What did you do with your Trans Am today?

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Originally Posted by SMWS6TA

Where did you get the new leather for the seats?

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Its real leather not like the original covers leather inserts and the rest synthetic leather. Feels a lot nicer. I got them from 6LE during one of their sales last year. Back seats look great. Front seats are meh but another guy on tech told me to let it sit in the sun for a few weeks and it will tighten up. Ive been using steam to try to accelerate it like most shops do. Hope it works. What slowed me down was the fitment issues I had and sending them back to get looked at. Problem that created was the seat sat for a couple months and I forgot how it all went together. One thing led to another and it sat until just recently when I finally decided to just mess around with it till I figured it out. Plus took the driver side out so I could reference that too. Everything is made exactly like the original covers except for they make it without the plastic side bolster. My personal feeling on these is that they scrimped on material on the sides to save money. If you look online the picture they show is different than what you will receive when it comes to the sides of the seat cover. This is after going back and forth with them. The guy over on tech had the same issues I did. Mark from 6LE did get their guy who makes the covers to double check them for me but at this point i would have just preferred the side pieces to be left in the design as they would have looked better then what it does now. Don't get me wrong they look good and all and most people wouldn't notice it but i'm just too damn picky for my own good.

Don't have pics of mine yet but these are from the guy over on tech after he finished his and it sat in the sun for a few weeks. Mine are black with grey inserts and fire bird emblems embroidered in the headrests and the middle of the back seat in thread to match the inserts. As soon as I get it all done and reassembled Ill post pictrues


http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/e...3/IMG_1096.jpg

This is something I've been thinking about doing at least to my driver's seat (it's showing it's age, for sure). The other seats scarcely see any use at all and look nearly new.

Those look nice. I'm also in the process of researching leather reupholstering of my seats. The leather is not torn at all but the quality is crap and the Katzkin leather looks so nice. One shop here doesn't really want to do it now during his busy season but quoted me 1500 for the two fronts. I have another shop, who uses Katzkin and does embroidery also. He's around 1899 for the fronts and back but I need to bring the car in so he can give me a better quote. I know the leather is available on a vendor (not sure if a sponsor) for $1,059. I'm hesitant to do it myself; while I'm mechanically adept and do most of my work, I dont know if I can do this type of "fine" work so willing to let someone professional do it in order to get a nice result.

So I've dubbed my TA DemonBird and thus plan on replacing the trans am door emblems with DemonBird 3D printed similar to this font. I just need to find someone to do it.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...509f39d0d0.jpg


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Here is a pic of the rear seat. Its been in the car since last May. You can partially see the passenger seat. Still got to finish a few small details with attaching the back panel completely but wanted to get it in the car outside so I could really see what it would look like to so I could see what still needed to be adjusted. Its just loosely bolted down right now to keep it from falling backwards. Really they are a decent item. The fact that they changed the design without updating their site to reflect is what irritated me the most. I really like that side bolster style they use in the pics. There are a couple other things. The seats you see above had some foam added to help fill out the bottom of the seat. Especially at the front. So because I haven't done that mine look fine when no one is sitting in them just a little flat but when you do they collapse some. They no longer have the original seat covers they designed and go off a blue print they made. Which makes me think this is where areas with too little material and others with too much arise.

http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/e...310_114017.jpg

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Originally Posted by raynor139

Here is a pic of the rear seat. Its been in the car since last May. You can partially see the passenger seat. Still got to finish a few small details with attaching the back panel completely but wanted to get it in the car outside so I could really see what it would look like to so I could see what still needed to be adjusted. Its just loosely bolted down right now to keep it from falling backwards. Really they are a decent item. The fact that they changed the design without updating their site to reflect is what irritated me the most. I really like that side bolster style they use in the pics. There are a couple other things. The seats you see above had some foam added to help fill out the bottom of the seat. Especially at the front. So because I haven't done that mine look fine when no one is sitting in them just a little flat but when you do they collapse some. They no longer have the original seat covers they designed and go off a blue print they made. Which makes me think this is where areas with too little material and others with too much arise.

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I am on the same boat as the rest of you guy but I need to find a new drivers bottom seat cushion. Even after having extra foam added in my old cushion, I have no support when going around corners.

I have seen new cushion sets available for 93-97's but none for 98-02's.

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Originally Posted by 98TransAmWs-6

So I've dubbed my TA DemonBird and thus plan on replacing the trans am door emblems with DemonBird 3D printed similar to this font. I just need to find someone to do it.



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So I wonder if I can get the same font done for "Gracie" ��

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Originally Posted by Whamhammer

I am on the same boat as the rest of you guy but I need to find a new drivers bottom seat cushion. Even after having extra foam added in my old cushion, I have no support when going around corners.

I have seen new cushion sets available for 93-97's but none for 98-02's.

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Yeah about the only option right now is getting an upholstery shop to remake the foam cushion. Our cars are at that fun age where there just isn't a lot of replacement stuff yet except for leftover NOS. I figure another 5-10 years before we really get to start seeing a lot assuming there are enough 4th gen f-bodies left on the road to make it worth companies time.

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Originally Posted by raynor139

Yeah about the only option right now is getting an upholstery shop to remake the foam cushion. Our cars are at that fun age where there just isn't a lot of replacement stuff yet except for leftover NOS. I figure another 5-10 years before we really get to start seeing a lot assuming there are enough 4th gen f-bodies left on the road to make it worth companies time.

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Well, there seems to be plenty of stuff available for the 1st and 2nd gen F-bods, so I would think that these 4th gens should have a pretty nice sized after-market. I would really like to have my seats redone from the inside out (new foam, modified seat bolsters so that they actually hug the occupant and provide real support, etc, etc).

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Originally Posted by raynor139

Yeah about the only option right now is getting an upholstery shop to remake the foam cushion. Our cars are at that fun age where there just isn't a lot of replacement stuff yet except for leftover NOS. I figure another 5-10 years before we really get to start seeing a lot assuming there are enough 4th gen f-bodies left on the road to make it worth companies time.

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What is really weird, to me, is that the seat bottom cushion for the 93-97's look exactly the same as what is on the 98-02's but I haven't seen any references to it, at all.

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Originally Posted by raynor139

Yeah about the only option right now is getting an upholstery shop to remake the foam cushion. Our cars are at that fun age where there just isn't a lot of replacement stuff yet except for leftover NOS. I figure another 5-10 years before we really get to start seeing a lot assuming there are enough 4th gen f-bodies left on the road to make it worth companies time.

