Rear Turbos... I know, but it was coming anyway :)

alrighty, found a tuning shop right done the road here in el paso! gonna charge me $495 for a full tune. actually gonna speed density tune it for me! so now i can place my meth injector in the proper place and not mess with the MAF in the tune. So thats a plus.

tryed to get the turbo inlet pipe, turbine/wastage piping welded and installed and the cats replaced with resonators, but the welding shop was too swamped today so monday morning it will be done. then on to the oil system and charge piping with the intercooler which by the way is a PITA.

and the first test fit is a success! got the pieces all welded into place and ready for final installation
http://i535.photobucket.com/albums/e...ps98de1d41.jpg
http://i535.photobucket.com/albums/e...ps963f7780.jpg
http://i535.photobucket.com/albums/e...ps7d3a9ad8.jpg
http://i535.photobucket.com/albums/e...psfb4f18aa.jpg
http://i535.photobucket.com/albums/e...ps506c8e8f.jpg

now to run some oil lines, mount the pump, connect the fuel return system, and run the intercooler and charge piping and we are in business

well in the process of waiting i decided to to some much needed maintainance on my driversside head light motor. got the brass gear replacement. worked out great. was a PITA in some parts to get the motor back in, but all in all pretty easy.
http://i535.photobucket.com/albums/e...ps8f514bdf.jpg
http://i535.photobucket.com/albums/e...ps0da09313.jpg
actaully not that bad. id image the grinding was more of obstructions then these few teeth missing but oh well. save it for if the other one really needs it in an emergency
http://i535.photobucket.com/albums/e...ps6fb5c8d2.jpg

and then just some test fitting, still waiting on the new 2.5" coupler to come in to hook up 2.5" instead of 3".
http://i535.photobucket.com/albums/e...psdbdef285.jpg
http://i535.photobucket.com/albums/e...ps49bd67b5.jpg
http://i535.photobucket.com/albums/e...psa48d7f14.jpg
gotta head up to Las Crusis this weekend for the army, so i had to revert back to stock but gave me an idea on what to do and how to run it. should be pretty easy once i get that damn intercooler in the bumper lol ill do that next week when i get back home. shuold be ready to install and tune it within 2 weeks so as long as the weather dont act up around here. im not driving my car over tot eh shop with a dust storm blowing around.

well i got alot done today! very suprise on the progress i made! if i didnt have to stop and pick up the kids and watch hells kitchen lol i might be able to fire this thing up this evening but tomorrow is another day and im really close to being able to run it without boost to the dyno shop.

So up first was the intercooler install which of course requires removing the bumper... let me tell ya, wasnt a walk in the park with these meaty fingers of mine but i made happen
http://i535.photobucket.com/albums/e...ps9c02b0b6.jpg
http://i535.photobucket.com/albums/e...ps32cf88d1.jpg
http://i535.photobucket.com/albums/e...ps55b78afb.jpg
then mounted the EMUSA 31x11x3 bar and plate intercooler.
http://i535.photobucket.com/albums/e...psadd46ed7.jpg
http://i535.photobucket.com/albums/e...pse9e2677d.jpg
then of course started running charge piping
http://i535.photobucket.com/albums/e...ps8716c9c2.jpg
http://i535.photobucket.com/albums/e...psf7ba7966.jpg
while running the lling pipe, i ran the wastegate reference line and oil pump wiring
http://i535.photobucket.com/albums/e...pse60be00a.jpg
http://i535.photobucket.com/albums/e...ps75f06dc4.jpg
then ran the 4an oil feed and the 10an oil drain lines and set them into place then zipped everything up into place
http://i535.photobucket.com/albums/e...psa1eaacc5.jpg
and the oil pump has been mounted into position and connected to the oil lines for length measuring

also bolted the turbo-back exhaust back up (only way i cen think to call it lol)

tomorrow ill connect everything and maybe run fluids into the fuel and oil lines.

looking good....

