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Header Install
Would like to start up a technical post on long tube header install. I see allot of people that have bought headers recently (including myself) and are wary about installing them.
I’ve tried to take the best photos I have, but please excuse if the photos are dark, most of my work was done in the garage at nighttime with the doors closed and my cheap camera tends to blur if I try to toy with the settings.
Tools
* Floor jack - at least 20" of lift. 18” is bare minimum, but not recommended
* 4 Jack Stands - at least 20"
* ratchet - 8mm for battery: 10mm for coil pack bolts and header bolts: 8mm (deep) and 13mm (deep) for leads to starter and 13mm (deep) for starter bolts: 15mm for dipstick tube and exhaust plumbing: 5/8" spark plug socket
* wrenches - 10mm ratcheting wrench for last bolt on each side of coil pack holders: 7/8" or 22mm wrench to remove 02 sensors.(then throw that damn bolt away)
* PB Penetrating lube
* Anti-Seize – buy a big bottle. Keep it around.
* Soft blanket or fender mat – protect your car paint from scuffs while leaning into your engine bay.
* A friend to help!!! I’ve heard of people doing this themselves and I did all but line up the gaskets on the headers by myself. Don’t be stupid like me.
Optional Tools
SAWZALL – if your having problems with your bolts from the flanges on the y-pipe people have referenced to cut it.
Benzomatic Torch – stubborn bolts
parts
* Headers - Your choice. I used the Pacesetter ceramic coated
* Y-pipe – referenced here is the TSP catted Y-pipe. PITA
*exhaust clamps – Your Y-pipe should come with new clamps, verify.
PLEASE… Don’t use the u-bolt style exhaust clamps. Get band clamps
* GM Header Gasket - new model released PN 12617944 $21 each (GMPartsDirect has them for ~$9.80 ea)
DO NOT USE PAPER GASKET SUPPLIED
optional parts
* Corvette 02 sensors - Rear 2001 Corvette 02 Sensors Bosch PN 13111 (square end connectors) $69.99 ea.
Just noticed it looks like our front 02's are the square pin connectors which would be the rear corvette 02's
* 98-02 02 sims - $99.99 pair (ouch)
* 02 extensions - 2 24" square 4-pin extensions PN O2EXT12 ~$30
* Stage 8 locking header bolts - $37.99
* 98-00 EGR Block off Plate - $9 ea
* 98-02 Air block off plate & gaskets - Pair $12
* Spark plugs – If you haven’t changed Plugs before, now IS the time to do it.
* Spark plug wires – ditto
* Motor mounts – some change while they’re in there
food for thought
-Corvette 02's you can get from any major parts store, or you can get the extenders but just one or the other.
-No sims, get it tuned out in your mail order tune (tunedbyfrost.com $125 for mail order tuning)
-most people re-use their stock gaskets and never have problems, just make sure you DO NOT use the wierd paper gaskets most headers come with because they will burn through.
- plugs and wires
- I will try to list sizes of tools during the install, but probably won’t go into specifics if you should use a shallow socket, deep socket or wrench. I’m hoping you can figure this out on your own.
- Make sure to pretreat your bolts with PB Blaster. Life is so much easier this way.
- I did not list it, but ANTISEIZE all threaded bolts that deal with heat.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by
chuckie669
I would like to start up a technical post on longtube header install. I see allot of people that have bought headers recently (including myself) and are wary about installing them.
Now I've installed everything on my car sofar excluding welding and alignments and have no reservations about installing headers.
If you can post up and I'll update this initial post with part numbers, tips to make the job easier, tools required, bolt sizes etc...
I'm amazed installuniversity and ls1howto don't have a header write up and would be happy if we at LS1.com could get a good thorough thread.