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What is really weird, to me, is that the seat bottom cushion for the 93-97's look exactly the same as what is on the 98-02's but I haven't seen any references to it, at all.

This is what Emblem Pros will be making for me. I think I'm going to get decals made for the filler in the back as well to match.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a690de7238.jpg

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I'm in same boat with '95 Subaru... too old for OEM foam pads anywhere except some dicey, dodgey looking links in Eastern Russsia, and too new to have the retro-makers. Can find a seat at junkyard sites and just harvest the cushion. Guy offered me a full seat for $100, but I could have bid him down to $50 I think as just after cushion. Check online junkyards for low mileage seats of ame year/F-body. I think I searched on LKQ or some site, as well as ebay and Amazon.

My damn dash cracked and not on the pad, that's been cracked. It's the actual dash that the instrument cluster mounts too. Not going to pay $800. Going to look in the junk yards and pray I find one in good condition.

It royally pisses me off because I just got the interior looking the way I wanted and that happens. :bat:

Ordered (eventual) replacement Continental Extreme Contact DW 285-40-17's for the 2 1/2 year old ones on "Gracie" this weekend, they were on clearance sale at Tire Rack for 108.00 each.

When do they show up? Right after getting six inches of snow.

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Ordered (eventual) replacement Continental Extreme Contact DW 285-40-17's for the 2 1/2 year old ones on "Gracie" this weekend, they were on clearance sale at Tire Rack for 108.00 each.

When do they show up? Right after getting six inches of snow.

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Ordered (eventual) replacement Continental Extreme Contact DW 285-40-17's for the 2 1/2 year old ones on "Gracie" this weekend, they were on clearance sale at Tire Rack for 108.00 each.

When do they show up? Right after getting six inches of snow.

I ordered that metal shift boot ring from 6LE to replace my broken plastic one that was broke when I bought the car... always wanted to get it fixed but other stuff took priority... now it will be one little line scratched off my list.

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Originally Posted by Naaman

I ordered that metal shift boot ring from 6LE to replace my broken plastic one that was broke when I bought the car... always wanted to get it fixed but other stuff took priority... now it will be one little line scratched off my list.

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That's another item in a long list of stuff that should have come from GM.


Got mine like 6 yrs ago. So worth it.

Knock on injection molded plastic... only interior pieces in our car that have broken are the driver side door panel and driver side seatbelt loop on the side of the seat.

I bought a new Red top Optima, since I do not drive my 2000 WS6. She is sitting on 42,xxx...

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Originally Posted by pajeff02

Knock on injection molded plastic... only interior pieces in our car that have broken are the driver side door panel and driver side seatbelt loop on the side of the seat.

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Same thing on mine except both door panels !

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Originally Posted by screamin chicken

I bought a new Red top Optima, since I do not drive my 2000 WS6. She is sitting on 42,xxx...

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Those Optima batteries don't hold up well in my experiences (and many of my friends experiences). Keep it on a trickle charge while it's in extended storage and hold on to your receipt so you can get it warranty replaced if it fails on you

so sorry, Bro. For those of us still uncracked... is there a good trick to keep dash uncracked? Any ArmorAll or other stuff better than others... is this from lots of flexing with no subframe connector, or bushings drying out and hardening where dash connects (guessing?), etc.?

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Originally Posted by SMWS6TA

My damn dash cracked and not on the pad, that's been cracked. It's the actual dash that the instrument cluster mounts too. Not going to pay $800. Going to look in the junk yards and pray I find one in good condition.

It royally pisses me off because I just got the interior looking the way I wanted and that happens. :bat:

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I would say it's just that my car is 19 yrs old. Plastic is not forever as the Greenies would make you believe. Hell even Ferrari's and Lambo's suffer from plastic aging as well. You look at any 80's to 90's car and you see they have issues with dash, etc.

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I would say it's just that my car is 19 yrs old. Plastic is not forever as the Greenies would make you believe. Hell even Ferrari's and Lambo's suffer from plastic aging as well. You look at any 80's to 90's car and you see they have issues with dash, etc.

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Originally Posted by SMWS6TA

I would say it's just that my car is 19 yrs old. Plastic is not forever as the Greenies would make you believe. Hell even Ferrari's and Lambo's suffer from plastic aging as well. You look at any 80's to 90's car and you see they have issues with dash, etc.

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I would say it's just that my car is 19 yrs old. Plastic is not forever as the Greenies would make you believe. Hell even Ferrari's and Lambo's suffer from plastic aging as well. You look at any 80's to 90's car and you see they have issues with dash, etc.

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I have the top-dash with a crack, small cracks on the doors (caught, and fixed them in time before they went nuts), one of the vent vanes (replaced with a used on, and fixed the broken one for use later). I do have to reconnect the center console just below the cup holder (barely would notice). I think that's about it, unless the letters on the cruise control being smudges and partially missing counts.

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Originally Posted by SMWS6TA

I would say it's just that my car is 19 yrs old. Plastic is not forever as the Greenies would make you believe. Hell even Ferrari's and Lambo's suffer from plastic aging as well. You look at any 80's to 90's car and you see they have issues with dash, etc.

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I would say it's just that my car is 19 yrs old. Plastic is not forever as the Greenies would make you believe. Hell even Ferrari's and Lambo's suffer from plastic aging as well. You look at any 80's to 90's car and you see they have issues with dash, etc.

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I have the top-dash with a crack, small cracks on the doors (caught, and fixed them in time before they went nuts), one of the vent vanes (replaced with a used on, and fixed the broken one for use later). I do have to reconnect the center console just below the cup holder (barely would notice). I think that's about it, unless the letters on the cruise control being smudges and partially missing counts.

Pretty sure when I get back to the states I am going to put Coil overs on my car and give that a shot, I have a whole laundry list of parts I want to get over the next year or so but I figure I will start with suspension.

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Originally Posted by BobbyGFirebird

so sorry, Bro. For those of us still uncracked... is there a good trick to keep dash uncracked? Any ArmorAll or other stuff better than others... is this from lots of flexing with no subframe connector, or bushings drying out and hardening where dash connects (guessing?), etc.?

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I have read that plastic can be restored to it's original flexibility by soaking it in boiling water for a few minutes (hours?). With something like a dash pad, which is awkward to put in any kind of container, let alone find something in which to boil the water that will fit it, the same source mentioned that you can just use cold water, but you have to let it soak longer (like, 24 hours).

Somehow, the heat realigns the molecules or excites them a bit or some such... :thinkin:

I can't find the forum now, but it was a couple of chemists going back and forth (agreeing with each other) on soaking the plastic to keep it "new."

