/14.jpg
Daughter board: (factory assembled).
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/t...mittro1/15.jpg
Daughter board installed, and heat transfer paste (white) on the backs of the (FETS) and transitors.
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/t...mittro1/16.jpg
The small hole is for a vacuum line for the "on board" MAP.
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/t...mittro1/18.jpg
Then on to the grounded heat sink. It's the long plate across the (FET's).
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/t...mittro1/17.jpg
After all checks are made and everything is inspected or gone over to be sure it works I place the lid on the unit.
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/t...mittro1/22.jpg
The finished unit and harness connected:
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/t...mittro1/23.jpg
Mega bump
how difficult was that to do?
Well as you could see in one of the pics I have hot dog fingers and the parts are tiny, not all but most are. First thing one would need is to know how to solder circuit board individual circuits. A good understanding of what things are (each circuit) and how to test them. If someone is good @ just simple soldering I wound'nt recommend this type of kit. They would be IMHO better off just buying one that's already built. I've been fooling with electronics for years as a hobby so it was'nt to bad for myself to tackle it (aside from the big fingers).Quote:
Originally Posted by 35th02Z28
Also one would have to know how to control temps on the part being soldered. Some electronic componets will die if over heated. With an iron up to temp it can take less than a split second to heat up the pin and apply solder. So work fast and be deliberate. Compressed air can help cool things down after they are soldered too. Some folks even use a spray refrigerant to cool down a part instantly.
ya definitely not for someone who hasn't been doing it for a long while like me I only know basic soldering sadly. But its interesting that you can get this stuff and build it yourself I personally don't know a lot about the computers and other related electronics just putting that out there in case I say something dumb lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Smittro
Also it's good to have a SUPER clean room, with climate control. High humidity can be a bad thing, and so can sweat on your board cause one will be leaning over it ALOT. Laytex gloves are good too. I have a "white" shop room in my house so it made things a little nicer for me.
Nah nothing dumb about asking. I appreciate the interest. Hard to find sometimes when you're a v6 guy lol. The cost of buying the kit rather than the unit assembled was literaly night and day difference. I could have gone that route, but why spend the coin if ya aint gotta I always say. The tech support for the unit assembly is top shelf too. They can and will answer ANY questions a person thinking of doing one as I have built can think of. They answer emails too almost within moments for some. DIY (purchase company) has pages and pages of asked questions on file, and openly gives numerous DIY links to developers for someone to ask a question. The tuner software is also free!Quote:
Originally Posted by 35th02Z28
No BS to buy just log on and down load. They constantly update the software too and updates are free also.
well its very interesting theres nothing wrong with an american V6 especially when you got a lot of horses, perfect sleeper lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by Smittro
I love the TDC v6 mostly because it is rare to see them with a turbo, and I've never come across one that was a TT. It's probably the only 90s' v6 exclusively built by Chevrolet, rather than it being a buick, pontiac, olds, and so forth. Chevy built them from concept to production. So it's an all chevy motor going into a chevy.Quote:
Originally Posted by 35th02Z28
The engines were used exclusivly in w-body production cars and nowhere else. Only in Z34 for chevy (maybe a hand full of euros), and in 92 if I remeber correctly out of maybe 100,000 luminas, only 82-8400 were Z34's. The 5 spd is rare since they went all auto in about 94. The transmissions were Muncie Getrag 284. Since Pontiac stopped producing the Fiero, the 284 Muncie getrag, was also exclusive to the w-body platform. But some of the "little" 3.4 TDC tech lives on to this day.
When you hear the words "North Star" think TDC....
You're a mad man....
hehehe:devil::devil::devil:Quote:
Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS
Damn! I thought I was the man after I built a time delay for an alarm system and soldered a new LCD display into my Sony headunit a few years back. But after looking at your work... :notworthy:
north star is the motor they put in cadillacs right?Quote:
Originally Posted by Smittro
Yes. Some of its tech and things they learned can be traced back to the TDC v6.Quote:
Originally Posted by 35th02Z28
http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=116619
LOL I have'nt gotten to the LCD yet. But I have a touchscreen LCD for the computer I've just built too. It's a little more plug and play, but it has to be mounted, and some kind of shell has to be made for it yet aswell. Thanx for the interest too.Quote:
Originally Posted by pajeff02
Below is the LCD from my 3rd page of this built post.
oh k nice write up though very informative,didn't know those 3.4's put that much to the flywheelQuote:
Originally Posted by Smittro
yeah the potential is definetly there with the TDC (Twin Duel Cam). Most people I know do'nt know much about them. With little to no after market people usually do'nt mess with them. Too hard to work on, and expensive. GTP231 here @ the site knows quite a bit about them though. Right Carpy?lolQuote:
Originally Posted by 35th02Z28
I figure he'll be around sooner or later lol..