Tools
Floor jack - at least 20" lift
4 Jack Stands - at least 20"
ratchet - metric sizes 8mm for battery: 10mm for coil pack bolts and header bolts: 8mm (deep) and 13mm (deep) for leads to starter and 13mm (deep) for starter bolts: 15mm for dipstick tube: 5/8" spark plug socket
wrenches - metric sizes 10mm wratcheting wrench for last bolt on each side of coil pack holders: 7/8" or 22mm wrench to remove 02 sensors.(then throw that damn bolt away)
SAWZALL!!! Cut your stock y pipe off before just after cats cause on 3 cars I've done we could not get the bolts out of those triangle and ball-type flanges
optional parts
Corvette 02 sensors - was 97 rears the replacement we can use to fit LT's instead of extensions?
02 extensions -
02 sims -
GM Header Gasket - new model released PN 12617944 $21 each
-Corvette 02's I got from autozone, or you can get the extenders but just one or the other.
-No sims, get it tuned out in your mail order tune (LSXTune.com $125 for mail order tuning)
-most people re-use their stock gaskets and never have problems, just make sure you DO NOT use the wierd paper gaskets most headers come with cause mine burned through.
-plugs and wires
Install
I/P
-Remove negative battery cable (or both if u wanna).
-Jack car up and put it on stands.
-Remove 13mm bolts holding starter in place and carefull wiggle it free. Then remove the 8mm nut holding lead to ignition and 13mm nut and power wire and remove starter.
-Remove 10 (5 from each side) 10mm bolts from coil pack assembly (99-02 cars, 98 cars will have to remove them one by one). The last bolt on each side is gonna be a major PITA, but the 10mm wratcheting wrench will do wonders! *Step optional but gives you so much more room to work*
-Remove plug wires from coil packs and remove assembly.
-Remove spark plug wires and spark plugs (5/8" plug socket)
-Remove 02 sensors
-Now, get under the car with the sawzall and safety glasses and cut that POS stock y-pipe out of the way just after the stock cats. Then either cut it or slide it out of the intermediate pipe.
-Remove dipstick tube by unbolting 15mm bolt that holds the bracket to the head.
-Use 10mm sockets and ratchet and start removing AIR pump fittings, EGR firring/valve (98-00 cars), and manifold bolts and slip manifolds out through the bottom.
-Installation of the headers is pretty much the reverse of removal but can vary a little bit per setup (ory/catted y, band clamps, etc)
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You dont necessarily need to remove or unbolt the starter. Ive installed 4 sets of headers on 4 different vehicles and I never had to touch the starter.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by
NoscamaroSS
You dont necessarily need to remove or unbolt the starter. Ive installed 4 sets of headers on 4 different vehicles and I never had to touch the starter.
No, you don't need to unbolt the coil packs either but for an extra 20 min of work it gives you a little bit more room. Whats it take, 5 min to remove a starter...?
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All information is fine with me. I'm working on collecting everything I can and when I do my install, I plan to take pics and post them up along with steps labeled optional. Any info that makes the job easier is definitely welcome and will be posted accordingly as non essential to the effort. I plan on going to Oreilly tonight to find the right corvette 02 part number and brands that I can use to replace. Also, GMParts direct who I believe is a sponsor sells the header gaskets for 9.80'ish which is more than $10 cheaper than dealer.
Post up anything beneficial to the install and I'll be sure to post up initially and then after completing I will be cleaning the initial thread up and formatting in a project style order (thats the goal anywhoo).
Be in touch,
Brad
EDIT: Anyone who has done this without a lift (using jack, jackstands and rhino ramps), what height did you have your car lifted to be able to install?
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really good info i just got me some hooker headers myself. i hate reading instructions. any videos on how to intall them:)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by
2000sevan
really good info i just got me some hooker headers myself. i hate reading instructions. any videos on how to intall them:)
I'm hoping to have some good pics, but 8 hrs of cursing is probably not what you want to see.
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Everytime I have done them I've jacked the car up as far as I could get it just to make it easier, but I'd say around 2 ft...? Wish we had taken pics, but too focused on the work/drinking beer to reall take pics as we did the work.
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lift def.makes this install a WHOLE lot easier.i installed pacesetter long tubes last sat.and on the driver side we had trouble getting the header in,the instructions say to loosen the d/s motor mount but that's some b.s.,just remove the trans mount bolt and lift the rear on the trans up and the header will slid right in for automatic cars.also found that on drivers side a 24 inch o2 extension would be better than a 12 inch,because on my car the o2 wires were laying on the header pipes,we modified the 12 inch ext,added about another 12 inches and rerouted the wires for a MUCH better fit.these were the only issues we ran into,otherwise a straight forward install.