I hope I am not speaking too soon but so far my dash is in pristine shape...The car has been garaged since it came home brand spankin new from the dealership in December of 2001... And I try not to park it in the direct sun ( which is hard in Cali) I'm sure that has loads to do with it since the exposure to the sun is a killer on plastic and dashes in general....Well actually anything for that matter!!! Sun is bad.... On my Datsun 280 Z cars that had cracked dashes...One had this harder plastic ...What I would call a coverlet....It was molded to fit the deck of the dash ,but just on the top,It was a great idea and looked okay too! I bought the car like that so I don't know where they bought it from...Then they had those felt like thingy`s you can have custom embroidered you stick on with velcro to hide or protect the dash

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1ae47f7348.jpg

Got my emblems in today from Emblem pros. These will be replacing the door emblems.

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Want opinions. So ultimately my car is going to be snakeskin green and carbon fiber top spoiler wheels mirrors and maybe hood as well as emblems and I am trying to decide if I should get the emblems dipped do now or keep it stainless for now until paint.

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Originally Posted by 98TransAmWs-6

Want opinions. So ultimately my car is going to be snakeskin green and carbon fiber top spoiler wheels mirrors and maybe hood as well as emblems and I am trying to decide if I should get the emblems dipped do now or keep it stainless for now until paint.

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Dipped in what?

Carbon fiber

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Originally Posted by 98TransAmWs-6

Carbon fiber

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Will it be even noticeable??

When I paint the car and will be like I said snakeskin green but I'm trying to figure out what to do now. Maybe I'll just paint it snakeskin for now since my car is black with snakeskin green accents right now. Then I'll strip and dip it once I paint.

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23.97 mpg!

the guy I bought my T/Am '99 from put Conti's on the WS6 (I would have gone GYear) but I really like them. Hard to describe, but they have a "mature" manner.... not too harsh or firm on daily driving, but very confident and true when you push her a bit in twisties with spirited ups/downs/side to sides as we have I. old New England roads.... They are NICE !

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Originally Posted by BobbyGFirebird

the guy I bought my T/Am '99 from put Conti's on the WS6 (I would have gone GYear) but I really like them. Hard to describe, but they have a "mature" manner.... not too harsh or firm on daily driving, but very confident and true when you push her a bit in twisties with spirited ups/downs/side to sides as we have I. old New England roads.... They are NICE !

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Are they ExtremeContact DW tires? I am about to out my second (and final) set of 285/40/17s on my WS6. They are getting discontinued for I think it's called ExtremeContact Sport. Very similar tread patter but a little more aggressive.

Drove by an 88 Fiero with its engine compartment engulfed in flames about 1/8 miles past the express lane split off on Northbound 95 tonight ( before the topmost 695 exit), pretty sad.

Got some new toys for the ole bird. Just waiting for those 243 heads to come back from TEA with their stage 2 porting service.

http://www.red2kta.com/carblog/wp-co...017/04/Cam.jpg

http://www.red2kta.com/carblog/wp-co...318_052138.jpg

http://www.red2kta.com/carblog/wp-co.../Springs-2.jpg

http://www.red2kta.com/carblog/wp-co.../Lifters-3.jpg

http://www.red2kta.com/carblog/wp-co...Combustion.jpg

Been going crazy with the "heim joint" popping noise but haven't figured out another local shop to go to that would have a clue when they would see a Heim joint on an Fcar suspension. :(

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Originally Posted by Decadence75

Got some new toys for the ole bird. Just waiting for those 243 heads to come back from TEA with their stage 2 porting service.

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Where you get the 243's from?

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Originally Posted by Whamhammer

Where you get the 243's from?

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Picked them up from someone on tech.

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Originally Posted by Decadence75

Picked them up from someone on tech.

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"Tech"?

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Originally Posted by Whamhammer

"Tech"?

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Ls1tech.com

Having a big debate with it on ordering a Trufiber hood that is available now or waiting 9 weeks on a VFN hood....

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Originally Posted by hardtrailz

Having a big debate with it on ordering a Trufiber hood that is available now or waiting 9 weeks on a VFN hood....

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My vfn fits great out of the box barely any work needed.

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Also VFN say it can take up to that long to make the hood but I got mine in 4 weeks. Customer service wise they were great to work with.

Good to hear. Willing to wait cause the car won't ever be sold and i want quality at whatever price.

Same here on not for sale.


At lunch today had a "dealer" make an offer of $2k for my bird as I was leaving the resturant. At 1st I wasn't sure if he was serious or just insulting me. My reply was that doesn't even cover my wheels and tires, hell my intake costs $1200. Then I get the "I'm a dealer and I know the real value of these cars." Oh really....obviously you don't, I know she may be ugly right now but pretty doesn't win races. Engine wise I have about $6k, rear end $2k, another $2k in my transmission. That's not even counting the body of the car. So Thank you but she's never for sale.

Yeah we've hit that magical age of ultra low balling by people. They aren't old enough to be classics yet but they aren't new enough to command good money unless you have an immaculate garage queen. My mom told me to sell mine to pay for a new Camaro. I laughed and told her with what money. It's an 02 with a 115k on it very few people will realize what kind of money I have into the car with all its mods. I know I'll never see what I have into it so I'm perfectly happy to keep it an enjoy it.

$2k... WTF!? Must work at a Honda dealership.

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Originally Posted by pajeff02

$2k... WTF!? Must work at a Honda dealership.

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Lol that's what I was thinking. $2k covers almost nothing on my car lol. Engine alone costs....lost count at 5X that lol. Heads cost more than $2k same with wheels and tires. Hell my brakes cost almost half that alone lmao [emoji23] [emoji23]

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The worst thing about the dealerships is they will buy it for $2k. Put it on the lot for $10K hoping to get something close to that figure.
They will sell it to someone and make 3x over what they paid for it. Then the finance company will cut them a check for using there service.
:shitstorm:

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Originally Posted by initechpeter

The worst thing about the dealerships is they will buy it for $2k. Put it on the lot for $10K hoping to get something close to that figure.
They will sell it to someone and make 3x over what they paid for it. Then the finance company will cut them a check for using there service.
:shitstorm:

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Well, there are in the business to make money. Buy low, sell high. The general public just has to walk in with that in mind.

Thinking it will be the Smoothie hood. Emailed a couple questions to VFN

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Originally Posted by 98TransAmWs-6

My vfn fits great out of the box barely any work needed.

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Originally Posted by SMWS6TA

Also VFN say it can take up to that long to make the hood but I got mine in 4 weeks. Customer service wise they were great to work with.

