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Lol yup it's sitting next to me in my office in pieces. Sarah has been bitching at me to get it back together since she hasnt been able to ride with me when i drive it.
Started recovering it and had some issues. Had to send some stuff out to get fixed got it all back. Leather is back on but it sat so long disassembled that I forgot how one of the brackets go back on. Just haven't gotten around to looking it up since I can't find it anywhere in the repair manuals.
That's 1 of the problems of ordering parts AFTER disassembly happens. When it takes several months to get back to said project, some things begin to look very unfamiliar. I took apart my 87 GN door to install new weather strips about 2 months ago, and now getting ready to start the re-installing process. Most of the time its pretty straight forward, but once in awhile I find a part that isn't as easy to figure out. So far so good though.
Hell, some of the cars I take apart stay in pieces for years at a time. :chuckles:
My car has been apart for 4 months now. Don't really even care anymore.
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:lmao: vehicles apart for months..... :lol:
Try for 3 yrs. But seriously, as long as you tag, bag and make detailed notes & take pictures, keep all related parts in the same container/location you should be fine. After having my car apart for almost 3 yrs, several engine pulls to my amazement I still had all the parts and bolts.
Attachment 26671Jay Leno said all sports cars should have a white-ball Hurst shifter-ball.... so I better unpack the one i ordered and muscle the very nice 30th Ann. factory leather "H" one off my stick.
p.s. that pic is one I saw on Show usyour Birds thread.... not mine as I have white seats and haven't put the ball on yet. :-)
Not done yet...but got the front bird license plate insert coming finally. Will need paint, but hated that indented portion
Had mine out today and got her in the air for a long awaited oil change.
After reading up on it there were many differing thoughts on amount but
i opted for 5 1/2 quarts. Seems ok.... No leaks and the motor has not seized
up so all good!
I put two replacement Falkens on the front also and the handling is soooo much better.
The Yokohama which came off were ten years old! Yeah..... i know!!
:)
5-1/2 qts. is what I always go with. I need tires for our car - the Falkens currently on it wore out the centers bad no matter what I did with air pressure. A neighbor runs identical tires on his Corvette and has the same issue. :dunno:
My oil changes are becoming expensive I now need 8 quarts of oil lol
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That's what you get for installing a diesel in that thing!
😂😂😂
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I'm running 6 quarts in mine (still 346 ci).
Gave it a rinse less wash and went to start it up..... and dead battery. Had to drive the daily. Guess I need to drive it more. Oh well maybe jump it and get it going after the football game tomorrow.
Put the bird onhttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...afa2336176.jpg
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Last night got the front plate insert on, deleted the AIR system, new plugs and wires, changed the oil.
Today i paid for my Frost tune
Serious bath, oil change and possible plug change this weekend on the bird. Gotta see how they've held up since the tune in Apr. I've also gotta replace my sons front calibers on his Grand Prix GT.
Adjusted my headlight coverhttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...e2273b79b2.jpg
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Added a couple washers to the AIR blockoff plates. With stock bolts the driver side was not tight enough for a full seal
Spark plug change was definitely needed. #7 plug was cracked. My mpg came back. Which is kinda funny with a 403ci going thru a 8.8 w/4.10 gears.
Also :woot: no debris in the oil, this was a 20k mile oil change after rebuild. It's still clean..... :woot:
Next oil change I'll switch over to synthetic.
Walked outside and looked at it while daydreamin how to improve the small maintenance issues. At times I'm having an idle issue that comes and goes. At times upon cranking it rises to around 2500 rpm before dropping to allow me to go in gear.
Gents, as you have tajen apart the dashes, on my '99 ws6 stick, where does a/c & heat vent into floor area EXACTLY? Want to spray some Lysol as moldy smell from using Max AC & floor heat. When on Max AC, WHERE is system inhaling the cabin air from? I felt up under glove box.... .... is it just right and above tranny tunnel? Smaller opening than i thought? That grill on topof dash is ONLY exhaust, defrost , right? Never sucks cabin air IN, does it?