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Good info guys, I will probably make this a sticky at some point.
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can you guys go a little more into the O2 sensor stuff. im gonna be installing my QTP longtubes here in the next month. i am gonna be running magnaflow high-flow cats, and keeping the egr/air. i already have headers, cats, clamps, and stage8 bolts. my car is a 2000. do i need to buy new O2 sensors, or will my stock ones work? im also gonna have the car mail order tuned. just want to have everything so my car isnt on the lift for a week waiting for parts. thanks guys.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by
mpfranks
can you guys go a little more into the O2 sensor stuff. im gonna be installing my QTP longtubes here in the next month. i am gonna be running magnaflow high-flow cats, and keeping the egr/air. i already have headers, cats, clamps, and stage8 bolts. my car is a 2000. do i need to buy new O2 sensors, or will my stock ones work? im also gonna have the car mail order tuned. just want to have everything so my car isnt on the lift for a week waiting for parts. thanks guys.
I was starting this up to gather all the info for header installation from our knowledgeable members since the posts out there are very limited. My inspection is up in June, so I'll be doing the work and documenting in this thread within the next month hopefully. O2's will need to either have extensions or get the vette O2's which I believe are already posted above for PN.
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Alright guys, Need a little help and I'm sure most everyone that's done headers has had this issue. Trying to test fit the new Pacesetter on the driver side by sliding in from underneath and it gets caught up Looks like I need another half inch to an inch maybe. What did you guys do for the driver side? Options I can think of are to cut the k-member which I'd rather not do initially or unbolt the motor mounts which looks to be a huuge pita:no:. Opinions or suggestions?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by
02transamce
on the driver side we had trouble getting the header in,the instructions say to loosen the d/s motor mount but that's some b.s.,just remove the trans mount bolt and lift the rear on the trans up and the header will slid right in for automatic cars.also .
that will do it
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Well, cranked her up. Holy shit is it loud. Of course its still only open headers so what do you expect.:yay:
Tomorrow is figuring out how to put this damn TSP catted Y pipe in. I gotta find a pic or manual, something, because this looks like a damn puzzle.
Damn it sounded good.:woot2:
Night.
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It's a good feeling to hear it fire up the first time.
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Flowtech headers.
Hi !
I've installed flowtech longtube headers and Y-pipe on my Z28, 99ยจ.
I did not removed the starter and had no problem to get the headers in place.
What happend after on month was that when I should start the engine it just said click and everything went black.
After short troubleshooting I found that 50 amp fuse for ignition has blown.
I tried with new fuse and it also blow right away.
I've jacked the car and found that lead to ignition on starter was touching header and that isolation on lead was burned and shorted to header.
So I had to remove starter and reroute lead to get better clearance.
Now it works fine again.
If you don't remove the starter make sure that it's good clearance between leads and headers.
Installation went smooth. Jack the car as high as possible. I installed the headers alone so I put a floor jack under the headers to support them when I attached them to the engine.
I've some picture on where you can see where lead touched header but I don't now how to attach the pictures ???
Besr regards
//Patrik.
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Thanks for the post. You can create an account at photobucket dot com and from there its as easy as uploading and then clicking on the img tags by your picture and pasting them into a reply window.
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Pictures headers install.
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Alright, give me this weekend and I should have some pics and info up. Just drove her around the block and I probably looked like a retard with the bigass grin I had. Sofar, biggest downer is that my car is lowered and on the lowest spot I went from 3.5 in to 2 in ground clearance. Not sure if that's gonna work.