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Glad to hear that as I eventually want to order a WSQ hood for my bird when it's in the cosmetic budget. (hah, cosmetics, right!) The funny thing is that 6LE is selling the VFN hoods and saying 10 weeks production time. If 6LE holds true to their normal procedure that will turn into 6 months or more. It tool me 6 months or so to get my sail panel they said would ship within 2 weeks.

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Originally Posted by SMWS6TA

Same here on not for sale.


At lunch today had a "dealer" make an offer of $2k for my bird as I was leaving the resturant. At 1st I wasn't sure if he was serious or just insulting me. My reply was that doesn't even cover my wheels and tires, hell my intake costs $1200. Then I get the "I'm a dealer and I know the real value of these cars." Oh really....obviously you don't, I know she may be ugly right now but pretty doesn't win races. Engine wise I have about $6k, rear end $2k, another $2k in my transmission. That's not even counting the body of the car. So Thank you but she's never for sale.

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That is just insane. Mine is by no means a queen with over 150K on the clock and I wouldn't even dream of letting her go for less than 5 times that. Like you say, I have that much in the wheels & tires. I have probably put over twice into the car than I paid for it. This is a car I don't ever plan on getting rid of. She might not be the prettiest on the block but she does turn all the heads every time she thumps past.

I'd buy straight from vfn as you can specific things. For example I had the extractors opened up to be functional for my wsq.

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Originally Posted by 98TransAmWs-6

I'd buy straight from vfn as you can specific things. For example I had the extractors opened up to be functional for my wsq.

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Oh I plan to. I didn't know you could request things like making the vents functional though. I was under the impression that they were already functional. That is good information to know. Thanks!

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Originally Posted by Decadence75

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Originally Posted by 98TransAmWs-6

I'd buy straight from vfn as you can specific things. For example I had the extractors opened up to be functional for my wsq.

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Oh I plan to. I didn't know you could request things like making the vents functional though. I was under the impression that they were already functional. That is good information to know. Thanks!

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I also did this plus had them make it a 4" rise instead of 3" (the usual on) WSQ.

Only one issue I have is with the 104 airlid and the WS6 bottom tray. It is still rubbing against the hood. Not sure what to do. I think after paint I'll put on some felt material on the hood to keep contact from scratching the paint.

Good article in Road & Track this month on the Camaro V6 Track package "1LE" code. It has very similar performance #'s to my '99 T/Am WS6 Hurst 6-speed. I'm not selling my T/Am, but might trade in my aging Subie for a 1LE with side-air bags and other modern touches / safety.

cost? never a consideration. EVERY time i walk into my garage and see that black and chrome beauty.... well, there are no words!!

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Originally Posted by DADCRUISER

cost? never a consideration. EVERY time i walk into my garage and see that black and chrome beauty.... well, there are no words!!

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Well, then, the next time you are in your garage, think about giving me a few thousand dollars 😜

The weather's been so nice the last couple days I drove it to work. Blastin' down I95 today, went to change lanes and put the blinker on -- steady green arrow ! GRRRR !! I have a splitter from 6LE on the front which makes getting to that little bugger HELL. I'll tackle it when I get home tomorrow. 100 MPH with the tops off makes for an interesting ride !!! yeeeha

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Originally Posted by TransAmTerry

The weather's been so nice the last couple days I drove it to work. Blastin' down I95 today, went to change lanes and put the blinker on -- steady green arrow ! GRRRR !! I have a splitter from 6LE on the front which makes getting to that little bugger HELL. I'll tackle it when I get home tomorrow. 100 MPH with the tops off makes for an interesting ride !!! yeeeha

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Try going in through the hole directly below the front turn signal, I used to it all the time. Check to see if the lens isn't split down the middle, vertically, I put some packing tape on the front of mine, until I use the new set I bought, after I get some body/paint work done, eventually.

I am about to prove the TAs versitality, yet again, buy picking up a new 50 inch TV in it.

Size is everything....

:nana:

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Originally Posted by speedyWS6

Size is everything....

:nana:

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Budget was the driver on this buy, $299.00 for a 50 inch 1080 dpi/60hz non smart TV (at have a computer plugged into it anyways. The old one I have loses the left half of the screen even until it warms up and I bump the TV.

Found I could have easily fit up to a 70 inch in the hatch, back seats with sour removing the baby seat and folding the seat down.

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Originally Posted by Whamhammer

Try going in through the hole directly below the front turn signal, I used to it all the time. Check to see if the lens isn't split down the middle, vertically, I put some packing tape on the front of mine, until I use the new set I bought, after I get some body/paint work done, eventually.

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I got off work this morning and on my way up I-95 -minding my own business ,, this silver Camaro with 2 black stripes down the hood pulls along side me -- well, you can tell he wants to GO so I grab 4th from 70 and sling past him maybe 5 or 6 car lengths then he walks me pretty bad . .now he's 5 or 6 car lengths in front !! OBVIOUSLY he's got way more motor than stock and it sounds NASTY. I look down ever so briefly at my speedo and see 145 mph ( glad I had the tops on!). Sunday morning on 95 - what can I say ?! I think I've seen him around before; I'd love to know what his setup is ! -- Anyway, I get home and pull in the garage and start on the R. DRL/ blinker. I've done some work on them in the past to fix the heat/ moisture problems they have and was hoping I wouldn't find another damp and fried socket. Luckily, everything looked perfect. It was just a bad bulb. I accessed it by flipping the headlight up, removing the plastic frame around the lights and sticking my hand down through there. It works great and gives you lots of room- more than the vent beneath. Sorry, got a little long winded.

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Originally Posted by Whamhammer

Budget was the driver on this buy, $299.00 for a 50 inch 1080 dpi/60hz non smart TV (at have a computer plugged into it anyways. The old one I have loses the left half of the screen even until it warms up and I bump the TV.

Found I could have easily fit up to a 70 inch in the hatch, back seats with sour removing the baby seat and folding the seat down.

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Surprised you didn't go 4K since they are at a similar price point.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TransAmTerry

I got off work this morning and on my way up I-95 -minding my own business ,, this silver Camaro with 2 black stripes down the hood pulls along side me -- well, you can tell he wants to GO so I grab 4th from 70 and sling past him maybe 5 or 6 car lengths then he walks me pretty bad . .now he's 5 or 6 car lengths in front !! OBVIOUSLY he's got way more motor than stock and it sounds NASTY. I look down ever so briefly at my speedo and see 145 mph ( glad I had the tops on!). Sunday morning on 95 - what can I say ?! I think I've seen him around before; I'd love to know what his setup is ! -- Anyway, I get home and pull in the garage and start on the R. DRL/ blinker. I've done some work on them in the past to fix the heat/ moisture problems they have and was hoping I wouldn't find another damp and fried socket. Luckily, everything looked perfect. It was just a bad bulb. I accessed it by flipping the headlight up, removing the plastic frame around the lights and sticking my hand down through there. It works great and gives you lots of room- more than the vent beneath. Sorry, got a little long winded.