Forced Fire bird has a sick (good) TT build going too. His is a 3.4,3.5 single cam v6 hybrid. Lots of custom work too..
Anyway,
Example of the after market for the TDC to just name a few:
After market cams= none
Headers= none
Performance Intake manifold= none
After market TB= none
OBD1 chips = there are a few companies that make them, I used the Hypertech stage 3 with my old setup.
if someone was planning to build one of these awesome little power plants, they should be prepared to spend $$$.
For big power apps you're looking @ a bunch of one off stuff. Cams can be recut but few shops will do it.
The shops around here generally wont touch the TDC, mostly it's getting harder and harder to find folks that know how to work on them. Or they just plain wont due to it's notorious complexity.
But long story short the sound of a well tuned TDC and a custom exhaust @ 7200 rpm is something to hear. Cant be described by me other than (as the article states) a screamer. I was tuned to come out of first @ 7100rpm, and the looks I got when passing a ricer @ those levels was priceless. I'd been asked a hundred or so times if I had a v8 under the hood lol.
Just thought I'd add.
Here's the Touch Screen LCD connected to the ECM. It's the largest LCD they carry for the module.
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/t...mittro1/24.jpg
ya lol ricers aren't the smartest guys on the block especially the honda guys who think V-tech's are the best thing on the planet. But when you get this done its going to be funny to see when you beat a LS1 or a stang lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Smittro
Haha I was playin' with some sideways hat punk in a poorly tuned Honda Civic the other day with my Camaro. He was blowing black smoke out the fart can lol. He had this huge tack mounted to the pillar that was so big it was in his field of veiw. He would punch it and I'd just drive right up to his door and look over @ him laughing my ass off while bouncing my nose in second. It was f'in funny. He say's "I need a tune!" I yelled, you do'nt need a tune you need an f'in car! :devil:Quote:
Originally Posted by 35th02Z28
:lmao::iagree: those imports are the most annoying cars when they have a fart their even worse to ride inQuote:
Originally Posted by Smittro
Haha tin can cars. Ever see what happens when they hit a tree @ 60mph?Quote:
Originally Posted by 35th02Z28
Reminds me of busting open a pinyatah(sp) with a hand grenade, shit flies everywhere.lol
haha well I haven't really seen any hit a tree a before. But that doesn't sound very safe if that happensQuote:
Originally Posted by Smittro
It is'nt lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by 35th02Z28
looking for a getrag 284? they aren't cheap and they aren't plentiful...but there are a few out there...try here...
www.car-parts.com
they're on there goin from $250 up to $850 across the US.
also i might mention that the 4t60e and the 4t60-ehd aren't all that different. i think it's the input shaft inside the trans is a little bit thicker and has a heavier duty bearing on it and some of the internal components are made out of hardened steel. that's about it though. you can actually build a tougher 4t60e with aftermarket parts than you can buy as the hd version from gm in say the early 90's olds 88 LSS.
Thanks but i got a line on a couple right now. I also thought about building a 4t60e aswell..
Quote:
Originally Posted by Smittro
4T60E -- "T" as in transverse? Not familiar with this designation.
LOL yes 4T60e is for frontwheel drive cars. The 92 Z-34 is a puller car.. The Muncie getrag 284 5spd is a w-body specific transaxle. Only one other car came with it Fiero.. Very hard to find. The 4t60e is a very weak auto trans, that is known for diff troubles. The TDC eats them stock wheather it's 200hp or the 215 hp motor. It's mostly due to the high reving nature of the TDC, aswell as a weak design.. I scattered my old one on the old tune of 265 fwhp..Quote:
Originally Posted by pajeff02
Quote:
Originally Posted by Smittro
My wife drove a '92 Lumina for a few years -- never had any trans problems so I did not pay attention to what was in it.