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i'll add..for my car (98 trans am a4) using qtp long tubes..i had to remove the oil pan drain plug and the filter to get clearance on the driver side..i also removed the metal heat shielding off of the motor mount too..after that..it was very easy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by
shady milkman
i'll add..for my car (98 trans am a4) using qtp long tubes..i had to remove the oil pan drain plug and the filter to get clearance on the driver side..i also removed the metal heat shielding off of the motor mount too..after that..it was very easy
Holy hell, I just had to pull out the dipstick tube and "massage" the floorboard on the driver's side
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Quote:
Originally Posted by
01ws6er
Holy hell, I just had to pull out the dipstick tube and "massage" the floorboard on the driver's side
the dipstick is on the passenger side
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Quote:
Originally Posted by
01ws6er
Holy hell, I just had to pull out the dipstick tube and "massage" the floorboard on the driver's side
it wasn't much at all
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Quote:
Originally Posted by
shady milkman
the dipstick is on the passenger side
should have used a comma... I pulled out the dipstick tube, and "massaged" the floorboard on the drivers side.
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Send me a picture and I could give you a better idea. I removed all my A.I.R.
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Looks kinda like this. Lol... There was a small wire on the driver side zip tied to the hose running to the back. Looks like it went into the firewall, so I left it alone.
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/e.../AirSystem.jpg
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Looks like you got it all.
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Would like to start up a technical post on long tube header install. I see allot of people that have bought headers recently (including myself) and are wary about installing them.
I’ve tried to take the best photos I have, but please excuse if the photos are dark, most of my work was done in the garage at nighttime with the doors closed and my cheap camera tends to blur if I try to toy with the settings.
Tools
* Floor jack - at least 20" of lift. 18” is bare minimum, but not recommended
* 4 Jack Stands - at least 20"
* ratchet - 8mm for battery: 10mm for coil pack bolts and header bolts: 8mm (deep) and 13mm (deep) for leads to starter and 13mm (deep) for starter bolts: 15mm for dipstick tube and exhaust plumbing: 5/8" spark plug socket
* wrenches - 10mm ratcheting wrench for last bolt on each side of coil pack holders: 7/8" or 22mm wrench to remove 02 sensors.(then throw that damn bolt away)
* PB Penetrating lube
* Anti-Seize – buy a big bottle. Keep it around.
* Soft blanket or fender mat – protect your car paint from scuffs while leaning into your engine bay.
* A friend to help!!! I’ve heard of people doing this themselves and I did all but line up the gaskets on the headers by myself. Don’t be stupid like me.
Optional Tools
SAWZALL – if your having problems with your bolts from the flanges on the y-pipe people have referenced to cut it.
Benzomatic Torch – stubborn bolts
parts
* Headers - Your choice. I used the Pacesetter ceramic coated
* Y-pipe – referenced here is the TSP catted Y-pipe. PITA
*exhaust clamps – Your Y-pipe should come with new clamps, verify.
PLEASE… Don’t use the u-bolt style exhaust clamps. Get band clamps
* GM Header Gasket - new model released PN 12617944 $21 each (GMPartsDirect has them for ~$9.80 ea)
DO NOT USE PAPER GASKET SUPPLIED
optional parts
* Corvette 02 sensors - Rear 2001 Corvette 02 Sensors Bosch PN 13111 (square end connectors) $69.99 ea.
Just noticed it looks like our front 02's are the square pin connectors which would be the rear corvette 02's
* 98-02 02 sims - $99.99 pair (ouch)
* 02 extensions - 2 24" square 4-pin extensions PN O2EXT12 ~$30
* Stage 8 locking header bolts - $37.99
* 98-00 EGR Block off Plate - $9 ea
* 98-02 Air block off plate & gaskets - Pair $12
* Spark plugs – If you haven’t changed Plugs before, now IS the time to do it.
* Spark plug wires – ditto
* Motor mounts – some change while they’re in there
food for thought
-Corvette 02's you can get from any major parts store, or you can get the extenders but just one or the other.
-No sims, get it tuned out in your mail order tune (tunedbyfrost.com $125 for mail order tuning)
-most people re-use their stock gaskets and never have problems, just make sure you DO NOT use the wierd paper gaskets most headers come with because they will burn through.
- plugs and wires
- I will try to list sizes of tools during the install, but probably won’t go into specifics if you should use a shallow socket, deep socket or wrench. I’m hoping you can figure this out on your own.