---

As for running, I think that is alot of driver mod. I once had a an LS3 swapped camero lose to my little cam ls1. As for the blinkers, I would advise just getting new housings and putting LEDs in them. I have had zero trouble since doing that.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TransAmTerry

I got off work this morning and on my way up I-95 -minding my own business ,, this silver Camaro with 2 black stripes down the hood pulls along side me -- well, you can tell he wants to GO so I grab 4th from 70 and sling past him maybe 5 or 6 car lengths then he walks me pretty bad . .now he's 5 or 6 car lengths in front !! OBVIOUSLY he's got way more motor than stock and it sounds NASTY. I look down ever so briefly at my speedo and see 145 mph ( glad I had the tops on!). Sunday morning on 95 - what can I say ?! I think I've seen him around before; I'd love to know what his setup is ! -- Anyway, I get home and pull in the garage and start on the R. DRL/ blinker. I've done some work on them in the past to fix the heat/ moisture problems they have and was hoping I wouldn't find another damp and fried socket. Luckily, everything looked perfect. It was just a bad bulb. I accessed it by flipping the headlight up, removing the plastic frame around the lights and sticking my hand down through there. It works great and gives you lots of room- more than the vent beneath. Sorry, got a little long winded.

---

Next time take a 1/8" drill and drill a hole on the bottom side of the housing. I've done it to them and my rear lights and have yet to have any moisture build up since. It lets the water drain off. On the back lights if the water stands, over time you'll lose your reflective chrome on the inside and the only way to fix it is you either carefully take it apart and rechrome it or get a new light.

I bought a Trans Am today for the Wifey. Pick it up Thursday. I'd say I'm now TransAmTerry...but that name seems to be taken :lol:

Info I know off the top of my head...it's a 2001 NBM WS6, 92k miles, Torquer V2 cam, TSP LTs and custom quad tipped exhaust (he added some sort of resonators to kill some drone), Racetronix fuel pump, Yank 3000 converter, 362/366 on a dynojet, and he's pulling his staggered TTII's from his other T/A to sweeten the deal. He has paperwork for everything he's done to it, so I'll get the deeper details when we pick it up.

Check for chicken pox and door panel cracks.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SMWS6TA

Check for chicken pox and door panel cracks.

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No chicken pox. Driver door has the dreaded crack. But looking at the car overall, that's a minor issue.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Decadence75

Surprised you didn't go 4K since they are at a similar price point.

---

$299 for a NEW 50 inch 4K TV? Where did you see that? I have yet to see on that low.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by SMWS6TA

Next time take a 1/8" drill and drill a hole on the bottom side of the housing. I've done it to them and my rear lights and have yet to have any moisture build up since. It lets the water drain off. On the back lights if the water stands, over time you'll lose your reflective chrome on the inside and the only way to fix it is you either carefully take it apart and rechrome it or get a new light.

---

There are 2 threads out there that I had a lot to say about; one about the DRL's and one about our taillights . I'm pretty sure I'm the one who came up with the drill holes in the DRL's and taillights (at least that I know of ) and that was a few or more years ago. My recent burned out bulb is the first problem I've had since then. Tail lights have been problem free. Agreed with reflective "chrome" on the backing. I fixed mine and they look OEM. It's cool that we've both had the same idea though !

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Y2KArcticSS

I bought a Trans Am today for the Wifey. Pick it up Thursday. I'd say I'm now TransAmTerry...but that name seems to be taken :lol:

Info I know off the top of my head...it's a 2001 NBM WS6, 92k miles, Torquer V2 cam, TSP LTs and custom quad tipped exhaust (he added some sort of resonators to kill some drone), Racetronix fuel pump, Yank 3000 converter, 362/366 on a dynojet, and he's pulling his staggered TTII's from his other T/A to sweeten the deal. He has paperwork for everything he's done to it, so I'll get the deeper details when we pick it up.

---

Sorry Terry,, TransAmTerry is mine ;-)! Sounds like you're getting her a sweet ride.!! A wife with a passion for cool cars is a good find as well . Looking forward to the ' deeper details '. ya don't see too many Navy Blue Metalics - at least around here. Lots of black and silver though.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Decadence75

As for running, I think that is alot of driver mod. I once had a an LS3 swapped camero lose to my little cam ls1. As for the blinkers, I would advise just getting new housings and putting LEDs in them. I have had zero trouble since doing that.

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I disagree.. I'm stock internals, see signature for mods .... I'm sure he's heavily modified just from how it sounded and how he walked me. I know how to get the most outta my ride. it's cool though, just makes me want to mod mine even more. He's local so I'm sure I'll run into him again.

Started the annual heavy detailing today. Always funny how people are surprised by just how many detailing products there are out there.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TransAmTerry

There are 2 threads out there that I had a lot to say about; one about the DRL's and one about our taillights . I'm pretty sure I'm the one who came up with the drill holes in the DRL's and taillights (at least that I know of ) and that was a few or more years ago. My recent burned out bulb is the first problem I've had since then. Tail lights have been problem free. Agreed with reflective "chrome" on the backing. I fixed mine and they look OEM. It's cool that we've both had the same idea though !

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For the DRLs, check for a vertical hairline crack in the lens right down the middle. I have had two lens split there, right on the manufactured "grid" line.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Whamhammer

$299 for a NEW 50 inch 4K TV? Where did you see that? I have yet to see on that low.

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At the time I replied, Sam's was having a sale where there was probably a 30-50 buck difference. Right now they are about $400 for a Hitachi 50" 4K, so about $100 more since the sale ended. I recently upgraded my old 47" 1080p for a 65" 4k and can't get enough of it. They are well worth it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TransAmTerry

I disagree.. I'm stock internals, see signature for mods .... I'm sure he's heavily modified just from how it sounded and how he walked me. I know how to get the most outta my ride. it's cool though, just makes me want to mod mine even more. He's local so I'm sure I'll run into him again.