god i hate AN fittings and hoses right now lol they look good, but damn my hands hurt right now from piecing together the hose ends to the hoses. OH and by the way, yes the chisel and hammer technique works quite well on the smaller 4an hoses to keep from fraying
So all i have to do now is hook up the oil pump trigger wire to the fuel pump wire and then hook up the feed and return lines to the engine. now i gotta figure out how to tap the oil pan on the car :/ how the hell do i do that with header tubes in the way? im trying to do it on the drivers side but ive got alot of crap in the way there. i might change it up and go on the passeneger side but still not sure.

also have the airfilter tucked up into that cavity. only question is, WTF! is that black box up ther behind the drivers rear tire?! that wasnt there when i looked at simular STS builds.... ill post a pic later of it

also have the BOV and wastegate reference lines completely ready to be hooked up to the vacuum manifold. everything is zipped into place and all i have to do is take out the plugs and put the barb fittings into place which ill do today too.

only thing i need that i dont have is one little 2.5" tbolt clamp i got a regular worm clamp on it for now but ill get that fixed right away before anything happens.




ok, so feed and drain hooked up on engine, oil pump trigger wire, and BOV/wastegate hookups, put the bumper back on, install the injectors, and hookup the return line and we got a turbo car ladys and gentlmen then a tune!!


__________________

and im an idiot lol
so yeah my leaking issue was that i didnt reinstall the oil gasket off the stock oil block onto the new one... so took off the oil block, cleaned off my half ass copper gasket sealant, in placed the stock gasket in there, bolted it down and PRESTO! no more leaky leaky lol hey if thats all the oops i get outta this, then i can live with it lol.

So the car is up and running and ready for a tune, save for installing the MAP and 60lbs injectors. havnt driven it yet but it sounds solid. DAMN the pump is loud. so id image that if it went out that i would know becasue it would get quiet all of a sudden lol plus a plum of smoke probley would be a big indicator.

pretty much i just let it idle while i checked for any leaks. i think i might have one by the pump but im not sure. ill double check in the morning after it cools and has a chance to sit. the old "staring at a pot to boil" thing lol

pretty much just gotta get the bumper on and get the damn thing tuned. i think ill leave the bumper off so i can get it tuned so that i can assess any of the the stuff just incase it needs adjusting or what ever.

I also taped a hole in the charge pipe so that i can put the IAT sensor in there. i just used a grommet and made sure it was tight. the grommet has kinda like a barb design to it so it shouldnt come out. and since most of you have done this without insident im going this route unless it gets poped out, then ill do the typhoon threaded sensor.

cant wait to get ti tuned now :)

heres some extra pics
http://i535.photobucket.com/albums/e...psff780a19.jpg
http://i535.photobucket.com/albums/e...psab078044.jpg

http://i535.photobucket.com/albums/e...psa86c108d.jpg
http://i535.photobucket.com/albums/e...ps70fd3226.jpg
http://i535.photobucket.com/albums/e...ps19c8bf21.jpg
http://i535.photobucket.com/albums/e...ps0e5a21bb.jpg

Looking good.

That sits way too low for my liking though.

yeah im trying to see if i can get it to tuck up higher. im not trying to scrap the oil return line on anything. that would suck!

ug, still trying to trouble shoot the AEM injection system... still giving me issues.. cant seem to get a good 15amp trigger source.

on a good note, i removed the licsens plate area so now its wide open for some fresh air :)
witht he cover on...
http://i535.photobucket.com/albums/e...ps85bddf9a.jpg

... and without :)
http://i535.photobucket.com/albums/e...psc34b5a50.jpg

looks pretty good. without fogs is kinda growing on me, although id still like the option of having them...

I like it!

When is it going to get tuned?

what you going to do for TX law requiring a front plate?


Also here's a thought.......if you still want fog lights get a pair of C6 fog lights, use the spot under the DRL's. They will fit there. Also I've seen C^ fog lamps used to swap out the drl lenses and it looks sharp as Hell.