- Make sure to pretreat your bolts with PB Blaster. Life is so much easier this way.
- I did not list it, but ANTISEIZE all threaded bolts that deal with heat.
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Install
- NOTE - Before starting, make sure you have all your parts and tools, test fit anything such as y-pipe to verify fitment. You don’t want to be stuck with a part that doesn’t fit.
- Remove negative battery cable (or both if u wanna).
- Jack the car up and put it on stands or lift if your lucky enough. I did the whole install with only 18” of lift, but made for a very unpleasant experience on my back (sure that’s how my first gf felt).
- OPTIONAL - Remove 13mm bolts holding starter in place and carefully wiggle it free. Then remove the 8mm nut holding lead to ignition and 13mm nut and power wire and remove starter. I didn’t follow this step and it was a non-issue for me.
- Take apart anything that might be in your way in the engine bay. I removed my Fuel Rail Covers.
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/e...l/Starting.jpg
- Remove AIR provisions from your manifold using 10mm ratchet and good extensions. Once off I used a flathead screwdriver to remove the metal AIR pipe from the hose.
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/e...l/PICT1936.jpg
Time to go under the car…
- Remove the four bolts holding the cross brace that sits right underneath your Y-pipe 15mm if I recall. My new 3” Y-pipe didn’t clear so I left it off. Others have shimmed and reinstalled it after
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/e...l/PICT1941.jpg
- Now it’s time to remove the stock Y-pipe using a 15mm ratchet and some brute force. (Aren’t you glad you used pbblaster now). The flange piece that molds to the cats was the hardest part here.
- OPTIONAL – Some people have cut theirs off with a sawzall.
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/e...l/PICT1944.jpg
- After you loosened the Y-pipe from the cats, go ahead and remove any extra clamps or mounts holding the Y-pipe in.
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/e...l/PICT1949.jpg
- Now you should be able to gently remove the stock Y-pipe and get it out of your way.
- Remove your 02 sensor connections from the car.
- OPTIONAL - If you plan on reusing your 02’s, I would now go and using the 7/8’s wrench take them out. Mine were near impossible and I was only able to remove one out of four. I later took a benzo torch and heated them up (about 5-8 seconds) where the 02’s meet with the piping. They popped right off without any effort. Otherwise, you can leave them in the cats.
- Now remove your catalytic converters using the same 15mm wrench. You may need some extensions, and definitely a lot of oomph to get these off. Try pb blasting again if your having trouble. I was able to get my driver side off, but left the passenger cat attached to the header and removed without a problem (later separated by benzo torch)
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/e...l/PICT1977.jpg
Now we can go back into the engine bay…
Throw a blanket or fender mat over your fender for whichever side you are working on. You don’t want your clothes scuffing/scratching your paint while your upgrading your car. Might also need a small stepping stool (or if your like TS|S, a ladder).
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/e.../PICT1971 .jpg
-Remove the 10 bolts from the coil pack assembly (5 on each side) using a 10mm deep socket or ratcheting wrench (99-02 cars, 98 cars will have to remove them one by one) . They look like a basic 10mm bolt with a long point top. You will start thinking how easy this is, but when you hit the 5th bolt, they get pretty unpleasant. You don’t have to put that one back when you’re done. Driver side had an extra bolt holding my AIR provision piece in place also. Also, remove the wiring harness before removing.
I’ve previously done a spark plug install and did NOT put the #5 back one back onto the coil packs. Made life much easier for this install.
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/e...l/PICT1958.jpg
-Remove dipstick tube by unbolting 15mm bolt that holds the bracket to the head. Before just lifting it out, go back under and follow the tube down to know how it sits in the block for reinstall later.
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/e...PICT1986-1.jpg
Time for the dreaded spark plug removal. At this point, this should be super easy with the exhaust and emissions removed. (pic is removing #8)
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/e...l/PICT1983.jpg
- Remove the spark plug wires using the 5/8’s plug socket. With everything removed you should be able to get all eight from either the top or bottom with basic ratchet, socket and a single extension. (DAMN… It wasn’t that easy my first time).