---

Sorry man, I wasn't trying to make a dig at ya or anything. I know that mine is slow.:unhappy: With only the GMPP HOTcam and an LS6 intake it's on the lower end, I was just saying sometimes a better driver in a slower car can take the win. :) Though I got a call from TEA today and they finished up my set of 243s on their stage 2 cnc job and are shipping them back to me. Along with that I am installing a new cam to replace the HOTcam. Going from that small 219/228 .525/.525 112 LSA to a medium 230/234 .630/.612 112+2 LSA specced out my Martin. I am shooting for more low & midrange than top end since I don't ever do track days to keep it a good daily. Also updating the lifters to some Johnson 2110R. Now I just need to save up some to replace the rear end since it is still sporting the 3.23 gears from when it was an A4 before I swapped it for a T56. Though, it does get killer gas mileage on the highway right now :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Whamhammer

I am about to prove the TAs versitality, yet again, buy picking up a new 50 inch TV in it.

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My girlfriend bought a big tote the other day and we had my Cobalt SS, pissed me off some LOL.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Whamhammer

Try going in through the hole directly below the front turn signal, I used to it all the time. Check to see if the lens isn't split down the middle, vertically, I put some packing tape on the front of mine, until I use the new set I bought, after I get some body/paint work done, eventually.

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I tried that once. My hand is a bit large for it but it is a possibility.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SMWS6TA

Check for chicken pox and door panel cracks.

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Chicken pox? What is this referring to, a bubbled sail panel?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by SMWS6TA

Next time take a 1/8" drill and drill a hole on the bottom side of the housing. I've done it to them and my rear lights and have yet to have any moisture build up since. It lets the water drain off. On the back lights if the water stands, over time you'll lose your reflective chrome on the inside and the only way to fix it is you either carefully take it apart and rechrome it or get a new light.

---

Interesting ideas.

I had a blinker bulb keep blowing due to the socket burnt issue, and the housings were beat from age/heat. My fix was new Depo housings, and Sylvania Zevo LED 3157 bulbs. Looks great and the amber is nice and bright like I like. I also did a new LED/electronic flasher to accommodate the hyper-flash. I'm all about LED. No heat, and no lag/instant response. And, after being on for a long time, the housings are not at all warm as the LEDs do not put out heat. Here is a video from the swap. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AMJ82gQfYeo

And a photo of the DRLs on. I love the brightness.
http://i695.photobucket.com/albums/v...psrlbktz0x.jpg

I fear the taillamp issue the most. For taillamps, I never let standing water sit. I never drive in the rain or let the car stay wet also. After every car wash I blow compressed air all over to remove water from the moldings, badges, fender/hood grills, door handles, key holes, t-tops, wiper blades, pretty much everywhere. Yes, the car is a crown jewel to me. But I focus on the hatch area with it open and fully blow the water down the spoiler arms, and dry the jams from the roof line to the taillamps. I also spray Adams Quick Detailer while I microfiber dry. Makes everything look great, adds mild additional protection, and garage smells like candy for a day.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Decadence75

Sorry man, I wasn't trying to make a dig at ya or anything. I know that mine is slow.:unhappy: With only the GMPP HOTcam and an LS6 intake it's on the lower end, I was just saying sometimes a better driver in a slower car can take the win. :) Though I got a call from TEA today and they finished up my set of 243s on their stage 2 cnc job and are shipping them back to me. Along with that I am installing a new cam to replace the HOTcam. Going from that small 219/228 .525/.525 112 LSA to a medium 230/234 .630/.612 112+2 LSA specced out my Martin. I am shooting for more low & midrange than top end since I don't ever do track days to keep it a good daily. Also updating the lifters to some Johnson 2110R. Now I just need to save up some to replace the rear end since it is still sporting the 3.23 gears from when it was an A4 before I swapped it for a T56. Though, it does get killer gas mileage on the highway right now :D

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No prob !!. I hear ya on the heads and cam. I suppose that's gonna be my next step/investment eventually. .. then the rear - probably out of necessity !! Then a good dyno tune. I'll have to study up on all that though to get the right set up cause I've never dealt with any of that in the past. All in due time.
What do you project your HP to be once all that work is done ??

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TransAmTerry

No prob !!. I hear ya on the heads and cam. I suppose that's gonna be my next step/investment eventually. .. then the rear - probably out of necessity !! Then a good dyno tune. I'll have to study up on all that though to get the right set up cause I've never dealt with any of that in the past. All in due time.
What do you project your HP to be once all that work is done ??

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Just to pull a number out of my arse, I would estimate around 450-475 to the wheel. It will likely all depend on the tune. Though I don't think I would get those numbers out of the A4 rear end I have in there right now. But once I can replace it I would think somewhere in that range give or take. I don't have any LS tuners local to me so I will have to do what I can with my HPTuners to make it run ok then take it a few hours south to EPS for them to do something proper. I am thinking of swapping over to an SD tune during the process. I will be shooting for a Stange S60 rear with probably 3.90 gears for my rear.

A different rear-end will get less since stronger rear-ends are less efficient.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Decadence75

Just to pull a number out of my arse, I would estimate around 450-475 to the wheel. It will likely all depend on the tune. Though I don't think I would get those numbers out of the A4 rear end I have in there right now. But once I can replace it I would think somewhere in that range give or take. I don't have any LS tuners local to me so I will have to do what I can with my HPTuners to make it run ok then take it a few hours south to EPS for them to do something proper. I am thinking of swapping over to an SD tune during the process. I will be shooting for a Stange S60 rear with probably 3.90 gears for my rear.

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The shop that's done most of my work suggested to me that the most realistic rwhp I would be seeing out of a heads/cam/injector/tb build, with the mods I already have would be about 425, if I wanted to capture the most area "under the curve", and not have to rev the thing crazy (undo give up on good bottom end and midrange torque).

He said I would need to add some displacement, and suggested a stroker.
I figure I want a 4 inch bore to get the most out of flow, and am thinking of doing a bottom end refresh, with a set of Darton 4.03 or so "wet" resleeves.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS

A different rear-end will get less since stronger rear-ends are less efficient.

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True dat. But I would think that 450 wouldn't be out of the ballpark even with an S60.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Whamhammer

The shop that's done most of my work suggested to me that the most realistic rwhp I would be seeing out of a heads/cam/injector/tb build, with the mods I already have would be about 425, if I wanted to capture the most area "under the curve", and not have to rev the thing crazy (undo give up on good bottom end and midrange torque).

He said I would need to add some displacement, and suggested a stroker.
I figure I want a 4 inch bore to get the most out of flow, and am thinking of doing a bottom end refresh, with a set of Darton 4.03 or so "wet" resleeves.