I plan on doing it at some point this year.

ive actually never been stop for front plates other then in germany where its nationally manditory lol my cars registered still from wisconsin so i could care less lol ill carry the front plate with me just in case but ill just go back to how i use to ride in the states, rear plate only. never actally put my front plate on until i came back to the states from germany. i use to roll with my front liscense plate cover on ever since i bought it in 2005. never had an issue with it.

as for the fog, im gonna figure somthing out. i still would like to get my fogs back on, but for now i can deal with it. i most like the fogs for when im at the track and instead of poping up my parachutes at the end of the track, my fogs are plenty of light to see.

my biggest thing right now is trying to figure out this AEM meth controler. just cant get the trigger wire right.
also its sitting way too low for my liking and i know me being lowered isnt helping, but i know i cna tuck it up more by rotation the compressor

Quote:

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Originally Posted by FasstChevys

I like it!

When is it going to get tuned?

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might be this week, not sure yet

alittle better but i need to turn the hot side too when its not... hot lol
http://i535.photobucket.com/albums/e...psdcb758a2.jpg

one option for the fog light issue - I've seen a lot of FI guys swap over the firebird nose piece. Supposedly it gives a little more room to open up and moves the fog lights under/near the DRL's.

I suppose you could open it up some more to include the surface were the fogs are and totally remove them giving maximum opening.



Dumb question - just how difficult was it to remove the noise piece? I know that unless I can find (A) a truck & trailer to tow to/from (B) a lift that I can use (closest one is at the P-cola Naval Base (45mins)but I like the Biloxi AFB auto shop (1hr20min) more then P-cola because it is inside vs open air like P-cola) then I'll be pulling the block from the top in my garage at home. Looking at it I will give me about 12"-18" more room to get closer and also removes it from getting scratched up even more.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JoshuaGrooms83

alittle better but i need to turn the hot side too when its not... hot lol

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Damn that's low....speed bumps/steep drive ways are going to suck.

for the bumper, its really easy actually its just some tight spots under the car.
-first you gotta take the underbody cover panels off on the two sides, those can be a pain if they have been on the car for as long as mine have lol
-Take all the plastic pop rivets out, 3 up top, and 3 or more below. (again firebird, so im not sure if camaros are EXACTLY the same)
-then pop you head lights up if you have a firebird and then un hook the battery so you dont drain it.
- all the way up underneith these 2 nuts that need to be taken off... not that metal bracket, but actually up against the inside of the bumper itself close to the fenderwell cover. do this on both sides.
-take the 1 small screw ( think its a 7mm) out the top in front next to the head lights, thats why your head lights are up
-now for the PITA, that little space behind the hood bump stop supports you gotta get all the way in there and feel for another 10mm bolt (bolt this time) and unbolt those. they are faceing litterally towards the fron tof the car. the passenger side you can use a few extentions and a universial joint and a 3/8 drill on it to remove it. for the driver side, you gotta get your hand in there. I used a small 3/8 stubby ratchet that helped a ton.
-take out the DRL's and side marker lights out of there light sockets
-pull that sucker off nice and easy and your good. pull the sides first directly up againts the fenders. just make sure you dont pull too hard in case your snagged on somthing. Also the radiator air damn channel underneither will kinda hold you up so it helps to pull the bump from the bottom first.

steep drive ways are ok, but im always cautious on speed bumps. my ypipe has always hits things anyway on the drivers side and thats till the lowest part of the car. however, i still will be carefull on everything. im gonna see if i cant get it tucked up alittle be more

do yourself a favor get about 2 fat guys like me or 3-4 ppl and have them sit in the car to see just how much the body drops. That will give you an idea of how much you need to get it tuck up for clearance.

oh im by no means light lol im 275lbs so weightwise its being tested lol

i do plan to tuck it up more anyway. the front now is alittle lower then id like. im still wondering if i should put the stock spings in the back to get the back up alittle. the long charge pipe is scraping anything that isnt level :( gonna have to give up some of my stance to run this. still gonna see if i can do somthing without changing the springs. im thinking of somhow pushing the turob up a tad by bracing it or somthing. we will see. i drove down the road today off post and it did very well. didnt drag it on anything now that i clocked the compressor.