<------The TDC only came in the Z34, and later a few euros had them. Engine is also mostly specific to the z34 from Chevy, Olds and Pontiac had them but they are all chevy motors. It's the only engine ever offered in z34. The car you wife had was either a 4 cyl, or the 3.1 60* v6 with 135 hp @ the crank. The standard Lumina is slightly different car aswell. The 92 z34 was a loaded car and nascar inspired. Sport suspention and so forth.Quote:
Originally Posted by pajeff02
Ps the 3.1, and the 4cyl does pretty well with the 4t60e behind it with thier much lower rev limiter. The 92 TDC red lines @ 7000 rpm. Quite simply they just eat 4t60e and the TDC was actually heavily detuned for the tranny they used. After 93-94 the 4t60e was changed to the 4t60e(heavy duty) which was a little better version but still was easily eaten by the TDC depending on how it was driven. There were only about 8400 z34's produced in 92... Also most of the older z34's still on the road are 92's and a few from 91 with less electronics than later years..
i'm pretty sure that the 4t65e will bolt up to the 3.4DOHC. of course you'll have some computer work to do to it...but i've seen 500+hp cars with bullet proof 4t65e transaxles.
Engine was a 3.1 -- I remember having an oil leak and it turned out to be a deteriorated o-ring. Engine had a dummy shaft in the distributor hole to drive the oil pump if I remember right. The hole was a left over from the old style ignition system and it was leaking oil. The 3.1 was a good running engine - plenty of power and when you dropped the hammer it moved.
Yeah I know that but it never came in the z34 from the factory. The fact is there are very few auto trannies that will hold the TDC. Unless you dump a shit ton of money into the tranny..Any trans that will bolt to a 60* v6 will bolt to a TDC, like I said it's a matter of weather it will hold up..:coffee:Quote:
Originally Posted by 1MileCrash
Nope 3.1 60*v6 was push rod engine. The TDC (Twin Dual Cam) 3.4L uses a "blank" cam to run the oil pump and a toothed pully to turn the 4 cams on top. The O'ring you're reffering to leaking is a common problem with the stock TDC. There's a new o'ring now that is made of a different type of material that has illiminated that prob. Now it's quite possible you're confusing what motor your car had. The Euro Lumina sometimes had the TDC 3.4L as the z34 did.. 3.1 is a good running engine though it lacked hp (well under 200), it had great low end torque.. My avatar shows a TDC from the front..Quote:
Originally Posted by pajeff02
Page one of this build thread shows my TDC without the primary intake, if you look in one of the pics you can see where the distributor block off cap is and where they will leak..
Quote:
Originally Posted by Smittro
lol -- Yes, the 3.1 was the pushrod V-6, which is what we had. I understand the differences between that and the TDC, especially after reading the info you posted in this thread. The 3.1 had a leaking o-ring from the hole a distributor would have been installed in it. When I saw it, I just figured the engineers decided it was the easiest way to upgrade the ignition system -- plug the hole.
Haha your right there my bad. They used the black rubber o'ring. They would get hard over time and leak like crazy, because the oil is pressurized there. I mean man they would leak a shit ton of oil sometimes there. All the 60* v6's are great motors they all had their problems too. But as far as design it was a well balanced engine from bottom end to top. The 90* v6 motors are reffered to as "boat anchors" in the 60* v6 community. The 3800 90* has even been replaced with a 60* engine now that the 3800 has been discontinued..Quote:
Originally Posted by pajeff02
The 300+ hp v6 2010 camaro is powered by a 60* 3.6l v6..
Quote:
Originally Posted by Smittro
That is damn impressive from a V-6. Especially considering the turbocharged 3.8 did not hit that mark without aftermarket tweaks. If I recall, they were around 245 hp, with the GNX topping out at 276 hp. There is a 471 original mile GN that sits about 2 miles from my house -- the owner had me come look at it several months ago as he was contemplating selling it.
Okay! This is the factory engine harness for my 92 TDC. Since I'm using a MegaSquirtII and getting rid of most of the emissions crap we'll need to cut out the fat.
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/t...ittro1/1-1.jpg
This is what we have after carefully removing all the nearly 18 year old coverings. The parts of the harness that we'll be using are in very good shape with no connector corrosion.
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/t...ittro1/2-1.jpg
Here's the "fat" this is the emissions side of the harness and the factory connectors cut away from it. Just do it do'nt be skurd!!