---

There are plenty of stock displacement LS1s out there pushing way more than 425. If you are sticking to stock heads with a very mild cam like the gmpp hotcam I am running now, that would sound about right. However, I am putting on some 243s that have gone through the TEA stage 2 cnc porting along with a good cam that is specced specifically for low to midrange torque.

If you are wanting more displacement I advise on not even wasting your money on work with the LS1. Grab an iron LQ4 or LK9 from the junkyard, bore and stroke it to a 408 and have fun. It will cost less in the long run and you will have a stouter block.

I don't think you're going to be seeing as high of numbers as you're thinking (not 475 anyway). A very LARGE cam with aftermarket heads (such as high-flowing AFR 225's) barely net 450rwhp and that's with a lot of other bolt-on mods. Maybe with a ported throttle body, larger intake like a FAST, etc you "might" squeeze 450-460rwhp. Very doubtful imo. Unless you're planning on running a tune on the ragged edge.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS

I don't think you're going to be seeing as high of numbers as you're thinking (not 475 anyway). A very LARGE cam with aftermarket heads (such as high-flowing AFR 225's) barely net 450rwhp and that's with a lot of other bolt-on mods. Maybe with a ported throttle body, larger intake like a FAST, etc you "might" squeeze 450-460rwhp. Very doubtful imo. Unless you're planning on running a tune on the ragged edge.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

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I really don't have a number goal in mind. As I said, I was pulling numbers outta my butt ;) I would be comfortable with 430-450 which I don't think is out of the realm of possibility. I have a ported TB but only an LS6 intake at the moment. Plan to go to a FAST 102 when I can. The cam going in is 230/234 .630/.612 112+2 for torque so the numbers might be a good bit lower than what I said earlier. But at the end of the day I just want something that is gonna catch and pull for fun rather than racing so a hp number doesn't really matter to me.

You mention AFR as high flow heads though, but the TEA program will flow just as well. And as we know bench flow numbers don't mean a whole lot as they can be tweaked to be nice. All in all, I imagine I will be happy with the results. I sincerely appreciate your input though. I would like to know what else you think about the setup.

Thanks!

It's going to be a great setup that'll make you very happy. I was just making those notes so you don't get disappointed is all. Sounds like you have the right mentality about it all though already, so that's good. Some people get too hyped up over numbers. The important thing, as you mentioned, is that the car runs well and a big part of that is your tuner knowing the setup and how to tune it both effectively, and safely.

As you probably know, I went the FI route, so I never really "dug into" different NA setups in great detail, but I've been on various forums for a very long time and regularly, so I've seen a lot of different combos.

There's a hp/tq thread on here that's been ongoing for probably close to 10 years if you can find it. It has people's setups and their results. Good info to get an idea. But, like I said, and you said, just make sure the car runs healthy.

The only real suggestion I have is to ensure the car will be capable of efficiently planting that new found power to the ground. I went the opposite route of most people in the car scene. I did the following in the order I have it noted:

1. Cat-back exhaust
2. Sub-frame connectors
3. Lower control arms
4. Torque arm
5. Pan hard bar
6. Headers
7. Built T56
8. Aftermarket clutch
9. Rear end
10. Drag radials
11. Lowering springs
12. Shocks
13. Procharger with lots of amenities.

So, power was the very last thing I added. There's a lot of other stuff outside of what I have listed that was also added, but that's basically it in a nutshell.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DarrenWS6

Chicken pox? What is this referring to, a bubbled sail panel?

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Yes.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Decadence75

Just to pull a number out of my arse, I would estimate around 450-475 to the wheel. It will likely all depend on the tune. Though I don't think I would get those numbers out of the A4 rear end I have in there right now. But once I can replace it I would think somewhere in that range give or take. I don't have any LS tuners local to me so I will have to do what I can with my HPTuners to make it run ok then take it a few hours south to EPS for them to do something proper. I am thinking of swapping over to an SD tune during the process. I will be shooting for a Stange S60 rear with probably 3.90 gears for my rear.

---

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS

A different rear-end will get less since stronger rear-ends are less efficient.

---

:true:




With my 403 I'm at 450 to the wheels, mainly because of my heads and need of a cam that is designed for strokers. Only way to get a stock LS1 to mid 400's is aftermarket, intake, heads and Cam with a serious tune as well as a baby shot of nitrous.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Decadence75

Just to pull a number out of my arse, I would estimate around 450-475 to the wheel. It will likely all depend on the tune. Though I don't think I would get those numbers out of the A4 rear end I have in there right now. But once I can replace it I would think somewhere in that range give or take. I don't have any LS tuners local to me so I will have to do what I can with my HPTuners to make it run ok then take it a few hours south to EPS for them to do something proper. I am thinking of swapping over to an SD tune during the process. I will be shooting for a Stange S60 rear with probably 3.90 gears for my rear.

---

Geoff (EPS) has done mine as well as my buddies 383 stroker. He is an awesome guy, was the brain of Thunder Racing before he lost it in a divorce. When I was having tuning issues he helped me find the cause. If I'm willing to travel 3.5 hrs to go to him, you're closer so.....

I'll be going to him always for tuning.

He also did my SD tuning. Before you go that route see what you Pressure Altitude (PA) is on average throughout the year. If you're not close to sea level a SD Tune might not benefit you. Well what I mean is that there will be times that having a SD Tune will work against you like when you have big changes in PA or high altitudes.

Mine is SD tune and I'm at sea level all year.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS

It's going to be a great setup that'll make you very happy. I was just making those notes so you don't get disappointed is all. Sounds like you have the right mentality about it all though already, so that's good. Some people get too hyped up over numbers. The important thing, as you mentioned, is that the car runs well and a big part of that is your tuner knowing the setup and how to tune it both effectively, and safely.

As you probably know, I went the FI route, so I never really "dug into" different NA setups in great detail, but I've been on various forums for a very long time and regularly, so I've seen a lot of different combos.

There's a hp/tq thread on here that's been ongoing for probably close to 10 years if you can find it. It has people's setups and their results. Good info to get an idea. But, like I said, and you said, just make sure the car runs healthy.

The only real suggestion I have is to ensure the car will be capable of efficiently planting that new found power to the ground. I went the opposite route of most people in the car scene. I did the following in the order I have it noted:

1. Cat-back exhaust
2. Sub-frame connectors
3. Lower control arms
4. Torque arm
5. Pan hard bar
6. Headers
7. Built T56
8. Aftermarket clutch
9. Rear end
10. Drag radials
11. Lowering springs
12. Shocks
13. Procharger with lots of amenities.

