Sarge, From what I have read and heard from others you should not switch to full synthetic on high mileage engines 183,xxx. Is it true that it will do more harm than good?
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Sarge, From what I have read and heard from others you should not switch to full synthetic on high mileage engines 183,xxx. Is it true that it will do more harm than good?
Total and complete internet myth. Bullshit in other words.
Back in the day conventional oils did not have squat for cleaning agents.....Synthetics chemistry had cleaning agents that would clean and cause some issues with debris clogging up oil pickups or causing seals to leak.
Today the add packs (chemistry) is totally different. Any SM or SN API rated synthetic is good at anytime in a cars life cycle.The SM and SN rated conventional oils clean just as much as the synthetics these days. So the issue of a synthetic causing an issue in a high mileage car is no longer valid.
What are you trying to accomplish with a synthetic?
Longer life with fewer problems mainly.
Synthetics excel in high performance/high stress or long oil change interval environments.Quote:
Originally Posted by FMBL
If you stock or mildly modified/ running 3-4K OCI's good ol Pennzoil 5-30 in the yellow bottle API SN rated is perfect.
Thank you. I guess I got two answers out of that.
what is up with this "liquid titanium" i think marketing bullshit.i saw this oil at the flying j truck stop on my way home from work last week,kendall is hard to find even at auto zone/advance/ect. in my area.
http://www.conocophillipslubricants....dall+Motor+Oil
It is just Kendalls GF-5 SN rated stuff.
so sarge you have a number to the guy in STL so I could order some.
Here is the retailer locater
http://www.schaefferoil.com/dealer_locator.html
Can someone explain the new GM standard for oil? I believe it is DEXOS1 or something like that. I heard Pennzoil Ultra is not certified but Pennzoil Platinum is? Is it just a different standard than "SN" or the same?:cold:
GM is following VW/Honda and a few others and have created their own standards. In other words not following API anymore. That's the short of it.
Sure! The new GM dexos1 is more than just a standard, it's both a standard and a special license. While the auto manufactures have had their own motor oil standards, e.g., GM 4718M, Ford WSS-M2C929-A, and Chrysler MS-6395N to name a few, the new GM dexos1 standard takes it a step further by creating a special license, licensing fees, licensing logo, etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by SSTODD
So in order for an oil manufacture to get on the official GM dexos1 approval list, receive the official licensing, and dexos1 logo, they have to pay General Motors a licensing fee and royalty fees based on gallons sold.
Mobil and Shell are a couple of majors who have embraced GMs official dexos1 licensing probably due in part to keep their vendor status.
Castrol, ConocoPhillips, Valvoline, and Amsoil are a few of the brands who have said NO to GMs dexos1 licensing, but manufacturer products that meet or exceed the dexos1 standards.
dexos1 is interesting because oils meeting the dexos1 standard are Group III Full Synthetic and ALL 2011 GM vehicles come factory fill with dexos1 and are required to use dexos1 motor oil at each oil change. So ALL new GM vehicles are supposed to run full synthetic motor oil now (no more conventional oil).
dexos1 is good because the specification boosts the oil performance in Volatility, Engine Sludge Protection, Piston Cleanliness, and Turbocharger Protection beyond that of regular API (SN) and ILSAC (GF-5) standards.
Click on this LINK
dexos1 is bad because gray area fine print have some consumers believing that they must buy officially licensed dexos1 motor oil in order to meet the requirements of their new vehicle warranty, which is simply not the case.
Hope this helps,
CompSyn
I was looking at trying Schaeffers 7000 10W-30 synthetic in my SS (had been using mobil) so I went online and the only 10W-30 I see states something about diesel: "0711-012 12 qt/cs (12X1 QUART CASES) SUPREME 7000 DIESEL 10W-30"
Is this the right stuff to order? I know there are different oil requirements for diesel and gas, that's why I want to double check.
Scroll down to the 5-30. That is what you want.
http://www.schaefferoil.com/supreme_9000.html
Thanks Sarge!Quote:
Originally Posted by Sarge
You know folks....some basic Oil 101 here.....
Two things people do....based on myth and internet bullshit that makes me crazy....well that and liberals make me crazy....anyway....
As their motor wears and uses oil....they start moving up the viscosity range. From 5-30 to 5-40. Without going into a boatload of tribology I will just say a 5-20 weight oil would work better in a worn motor as far as reducing oil consumption. Stop it. Don't add viscosity thinking your going to burn less oil. Either use a quality oil with a stout add pack. Seal conditioners and cleaning agents work much better than thick oil. Amsoil/Pennzoil Synthetics/Shaeffer/Castrol Edge/Mobil1 ......or the High Mileage oils have increased cleaning agents and seal conditioner. But stay within your engine spec oil viscosity. Lubricates better also. You may see a reduction in oil burning by going with a higher viscosity oil due it thickness. Sure. You also are expediting yet more wear as the thicker oil cannot get into tight spots to lube properly. Stop it.
Secondly is hot or cold ambient temps and oil viscosity. As our friend here asked about hot weather lets talk about that for a second. Three things are working to remove heat. 1. Engine coolant system. 2. Oil. 3. Exhaust and of course 4 would be just plain old heat radiation under the hood. When you throw in a higher viscosity oil you are making it more difficult for the thicker oil to carry off heat as it doesn't flow like a thinner oil. And do not confuse pressure with flow guys.
I have always ran what the manufacturer calls for (5w30) in my vehicles regardless of mileage.I am glad you are educating the masses on motor oil,lots of misconceptions with weights and synthetics.got some Mobil clean 5000 and a pf47e for the Monte Carlo,time to get dirty.:)
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I just bought my car and when looking through the service records (every oil change is in there) it shows early on the original owner used 5W30 synthetic for the first 2 years then 10W30 synthetic for 3 years and then back to 5W30 synthetic since. I did see the owners manual shows 5W30 was preferred for all temperatures while 10W30 was for above 0F driving.
I too normally always stick to the manufacturer’s recommendation although to be honest, when I first looked in the manual I saw the chart for the V6 which shows 10W30 is preferred which started me down the wrong path. All is good now.
Does schaeffer have any significant amount of zinc? Trying to avoid thick race oils, ordering oil, or an expensive roller cam setup in the future. My current setup has no lift or spring pressure, so it should live forever on normal oil
Yup...
Virgin Oil Analysis of Shaeffers 5-30
Oil Schaeffer 7000 5W-30
Filter N/A
Make up oil N/A
Oil Miles 0
Sample Date 02/06/08
Elements
FE 1
CR 0
PB 0
CU 0
SN 0
AL 0
NI 0
AG 0
SI 9
B 16
NA 2
MG 17
CA 2039
BA 0
P 999
Z 1091
MO 352
TI 0
V 0
K 0