Sorry for amateur q's but i confused???
Dropped in ECM w Frost tune, put the front plate insert on w a touch up painted bird until I get hood n all gets painted, did the rear Pontiac lettering vinyl filling but they forgot the I, and did some touchup paint around car before winter to seal up a couple chips.
HAD tune up with ngk tr5's, injector service done yesterday. need to bring car back to shop tho. slight delay when starting out, seems to be running rough, engine service light came on within ten miles. acceleration is worse than with old plugs.
check that the wires are seated at both the coil and plug, at times they are a PITA to get on.
Just hope they didn't crack a plug.
will do. this was the problem i had with last tune some 98k miles ago. surprisingly they said there was no oil fouling on the plugs!
Due to pending weather this weekend I finished up the season with a good bath and put her away until Spring. I always hate this time of the year! http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/a...psm4snbh1w.jpg
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Had to get a new remote for the car, the old ones case insides speedster from the. Awe, and wouldn't work, and opening the car with they key every time would be annoying with the alarm going off everytime. Just let the dealer do it cause I didn't feel like messing with it and I was there anyways to buy the part.
Getting the oil changed today, would've just had the dealer do it but didn't bring the synthetic oil and filter with me.
I remember having a similar problem to yours after my LTs were installed, car would go rough when changing from light load to a little bit more than light acceleration. Found out #3 plug had a crack in the ceramics.Quote:
Originally Posted by DADCRUISER
went out and cranked it, running great but can't drive it needs a repair or replace rear-end having to save up, put cover back on it. the end for now!
:woot2::woot2:Early Christmas present ordered today.
New complete carpet from Yearone.
Noticed DR headlight is out so thinking to buy the LMC ones. Seems to best bang for the buck with replaceable bulbs.
I've done the swap over to HID bulbs using LMC housings. I've made a how to thread if you need some assistance on what to buy and how to install.
I have 5 or 6 HID set-ups in the garage actually. I think 2 or 3 are 9006 and one 9005 and then some H1s from another project. I think all I really need are the housing. My truck has projectors that do not play well with HID so i wasted some money, but now it might get some use.
Just wish i could find a free shipping thing cause for some reason paying the $13.65 shipping just bugs me. (I think I am spoiled by Prime free shipping) Still seems to be the best deal going though and I think I like them better than Hawks housings that are basically same price.
As far as my research has gone it seems the housing are plug n play and the HID addition is just like any other.
I am looking at these though as well to upgrade the fogs to match better...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...A2L77EE7U53NWQ
from a simple dead headlight to a $125 spent...damn
Yeah it snowballed on me as well.
I have no regrets though. I can see much better and most times I don't even need to turn my high beams on .
I have read that some ppl complain about HID in fog. That they don't penetrate far enough. I'll see when we start getting fog in the winter/spring.
I also notice one more extra bonus with the HID's.
Any reflector material within range shines like a beacon. I mean literally any like say some that might be on particular city/county/state vehicles with Blue lights that might be hiding on the side of the road. :cool2:
I have ran HID on my truck since 09. It is more the color temp causing the reflection than HID. I swapped to LED on it with current setup and it is crazy how they make reflective signs glow, esp with the roof bar. Far past its usable light will still leave signs glowing.
The fog is the same thing the lower 3000-yellow to stock 4300 is less reflective to the fog and penetrates better.
I am thinking to go with the LED replacement fogs for the price and I have similar on truck...not to be used around traffic, but badass on backroads. Then do the LMC lows with a 5000K HID since over that decreases usable light. Also, I will likely just forget changing highs for now and leave the Sylvania stock replacements in there since I dont think they will be needed anyway and I hate to drop another 70 plus the cost of some LED since HID highs kinda suck with warm up time.
What color temp did you go with?