So, power was the very last thing I added. There's a lot of other stuff outside of what I have listed that was also added, but that's basically it in a nutshell.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

---

Thanks for the input! I tend to go about it in a haphazzard way with no real plan to start with.

I went catback to start, wasn't happy with it then went true duals.
Then went lid & ls6 intake.
Then hotcam, LS6 springs, hardened pushrods and ported oil pump
Then adjustable panhard
Then adjustable torque arm
Then adjustable LCA with relocation brackets
Then an SS4000 stall in the auto
Then installed a guage pod with the larger A4 pan tapped for a sender
Then decided I didn't want an auto and swapped to a T56
Now I am swapping cams again to something better with much better heads since I am still on the factory 853s

Projects I still have yet to do but have had the parts piled up in a room are drilled & slotted rotors, caliper rebuilds, Strano springs, Koni STR.T shocks, carbon fiber sail panel. Probably going to remove the pillar pods since I was using that to keep an eye in the A4.

I want to so Subframe connectors though. Ben back and forth for years on the bolt in vs welded.

Plus I have a ton of audio stuff to go in, ala speaker box in the back ect.

So much to do, so little time. But the power comes first, haha. Plus I need to get a new rear to take all this new power. My only saving grace is that I am still running the old A4 3.23 gears which has saved me from breaking the factory 10 bolt as it is.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SMWS6TA

Geoff (EPS) has done mine as well as my buddies 383 stroker. He is an awesome guy, was the brain of Thunder Racing before he lost it in a divorce. When I was having tuning issues he helped me find the cause. If I'm willing to travel 3.5 hrs to go to him, you're closer so.....

I'll be going to him always for tuning.

He also did my SD tuning. Before you go that route see what you Pressure Altitude (PA) is on average throughout the year. If you're not close to sea level a SD Tune might not benefit you. Well what I mean is that there will be times that having a SD Tune will work against you like when you have big changes in PA or high altitudes.

Mine is SD tune and I'm at sea level all year.

---

Geoff was who I had in mind to do my tune as well. Do you have to dop the car off and come back to get it or is it something where I can bring it to him, spend the day in new orleans and the pick it up later?

I am in Jackson, so I don't expect my DA will be much different from yours.

My pinion seal was leaking on my 10-bolt with only 10k miles on my car with stock power and my car is a garage queen. Was a very minor leak, but still a leak. I went with a Moser 9" and never looked back. In hindsight, I would like to now have a higher gear such as a 3.50 or maybe higher instead of the 4.11 I have. 1st gear with the Procharger is done in a blink of an eye. 2nd isn't much better lol. Sure makes it a lot of fun though.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

He makes you an appointment, and when you show up, you're it, no one else. He likes you to show around 9:30-10 am. I suggest bring it on a trailer, otherwise it will need to cool off for him to start. He'll ask you what mods you've done and will try to build a baseline tune prior to you getting there. If all goes well you could be in and out under 3 hrs. He tries to get you done right and will take the time it needs to get it right.


You can also drop it off but he has very limited space so I'm not sure on how long he'll store it, check with him though.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS

My pinion seal was leaking on my 10-bolt with only 10k miles on my car with stock power and my car is a garage queen. Was a very minor leak, but still a leak. I went with a Moser 9" and never looked back. In hindsight, I would like to now have a higher gear such as a 3.50 or maybe higher instead of the 4.11 I have. 1st gear with the Procharger is done in a blink of an eye. 2nd isn't much better lol. Sure makes it a lot of fun though.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

---

I did maintenance and changed fluid in the rear a few years ago. No leaks. I am more concerned with breaking it, haha.

When I do swap to a better rear I plan on going with a 3.90 gear. I think that would be a good compromise from full on raceing 4.10/4.11 to the stock 3.42. I can imagine that first is gone in a blink with the procharger setup especially.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SMWS6TA

He makes you an appointment, and when you show up, you're it, no one else. He likes you to show around 9:30-10 am. I suggest bring it on a trailer, otherwise it will need to cool off for him to start. He'll ask you what mods you've done and will try to build a baseline tune prior to you getting there. If all goes well you could be in and out under 3 hrs. He tries to get you done right and will take the time it needs to get it right.


You can also drop it off but he has very limited space so I'm not sure on how long he'll store it, check with him though.

---

That's great to hear. I planned on trailering it down there, I just didn't know if I would have to leave it and make another trip down to pick it up or what. Glad to know I can go down there and back with a tuned car in the same day.

With 4.11 gears 1st goes quick in a 403ci motor too....

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Decadence75

True dat. But I would think that 450 wouldn't be out of the ballpark even with an S60.



There are plenty of stock displacement LS1s out there pushing way more than 425. If you are sticking to stock heads with a very mild cam like the gmpp hotcam I am running now, that would sound about right. However, I am putting on some 243s that have gone through the TEA stage 2 cnc porting along with a good cam that is specced specifically for low to midrange torque.

If you are wanting more displacement I advise on not even wasting your money on work with the LS1. Grab an iron LQ4 or LK9 from the junkyard, bore and stroke it to a 408 and have fun. It will cost less in the long run and you will have a stouter block.

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The reason I would resleeve is that:

A) save front end ( and total ) weight with an aluminum block, yes I also am planning on a tubular k member
B) not have to go through a bunch of refitting with an LS2-3 block (to continue saving weight)
C) by the time I buy, and do whatever I have to do to an iron block (repeat after me: "crapshoot"), it'd be pretty close to what a resleeve and new pistons would be anyways
D) I am not interested in a stroker, the stroke on the engine is fine enough.
E) If I wanted mega-power/mega cubes, I would just get an LS7 bare block, I just want the most power I can get under the curve, and maximum drivability (by unshrouding the valves). There's no real threat of me building enough power to worry about needing an iron block.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS

My pinion seal was leaking on my 10-bolt with only 10k miles on my car with stock power and my car is a garage queen. Was a very minor leak, but still a leak. I went with a Moser 9" and never looked back. In hindsight, I would like to now have a higher gear such as a 3.50 or maybe higher instead of the 4.11 I have. 1st gear with the Procharger is done in a blink of an eye. 2nd isn't much better lol. Sure makes it a lot of fun though.

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Just for the record, the factory inspected all ten bolts and rejected any units that DIDN'T have a leaking pinion seal.

Yep, the block on the LS1 is plenty stout. So is the crank. Nobody in this thread is pushing enough power to come even remotely close to damaging either. Plenty of people out there pushing 800+ on LS1's, and safely. You just need to forge the pistons and connecting rods and slap a turbo or supercharger on....with all the other necessities of course.

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