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Precisely my plan.Quote:
Originally Posted by 10spokess
Filled up the gas tank & washed her yesterday. With this hurricane supposedly bringing snow, I am probably done driving her for the winter. Can anyone tell me how much of the fuel stabilizer to put in. The directions were kind of confusing. Do I just add a whole bottle or should I measure it out?
Do the directions say anything like xx amount of stabilizer to xx gallons of gas? I see that you are from central Ohio, would you happen to know anything about IPS Motorsports as far as tuning goes (opinion, any experience)?
fantastic weather so i took her out on some well paved, windy backroads and punished her...
It said something about that, but I found it confusing & I typically don't get confused too easily. As far as IPS, I talked to a guy at a car show with a nice ws6 & he had a horror story about IPS. Here is a link to his cl ad (he is selling his car) maybe you can text/call him & ask him about them....I think he had such a bad experience he would be happy to tell you all about them.Quote:
Originally Posted by 95cam86roc
http://columbus.craigslist.org/cto/3272047149.html
I did get my ported tb today & slapped it on....hopefully I can take her for a test drive later this week. I think the snow may miss us, which means no salt & extended driving time! :D
just realized that after we sold my wifes car, dropping it off insurance never went through. I made several changes between buying the truck, changing its coverage, dropping her car from full to liability, etc. for like 3 months, my rate was different, so when it leveled out, I didn't think much of it, other than it was higher, lol...i just figured that was because i took a 25 y/o female out of an Alero and put her in a Silverado.
Just got on to see about a windshield deductible, saw an extra vehicle on there...ill be damned...been payin $55 extra for 5 months....
Well, the snow hit, but not too bad. I called the county DOT & they told me they did NOT salt over in my area, so it looks like I get to test out my new tb once the weather shapes up this weekend. WOOHOO!!!! :nana:
Installed new MOOG Tie-Rods on both sides this morning. Old ones were originals @89,000 with HUGE amounts of play in them, causing some pretty bad positive camber. http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...74819118_n.jpg
Also back-flushed the Heater Core, now I actually have Burning HOT air coming out of my vents again, just in time for winter!
Took it to the exhaust shop and then for a ride yesterday. First time in almost a year I got to drive it.
Nice, Golden. I probably need to give mine a once-over before spring time.
Got to test the new ported TB yesterday. Best $100 (I kept my OEM core) I have spent yet. It feels much jumpier at take-off & angrier at WOT. Now, maybe this is just the placebo effect, but I like it nonetheless! :bravo:
how much did those tie rods cost you?
$77.98 for both + Free Shipping on Ebay. Our Local Oreilly's wanted $59 a piece for them.... These also have the Zerks on the bottom so you can grease them.Quote:
Originally Posted by Spikito
very nice...i need to do that
whats a good way to swap those?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spikito
There might be a write up somewhere, but its not hard at all. Some people when they remove the outer tie-rod, count the number of turns it takes to get it off (so you don't mess up your alignment.) I decided to actually measure the distance instead, although it could still use an alignment.. Anyways, Take the wheel off. Take the cotter pin out. Loosen the Castle nut and thread it up but don't take it all the way off. Loosen the lock nut on the actual tie-rod. Then to get the tie-rod ends off, I used a pickle fork and a hammer to drive it out. After it pops loose you take the castle nut off then turn the tie-rod end off. Clean up the threads. (I also put some grease on them so the new ends won't freeze up). Thread the new Tie-rod end on. Tighten all of your nuts up. I believe the Castle cut is somewhere between 35 ft/lbs and 50 max. I just got it "tight tight" and lined up the holes to put the new cotter pin in. Make sure you bend the pin away from moving objects and enough that the castle nut can't back off.
That's kind of a quick summary,
Here's a google pic driving the end out.
http://www.4x4xplor.com/images/front...nt-track08.jpg
hmmm....I was thinking that I did this one time on an old camaro if mine, but maybe not, i don't have a pickle fork
I've changed a few on different cars and trucks, but never used a fork. I always back the nut off and flip it over and then thread it back on until it is just a little higher than the threads on the tie rod. Then use a hammer and bump it out. If you beat on it too hard or don't flip the nut over it can damage the threads or get the nut stuck on the tie rod end. Then when you try to back it off the "bolt" from the tie rod end the "bolt" will just spin. I learned that one the hard way.
But all that said a fork is a better way and most auto parts stores will loan them out with a deposit.
GoldenFlame that was a good deal for the Moog's. I paid the $59/each. :sillyme:
Swapped the radiator in the z28
Previous owner JB Welded a bolt to the side of it
http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/a...1/DSCN3227.jpg
Broke the torque arm Thursday, ordered a new torque arm. $105 used, after shipping from Hawks.
I had a stock one you could of had for cheap. Is the Hawk's one aftermarket or stock? I've never heard of that brand before.