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/t...ittro1/3-1.jpg
There's a myth going around that the older TDC's with tuned port injection fires 3 injectors @ a time with the assumption that a set of valves will be open when they fire.. FALSE!! ALL 6 fire @ the same time using this principal.
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/t...ittro1/4-1.jpg
As you can see, the injectors are all spliced @ the factory into these 2 wires.
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/t...ittro1/5-1.jpg
I started by cutting all of the injector leads to the same length. "OH NOES he cut the injector leads!" So what!, as long as you correctly reconnect them later and sheild them you'll be fine with no probs.
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/t...ittro1/6-1.jpg
Here's how I do it you guys may have your own way. I like my way lol.
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/t...ittro1/7-1.jpg
Starting with these rubber grommets, some heat shrink, and an eye for detail.
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/t...ittro1/8-1.jpg
Placeing the larger grommet first, then the smaller one on top, and shrink the tubbing. The purpose of this is so that when you bend the wire it does not bend @ the plug, but rather slightly higher..
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/t...ittro1/9-1.jpg
Side veiw..
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/t...ttro1/10-1.jpg
Once that has cooled some I then place another piece if tubbing over the end and over lapping the red tubbing by @ least 1/2 inch and shrink it down.
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/t...ttro1/11-1.jpg
Bending a 90*ish bend in the wires while the heat shrink tubbing is still hot then letting it cool for a more permanant bend in it.
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/t...ttro1/12-1.jpg
......And finally using the same process on wheather proof connectors, with the exception of leaving a small flap of heat shrink tubbing to go under the rubber seal. This will bolster the seal for a super good air and water tight fit.
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/t...ttro1/13-1.jpg
Just a small update, I'll post the final product in a few days or so thanx for the interest....
You do damn nice work. I am really looking forward to seeing this project when it is completed.
Thank you, and I'm getting closer, still have plenty to do but there be light @ the end of ye tunnel lol..Quote:
Originally Posted by pajeff02
I repeated process for all 6 injector leads.
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/t...mittro1/01.jpg
Then taking a length of shrink tubing about 10-12 inches long, and cut 2 holes into it.
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/t...mittro1/02.jpg
Removing some of the wire insullation and shrink tubing in prep for soldering the leads together leaving the lead length untouched.
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/t...mittro1/03.jpg
Before I fused the first leads I fed one of the leads I made up though the end and out one of the notches I made earlier. The soldered them together.
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/t...mittro1/04.jpg
Then added some heat shrink to cover the solder joints.
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/t...mittro1/05.jpg
Feeding them back through the 1st hole and back out of the 2nd hole.
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/t...mittro1/06.jpg
....And repeating for the last hole. Then back through and out the end of the shrink tubing.
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/t...mittro1/07.jpg
Then shrink the whole length down and we're done with one side. Since there are only 2 injector leads on the MegaII, we'll be firing 3 injectors @ at a time rather than one @ a time. I could fire them one @ a time but that would require another module which I do'nt really need for my set up..
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/t...mittro1/08.jpg
There can't be three pistons all drawing down on the intake stroke, so what happens to the injector shot? I have heard of the injectors being "ganged" together, but I never understood the reason other than to simplify the fuel system.
The shot ends up just laying on the valves that are closed. The GM idea is that when they fire @ least one set (2 intake per cyl) of valves will be open. The old set up from GM fired all 6 @ once, I've just narrowed it down to 3 basicly making the old rumor a fact lol. :devil: Yeah I know it sounds strange but that just how it is in the 92 TDC lol. Later years had sequential injection and eliminated the "all @ once" injector firing. The plan for me now is to move the injectors out of their ports and fire 3 when one set of valves is open rather than letting it pool on the valves that are closed.Quote:
Originally Posted by pajeff02
With no after market intakes made guess who has to make a custom intake too wink wink..
The only reason I can figure why GM would fire the injectors in such a fasion is it's a simplistic way to do it. It may also serve to quench the heated valves. But if you think about it the fuel even @ idle is'nt there long. The shot is/was also fired into the opening of the intake valves on the heads too. As you can see here in this pic there is a notch in the top of each of the intake ports.This is where the injector heads fired into the ports. This = port injection.
Does the accumulated fuel act to richen the intake charge, or does it boil off? Would be neat to watch this on a high speed camera to see what actually happens.
Sheet metal intake in the works?