I'm using 8000k
I have found most LED seem to be in that 6-8 range. I do like the more blue look to em. The good thing is once you have the HID setup it is dirt cheap for a pair of bulbs to swap in and change color temps.
We just avoid driving our car after dark... cheapest fix ever!
I wish I could but its 65 miles in the dark to work and 65 in the dark home this time of year.
Looking at some more threads and i think this will be quite an improvement.
Don't mind Jeff he got Lawyer money.....
And lawyer bills... :(Quote:
Originally Posted by SMWS6TA
Calculated my MPG since my Frost Mail In tune and was disappointed to see it drop. Also been debating if the partial throttle 1-2 shift hard enough to kick on TC is a good thing. May be sending it back for some changes.
That's one thing I've never done in the 15 years I've had mine; calculate MPG.
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I calculate mpg in everything I own. Easy way to know if everything is working optimally.
For the Camaro, I simply look at the fuel pressure gauge and wideband and can just tell when I'm driving it if something isn't right. If I were to calculate it though, I'd guess I'm somewhere between 5 mpg at WOT to 27 mpg at cruising speed in 6th on the highway lol.
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I don't have real gauges in this one yet so it's an easy thing to do. GM dummy gauges just don't tell enough truth.
Yeah, I never trusted the OEM gauges much, especially the temp gauge.
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I am debating ultragauge or ScanGauge like my truck for basic monitoring. Something that can read n clear codes and give me real engine n Trans temps plus other data
Our car came with a Hypertech unit that I mounted to the passenger side cup holder. It simply plugs into the OBDII port and allows me to have custom gauge readouts on pretty much all engine functions, with the exception of fuel pressure and transmission temperature. I presume that the ScanGuafe you mentioned operates in a similar fashion?Quote:
Originally Posted by hardtrailz
Yes. I found those are two w the most reasonable price and trans temp.
Since she's been reborn with the 403, 8.8 rear with 4.11 gears my mpg is a dream. I get about 13-15 mpg on hwy and city....well I won't cry about it.Quote:
Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS
She's a thirsty bitch but I also have a heavy foot.
My aftermarket gauges are fuel pressure, wide band & oil temp. Between them & having true gauges (98' FTW) I'm able to monitor everything.
My afr is avg 14.5
I'm so thankful for my gauges: if I'd had the dummy gauges, I would never have known about the problem with my thermostat being stuck open (unless there is some kind of light on the newer cars for such issues?)
I went from 24ish mpg to just under 22...10% loss. Going to swap back to stock ECM and see if i get the MPG back or if it is something else going on. Frost did offer to adjust the shifting since it is so strong if I paid the ride there n back. He also thinks the trans may have had something done to it since he said there is no way just a tune with my gearing should break the tires n kick in TCS.
I did get my LMC low beams in the mail and hoping tonight or tomorrow to install.
is there a pic or diagram of where the air intake or vents are under the dash? I just want to squirt LYSOL in right spot and not fry something electric with liquid... :-)
Quote:
Originally Posted by BobbyGFirebird
And you have had the same exact driving habits? Waiting at stop lights, same take-off from a stop, warming the car up the same, same hwy/city miles, etc? Seems like a lot of variables to be accounted for, but if the difference has been steady then I see where you are coming from. Does the car drive any different? Hesitate? Shifting at higher RPM?Quote:
Originally Posted by hardtrailz
I drive the same 135 mile route daily and have driven the same other than letting off throttle to lessen the 1-2 shift. I also did calculations over a half dozen tankfuls. I thought initially it would be the ecm sorting itself out but over 1500 miles it has been consistently lower.
Oh.. drives good. The 1-2 partial throttle shift is a head jerker. I have been watching the rpm at interstate speeds and am seeing a couple hundred rpm variation at times making me wonder about lockup.
Not really complaining just really did not expect and can't afford a 10% drop in fuel economy since it's mostly just a commuter right now.