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/e...l/PICT1966.jpg
- Hopefully you have a friend handy now. Remove the six header bolts 10mm carefully and you can slide the header down and out. Take the gasket and bolts and put them somewhere safely if you plan on reusing.
You should now have all of your old crap out and those shiny parts that have been calling to you can come out of the corner now.
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/e...l/PICT1970.jpg
- OPTIONAL - If you plan on doing motor mounts, now would be the time. Go find that thread and come back here when you’re done.
Using new gasket and header bolts or reusing stockers go to the next step.
- The passenger side header should slide in with minimal effort. You will either want a jack or a friend holding the header steady while you line up the gasket and put in the bolts. Rethread the bolts starting in the center and work your way out evenly. Torque to 11 ft lbs starting in the center and work your way out evenly. Then go back over at 18 ft lbs. Don’t forget ant seize
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/e...l/PICT1992.jpg
Driver side can be quite a bit more effort
- Gently slide it the header up and keep an eye for clearances. If god has blessed you, it will slide in. If your mortal like the rest of us, you will need to take some additional steps. Find where the problem is and the following are the typical solutions I’ve heard of.:
- With the new motor mounts, the problem may be solved
- Some will remove the DS motor mount bolts and slightly jack the motor to allow the header to slide in.
- Some remove the Trans mount bolt and lift the rear of the trans up and the header slides right in (automatic cars?)
- Some have had to grind the K-member back slightly
- Massaging the firewall
- Some have had to Remove oil pan drain plug and oil filter
Mine was catching on the firewall and K member. I tried “massaging the firewall slightly where it was catching. I still had an issue and shaved the K-member back slightly and after another test fitting hammered back a lip that was catching the back tab on the firewall. Header went in without any more grief.
- Same as passenger side. Slide in and line up the gasket, work from center out and torque to 11 ft lbs then 18 ft lbs. Don’t forget ant seize
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/e...l/PICT2004.jpg
- Reinstall your existing or new spark plugs now and snug up. Don’t forget ant seize
- Put your stock or new wires onto the plugs
- Reinstall your AIR provisions or install the block off plates now.
- Put your coil packs back on and snug up bolts Remember that #5 bolt? Put him in a Ziploc back and keep with all your other T/A keepsakes for a rainy day. Then reattach the plug wires to the coils. For first two days I only put two of the bolts on because I was going to pull and recheck all my bolts.
- Go back under your car and either put the stock 02’s with extension or corvette 02’s on now.
- OPTIONAL – start up the car and giggle like a little girl…..
- Y-pipe install might vary, but basically test fit and then install. Leave everything loose until you have it how you like. Then tighten everything back up. (check out the difference between stock and TSP
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/e...ipeCompare.jpg
- OPTIONAL – finish removing AIR System
- Go back over and make sure that you have reattached all your wiring harness (around coil packs, 02’s)
Time for a tune now!!!
Contributors
THANKS,
01ws6er
Noscamaro
02transamce
patrik
Special Thanks to the arborbarbor!!! Great guy
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Y2KPEWTERSS,
Can you combine post 30 and 31 and delete/replace the original post.
Also, clean up anything in the thread you deem necessary.
If I missed anything, people please feel free to comment so it can be corrected. Did this today with a 3month old screaming in my ear, so it's possible.
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closed. couldnt move writeup to beginning due to time, so started a new thread to replace this one.
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Hi i.jost ask is the pacsetter or not
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"Alright guys, Need a little help and I'm sure most everyone that's done headers has had this issue. Trying to test fit the new Pacesetter on the driver side by sliding in from underneath and it gets caught up Looks like I need another half inch to an inch maybe. What did you guys do for the driver side? Options I can think of are to cut the k-member which I'd rather not do initially or unbolt the motor mounts which looks to be a huuge pita. Opinions or suggestions? "
All you have to do is remove the steering linkage it is really easy. There are only 2 easy bolts to remove. A screw driver will pop it out and you will have all the room you need. It is just as easy to put back in with the header installed.
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subscribing for when i do mine, great info
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New thread that is starting fresh and it organized.
http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=117548
