was '08 sm rated or does schaeffer not do the api rating?
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was '08 sm rated or does schaeffer not do the api rating?
Amsoil/Shaeffers/Royal Purple/Red Line et al only pay the API fee on certain products but not all. It doesnt matter much anymore anyway as GM has their own rating system now....
My father used to go with Slick 50 additive in his four cylinder Dodge Spirit. He drove as his job, so it was used all/every day in northern Michigan's sometimes brutal conditions. He changed his oil frequently along with good regular maintenance. The engine saw approx. 500,000 miles before it's demise which was due to accident, not engine failure....I know he used many different oil brands, one of his favorites being Castrol. I was younger and not as interested in oil when he was part of my life (sadly accident took him from us), so I don't know if the oil was synthetic or not. It is my theory that using a variety of different oils can be beneficial, and I am currently testing this theory, without the use of additives though.
P.S. Thanx Sarge, I greatly appreciate your efforts...I love to see people who keep it real and help the rest of us cut through all the propeganda....
I think slick 50 has been taken off the market,the teflon in it didn't do as they claimed.or something like that.
Posted via Mobile Device
slick 50 is sold at O'reilly as of today
So it is,maybe it should have been taken off the market,University of Utah found it actually increased engine wear.
" the same tests concluded that "There was a pressure drop across the oil filter resulting from possible clogging of small passageways." Oil analysis showed that iron contamination doubled after the treatment, indicating that engine wear increased ."
the whole artice...http://www.skepdic.com/slick50.html
With todays SN rated oil I see no benefit anymore to any oil additive being added to a clean running engine. Least of all is Slick50.
Today I was browsing Walmart's section of oil and found it pretty funny...Walmart's brand of oil SuperTech was SN rated, yet many national brands including Castrol, Mobile, and others were not. It may just be an old bottle issue, cuz cheapest always sellz...but it still tickled me...hee, hee....
Hello,
I've seriously been searching through the internet for hours and i'm yet to find what oil i should be putting in my car, could you please help me.
I have an L76 with 96,000k's i thrash it every now and again.
I know you might say "use the search" but could you please just tell me a recommended brand and type.
Thank you
You will be hell bent to ever find a post of mine that said "use the search".......I dont do that and hate it when somebody else does it as they started asking questions once upon a time....they just "forgot"....
I assume this is the aluminum block in a GM 2500 truck? 6.0 Vortec ?
I need you to answer a few questions please.
What oil is in there now?
Do you tow?
What percentage is city driving and what percentage is highway driving?
Where are you at? The desert? The North Pole? :) Need to know.
Do you have any modifications?
What have your oill change intervals been in the past?
Have you ever sent your oil in for analysis?
I see GM recommends 5-30. I need you to answer a few questions so we can better make a recommendation please.
Well many of the major manufacturers are using up the inventory of jugs/bottles that are marked SM. Mobil1 has already publicly stated if your jug says SM and the manufacturer date is after August 2010. You really have SN rated oil in there :) I am sure the others are the same.
Sarge, could you recommend what's the best oil and filter I should run? Right now I'm using amsoil ss0w30 and amsoil filter. Just normal driving and every weekend I do some drag racing. Well right now I want to get into some road racing and the car will see a lot of revs from 3k to 6k for extended periods of time. Could be 30 min sessions and then a break and so on.
This is for a 02' stock LS1 fbody. Only has full exhaust right now but I have plans for a twin turbo setup and keeping the longblock completely untouched.
How does a 'seal conditioner' work? Legend has it that the so-called auto-trans stop-leak & seal conditioner just softened the rubber seals so the would swell for a quick fix. The side effect was that soon afterward, the softened seals would fail and you had a bigger problem than when you started.
Hahaha. :hi:
Thank you for the reply. very thorough.
I assume this is the aluminum block in a GM 2500 truck? 6.0 Vortec ? wait i've got the 6000 6.0L V8 (LS2) without active fuel management though. but for some reason we call them l76???
What oil is in there now? Right now I have Penrite sin 5 in there
Do you tow? No
What percentage is city driving and what percentage is highway driving? Probably 80/20 80% City driving 20% Highway
Where are you at? The desert? The North Pole? Need to know. Australia (Western Australia)
Do you have any modifications? Stock as a rock apart from 2.5” cat back exhaust.
What have your oill change intervals been in the past? Not 100% sure because when I bought the car, from a Holden dealer it “apparently” just had a service, i didn’t trust them because oil looked rather black on the stick. :S I plan on doing it every 5,000km though. coming upto 5000km interval now.
Have you ever sent your oil in for analysis? No but since you mentioned it, it sounds like something worth doing.
I'm not too concerned about the price, and don't mind getting it shipped from the States.
Thanks in advance
Crikey, i've totally confused myself now... lol i don't even know what engine i have. i definitely have the bottom one on this page.
http://www.users.on.net/~nweber/comm.../vz-specs.html
But then on this site
http://forums.finalgear.com/general-...d-in-us-10811/
Im pretty sure i have the 6000 6.0L V8 (LS2)
??