It could be that your trans has been modded. I remember when I installed the Performabuilt in our car with the Frost tune already in place. It was awful. Steve knocked the line pressure settings back to stockish and all was immediately well.Quote:
Originally Posted by hardtrailz
I put the Trans Am and its other four wheel brethren to bed last weekend. Aired up all the tires, added Sta-bil to the tank and then ran each car for a bit. They are packed in like sardines and the batteries are removed and at the house for rotation on the Battery Tender. Looks like I have two more cars coming to nap in our building. Whenever you are ready, Darren.
Thanks for reminding me mine has been to bed for several weeks and I forgot the battery tender pretty sure my battery is on its way out anyway. My Dad also just announced that he has my sisters Christmas present in his camper that is now blocked by my TA so I guess I'm going to have to move it out soon....
My car hasn't been started since June. Maybe I should just sell it.
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Still on stands?
:(
:nono:Quote:
Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS
Yea. Lost motivation after waiting a month for parts to show up. Doubt I'll remember how to put it back together now.Quote:
Originally Posted by Naaman
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Come on now, you're already committed. If you give up now, and sell it, you'll be pissed in the spring when you want to be having fun with it again.Quote:
Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS
Never give up, NEVER surrender!!!
Also remember Jon, There are plenty of folks on here that know these cars better then the employee's at GM. If "you tube" doesn't have the answers you seek, I'am sure plenty of your peeps here on the boards will know the answer.
Just forward all of your supercharger parts to me, I'll figure it out :DQuote:
Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS
I got the IcePro snow tires on the stock wheels, but not on the car unfortunately before the snow hit...
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That's one thing I'll never do is drive in the snow in my bird. Not that I can't but more like that others can't drive in the snow, hell most have trouble on dry, sunny days let alone wet, icy roads.
My last one was driven year round and did surprisingly well. The one outing in snow with the regular tires leads me to believe this snow tire n bird will do really well.
I dont worry about others driving. I have insurance and hopefully they do as well. I drive far too much to worry about others in any conditions. When driving 30-40K miles a year there is a chance of shit happening anytime.
Really though, I am more worried about summer and dump trucks dropping sand/gravel and bouncing into the car since they will never own up n fix that damage when it happens. I am sick of replacing windshields and touching up paint chips
Ah, that's just a dusting anyway.
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Definitely a dusting. I wont use it to push snow, but a few inches will be ok under it i think.
I do have the toy if I have to use it, but it only gets about 15 mpg and doubles my cost to go to work.
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Wish I could say the same. Once I get a house with a garage, a daily driver will handle the crappy days.Quote:
Originally Posted by SMWS6TA
Right now, I have a town home, and not enough parking.
215 60 16 was as skinny as i thought I could do on the stockers. Saw that some said a 205 would work, but seemed too stretched to me.
I couldn't agree more. Snow is why I bought my 4 wheel drive Silverado.
I drove a 1996 Camaro through 12 winters in Indiana. Never wrecked it or got stuck once.
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Something almost as good as a 4x4 is a laptop, and the ability to work from home :)Quote:
Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS
My office is my house.
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I owned a '74, '79, '86, and a '91 Firebird which I drove year round because I could always get another one, now that I have the last production year of the Firebird (2002 Firebird Formula) I only drive it during the summer. Because of the salt and other stuff they put on the road during the winter.
I would never drive my SS in the rain, let alone the snow lol.
BTW - the jack has been under the frame of the car holding it up since July. Do you think that's a problem keeping it like that?
I don't think having jack stands under the frame of a car but I would put the jack stands under the axles if I was going to leave it that way for months.
I have an actual jack under the car, no jack stands.
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I would use jack stands instead of just a regular jack, mostly because it will be safer.
I understand, I had jack stands under it also when I was working on it. I think I'll just go ahead and lower the car onto its wheels anyhow as I likely won't be working on it until spring when it warms up. No heat in the garage.
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I don't like the ideal of the tires hanging from the shocks so thats why I rarely have the car on stands for any long time.
Got the new snow tire, and the three other snows put on the car today, tomorrow I drop it of at the speed shop for installation of some spinning tubular upper and lower front control arms and the extreme oh low mileage springs I bought from someone here.
That's my Christmas present to myself, and maintenance of the car.
Hey Jon. Long time no talk to. Mine was on my jack stands for a year and a half while I did my build. I never noticed anything after that.Quote:
Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS
Having the car raised up in the air on jack stands wont hurt anything. I would definitely NOT leave a regular hydraulic jack under for any length of time. You are solely relining on the seals of the jack to keep the car up in the air. The jack isn't really designed to keep the car in the air, its just made to get it in the air where the trusty jack stand will take over afterwards. When I blew up my tranny, my car was in the air on jack stands for about 8 months. No issues with the suspension once I got it back on the ground and driving again though.
Great. Thanks guys.
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My car has been slightly snowed on 1 time in my ownership. I recently backed it in my garage on a cold night to put it out of my working way and it touched some snow, but other than that not driven under bad conditions. Been rained on 3 or 4 times, and been left out overnight 3 times ( all in 2yrs time ). I do try to keep it contained well. My 4wd F-150 I also don't intend to use for winter as I don't want salt eating its frame either like my last truck. That, and I like the truck a lot :lol:.
As it sits now on the battery tender.
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With the other toys. I love having the fourwheeler to clear the snow out with.
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The night I moved it on my own I successfully managed to scar it. Still pissed off.
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I daily drive a slightly modded '05 Cobalt SS. Fun, fast, good looking daily. Very willing to sacrifice it to winter conditions and never intend to have it forever. Let it rust :lol:. I just spent $800 ( 225/40-18 ) to get Nokian snow tires put on it and glad I did. Summer tires were worn out and it slid everywhere. Now it is planted. Hopefully next spring i'll get a fancy set of wheels with some good summer rubbers on.
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I've really slacked. I guess I got used to last year not having snow or salt until January :lol:. One of these days if no more salt gets laid out i'll try to maneuver it over. If not i'll rent a trailer and bring it by as a last resort.Quote:
Originally Posted by pajeff02
Took the WS6, and my daughter, to pick my bud up for lunch, who works at the last dealership I worked at before going back to college, and a better career. He last saw it when it was bone stock, after lunch, he told me how "bad assed" the car sounded now!
I actually went out to the garage the other day to do something and went over to look at her crippled self. To my surprise, I had already removed the jack from under the car and it is sitting on jack stands on each side. Certainly don't recall that. Now I know for sure I am not going to remember how to hook the supercharger back up LOL
It's an age thing, Jon!Quote:
Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS
drove my 30th Ann. Trans Am 1 foot forward in garage and then had fun beginning INSTALL of custom blue piped WetOkole.com neoprene seat covers with T/Am logos. Then drove it 1 foot backward. :-)
I just realized I can get my seatback upper covers on without taking off headrest, BUT..... HOW do we remove head rests on top of front seats??? I didn't want break them and I didn't see any hole to insert a pin or awl? Do they just pull up and out with force; or is there a lever/button in hedrest or on female hole area? No longer urgent, but now curious. I saw on some old other blogs that whole seat back must be dismantled? :-)
Yeah the back of the seat has to be removed. There's a set of clips inside the seat holding the headrest in.
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75sqft of Fatmat Heat & Sound Deadner for the bird....
On the Snow topic only time my Bird seen snow was in fall of 2015 when we were preparing for a track day at the Beaver, was driving it to a friends to load it in a enclosed trailer had the drag radials on and it was coming down...hahaha.... Then the next day just after running my fastest ever pass I was lined up in the staging lanes and it left loose again......Jeff , My friends and myself were rushing to get them loaded as the giant snow flakes covered everything very quickly but didn't last long.....
